Your opinions on this Router Table Please

[Rob Holcomb]

I plan on adding a Router table to my shop and have debated back and forth whether to build my own or buy one. I've decided I'm going to buy one with the deciding factor being that I just don't have enough time to build one right now. I've looked at a lot of different tables and came across this today. http://routertableadroni.com/RS500RouterTable.html They can also be found on Ebay - eBay#190647999188 for $299 and eBay#190647999526 for $349
Please tell me what you like about it and what you don't. Thank you for your thoughts!

[frank shic]

looks like norm's design. you won't be disappointed if you go this route.

[Jeff O'Brien]

Looks pretty nice, although I'd be concerned with that lexan plate sagging over time...I'd look for a metal plate or maybe a lift that will fit there.

Jeff

[Ray Newman]

The table is 35" high. Is that a good height for you; or, is it too high or too low?

If it does not fit you, it will be inconvenient to work with.

Another thought: price plus S/H is between $300.00 and $400.00, depending upon where you buy. To me that seems to be expensive. Will your use of it justify the cost? Could you get buy with something smaller and maybe cheaper -- like Oak Park --for now and when you have the time, experience, etc., to build a router tableand cabinet that you customize to fit your "needs"? For Oak Park, see: http://www.op.woodgrainonline.com/table/indexus.html

I bought an Oak Park table and fence in the late 1980's/early 1990's and it served me well. Even though ta few years ago I purchased a larger table for a shop-fabricated cabinet, I still utilize the Oak Park router tabel and fence system..

[Paul Wunder]

http://www.rt1000.com/

Have you seen this one? Also a Norm type. Looks good.These guys have been around for a number of years

[glenn bradley]

I'm sure plenty of folks will tell you to just build one. I mean, we are woodworkers, right? That being said, I have bought items I could have built when I was in a time crunch or I happened to have more money than time. The price seems fair and the design is a proven one that many here have followed a-la Norm A. Rockler has their high-pressure laminate top with fence (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21291&site=ROCKLER), plate and guard on sale for about $160 right now. That, a dust port and $50 worth of plywood could get you a nice table that could be customized to any specific needs you might have as to height, width, lower dust port location, casters or not and so forth.

I prefer a safety switch that I can hit with my leg so their included switch and location don't do much for me. Some people don't even care for a router table however, I find it indispensable. There are so many different shop requirements and ways of using them that it is hard for anyone to answer for anyone else as to whether a specific model will work well for them or not. Consider your space, desired height, total cost of getting the table to you and ready for operation and then weigh that against other options. Good luck and most of all, have fun.

P.s. I guess I should add that I find it more reliable to select your router/plate or router/lift combination and then find or build the table that will support these to your liking.

[Rob Holcomb]

Thanks for the opinions so far!

Jeff, I'm concerned about the lexan plate also. I will be buying a lift for it and although I have 4 routers, none of them have enough HP to use as a dedicated router in a table so I would buy one of those also.

Ray, 35" high is a little low for my liking but I will be adding casters and that will raise the table a couple inches which would be better. I tried opeining the link you provided and it closed my browser. So I tried in a deifferent browser. Same thing happened. Not sure what's going on with that.

Paul, I looked at the rt1000. It looks very similar to the rs-500 I don't really care for the fence on the rt1000 though. It looks like the split fence uses bare mdf on its face but the rs-500 has a laminate face. I'm assuming mdf with laminate.

Glenn, Although I looked at the Rockler table and it has very good reviews, I just don't have the time to do the build of a cabinet at the moment so that option isn't a possibility right now.

[Bill McDermott]

Two comments:

1) In my opinion, excellent dust collection is a priority issue on a router table. I would need a 4" connection for dust. Maybe 2 1/2" is good for you.

2) Plan to put in a lift from Day One. I'm not a gizmo type of woodworker, but having added one recently, I now consider it standard feature of a router table.

This table is going to be a great addition to your shop. Enjoy!

[Myk Rian]

The table is 35" high. Is that a good height for you; or, is it too high or too low?

If it does not fit you, it will be inconvenient to work with.
That's about table saw and work bench height.


like Oak Park --for now and when you have the time, experience, etc., to build a router tableand cabinet that you customize to fit your "needs"? For Oak Park, see: http://www.op.woodgrainonline.com/table/indexus.html
The problem with the Oak Park table, the insert is a strange size. Proprietary to the table. You can't buy an insert just anywhere, but you could make one.
A 9x12" insert is available everywhere, so a table made for that size is preferable. Besides, Oak Park is selling out their stocks, getting ready to close, (as I understand it).

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, Although I looked at the Rockler table and it has very good reviews, I just don't have the time to do the build of a cabinet at the moment so that option isn't a possibility right now.

No crime there. I bought my mitersaw stand for the same reason :). It is good that you are planning on a lift from the start. I had to modify a couple of tables when I got lifts. Easy enough but, planning would have been better :o. The table you are looking at takes a Woodpecker lift in its many cousins right off the bat. I have a couple PRL's and am still impressed every time I use them. It will be easy enough to open up that dust port. I have a 4" below and a 2-1/2" at the fence and plan to open the lower to a 6" as I want still more airflow.

[joe barbosa]

Two comments:

1) In my opinion, excellent dust collection is a priority issue on a router table. I would need a 4" connection for dust. Maybe 2 1/2" is good for you.

2) Plan to put in a lift from Day One. I'm not a gizmo type of woodworker, but having added one recently, I now consider it standard feature of a router table.

This table is going to be a great addition to your shop. Enjoy!

You can't beat the dust collection on the RT1000XL check out the video on Utube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoD8bbzDId8&feature=context&context=C3109ea2ADOEgsToPDskLfsUTNwLSClxMVo1yT6F1Q (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoD8bbzDId8&feature=context&context=C3109ea2ADOEgsToPDskLfsUTNwLSClxMVo1yT6F1Q )

The lexan plates aren't bad, I also use 5 different routers but can't afford to buy 5 router lifts. So I have a Dewalt attached to a lexan plate set up with a 3/8 round over bit set up and locked in place. Another is a bosch with a 45 chamfer set up and locked in place. I use those 2 bits every day instead of changing bits. I lift the router out and drop one in place and I am ready to go. it takes me less then 30 sec. to change a router. Try to change a bit in 30 sec. The router I use for larger bits is mounted on a Aluminium plate .

[Randy Rose]

http://www.rt1000.com/

Have you seen this one? Also a Norm type. Looks good.These guys have been around for a number of years


I have the RT1000 and like it, however the plate & top do sag with a heavy router.
Built a new fence, reinforcing the top is next.