Best TS Throat Plate????

[Carroll Courtney]

Guys awhile back there was a post on Unisaw throat plates and I can't find it.Who sells those throat plates that has apiece of wood that runs down the middle for zero clearance and is it one of the better throat plates?I'm just about finish restoring my Unisaw and would like to have a nice throat plate to top it off,thanks for any ideals-----Carroll

[Chris Hedges]

Lee Valley. They look pretty darn slick!

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=55985&cat=1,41080,51225

Chris

[Bruce Darrow]

Carroll,

If you can find one, Wood Dynamics makes (made?) a great one. The big advantage, in my view, is that replacement or additional inserts are easily shop made.

[Bruce Page]

Check out these: https://charlesneilwoodworking.3dcartstores.com/Table-Saw-Accessories_c_10.html

[Tom Cullom JR.]

I have the leevally one and really like it. I would recommend it to anyone.

[Alan Schaffter]

Looks like Neil is making the Wood Dynamics insert. Lee Schierer and some other folks made their own- using woodworking machines to mill the aluminum- a bit scarey but it can be done. A metal working mill is a much better choice.

[Jim O'Dell]

Infinity has the Tru-Cut system seen here: http://www.infinitytools.com/Tru-Cut-Table-Saw-Insert-System/products/1400/ It looks nice. Wish they had one for my G0691!! Jim.

[Van Huskey]

The ones LV and Infinity seel are both the Betterley. I have not seen one like this for the PM2000, if anyone has I would love to see it!

[scott spencer]

The Betterly is good, but phenolic is a heck of a bang for the buck too. Leecraft has the corner on the phenolic market.

[Joe Spear]

The Tru-Cut is great. I make replacement inserts out of 1/4" plywood scraps, so they're very cheap. I was lucky enough to get one for $20 a few years ago when a local Rockler store was clearing them out and had one to fit my Jet.

[Matt Meiser]

The Charles Neil one is really nice looking but doesn't have a slot for a splitter which is a deal breaker for me.

I've tried some UHMW ones from Peachtree but they tend to melt plastic on the sides of the blade. It cleans off easy enough, but the phenolic doesn't do that. I've always just used the Lee Craft ones.

There's also some nice looking ones for Delta saws made from MDF on eBay for about $7 each. Already clearanced on the back side for the blade and with adjustment screws. Hard to make them for that price!

[Ole Anderson]

Mine looks like the charlesneilwoodworking version, but I don't recall paying anywhere near $100 for it years ago. I use 1/4" masonite for the inserts, and a 1/8" piece of masonite glued in for the splitter. I have since added several 1/2" holes for dust collection, not sure it made much difference.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/CJ7ole/IMG_0104.jpg

[Bruce Page]

The Charles Neil one is really nice looking but doesn't have a slot for a splitter which is a deal breaker for me.


That's a good point. When I made mine I milled a slot for my Bies drop-in splitter. You could add the slot using a band saw.

[frank shic]

anyone have any ideas how i'd cut a small slit for a scoring blade attachment? i can't raise the blade at all since it's bolted in place.

[Phil Maddox]

I use 1/2 phenolic for mine. I have a sheet or two if anyone wants to show up and pick it up enough for 10 or so. Forest Hill, MD.

[Neil Brooks]

anyone have any ideas how i'd cut a small slit for a scoring blade attachment? i can't raise the blade at all since it's bolted in place.

What's the kerf ? Could you do a plunge cut with a circ saw ? An angle grinder ? A Dremel ? A drill bit of the same size, and then a scroll saw ?

[Bruce Page]

anyone have any ideas how i'd cut a small slit for a scoring blade attachment? i can't raise the blade at all since it's bolted in place.
Frank, I was uncomfortable starting the initial cut through the zero insert by lowering the insert onto the spinning blade so I bought a cheap 8” blade. The 8” allows me to have the insert fully down while raising the blade to make the first cut.
I don’t know if this would work with a scoring blade setup.

[frank shic]

unfortunately it wouldn't because once it's installed you pretty much kiss blade height variability good bye. it's especially annoying if you have small offcuts... i had to replace the belt one time because a piece fell through the opening :(

[Timothy Wolf]

Does anyone know of one that would fit a Jet super saw?

[Bruce Page]

Does anyone know of one that would fit a Jet super saw?

Like this? Amazon.com (http://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-JT-SS-Supersaw-Clearance-Insert/dp/B0002897MW&usg=AFQjCNGdalvjjK2PGVyQc_ZbTWcnzdtc7g&ei=wG1WT4qBI8fisQfwzKj1DA&ved=0CCAQqxIwAA)

[Van Huskey]

Leecraft makes the biggest line of zero clearence and dado inserts. If you need one for a saw check Leecraft they probably have them, the one Bruce linked to is a Leecraft.

A full list can be found here:

http://www.leecraftzeroclearance.com/

Peachtree also makes a line of them as well:

http://www.ptreeusa.com/zero_clearance.htm

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

anyone have any ideas how i'd cut a small slit for a scoring blade attachment? i can't raise the blade at all since it's bolted in place.

What scoring blade attachment do you have? I have a Modulus Scoring Attachment for my Unisaw and I'm able to raise it up and down some. I have a Wood Dynamics throat plate that I modified so that it will work with my scoring blade.

[Matt Winterowd]

I second the call for PM2000 inserts. The phenolic ones are very useful, but I would really like to be able to use simple plywood replacement strips. This is an accessory that I'm happy to pay someone else to make.

[frank shic]

What scoring blade attachment do you have? I have a Modulus Scoring Attachment for my Unisaw and I'm able to raise it up and down some. I have a Wood Dynamics throat plate that I modified so that it will work with my scoring blade.

you can lower it??? i've gotta try that later on today! how do you like your scoring unit btw? i love it whenever i'm cutting panels. it leaves a funky ridge on wood though...

[Roger Feeley]

I had read that Charles Neal is making the Wood Dynamics plate and I'm glad it's still around. I went to the WD website a year or two ago and saw that the company, machinery, jigs and patents were for sale for $60,000.

I milled a WD type slot in my Sawstop dado plate and it's great. I used an 18 degree dovetail router bit and made a stack of inserts. Believe me, it's so much better using those inserts than looking down the standard dado throat plate. That hole looks like the Grand Canyon with Le Machine at the bottom. Just seeing the stacked dado blades coming out of a zero clearance insert is great.

[richard poitras]

I just bumped up my Wood Dynamics Throat Plate that I had listed in the classified section if there’s any interest or possible fits.

[Randy Henry]

I use corian sink cutouts for free. Rough cut them out, use double sided tape and stick them to the original one, flush trim it, then put in the set screws for leveling and it's done. I drill the same holes in the top as the original for air, but it does not seem to help much.

[Guy Belleman]

Best throat plates are the ones I made from wood and plastic by using the one with the saw as a router template. Just put in some hex head screws for leveling and the whole thing cost a couple of bucks. Usually make a half dozen while at it and done in about 45 minutes.

[Ben Hatcher]

I don't get the need for set screws on shop made plates. I made mine from MDF and just routed the lip to the exact depth I needed and wax it to reduce moisture absorption. Any slight misalighments can be fixed with some foil tape, though I've never had to do this. I use my dado blade to make a shallow relief cut on the bottom side. That said, adding a phenolic insert does look like a nice, if not pricy, touch.

[Todd Davidson]

I don't know what the size difference is, but I have one of the Wood Dynamics/Charles Neil ones that fit a (now long gone) Ridgid Contractor Saw Have been telling myself I'm going to make more inserts and use it on my (old style) Ridgid Job Site saw when I need to replace my Leecrafts (but I have several of them - a clearance purchase - so suppose I could part with it if it'll work.

[frank shic]

well, i've discovered that i can lower the blade of the modulus just low enough to disengage the scoring mechanism but i think i'll have to use neil's suggestion and just cut out a ZCI with another tool.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

Frank, this is how I modified my Wood Dynamics throat plate so it would work with my Modulus Scoring Attachment.

http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz35/HarveyMelvinRichards/ThroatPlateLarge.jpg

[frank shic]

harvey how did you make that smaller cut?

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

harvey how did you make that smaller cut?
I modified this 15 years ago, and I have zero recollection on how I did it. I assume that I used a metal working mill on the aluminum. As for the wood, possibly a small router bit or a Dremel. I think I used a sanding drum on the rounded out part.

[frank shic]

i'll just buy a smaller blade from HF and cut it with the multimaster. thanks for the advice!

[richard poitras]

I just bumped up my Wood Dynamics Throat Plate that I had listed in the classified section if there’s any interest or possible fits.

$50.00 takes the plate and the 12 inserts.... posible gloat! if it fits....

[Harry Niemann]

I make mine from laminated flooring. Works great.

[Guy Belleman]

I think the best TS throat plates are the ones I make out of UHMW 1/2", route the shape from a old insert, sink in four hex head screws for leveling, and for about $5 they work as good as any of the expensive models. While at it, I usually make a half dozen that last many years. I can also change them out quickly for many applications.