5 Cut to a "Perfect" Cross Cut Sled

[jason steele]

If anyone is considering building a sled for their table saw, or want to check it's accuracy. This is the best video I've seen. Very informative, lots of tips and techniques. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ

[Ole Anderson]

Good video, thanks for pointing out a good series of videos, new to me. Here is another quick step by step instruction if you don't want to spend 37 minutes with Mr. Ng.

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/five_cut_method_swf.htm

[Lee Ludden]

I just redid my sled using the tips in this video and on my 2nd test cut, I was within 1/1000 over 16". Much easier than any other method I have heard of.

[Boris Khechoyan]

I find this video -(5 Cut to a "Perfect" Cross Cut Sled) thru William Ng woodworking school http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/
and now I'm ready to build mine.
This step by step video made my life easier .
This is a very good quality video and so much information and now no problem for me to build professional cross cut table saw sled without making mistakes.
I'm planning to get some classes also.
This is a Great school !!!

[pat warner]

"I was within 1/1000 over 16"."
Would very much apprecate your method of measuring 1 part in 16,000 on a saw cut that has far more surface roughness.
Not looking for trouble here; just seeking truth.

[Bill Huber]

That is a very good video, I think anyone could make a good sled whit it.
The only thing I would say is I don't like wooden runners, I have tried them and found that in my area they expand and contract to much. I went with aluminum runners and like them much better. I agree they do cost a lot more but you are making something that should last for years and you want it to be accurate over its life. http://www.incra.com/product_jfc_miterslider.htm

I also found that installing the aluminum runners is easier if you use the table saw fence. I put double back turners tape on the raised runners in the slots and then set the right edge of my fence to the distance from the blade I would it to be. Then holding the base of the sled against the fence I just lower it on to the runners and now I can drill the holes for the screws and then are spot on.

[Alan Lightstone]

I also found that installing the aluminum runners is easier if you use the table saw fence. I put double back turners tape on the raised runners in the slots and then set the right edge of my fence to the distance from the blade I would it to be. Then holding the base of the sled against the fence I just lower it on to the runners and now I can drill the holes for the screws and then are spot on.

I use the same technique using turner's tape and the fence, Bill, as I also am leery of wood runners. One question I've always had, though. Do you leave the turner's tape on the runners and just install the runners right after the holes are drilled, or do you remove the tape before screwing them down?

I use the Micro-Jig runners, though. http://microjig.com/products/zeroplay-guide-bar/ Haven't tried the Incra ones yet. They look nice too.

[Bill Huber]

I use the same technique using turner's tape and the fence, Bill, as I also am leery of wood runners. One question I've always had, though. Do you leave the turner's tape on the runners and just install the runners right after the holes are drilled, or do you remove the tape before screwing them down.

I take the tape off and then put the screws in, I have never had a problem with it. I drill the holes with a smaller bit so I don't hit any of the threads and then use a countersink on top. With the Incra I just don't have the room to leave the tape on, my slots are not deep enough and the bottom of the runners would hit the bottom of the slot.

[Phil Thien]

"I was within 1/1000 over 16"."
Would very much apprecate your method of measuring 1 part in 16,000 on a saw cut that has far more surface roughness.
Not looking for trouble here; just seeking truth.

I've done the five cut method.

I found those types of numbers are achievable, but not repeatable. That is, I can get them once, and the next time I might be .008" or .009" (either way).

First, I use thin-kerf blades. A thin kerf blade can deflect more that .001" over the length of a cut.

Second, my fence isn't straight to within .001" over 16". It certainly has some degree of bow in it. Let's say .003" or .004" over 30".

Third (as you noted), we're working with wood here. The roughness of the cut can vary over its length. Maybe only .001". But that is all it takes to introduce error.

So when it comes to squaring my sled's fence and checking the pieces I've cut, I use a number of squares. Everything from cheap plastic triangles, to my Starrett combination, to a large (checked and trusted) framing square.

I'm not one of those guys that walks around saying "its wood, it will move more than that from season to season." Squareness of a cut doesn't change depending on humidity.

However, IMHO, there are measurements to obsess about, and others that are not just "good enough," but indistinguishable from being any "better."

If you can cross-cut a 24" panel so it is square to within about 1/128th of an inch, you aren't going to notice that in any project I can imagine.

OTOH, being off 1/128th of an inch in your dovetail or box joints is either going to make them too tight to assemble, or so sloppy that the glue won't work that great.

[Mike Heidrick]

Great video - thanks OP for the post!!

[Austin Grote]

"I was within 1/1000 over 16"."
Would very much apprecate your method of measuring 1 part in 16,000 on a saw cut that has far more surface roughness.
Not looking for trouble here; just seeking truth.



The cutoff workpiece (16" long) is .001" wider at one end.

One thousandth of an inch difference in width over a length of 16".

[Rob Holcomb]

Although I understand the need for accuracy, I fail to understand the need to be THAT accurate. .001? Really? With wood? That substance that has a mind of its own? It bows, it warps, it dries, it cracks, it swells and it shrinks. I've never in my life made something out of wood and had a customer or the recipient of one of my gifts tell me that an angle was off a few thousandths. Now I think being very close to a correct angle is important. You certainly don't want visible gaps in your joinery or anywhere else but this is a little over the top in my opinion. I think that sometimes striving for perfection leads the average woodworker frustrated and takes away from the pleasures of building something that you can be proud of. When that happens the only thing accomplished is that frustrated woodworker finds a new hobby. There are many extremely good woodworkers out there and many on this site, but I wonder how many hours people spend striving for perfection setting up their jigs instead of building something. How many woodworkers make their shop cabinets, carts and tables so pristine that they don't actually build anything else. Unless it's your living, isn't the whole idea of woodworking a hobby? Something you love to do to relieve stress or get away from life's problems or to achieve a level of satisfaction knowing you made something? I've read all sorts of threads where people fret over the smallest of measurements to the point that I'm sure they have created so much stress in their life that they need blood pressure medicine. Have fun everyone! Who cares if its not perfect. Its your creations and you should be proud of every one of them!

[Larry Feltner]

That is a very good video, I think anyone could make a good sled whit it.
The only thing I would say is I don't like wooden runners, I have tried them and found that in my area they expand and contract to much. I went with aluminum runners and like them much better. I agree they do cost a lot more but you are making something that should last for years and you want it to be accurate over its life. http://www.incra.com/product_jfc_miterslider.htm

I also found that installing the aluminum runners is easier if you use the table saw fence. I put double back turners tape on the raised runners in the slots and then set the right edge of my fence to the distance from the blade I would it to be. Then holding the base of the sled against the fence I just lower it on to the runners and now I can drill the holes for the screws and then are spot on.

I'm probably missing something obvious, but could you give me a little more detail in how you install the aluminum runners so that the holes are drilled accurately. With wooden runners it does not matter where you drill the holes into the runner because you're creating your own holes as you drill. Doesn't the aluminum runners have pre-drilled holes that you have to match? How do you make sure that each hole you drill from the top of the sled into the runner hits the exact middle of the pre-drilled hole. I've never used aluminum runners, so I'd love a little more detail on how you accurately hit the holes that are already there in the runner.

[Bill Huber]

Doesn't the aluminum runners have pre-drilled holes that you have to match? How do you make sure that each hole you drill from the top of the sled into the runner hits the exact middle of the pre-drilled hole. I've never used aluminum runners, so I'd love a little more detail on how you accurately hit the holes that are already there in the runner.

The Incra that I use have threaded holes in them so yes you have to be dead on to the runner will be off.

Shim the runner so it is just a little higher then the top of the saw. Put turners tape on them the full length and place them in the slots where you want them.

Now set the fence so your sled base will be right distance from the blade. Press the sled base against the fence and at a 45° to the table and in the correct position front to back. Now lower the sled base down onto the runners as you keep it against the fence and press them down.

Lift the sled base up and the runners will come with it, I then place the sled on its top and press the runners down to make sure they don't move. I now use a drill bit that is the same size as the hole in the runners. The bit is not to big as to cut any of the threads from the runner but just make a hole. You can also use a transfer punch, that is what I used on the second sled I made and worked really well.

Now I take the runners off, remove the tape. Drill the holes the correct size for the screws and count-sink them. Now just attach the runners with the screws and that is about it.

[Michael Mayo]

I just finished making my crosscut sled today actually and viewed the Woodwhisperer video on doing it and was all prepared to undertake the 5 cut method then someone posted a link to a different technique that I found to be much quicker and easier to square up the sled fences so that i could attach them. You can view the video here: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=v32 Very straight forward and easy technique I thought and fast!

[Ernie Miller]

If anyone is considering building a sled for their table saw, or want to check it's accuracy. This is the best video I've seen. Very informative, lots of tips and techniques. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ

Terrific video. William Ng just reeks with confidence and competence. Add to that a wonderful teaching style. Just a pleasure to watch.

[Bob Lloyd]

Great video, lot of clamps in the glue up!! Michael, interesting alternative.

[Larry Feltner]

The Incra that I use have threaded holes in them so yes you have to be dead on to the runner will be off.

Shim the runner so it is just a little higher then the top of the saw. Put turners tape on them the full length and place them in the slots where you want them.

Now set the fence so your sled base will be right distance from the blade. Press the sled base against the fence and at a 45° to the table and in the correct position front to back. Now lower the sled base down onto the runners as you keep it against the fence and press them down.

Lift the sled base up and the runners will come with it, I then place the sled on its top and press the runners down to make sure they don't move. I now use a drill bit that is the same size as the hole in the runners. The bit is not to big as to cut any of the threads from the runner but just make a hole. You can also use a transfer punch, that is what I used on the second sled I made and worked really well.

Now I take the runners off, remove the tape. Drill the holes the correct size for the screws and count-sink them. Now just attach the runners with the screws and that is about it.

Thanks bill. That clears up a lot for me. I didn't make the connection on the significance of the turners tape and that it is holding the runners to the sled until you can drill the holes. That makes a lot of sense.

[Chris Tsutsui]

I used the 5 cut method to align the fence of a sliding table saw.

It took me 4 tries to get within 3 thousandths of an inch on a 4'x4' MDF panel on my Hammer K3.

Sure it takes time to set it up that way, but once you have your stops adjusted you can precisely repeat that setting in case you want to adjust the fence to make mitered cuts.

It might not make that much of a functional difference but I know it feels better to know you're cutting at 90 degrees rather than 89.9 degrees, etc...

[Rick Moyer]

.... a different technique that I found to be much quicker and easier to square up the sled fences so that i could attach them. You can view the video here: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=v32 Very straight forward and easy technique I thought and fast!
I think this way looks like an even better way, although either method should work well.