I can use a motor starter.

[Steve knight]

or something using 110v to turn on a 220v motor. with the failure of using x10 for my 220v motor if I can turn on 110v to turn on 220v that would take care of my problem. a fellow made me a box with a motor starter that is controlled with a 110v remote. My load now is only 15 amps 220v so it is not a huge amount. but it would be ncie to control everything with the x10.

[Mike Henderson]

or something using 110v to turn on a 220v motor. with the failure of using x10 for my 220v motor if I can turn on 110v to turn on 220v that would take care of my problem. a fellow made me a box with a motor starter that is controlled with a 110v remote. My load now is only 15 amps 220v so it is not a huge amount. but it would be ncie to control everything with the x10.
Look for a contactor with the coil rated at 120V and the contacts rated at 240V and the amps you need. You can find them on eBay. I bought one to switch 220 with a motion sensor driving the coil. So my compressor only goes on when I'm in the shop.

Mike

[Matt Meiser]

Or factorymation.com

[Steve knight]

I am no electrical expert but I think this is what I need?
http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.98/.f?sc=14&category=170614

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Steve, yes that will be fine for a 15A load, it's also rated at 2.2Kw motor load at 240 volts............Regards, Rod.

[Steve knight]

will this work with 110v? I want to use low voltage to turn on my 110v motors but all of the contactors don't show 120.

[Mike Heidrick]

The coil is 120V so its not really low voltage (compared to 12V or 24VDC). You can use it to switch 120V at up to 1.5kw 2hp 25.5 amp. Just because it has 3 poles does not mean you have to use all three.

Rod, the CU22 contactor is rated at 3kw 220V single phase, the CU18 is 2.2kw.

There are better specs in the pdf.

http://factorymation.info/motor_controls/CN-18toCN-22.pdf

[Steve knight]

I meant this guy 24v
http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.89/.f?sc=2&category=16
though 12v would be better. I see using one of these on each 110v motor as each is on it's own breaker with 3 way switches to both so they both turn on and off at once. the x10 works ok for a bit then gets unreliable. So if I can use these with a low voltage wire it would be pretty easy to set it all up.
anything more reliable then the x10 starts to get expensive.

[shane lyall]

Steve, My jointer came with a 3 phase motor and a starter with a 220 coil. I went to a single phase 220 motor so I ordered a 110 coil from ebay and just picked up control voltage from one leg of the 220. By the time I changed heaters, tips, and overloads along with the new coil I could have bought a new line starter for about the same money. What do you need as I may have parts here somewhere that I will never use. You can have them for the cost of shipping if I can help.

[Mike Heidrick]

What size motors are you powering with the CU-9. At 120V its only rated at 10.5 amps. What will you use to supply your 24V coil voltage?

I use the CU-9 with a 48V DC power supply powering CNC stepper motors and a Hitachi M12V router in a CNC build but I do not have any large tools being switched by one.

[Paul Stoops]

I used a 24VAC doorbell transformer wired into my shop lite circuit so it can't come on unless the shop lites are on. I used a X10 remote and appliance module to switch the 24VAC to the DC contactor which has a 24VAC coil. The contactor in turn switches the 220VAC for my DC. Works great!

[John Coloccia]

or something using 110v to turn on a 220v motor. with the failure of using x10 for my 220v motor if I can turn on 110v to turn on 220v that would take care of my problem. a fellow made me a box with a motor starter that is controlled with a 110v remote. My load now is only 15 amps 220v so it is not a huge amount. but it would be ncie to control everything with the x10.

Remove the remote from the box, and plug it into a switched outlet instead.

What's an x10?

[Greg Portland]

or something using 110v to turn on a 220v motor. with the failure of using x10 for my 220v motor if I can turn on 110v to turn on 220v that would take care of my problem. a fellow made me a box with a motor starter that is controlled with a 110v remote. My load now is only 15 amps 220v so it is not a huge amount. but it would be ncie to control everything with the x10.
I got a DP (definite purpose) 3-pole (needed for 220V) contactor and mounted it in an electric box. I then ran a RF Christmas tree remote into the box which controls the contactor state (Hit the button and the 110V A/C closes the contactor, hit it again and it opens). The contactor and electric box can be found on the used market; the total project should cost well under $100. You could use the X10 in place of the Christmas tree remote.

IMPORTANT NOTE: X10 is going out of business. There patents have expired so I'm sure someone will start making similar equipment.

[Paul Stoops]

[QUOTE=John Coloccia;

What's an x10?[/QUOTE]

X10 is a company that markets a line of equipment for security systems and remote controls suited for home/shop use. The X10 remotes referred to here are usually hand held devices that transmit a wireless signal to a receiver plugged into your house wiring. The device to be controlled is in turn connected to the same receiver or another receiver in another location and the house wiring. The RF signal travels over your house wiring to cause the receiver to switch states (On/Off), thereby switching the state of the attached device being controlled. (A rather simplistic explanation........)

I didn't see any reference to the X10 folks going out of business, but there are other comparable devices.

http://www.thehomeautomationstore.com/x10-home-automation.html

[Steve knight]

Ok here is what I have and what I want to do. I want to be able to turn on my van boxes from either end of my cnc router And my dc from one end. I have one vac box that has two 110v motors that are about 10.5 amps each. Once running they don’t draw a lot but I need them on separate breakers to start them both at once. I have another van box used sometimes that is 220v that draws 15 amps total.
my dc is 220 and has a motor starters with a wireless remote to start it.
I bought two 120v x10 controls for the one box and a 220v for the other and two wired controllers for each end. the 120v’s and the one I put on the dc worked for a few days then sometimes I could not get them to shut off or start. or one would start and one not on the 120v vac box. the 220v would never work for some reason.
So what I am thinking of doing is buying 4 contactors two for the 120v motors one for the 220 and one for my dc. using the 24v version running wire for three way switches on each end of my machine and the dc on one end. what I was after is one control for everything on each end.
I don’t want to run romex for all of the switches and I don’t want three separate remotes on each end of the table. There are higher end rf remotes but I don’t really want to spend that much. But I was not sure if the contractors worked for 120v since they are not labeled.
The better wired systems require a extra wire so thats out.
I want to buy 4 of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Packard-C225A-2-Pole-25-Amps-24-volt-Coil-Contactor-/300674309607?pt=BI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools&hash=item460195dde7
but I was not positive if they would work with 110v.
some 3 way switches low voltage wire and a transformer or two.
These get a lot of use in a day and it is nice not to have to run around my machine to turn the vac on and off.

[Paul Stoops]

Hi Steve,

It looks to me like the contactor you have selected would work for your application. However, I found a better price here:
http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C225A-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B004Y7RIM8, and for a couple bucks more you can get the same model rated at 40A.

I'm not sure you can use one control at each end for controlling everything, since you say that your 220VAC van (should that be vac?) box is used intermittently. I think that would require a separate switch, which would only be used when you wanted to use that device.

Also be aware your 24VAC transformer must be rated high enough to handle all of the contactor coils simultaneously.

Are you replacing the motor starter w/remote on your DC with a contactor? A rough sketch of your layout might be helpful to us.

Paul, in Auburn, WA

[Steve knight]

I will have one switch on the 110v 1 on the 220 and 1 on the dc.
the dc is not critical as the wireless remote works fine. but it would be nice to have everything in one place.
I don’t know how much power it will take to operate them I will buy two transformers and see I guess.
the dc Has a 110 wireless remote I would just replace that with the contactor.

[Paul Stoops]

I think you should be able to use the same 24VAC control transformer to power all of your contactors. I would think that a transformer with a secondary rated at 2 amps would be sufficient (Maybe some of you forum members with more electrical savvy can verify this or suggest an alternative).

As I suggested earlier, I would opt for contactors with a higher current rating. This one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003U7Z8Q6/ref=sc_pgp__m_AYXUXGYZSY4AP_3?ie=UTF8&m=AYXUXGYZSY4AP&n=&s=&v=glance

has contacts rated at 40A. Specs for this contactor are here: http://www.packardonline.com/showItemDetail.aspx?Item_Id=10034300

Since say you are going to be switching these contactors several times a day, I would think the higher rated contacts, which are sometimes larger and more durable, would give you longer life. The arcing of the contacts when switching can be detrimental to the contacts over time.

Paul, in Auburn, WA

[Steve knight]

well I revived all of the parts today so I decided to forgo movie day and get this wired. For me this is work I am no good with power and it took a lot of asking and some googling to get it right.
but this is the most cost effective way to turn my dc and vacuum boxes on from two different locations (each end of the bot)
so the contactors are the cheapest part they are only 5.50 each on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y7RIM8/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
I bought 4 of them (two for my 110v van as each motor is on it’s own circuit so I wanted to turn both on at once. one for my 220v vac and one for my dc that uses a wireless remote.
I bought a 24v transformer. I ended up getting a power supply because I could not find info on how much juice so I found one that puts out 4 amps and only cost 15.00 with shipping from ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-to-DC-24V-5A-Regulated-Switching-Power-Converter-Supply-/290685188792?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43ae2ffab8
6 sick pack of 3 way switches from home depot 6.00 and 100 feet of 18 -7 sprinkler wire.
I tested out the power supply on a contractor and it worked. then I did the fumbling screwing up and finally following the instructions exactly to wire three way switches I got it. I wanted a three gang metal box but I could only find them in plastic and they are too deep so I used separate boxes. I used almost all of the 100 feet once I ran the wire to my dc.
this poor van box and been hacked on and needs a redesign to fit it all in but this works.
what I really wanted was a 3 way switch with a single button so when in a funk I don’t have to think about what way to flip the switch.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/knighttoolworks/posting/a734d451.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/knighttoolworks/posting/74cacbe5.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/knighttoolworks/posting/885d7da9.jpg