Recommendations on Bookcase Finish.

[AJ Johnson]

Hello,

I've been a hobbyist woodworker for a few years with a few simple furniture pieces under my belt. In the past, I have put less emphasis on the finishing process due to inexperience. I've only used oil based stains (oak) and poly (also oil, Minwax or Zar) applied by brush.

My new piece is a bookcase for my son's room built with Birch ply and Poplar top and trim. Since the grain is not the best looking, and two species used, I'm looking to do a Dark Walnut stain/dye followed by a Lacquer finish.

To step-up my finish quality, I bough a Fuji MM4 and want to try waterborne products now (EM6000).

Questions:

1. Considering the woods I'm using, what would be the best way to color or dye?

2. Am I going to have blotchy coverage with Poplar/Birch?

3. I have a can of Minwax Tung Oil. Would a coating of that before stain and Lacquer (with proper drying) richen the grain pattern? Or is this a bad workflow?

4. I want to try Lacquer to see how it finishes compared to Poly. Is this durable enough for a bookcase?


Thanks guys,

A.J.

[Jim Summers]

Hello,

I've been a hobbyist woodworker for a few years with a few simple furniture pieces under my belt. In the past, I have put less emphasis on the finishing process due to inexperience. I've only used oil based stains (oak) and poly (also oil, Minwax or Zar) applied by brush.

My new piece is a bookcase for my son's room built with Birch ply and Poplar top and trim. Since the grain is not the best looking, and two species used, I'm looking to do a Dark Walnut stain/dye followed by a Lacquer finish.

To step-up my finish quality, I bough a Fuji MM4 and want to try waterborne products now (EM6000).

Questions:

1. Considering the woods I'm using, what would be the best way to color or dye?

I have switched over to dye for most things now and really like it. I am not good enough yet with my LVLP gun to try tinting.

2. Am I going to have blotchy coverage with Poplar/Birch?

Possibly, maybe want to consider a pre-stain conditioner. Many ways to do that and there are some off-the-shelf options also. The key is to have many test/scrap pieces to practice on before the "real deal".

3. I have a can of Minwax Tung Oil. Would a coating of that before stain and Lacquer (with proper drying) richen the grain pattern? Or is this a bad workflow?

It doesn't seem like a good idea. Something to do with adhesion it seems. Possibly after the stain, a light coat of shellac. Target has a WB shellac that works well with em6000.

4. I want to try Lacquer to see how it finishes compared to Poly. Is this durable enough for a bookcase?

I have used USL and em6000 on two bookcases and tonight will be spraying my third bookcase with it.


Thanks guys,

A.J.

For some reason my inline responses are not getting counted towards the 10 word count.

[Prashun Patel]

Both poplar and birch can blotch with a pigment based stain. Further, putting down an oil or oil/varnish prior to the colorant will prevent the colorant from absorbing into the wood.

You have a couple choices:

1) Easiest: If you just want a warm amber cast, then you can spray an amber or garnet shellac with yr sprayer. A few light coats is all you'll need. Once you have a thin even sheen, rub it 400g and you can top with your EM6000 for protection.

2) Next Easiest: If you want a darker color, use an aniline dye. A good brand is Transtint. You can mix the concentrate in denatured alcohol and spray it as you would spray any finish. Many light coats is the way to go. Note that when it dries, the color will look faded and muddy. Don't be misled by that; as soon as you get yr EM6000 on it, it'll brighten back up. How it looks WET is how it will look with a topcoat. After your color is down, you can spray it with the EM6000 directly. No barrier coat of shellac necessary.

[Greg Portland]

I did the following on my bookcase project:

1) dark grain filler
2) seal coat of shellac
3) stain/tint adjustment using Transtint dyes
4) Surface coats (I wiped on Waterlox)
5) Wax

They key takeaway is that I really liked what the grain filler did to the final product. I ended up with a very smooth surface and the grain really popped. This was with actual walnut ply; you can do a test piece with the birch/poplar and see how it looks.

[AJ Johnson]

I scrapped the Tung Oil idea. Needing to stain today to remain on schedule, I bought some Old Master Gel Stain in "American Walnut." I wiped it on, blotching didn't occur any Poplar, two small areas of the Birch ply showed faint effects of blotching. Overall not a problem. The color is very nice.

The question now, is there still an advantage to putting a coat of TC Shellac on before the EM6000? I'm thinking yes if nothing more for the amber color cast as the Walnut is very brown.

[Scott Holmes]

AJ, Plus the shellac will help seal the stain and prevent any adhesion problem with the EM 6000.


Greg, in step 3 stain/tint adjustment using Transtint dyes. After step 2 the wood is sealed and the stain and especially the dye can't get to the wood. Are you adding it as a glaze coat or toner coat?

[Greg Portland]

Greg, in step 3 stain/tint adjustment using Transtint dyes. After step 2 the wood is sealed and the stain and especially the dye can't get to the wood. Are you adding it as a glaze coat or toner coat?
Scott, thinking back I actually mixed it in with the shellac. This was only to match the overall color of the boards (versus staining sapwood to make it look like heartwood). You do not want to use Transtint as-is in Waterlox.