Need an Idea for a back to a stereo cabinet

[Jay Jolliffe]

I made a cabinet that I need to find something to put on the back for air ventilation....Any Ideas.....In my head I've gone from pierced metal panel to routing slots in plywood....The cabinet is made from Mahogany so it needs to be kinda nice....Unfortunately it sits from the wall so the back will be seen.

[Van Huskey]

Since the back is on view it might help to see a picture or at least a description of the style, what might look good on Mid-Century Modern may not look good on Chippendale

If no picture is the front covered with doors or is it open, if it isn't covered then there will be a lot less need for venting in the back

[Neil Brooks]

I agree with Van, in thinking we don't have enough information, here.

Knowing more about the cabinet, what -- specifically -- it's going to have to hold, and how it will be located seems important.

Not everything in a stereo cabinet needs 100CFM of moving air, so ... an open front may be sufficient.

HOW visible the back will be is important, too, since ... if it will be shadowed, you may want to veneer 1/4" ply or Masonite, and ventilate it -- if need be -- with a BUNCH of holes.

That said, you're clearly going to have a significant amount of electrical running TO this cabinet, so ... it's possible that a "muffin fan" or two ... or three ... will provide PLENTY of ventilation with an open/partly open front, and CLOSED back.

Also, stacking height of components can make a fairly big difference in circulation. Stacking and stickering components can help them acclimate to your shop.

Wait. Got side-tracked. Never mind ;)

[Jay Jolliffe]

Here you go....225966225967The stereo components are on a pull out rack. There are only three components.

[Van Huskey]

First, I am going to ASSUME the three are a receiver, optical disc reader and a sat/cable box. I would place the lowest heat producer on the bottom so Bluray then sat/cable box with the receiver on top, so the bottom two don't get heat saoked by the receiver. Then what I would do is make 1 rather large hole and shape it to mirror the inlay on the front, if you feel like that is too "open" I would back it with mesh or something. It puts it at the right height to carry heat away from the receiver. Hopefully you can leave 4-6 inches of air space above the receiver (most manufacturers have a requirement) the higher the volume of open air above it the better. Dont have the shelves any deeper than they have to be that way the air circualte in the cabinet as much as possible.

Bottom line I would repeat the design as large as you feel necessary on the back, add some tasteful mesh IF you need to cover the hole better. I would like something that looks like it belongs better than something that is obviously just for venting.

PS I forgot to say BEAUTIFUL job.

[Greg Portland]

Jay, does it have to be solid? I would use a strip of speaker grill cloth placed near the top and install one or two 80-120mm fans on the inside to suck out the hot air. This will have the added advantage of minimizing dust (versus a board-with-holes solution).

Note, you can get speaker grill cloth in a variety of colors.

[Peter Aeschliman]

My components sit in a cabinet with a bunch of large holes I drilled in the back. Even then, it gets way too hot in the cabinet for my liking, so I end up having to open the door... My setup is a receiver, an xbox 360 (puts off lots of heat), and a blu ray player.

I've designed my system so that I can use a infrared repeater. This means that I could keep the cabinet doors closed and still use my remotes to run the components. But I have to keep the door open to keep it somewhat cool (and even then it's hotter than I would like).

I guess my point is that you may need more than just holes in your cabinet. You may need a cabinet fan. Some examples:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=entertainment+center+fan&x=0&y=0

Some of them have temp sensors that turn on when it gets hot, while others are designed to run full-time. Not sure how this works into your design aesthetic, it might be something to consider.

[Van Huskey]

I did not mention fans since being a self proclaimed audiophile I hate them as I can hear them. More and more mid-fi receivers and amps are coming with fans and I go out of my way to get equipment with only passive heat sinks, mid-fi almost always came that way, in todays penny pinching days they are harder to find.

I assume since he is closing the front (a little form over function) audio is not at a huge premium and I am guessing (though I could be wrong) isn't running 7,8 or 9 low impedence, low sesitivity speakers at reference levels for hours on end. If I am wrong and plans to hide something like a Denon 5308 in there then he needs to take a completely different approach and may well need to investigate fans.

[Eric DeSilva]

Mmmm... I wouldn't write off fans. I have fairly severe audiophile and anti-fan tendencies--to the degree that my computer CPU and GPU are cooled using passive heat pipes. That said, my two very-audiophile power amps both have fans in them and they don't bother me. If you do use fans, remember they should exhaust air from the cabinet, not blow air into it, and you still need strategic intake holes/vents that result in the air flowing through the right places. And you need to get really quiet fans. Look for ones designed for Quiet PCs.

[Ben Hatcher]

Somehow I doubt this will work at this point in the design, but if you have some extra depth, you could install a raised panel on the back and create air flow by installing a baffle an inch or two inside the rear panel that extends from the floor to an inch or two from the top. Slot or drill the bottom shelf and put a fan in the bottom between the baffle and rear panel. You'd need to arch the front and back base pieces and separate the cool air side from the exhaust side on the underside of the cabinet.

Other ideas: making the back a louvered panel and routing slots with some kind of design, like a wave pattern or as another suggested to mimic the inaly on the front.

[Van Huskey]

Mmmm... I wouldn't write off fans. I have fairly severe audiophile and anti-fan tendencies--to the degree that my computer CPU and GPU are cooled using passive heat pipes. That said, my two very-audiophile power amps both have fans in them and they don't bother me. If you do use fans, remember they should exhaust air from the cabinet, not blow air into it, and you still need strategic intake holes/vents that result in the air flowing through the right places. And you need to get really quiet fans. Look for ones designed for Quiet PCs.


Actually, I had to relent on fans with my HT, my amps are all still passive but try to find a quiet projector!

[Jay Jolliffe]

Thanks for all the input but it's getting to complicated with adding fans & all that. Most likely the door will say open & there is about 5" of space between the components and the back. The louvered panel sounds good so I'll get to buy some new router bits & jig :)Like I need more bits.

[Ben Hatcher]

You might want to consider hinging the back panel, or installing it with magnets. I know you said the components are on a pull out rack, but being able to pop open the back to access cables is pretty handy.

[Jay Jolliffe]

That's a good Idea about the magnets to hold the back panel. It doesn't show but the door slides into the cabinet & was the a pain in the a** to get to work right. I've done them before on much larger doors & didn't have a problem but this one, it took hrs to get it right. Something is out of whack someplace or the slide are off. I'd lean towards something out of whack.

[Sam Murdoch]

Why not just install a wood grill or louvre or even a metal one that is painted to match. Try Lee Valley, or Doug Mockett or even Google for floor register companies or make one, you certainly have the ability :)

[Mark Rakestraw]

Another idea would be lots of holes in the bottom and a slot in the top rail just below the top.

[frank shic]

nice looking cab!

[Roger Feeley]

What about a frame stretched with speaker cloth? You could make a nice black frame and stretch black cloth over it with the good side facing backwards. If you make it exactly the right size, it would be sort of a press fit for easy removal. Air flow would be no problem at all.

[Ted Baca]

Jay, I am a bit of an audiophile myself and thru the years I have experimented with different cooling methods. I run some good sized amps as well as a preamps and a processor that can generate generous amounts of heat. I have found the simplest and most effective is utilizing natural convection. In a case where only a few components are involved I would suggest if possible to add some vents at the bottom front of the cabinet. This will allow cooler air off the floor to draw up into the cabinet. Then at the top of the back of the cabinet create an opening of slightly larger size of those at the bottom. This allows the heat to naturally rise up and out of the back, since you state you have about 5", for cables I assume, behind the components. That makes a nice chase of flue, the displacement of that air as it rises creates a natural draw of cooler air at the bottom front. This air draws in, up, and across the components disappating that heat as it continues up and out the back. As far as how the back looks is concerned you appear to have star design on the front. Why not cut out a few holes in the shape, white keeping them small enough to maintain a size proportionate to the holes in front. On the holes in the front those can be in the bottom but you need to make sure ther is an opening for the air to enter the area beneath the bottom surface.

[Rick Potter]

A nice panel with bars or slats like a jail cell? Or, as someone already said.....a louvered panel. Possibly an opening mimicing the star motif?

Rick Potter

[Carl Beckett]

Even a row of good size holes across the bottom, and another row across the top, would allow a convection path inside and may be sufficient

In the past I have made electronics cabinets I leave a large gap along the ,back, just under the top ( the back isn't full height ) It looks fine and also allows wires to route in and out, and with an intake opening at the bottom somewhere ( which could be the floor inside the cabinet ) it allows a convective flow.

Beautiful cabinet!

[Myk Rian]

Most likely the door will say open & there is about 5" of space between the components and the back.
Probably the best bet. That's what we do. Kinda sucks, but it's what you have to do.

[Jay Jolliffe]

226741This is what I came up with for the back of the stereo cabinet. The grid is mortised into the rails & stiles. Hope that will let enough air in to cool the components. There are only three so I can't see to much heat generated.

[Sam Murdoch]

Well see, you certainly do have the ability :). Very nice and I'm sure, effective solution.

[Jon Middleton]

I'm building my equipment rack for my home theater without doors for just this reason. In our family room, our 55" flat screen sits on top of a cabinet, which holds a preamp, power amp, tuner, satellite box, Blue Ray and CD player. It has doors which must be left open when anything is on, which is a pain. The equipment cabinet in the home theater will be 2' wide and 5' tall, so there will be plenty of airspace around the components without a fan for cooling. I like being able to see the gear, anyway.