Give this a try! 3 Hour clock project

[Roger Berwick]

This is a nice little project if you have got a few hours spare, I regularly make these at demonstrations etc - Obviously the references are in UK £ etc but with a bit of Google bashing I'm sure you will be able to find the parts local to you.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2342.jpg


Ok, I often get asked for items to give as retirement gifts etc and I have made alot of these so here goes if you fancy having a go at making one - They are really easy! I started making these when I used to demonstrate for Triton more years ago than I care to remember - seriously they are really easy to make.


You will need some timber of your choice, 2 metres of 4mm inlay banding again of your choice


You will also want the following parts from a clock supplier - I used Martin Dunn at the Clock Gallery - The bits cost a total of £36.30 inc VAT & Delivery)


1 x 94mm Wide Brass Loop Handle (A2080)
4 x 10mm Small Brass Ogee Feet (A2157)
1 x 103mm Insertion Movement (Q1103R)


Ok Here we go!


Firstly take a lump of timber, I used Oak, and chop a lump that you can finish to 250mm x 150mm x 70mm


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2271.jpg


Surface, thickness and cut to length.


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2274.jpg


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2278-1.jpg


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2280.jpg


Next drill a 60mm diameter hole to accept the movement - I used an expanding bit in the pillar drill but sawtooth or similar will be fine


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2285.jpg


Next rout a 4mm groove around the front and side faces of the block to accept inlay banding


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2292.jpg


You will need to square the corners with a corner chisel - or normal bevel edges chisel - its up to you


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2294.jpg


You can now cut the inlay banding, i used some left over kingwood banding


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2296.jpg


The inlay was then glued in using titebond glue and after all sides were done the excess was sanded off with the random orbit sander but you could use a cabinet scraper if preferred. You only need to leave it for about 15 mins so by the time you have done all sides they are ready to sand.


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2300.jpg


With the inlays in place I then routed the corners using a cock bead cutter like this


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2307.jpg


To produce a fake column on each of the corners


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2302.jpg


The basic centre of the clock is now complete


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2309.jpg


Next cut 2 pieces of timber 166mm x 86mm x 16mm to form the top and bottom of the clock, these can be routed with a cutter of your choice


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2313.jpg


Continued in the following post as I nave exceeded the picture limit

[Roger Berwick]

The piece that is to be used for the bottom needs some stop chamfers routed on it to line up to where the brass corner feet will be screwed.


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2317.jpg


This bottom piece can then be screwed onto the main block, elongate the screw holes slightly to allow for any movement and the brass feet applied to each corner with some small round head screws.


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2323-1.jpg


Take the other piece and rout the upper side with a decorative cut and apply another piece to the top measuring 140mm x 60mm x 20mm. Again rout this upper piece to a finished profile.


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2326.jpg


Next drill the holes for the handle through the upper sections and fit the handle countersinking the underside to allow the nuts to sink below the surface of the timber


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2327.jpg


The top needs to be glued on - I appreciate there may be concerns re movement in the main block but if it well seasoned you shouldnt have any problems - I have made alot of these over the years and have never had one move. I used two part mitre glue for convenience/speed


With the brass removed, I then rubbed it down, three coats of celulose sanding sealer and then over waxed with Mylands Light Brown


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2342.jpg


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq152/BogeyLR/DSCF2343.jpg


Hope you approve and look forward to seeing pictures of your versions posted here in due course, and yes started and finished in a tad over 3 hours


Rog

[Keith Starosta]

That is really very nice, Roger!! Great idea for some scrap wood.

- Keith

[Jim Becker]

That's a really outstanding project, Rog...and there is always room for "quickie" projects that can be done in anywhere from a few hours to a weekend. So many woodworkers are time challenged (myself included) and shop time is dear. Having a project once in awhile that can go from start to completion in the near term can be very satisfying!

[Bruce Page]

I have built a few mantel clocks, they are always fun to do!
I like your cock beading trick, I’ll have to remember that one.

[Bruce Page]

Here’s one I made for my sister. It’s Curly Koa harvested from a small log I picked up in Hawaii.
Sorry for the lousy picture. :o

[Leo Graywacz]

Never heard it called a cock bead. I just call it a full bead as opposed to a face bead which would be only one pass instead of two passes.