New/Old WorkShop Gloat #1

[Ken Kimbrell]

As mentioned in my Intro to the Creek thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=18139), the floor of my NewOld WorkShop was at the top of the list of stuff to do.

Well, it’s in!
After considering the advice of several Creek members that it was not a good idea to concrete over the electrical and DC connections I decided to go with the trench option because I really like having that stuff out of the way and not having to step over extension cords and pipes, but understanding that needs can change.

It will mostly be used for the TS, so only one run was cut in, it starts at the West wall and stops about three feet from the East wall. The rest of the systems will be in/on the walls, or the ceilings. The trench is 8 inches wide and 10 inches deep and has a 1.5 inch thick plywood cover that will drop in making it floor level when covered. That should be strong enough to hold my P/U as it drives in or out of the shop

Here’s a pix to help me stay on the good side of our CoPP…
and if you would like to see a few more just go HERE. (http://www.mykimbrell.com/WoodWorking%20Shop.htm)

[Bruce Page]

Ken, that looks like it is going to be a sweeet shop!
Congrats! http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon14.gif

[lou sansone]

excellent so far.... take your time and continue to think it through.


regards
lou

[Rob Russell]

Use the square drive deck screws to hold the plywood top down to the box. The square drive screw head gets a much better bite when you need to back the screw out.

Fill the screw heads with painters caulk. That way, when the floor is poured - the screw heads won't fill up with concrete and make your life miserable when you try to back the screws out. The caulk will stay soft for long enough for you to clean the heads out. DAMHIKT. Reviewing your post before I posted this, I see that the floor is already poured. Oh well.

You'll find that the 10" piece of plywood has a bounce to it. You might consider putting a layer of steel plate under the plywood as a stiffener. If the top is 3/4" plywood now, you could put the steel plate pieces in and then a layer of 5/8" ply over the steel plate.

Rob

[Ken Kimbrell]

Use the square drive deck screws to hold the plywood top down to the box. The square drive screw head gets a much better bite when you need to back the screw out.

Fill the screw heads with painters caulk. That way, when the floor is poured - the screw heads won't fill up with concrete and make your life miserable when you try to back the screws out. The caulk will stay soft for long enough for you to clean the heads out. DAMHIKT. Reviewing your post before I posted this, I see that the floor is already poured. Oh well.

You'll find that the 10" piece of plywood has a bounce to it. You might consider putting a layer of steel plate under the plywood as a stiffener. If the top is 3/4" plywood now, you could put the steel plate pieces in and then a layer of 5/8" ply over the steel plate.

Rob
Thanks for the advice Rob, the caulk idea makes good sense, but as you say…it’s a done deal done now. As for the plywood, it only has to span 8 inches, with a three inch lip on either side and it will be 2 pieces of ¾ glued and screwed together. If that ends up not being enough support it may be necessary to do something along the lines of your second suggestion.
Many thanks to everyone else for all the nice comments.:)

[Rick Reinsma]

Hey Ken, I would run a few extra runs of conduit to each wall for future considerations. Its alot easier now before the concrete is poured. I wish I did. Also is it possible to run some dust collection runs underneath the floor?..,Rick

[Rob Russell]

Thanks for the advice Rob, the caulk idea makes good sense, but as you say…it’s a done deal done now. As for the plywood, it only has to span 8 inches, with a three inch lip on either side and it will be 2 pieces of ¾ glued and screwed together. If that ends up not being enough support it may be necessary to do something along the lines of your second suggestion.
Many thanks to everyone else for all the nice comments.:)

I just used a single layer of 3/4" P/T plywood for the trench bottom, sides and top. I'd think a double layer of 3/4 ply glued and screwed should be fine. Make sure that overlap the layers at the ends so you don't have an unsupported joint.

Overall - looks great! I'm green with envy about your space. :D

[Frank Pellow]

Thanks for the progess report Ken ...and I am looking forward to more of them.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Good ideas!! I like the caulk in the screwhead idea a lot! Looks like a great shop in the making!!