Getting there.....

[Mark Hix]

I have not had alot of turning time lately but after I cut the weeds on Saturday, decided it was time. This is only my second attempt at a hollow form. I think it is Maple Burl, I bought some unknown burl out of a bin at Woodcraft a couple of years ago. It is about 3" across. The finish is rattle can and I will sand if off and try again. It has a couple of runs that I did not see at first.

I always appreciate your tips and suggestions. A smaller hollowing tool is a must. I have the big Sorby swan neck one and the opening is the smallest I could make.

[Baxter Smith]

The flat top makes it tough to hollow Mark. Its a pretty piece of wood. Too bad about the runs and sanding. One of the reasons I like oil!

[John Keeton]

Mark, not bad for a second attempt. As Baxter said, the flat top makes hollowing difficult. Looks like you achieved a nice curve on the lower portion, and I agree that looks like maple burl - pretty wood!

On the finish, instead of sanding, take some lacquer thinner and wipe it off. Then, buy a can of Deft brushing lacquer, and thin a little of it with about 10-20% acetone to use for wiping on a few coats to get a built up finish. Then, you can sand it with 600 grit before laying on a couple more coats. You should be able to get a decent finish that way in pretty short order.

Many of us like Minwax wipe on poly, too. It can be applied over lacquer, but lacquer cannot be applied over the WOP. Shellac also makes a nice under coat for the WOP.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Congrats on your second HF! I agree with the others that you created a pretty tough form to hollow! Looks like you wanted to retain as much as that pretty wood as possible and having only a large hollowing tool sure does limit your design possibilities! Good luck with the finish issues! Looking forward to seeing HF #3!

[Mark Hix]

I do appreciate the help. John, I will give it try with the thinner and Deft. This was about 1/3 of the burl so I get to try again.