Look out now................

[Dave Lehnert]

I just placed an order for my first Chuck. You thought I had a ton of questions before, Look out now. LOL!!!!

I went with the PSI Barracuda CSC2000C with the levers. I read for hours different reviews and forum post and was actually convinced that I would be happier with levers vs a key. Another factor was cost. I figure I can get my feet wet with what I like and dislike in a chuck. If I want a keyed chuck in the future I will move up to something above a PSI.

I do have one question. I was watching a Fine Woodworking turning video. The wood turner was using a chuck with levers. I was surprised how much pressure he was using to tighten down the chuck. He was actually up on his tip toes and applying his full body weight on the levers. This just seemed kinda excessive to me.

[Steve Vaughan]

Dave, you'll get the feel of how much pressure you have to put on the wood. And, you'll figure that out just as soon as a piece flies right on out of that thing and zings by your head! :D:p:eek: That is absolutely the last thing you want and ya gotta get her tight to keep it from happening. I don't have one of those kinds of chucks, but my gut tells me that you'll need to exert a touch more pressure that way on the bars, than if you used the keys or allen wrenches like on the supernova. Either way, you've got a great chuck and you'll be fine.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I'm surprised that anyone recommends the old double lever tightening chuck, because you need a third hand to hold the blank tightly against the chuck jaws while tightening. Applying pressure with the tailstock does help, but often very awkward in use.

[Bob Hamilton]

One hand, squeezing the tommy bars together just like gripping a pair of pliers. The other hand is free to hold the piece against the chuck, exactly the same as when using a keyed chuck. If the tenon or recess is sized and shaped correctly there is no need to over tighten the chuck.

Bob

[Doug W Swanson]

I've got both types of chucks and don't have any problems with either one. When using the bar style, you just need to make sure that you rotate the chuck to find the spot for the tommy bars. Sometimes the holes are too close and sometimes too far apart. Not a big deal though....

[Dave Lehnert]

As far as the PSI chucks, I found enough reviews that said if the key was not inserted just right and/ or the teeth on the key get a little worn it slips . Also I saw a video of the Tommy Bar chuck where the turner just used his hands to open and close the chuck to proper size. Can this be done on a key chuck?????? I'm not saying a key chuck is not better. Just felt, for me, it was not worth an extra $40 to $50. For that I could buy a bowel scraper and a live center or something.
Anyway, I will post my honest opinion on the issue when I receive it.
I had a job for years where I had to assemble things by myself that should have taken 3 people. So handling two bars on a chuck should be a slice of cake.

[Baxter Smith]

I have both kinds of chucks and do find the keyed easier with larger/heavier pieces. Watched a demo where someone used a philips head screwdriver with the tip ground off to brace against their chest, they then only needed one bar held in there left hand to tighten the chuck.

[Russell Eaton]

A easy trick with the tommy bar chuck. Lock the spindle lock on the lathe, then all you need to use is 1 bar. I have both for my small lathes, I prefer the tommy bar for the lighter turnings.

[Reed Gray]

A keyed chuck has a lower gear ratio than the tommy bar type of chuck. The tommy bar type chuck is a bit faster, maybe. I had one experience with one of them, and stuck with the keyed chuck. Never looked back.

robo hippy

[Dave Lehnert]

I just wanted to update my post.

I got the chance to use my chuck with tommy bars. My PSI chuck turns so freely I can just use one hand to spin the chuck to get things snug as I am holding the turning blank with the other. Then my hands are free to tighten with the two tommy bars.
I do not have a spindle lock (Shopsmith with a reeves drive) but was able to use just one tommy bar to spin the chuck open and close without spinning the shaft. This was before I added some graphite to the chuck to make it work a little more freely. I am sure the reeves drives helps hold the spindle and may not experience the same on another type of lathe.

At the end of the day I am happy with the tommy bars. In fact I would have not noticed any issues at all If I did not know about a key chuck. If the price was the same or $10 to $20 more for a key chuck I would maybe go that way but not for $50 extra.

[Bob Hamilton]

Hi, Dave:
Why are you using both hands on the tommy bars? Can you not just squeeze them together in one hand like the handles of a pair of pliers?

Bob

[Dave Lehnert]

Hi, Dave:
Why are you using both hands on the tommy bars? Can you not just squeeze them together in one hand like the handles of a pair of pliers?

Bob

Yep. Sure can if I put the bars in the correct spot. But with both hands free, and being new to chucks, just the way I do it for now. I do think using one hand would keep you from putting too much force to the chuck.

[Michael Mills]

The ones I have used have the holes offset as Doug said, so you may have to rotate the chuck some. On mine the right bar higher tightens, right bar lower loosens. Either can be done with one hand. For larger items while roughing I would install the chuck with the blank on the bed of the lathe so there was no need to try and hold it at all to get a good mating with the jaw tops against the wood.