Help with electrical for RAS

[Greg Urwiller]

OK, I just bought a Dewalt GP RAS (see other thread). Supposedly it was rewound, but never run since. There was no cord from the switch box, so the deal was made that it had to run or no deal. The wire from the motor to the switch box looks like 10/4. It's wired to the switch with black to the top post, white (marked C) to the middle post, green (marked F) to the bottom post, and red (marked GND) just hanging in the box. Right now all I've got is 12/3 with a 20A plug available since that's what my other tools use. So, how do I match this up so I can try the saw to make sure it runs? It's 115/230 22/11AMP so the wire I've got available should work right?? Man, I wish I new more about electrical other than plug in/hit the switch! Greg

[Rod Sheridan]

A photo of the motor nameplate, wiring diagram and your switch would be helpful.

First off red marked ground and the green wire used as a current carrying conductor are not legal, photographs would be a great help............Rod.

[Cary Falk]

Greg,
If you are going to run it on 240V then 12 gauge is fine. It is good to 20A. If you are going to run it on 120V then you need 10 gauge with a 30 amp fuse. If you are asking how to wire it then a picture would help. Didn't you mention this was 3 phase? If that is the case, you won't be able to run it untilyou get a vfd, rpc, etc. Post pictures in the other thread when you get a chance. :D

[Greg Urwiller]

This is a single phase motor. The 4 wire cord from the motor to the switch box has what looks like factory labeled wires. The black wire isn't tagged where I can see it. The white wire has the tape tag marked (C). The green wire has the tape tag marked (F). The red wire is tape tagged with (GRD). The "tape" tags look like they are original to the cable/wires. I would have thought a motor shop would probably do a rewind job and I would hope they'd know how to wire it to the switch. The switch by the way is a light switch type, only heavy duty of course. Obviously I don't know squat about electrical! I took the 12/3 I've got, and hooked wires so the black is across from the motor black, the white across from the motor green, and the green (common, right?) across from the white motor (C=common?). Flipped the switch, the saw started, tripped the breaker! Don't you just love what these guys that don't have a clue what they're doing will try?? Greg

[Cary Falk]

Normally,
Green: ground
Red: hot when using 240V system
Black:hot
White: common

In a 120/240 system, 2 of the wires are tied together to use 120v. It sounds like you only wired up 3 of the 4 wires. A picture of the switch as well as a picture of inside motor would be very helpful. Be careful before you burn up the motor.

[Greg Urwiller]

Something just doesn't look right the way they've got things marked. By the way, I took the spec plate off the motor and inside is the diagram for low/high voltage. I assume (yea, I know!) that low IS 110 and high IS 240?

[Cary Falk]

I assume (yea, I know!) that low IS 110 and high IS 240?
Yes.........

[ray hampton]

Something just doesn't look right the way they've got things marked. By the way, I took the spec plate off the motor and inside is the diagram for low/high voltage. I assume (yea, I know!) that low IS 110 and high IS 240?

OKAY, when you remove the motor plate , DO YOU think that the wiring is connect the right way ? the green wire are suppose to be the ground wire alway and forever more

[david brum]

Here are couple of diagrams which might help:

[Greg Urwiller]

OK, I'll try a pic

225331

The red wire is just sticking thru the box, goes to nothing. The black wire on the top connection is unmarked. You can see the "C" marked on the center (white) wire. The bottom wire is green (can't tell on the pic), you can't see the tag but it's marked with an "F". So if, according to David's diagram, the red should be ground, as marked, then can I just hook that to a box screw? If I use my 12/3 wire, how would I match up wires to the switch?

By the way, thanks to everyone for your help and especially your patience. I greatly appreciate everything!! This is a perfect example why I like SMC. Greg

[Mark Ashmeade]

That's 3 phase. L1, L2, L3 give the game away.

[Greg Urwiller]

The motor spec plate says "single phase capacitor motor". It also lists volts as 115/230, amps 22/11. Inside the plate, there's a diagram for low or high voltage.

[lloyd anderson]

Greg

Best to meander over to www.owwm.org (http://www.owwm.org) and join the site. Post your question on the electrical forumn. There are some pretty sharp electrical folks there.

Also you might want go here http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/main.asp?webtag=woodbutcher&nav=start&prettyurl=%2Fwoodbutcher%2Fstart. This site is dediacted to Dewalt RAS's. There is a lot of RAS experience on both sites.

[Rod Sheridan]

Something just doesn't look right the way they've got things marked. By the way, I took the spec plate off the motor and inside is the diagram for low/high voltage. I assume (yea, I know!) that low IS 110 and high IS 240?

Greg, please post the wiring diagram, and indicate whether you want to run the saw at 120 volts or 240 volts...........Thanks, Rod.

[Mark Ashmeade]

The motor spec plate says "single phase capacitor motor". It also lists volts as 115/230, amps 22/11. Inside the plate, there's a diagram for low or high voltage.

Speculation here, but perhaps the switch box is not original to the saw, and a 3 phase control box has been used on a single phase saw. As you say, the motor seems unequivocal. There is certainly no L3 in 240V though.

[Greg Urwiller]

I dropped it off today at the motor shop, they're going to figure it out. Thanks. Greg

[Scott Britton]

I have the same exact saw and problem. Did you ever get your wiring sorted out? How did you wire it?

[Charlie Velasquez]

Scott, post this to the Dewalt RAS forum on Delphi, registration is free, and if you own a Dewalt RAS this is probably one of the best resources on the planet.

Not a lot of regulars, but the ones that frequent it are extremely knowledgeable.
They have rewired more Dewalt motors and switches than you can shake a stick at.
They are fanatical about it. If you don't have a response in 24 hours....

As mentioned in this thread, model number, revision number and photos will be beneficial.
As an aside. I discovered through the forum that the factory wired the motor differently in different years. They have a mental database of which motors were wired how.

[Rich Riddle]

I have the same exact saw and problem. Did you ever get your wiring sorted out? How did you wire it?

Scott, the picture the original poster provided of the switch proved inconsistent with the diagrams he posted. The switch, really a three-phase motor control switch, has six terminals (three on each side of the switch). One common misunderstanding with some of those switches is that they don't control the lug directly across from them. That can be fine if you are wiring three phase since each lug will get a "hot" phase. The worst thing that can happen is that your motor runs in reverse and you simply change any of the two wires on one side of the switch. If you convert a three-phase motor control switch to use with a single-phase motor then you need to meter the lugs to ensure corresponding lugs get wired correctly.

You can run a single-phase motor (either 110 or 220) on a three-phase switch. It's a very simple process. I do it with a Powermatic band saw. The only wires you cut are the "hot wires" Those go to the switch. Pass the ground and "neutral" wire to the motor directly without going through the switch. Ground should be green, and neutral should be white. You will need to post a picture and wiring diagram in order to ensure that is true. It wasn't true with the wiring schematic the original poster provided. Most wiring proves very simple.