First Pigmented Castings

[James Combs]

Wanted to try my hand at casting pen blanks other then imbedded object style blanks(ie watch parts, feathers, etc). I reviewed several videos of various methods and molding techniques. Generally I found two different methods of molding. If I were to give them names I would call one vertical(uses PVC pipe) and the other horizontal(uses rectangular flat molds. There were others that were more or less variations of these two. To see which one worked best for me I thought I would try them both. Also there is several resins with Alumilite and Polyester being the two most popular. I wasn't interested in doing any kind of scientific study but just a first impression trial. I cut a piece of 3/4 PVC and plugged one end for a vertical trial and made a 4x5" flat mold out of some scrap UHMW I have. I poured the PVC with Alumilite dyed with blue Alumilite dye and small amount of blue pearlescent powder. Poured the flat mold with two batches of PR in a swirl pattern. Batch 1 was PR and purple pearlescent and 2 was PR and white pearlescent. I let the Alumilite cure at atmospheric pressure but placed the PR in a pressure pot at 50psi. These are the results. Most of these are the same results others have reported on the IAP forums. Again nothing scientific just my impressions.

This is the PR. Pen is a Chrome Slimline using two white painted brass tubes.
225077
PR and Flat Mold Observations:
-Slow to cure - accelerated with toaster oven
-Easy to mix and use
-Accepted the Alumilite dyes OK
-Easy material to turn, may be a little brittle but nothing dramatic
-Makes long curlies that break up by them selves
-Polishes to a brilliant glassy shine
-PR has an extreme odor
-Mold is easy see how the mixture is "swirling"
-Mold is easy to use
-Mold is rather wasteful being it makes square blanks

This is the Alumilite. Pen is a Chrome Slimline using one white brass tube(bottom) and one unpainted brass tube(top). The top looks a little brassy in person. There is just barely a hint of it in the photo.
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Faster to cure
-Easy to mix and use
-Lots of compatible dyes available
-Very easy to turn, could detect no brittle ness
-Makes "overly" long and tough curlies requiring frequent stoping and clearing.
-Does not shine up like PR. Coated it with CA to get a shine.
-Alumilite is pretty much odorless
-Mold is easy to use but not very visible
-Mold uses less resin
-Mold is one shot use with Alumilite due to no shrinkage of resin.
-Blank had many pin holes due to unpressurized curing.

Personal conclusions:
I like the PR overall results best and will probably stay with it for future projects. UMMV

[Kathy Marshall]

Very cool! My favorite would be the PR, love the colors and swirls.

[Jim Burr]

Still have about 2 gallons of PR in the shop I haven't tried Alumilite yet. Have a pot on the way so we'll see. I use Pearl ex for coloring, although mica powder from Coastal Accents is supposed to be great. I like the pink coloring, and agree that Alumilite is hard to get a shine out of. Whole new way to throw out $$, but it also allows you to custom cast a lot of stuff!

[James Combs]

Very cool! My favorite would be the PR, love the colors and swirls.
Thanks Kathy, It is the best of the two. The blue would have been nicer if it weren't for lots of bubble pockets showing on the outside.


Still have about 2 gallons of PR in the shop I haven't tried Alumilite yet. Have a pot on the way so we'll see. I use Pearl ex for coloring, although mica powder from Coastal Accents is supposed to be great. I like the pink coloring, and agree that Alumilite is hard to get a shine out of. Whole new way to throw out $$, but it also allows you to custom cast a lot of stuff!
The Alumilite I used was the "water clear", most of the regular casters on the IAP recommend the standard clear. My next Alumilite trial will be the standard when ever I finally use up the quart of wc I have.
I have a few bottles of pearlex powders from Hobby Lobby but have been reviewing the ones at Coastal. My next ones will probably come from them and will include some of there opaque powders as well. They have a much better selection and their prices on average are about the same as HL.
"Whole new way to throw out $$", sure agree with that.

[Jim Burr]

Ha!!! It really is...PR and the like isn't cheap, even with the 50% off coupon from Michaels! Molds, coloring agent, watch parts, worthless wood...it's scary! A guy on IAP said wood pens were considered cheap and casting was the way to go...he got bashed big time!! They are both great fun and both have markets!

[Bernie Weishapl]

James those look nice. Well done.

[James Combs]

Ha!!! It really is...PR and the like isn't cheap, even with the 50% off coupon from Michaels! Molds, coloring agent, watch parts, worthless wood...it's scary! A guy on IAP said wood pens were considered cheap and casting was the way to go...he got bashed big time!! They are both great fun and both have markets!
Yeap, its another money sucking vortex inside the Turning vortex.;) But what the heck you gots to do what you gots to do.:rolleyes:


James those look nice. Well done.
Thanks Bernie, the photos help a whole lot especially for the blue one. I is full of tiny pits from air bubbles and the top is brassy and... well it will be a carry pen.

[Dan Forman]

Both look good from here!

Dan

[Andrew Kertesz]

Hi James,

Nice looking pens! I used to cast my own as well. I used the PR from Michael's as well as buying the Pearl-Ex powders there. If you are using PR save yourself some money and use acrylic Testor's model paint for tinting/coloring the PR. I used the vertical method and PVC for casting, spray the inside of the tubes with PAM cooking spray for a mold release. Use a clip-on reflector light for heat to help cure. I made a simple stand for the tubes out of 2x drilled using a forstner bit and poured ten at a time. Alumilite usually requires either pressure or vacuum to avoid the air bubbles.

[James Combs]

Hi James,

Nice looking pens! I used to cast my own as well. I used the PR from Michael's as well as buying the Pearl-Ex powders there. If you are using PR save yourself some money and use acrylic Testor's model paint for tinting/coloring the PR. I used the vertical method and PVC for casting, spray the inside of the tubes with PAM cooking spray for a mold release. Use a clip-on reflector light for heat to help cure. I made a simple stand for the tubes out of 2x drilled using a forstner bit and poured ten at a time. Alumilite usually requires either pressure or vacuum to avoid the air bubbles.

Thanks Andrew, my observations from this little experiment confirmed pretty much what you say. I have read of the use of the Testor's paint used as a tint and had been planning on giving it a try but sometimes my memory fails me when in the store:o. I have a problem with the vertical method using PVC because I can't see what is going on. However, there are some guys over on the IAP using what is refereed to as "giant test tubes" or "baby soda bottles"(basically one liter soda bottle blanks), something like that I might like. I am going to try something similar and use a couple of my clear plastic pen packaging/display tubes and see how I like it.