Cutting T-track

[Dick Holt]

How do you guys cut T-track? I have been using a hack saw with less than stellar results. I couldn't cut a straight line if my life depended on it. I know aluminum can be cut with a carbide blade, but I can't bring myself to risk ruining a good blade. Do you use a table saw or miter saw? If a table saw, what type of blade do you use? Thanks for your help.

Dick

[John Gregory]

If the end is a bit crooked, touch it up on a disk sander, holding square to the disk. Draw a pencil line around the track to follow with the hack saw. Just some thoughts!

[Cary Falk]

I cut Aluminum on the table saw all the time. I just put the blade that came with the saw on to cut it so I don't dull my good one. It is just a 40-50 tooth combo blade I think.

[Jamie Buxton]

For cutting aluminum, you can use a table saw or a chop saw. There are carbide blades specifically designed for cutting non-ferrous metals. They have a high tooth count and a negative chip angle. Mine works very well. They're in the same price area as woodcutting blades -- $40 for a 7" blade, $60 for a 10" or 12" blade.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Dick - I used a hacksaw, but cobbled together a small jig to hold the piece and guide the blade. I think it was just a (flattened) 2x4; I secured small strips on either side of the track, and attached another section of strips butted to the first ones with just a small gap in between for the blade. This guided the blade nice and straight.

I did also end up touching it up on my disc sander to smooth it, so maybe the jig is unnecessary if you don't mind sanding it down to the line.

[Brody Goodwine]

I understand your concerns. I have used a miter box with good results, but everything I have read would lead me to believe using my miter saw is fine.

[Thad McCulloch]

Usually my miter saw with carbide woodworking blade, but I've also used the tablesaw on occasion. Works fine. Just wear eye protection so you don't risk getting any of those tiny bits of aluminum in your eye (haven't had any, but I'm guessing they'd be more painful than the equivalent wood shard).

[Kevin Presutti]

I would suggest a miter or scms with the highest tooth count blade you have that is older in need of sharpening but not totally dull, and put some bees wax on the blade (toilet gasket wax works great about a dollar). Cut slowly with the back side up preferably. I have cut miles of aluminum Style Mark trim, hospital fixtures etc. and it cuts clean and the wax lubes the blade. The most important part is putting the saw blade through the material slowly so the blade is cutting minimal material and not digging into the material. May not even have to dress it with a file if the blade is sharp enough and and your feed speed allows the blade to cut rather than dig. Oh and I suggest hearing and eye protection as well.

[glenn bradley]

Tablesaw with a back board or on the sled.

[Sam Murdoch]

I have used a miter saw with a carbide blade numerous times for crosscutting various extruded aluminum or soft metal profiles or flat stock. I admit that it always makes me a little nervous. The tendency of the blade is to pull up any open edge of the profile. When cutting flat stock I always set it under a sacrificial piece of wood stock, ply etc. When cutting profiles like an I beam section I add a filler of wood (pretty tightly) to the open section of the profile to support the extrusions. For an L angle no need but I add a piece of wood anyway to give more solid surface to hold on to and the wood minimizes the flying metal and just makes me feel more in control. Maybe hyper vigilant but in my shop - no :eek: allowed. :)

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I would suggest a miter or scms with the highest tooth count blade you have that is older in need of sharpening but not totally dull, and put some bees wax on the blade (toilet gasket wax works great about a dollar). Cut slowly with the back side up preferably. I have cut miles of aluminum Style Mark trim, hospital fixtures etc. and it cuts clean and the wax lubes the blade. The most important part is putting the saw blade through the material slowly so the blade is cutting minimal material and not digging into the material. May not even have to dress it with a file if the blade is sharp enough and and your feed speed allows the blade to cut rather than dig. Oh and I suggest hearing and eye protection as well.

This is what I do, also use a triple chip instead of an ATB. And it is very loud.

[Troy Turner]

Would a metal cutting wheel not work on aluminum? I used one of these to do some work on some metal siding. It was like cutting butter. Would it fit on a miter saw?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/dewalt-reg-diamond-drive-metal-cutting-blade-7-in-x-1-8-in-x-5-8-in--3821706

[Michael Peet]

I have cut Rockler track a number of times with my SCMS, stock blade and everything. It's not my favorite thing to do, but it works pretty well nonetheless.

Mike

[ray hampton]

Would a metal cutting wheel not work on aluminum? I used one of these to do some work on some metal siding. It was like cutting butter. Would it fit on a miter saw?



http://www.tractorsupply.com/dewalt-reg-diamond-drive-metal-cutting-blade-7-in-x-1-8-in-x-5-8-in--3821706

If you use this to cut aluminum I would be careful and check the wheel for a build-up of aluminum on the wheel, a build-up will cause sheet metal to bend quickly away from the wheel, it do not cut but grinds its way thru. the metal, they sell a saw that use a friction blade which work the same way that a miter saw do

[fRED mCnEILL]

I cut a LOT of Aluminum extrusion on my SCMS. Important for me is to back it up solidly and uses a hold down(its much easier on the fingers-don't ask me how I know)

[Jerome Stanek]

I cut a lot with my miter saw normal blade wax the blade will help.

[Ronald Blue]

The abrasive blade such as linked to Tractor Supply will not give very satisfactory results in a soft non ferrous metal like aluminum. The softness of it will cause it to rub rather then break down exposing new cutting surface and as was mentioned will load up. It will not be pretty. I have cut aluminum just using my standard carbide blade on the ras and had good results. As has been mentioned, use good eye protection and beware that the cut shavings will be sharp. Good luck with whatever tool you choose to use and more importantly be safe.

[Troy Turner]

Would a metal cutting wheel not work on aluminum? I used one of these to do some work on some metal siding. It was like cutting butter. Would it fit on a miter saw?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/dewalt-reg-diamond-drive-metal-cutting-blade-7-in-x-1-8-in-x-5-8-in--3821706

*note to self: Do not use this to cut aluminum.

Didn't know about the dangers. Thanks for pointing them out. I have an old blade that's getting to be on it's last tooth...guess I'll keep it around for some t-track :D

[Rich Engelhardt]

Would a metal cutting wheel not work on aluminum?
I see you got your answer - which is no...
I googled cutting aluminum a while back thinking one of those metal cutting blades would be he best thing to use.

As mentioned above, they load up instantly and quit cutting.

General recommendation on the web is to use a carbide blade in a CMS and go slow.
That's what I do and it works great.

[Guy Belleman]

By the time I ponder whether to cut the aluminum t-track on any of the saws, I already have it done with the hacksaw and touched up with the file.

[Rick Potter]

I have used my 12" chop saw with a 100 tooth blade several times, even cut down the Unifence with it. Never noticed any difference in cut. Same blade I have used for a couple years. Go slow.

Rick Potter

[jason thigpen]

i use my bandsaw to cut aluminum and brass all of the time. i use a cheap 3/16" blade that i only use on metal. works great!

[Carl Beckett]

By the time I ponder whether to cut the aluminum t-track on any of the saws, I already have it done with the hacksaw and touched up with the file.


+1 File works great to square it up, remove burrs on the edges, etc. Doesnt heat up the way a disc sander does....

[david brum]

i use my bandsaw to cut aluminum and brass all of the time. i use a cheap 3/16" blade that i only use on metal. works great!

+1 on the band saw. I use the crappy stock blade that came with my saw for just this purpose. It works great.

[ray hampton]

I use a sawall [a hack saw with a motor ] to cut flat stock but the round metal get chuck in the lathe and I take a hack saw to it while the lathe do the hard work, if the lathe can spin it , you can saw wood while the lathe turn it

[Russ D Wood]

I used a hacksaw and small miter box. I cut things just a little on the long side and then disc sand them to final size. Biggest single issue when cutting track (other than safety glasses) is to make sure you have the internals of the track really clean and smooth. The intersections are a giant pain because of all the little angled pieces but fortunately you don't have to cut them but you do have to make sure they are mounted securely and have good clean edges as well. The track is designed to be screwed down but I put a very thin coat of silicone seal on the back side to make it stick even if the screws become a little loose. So far it has worked out well. Russ

225099

225100

[Bill White]

Hacksaw for me. Then, a file to dress. I'm not makin' jewelry.
An end mill would be the extreme answer, but .............
Bill

[Mike Cutler]

I bought my DeWalt 705 many years ago expressly for cutting the aluminum extrusions for a shower surround. Since then I've cut a few pieces of T-Track also.
I used a 120 tooth carbide blade, which I still have , and it worked like a champ.

As for the abrasive blade available at Tractor Supply; It will work great, but once it's used for a non ferrous metal, it needs to remain dedicated for non ferrous metals. If you use the same the blade on ferrous metals, there is a chance that the carbon steel particles can ignite the aluminum particles that are embedded in the abrasive wheel. The OSHA videos are pretty cool, sort of like a mini fireworks display at the bench.

[Ron Natalie]

I use the power miter saw and smooth the end with a flap disk that's almost always the only thing mounted in my Dewalt battery powered angle grinder.
I've also been known to just do quick cuts on the band saw.

[Shawn Pixley]

Mark carefully. Cut with hacksaw. Dress with a file. Works like a charm

[Rick Lizek]

As a Metalsmith I cut lots of non-ferrous on the table saw, radial arm saw and miter saw. A 60 tooth, negative hook triple chip is designed to cut aluminum, brass, zinc and any non-ferrous metal and leaves a nice clean finish.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I would just add that, if you go with a power saw - table saw or CMS - turn off the dust collection. You don't want hot aluminum chips in the sawdust.

[Curt Harms]

I made my own aluminum router plate. Bought a couple $2-on-sale Irwin 7 1/4" blades figuring I'd destroy at least one. Nope, worked fine except for lots of silvery chips and the first blade still cuts like new. I vacuumed the cab saw before and left the dust collector off. Routing the bit opening and insert rabbet now, I'm glad the dust collection on the new style Porter Cable plunge base works pretty good, that would have been a mess :).

[Ron Natalie]

I would just add that, if you go with a power saw - table saw or CMS - turn off the dust collection. You don't want hot aluminum chips in the sawdust.

And if you have a sawstop, don't forget to put it in hotdog mode.