Wellsaw V20 Bandsaw Rebuild.

[Scott Gibbons]

I posted about this saw back in 2010 when I was working on getting it home. In between getting the saw home and moving to a new home the project has sat for some time now and I am finally digging back in. I have finally removed all of the sheet metal and I plan on having it sand blasted and repainted. Next week I will order the FM50 VFD and I need to replace the belt. I know Van has rebuilt has fair share of Bandsaws and I would love to hear any recommendations from someone who has done something like this before.

Here is how I got the saw home: (Awful color)
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=182176&d=1297386940

Here is the sheet metal:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=224846&d=1330032956

Here is the frame:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=224845&d=1330032948

[Van Huskey]

Interesting saw, having not dealt with many metal cutting saws the internal frame is new to me, all my steel saws have had the exterior steel as a stressed member, but it makes no difference.

The saw appears in good shape and the cosmetic overhaul will go a long way to making you smile.

The first thing I would look at is the wheel bearings condition, my guess is they will actually be in good shape and won't need any help.

You already plan to replace the belt.

Next would be tire condition and whether they need replacing.

Then I would get it all assembled and make sure the table and all the adjustments are working correctly.

The main issue for you will be the electrical but by using a VFD it is pretty straight forward, just wiring the motor directly to the VFD and setting up the main switch and any micro-switches to control the motor through the VFD, not necessary but I imagine you will want to do it. Mounting the VFD will also be a small project which you can make easy or as complicated as you desire.

The final issue will be guides and what if anything you do with them will depend on how you plan to use the saw. If you plan to use it mainly for resawing then the guides on it will probably be fine, if you plan to use narrow blades on occasion then you may need to investigate changing or modifying the guides.

I think in the end you will have a fine saw without a lot of money spent.

[Mike Cruz]

I second everything Van just said...except that you will dump a LOT of money into your saw. It is what we restorers do!;)

[Scott Gibbons]

With exception to the color scheme the saw is in excellent condition. The company I worked for only used it to cut plastic fuel tanks and it does not seem like it has seen much use. The tires appear to be in really good shape, and the bearing seem good as well. The table seems to need the most attention, I going to start soaking it in some rust remover to see if I can get it cleaned up. I thought about building a new top similar to a router table but I have not decided yet. Wow was that table heavy!

I plan in installing the VFD where the blade welder would have gone and bring the wiring through that space. I would like to somehow keep the on/off and the EStop but I do not see how that is possible with the VFD.

I have a spare Incra LS that I plan on using for a fence and I am looking for a good set of casters because I would like to be able to move it if necessary.

I won the saw on a silent auction for $500.00. I called well saw, it was built in 2006 and sold for $10,000 so I think I got a pretty good deal. I figure I will spend another $750.00 to get it up to par.

[Mike Cruz]

Well, if it is a $10,000 saw, you could spend another $7,500 and still be fine! I was figuring that you would be about $1,200 in...that's what I was with my Delta 20" BS. Great snag. And best of luck with the rebuild.

[Scott Gibbons]

Thanks Mike!
LOL as true as that may be, I am not sure my wife would agree with the logic! LOL :D

[Van Huskey]

VFDs have low voltage circuits you can wire on-off switches through so this may effect your ability to use some magnetic switches but in a general sense it is doable.

I was just thinking how slow you would be able to get the blade to move, with both the VFD and reeves drive, easily under 5 feet per minute!

[Scott Gibbons]

Thanks Van,
Do you know if the FM50 I am looking at has the capability to wire in the switches? The speed selection uses a reeves drive so I am assuming that I can do away with all of the internal electronics. Is that a correct assumption? VFD's are new for me.

[Van Huskey]

Thanks Van,
Do you know if the FM50 I am looking at has the capability to wire in the switches? The speed selection uses a reeves drive so I am assuming that I can do away with all of the internal electronics. Is that a correct assumption? VFD's are new for me.

Yes that Teco allows such finctions, AFAIK all the VFDs we would consider do. You will almost HAVE to do away with the internal electronics unless there is something you want to wire through the VFD's low voltage circuits since the motor should be hardwired directly to the VFD since any break between the VFD and load can cause the VFD to self destruct. You can find the wiring diagrams and manual online for the FM50 BUT the paper and thus the PFD manual leaves out many of the important steps for wiring on-off-reverse switches out, it is available on the CD-ROM that is included with the drive and MAY be available somewhere on the net. For the VFD side of things you may want to become a member at OWWM even though this is not consider a old wood (or metal) working machine so specific discussion of your saw is not allowed there (unless it has been built longer than I think) the "All things electrica"l forum allows discussion of modern VFDs since they are used by many to run OWWM. There is much more VFD knowledge there as well as on Practical Machinist. The only issue I see with the on-off switch you have is it is probably magnetic and the low voltage may not run it properly so you may have to replace it with a more simple switch. Again that is for the people that have dealt with this issue.