Compressor Question

[Scott Donley]

After a week of trying to find the air leak in my compressor using soapy water I took some pliers and gave the drain valve an extra twist. It worked :D My question is, should I drain the oil before turning the compressor on it side ? It is a 30 gallon oil lubed. I will be replacing the valve. Thanks

[Scott T Smith]

After a week of trying to find the air leak in my compressor using soapy water I took some pliers and gave the drain valve an extra twist. It worked :D My question is, should I drain the oil before turning the compressor on it side ? It is a 30 gallon oil lubed. I will be replacing the valve. Thanks

Scott, it's probably going to leak out of the vents when you turn it on it's side. If you haven't changed the oil in your compressor recently, why don't you simply do an oil change on it at the same time? Northern Tool sells the Ingersol Rand compressor oil (it's a special, non-detergent oil), and many automotive parts houses can get it as well.

[Scott Donley]

Scott, it's probably going to leak out of the vents when you turn it on it's side. If you haven't changed the oil in your compressor recently, why don't you simply do an oil change on it at the same time? Northern Tool sells the Ingersol Rand compressor oil (it's a special, non-detergent oil), and many automotive parts houses can get it as well. Thanks, and I did just change the oil last month, That is where this all started !

[david brum]

Since you're going to replace the drain valve anyway, you might be interested in an idea that I "borrowed" from a garage forum. Since it's important to drain the tank often, especially if spraying or using air tools, making the drain more accessible is good. I used a 90 degree elbow threaded into the tank, then attached a few feet of compressor hose with a stopcock on the end. I find that I drain the compressor much more often, since it's pretty painless.

[Bob Wingard]

Is it absolutely necessary to turn it on it's side to change the valve ??? If so, drain & save as much oil as you can and have at it. Also, consider an automatic drain like the Wilkerson ... it pops open for a few seconds every time the pump shuts off, and at other times when the internal pressure changes by a preset amount. They are great, but, if you have a pretty dirty or sludged up tank, they can get clogged up and need frequent (but easy) cleaning until the gunk is all drained.

[Scott T Smith]

Is it absolutely necessary to turn it on it's side to change the valve ??? If so, drain & save as much oil as you can and have at it. Also, consider an automatic drain like the Wilkerson ... it pops open for a few seconds every time the pump shuts off, and at other times when the internal pressure changes by a preset amount. They are great, but, if you have a pretty dirty or sludged up tank, they can get clogged up and need frequent (but easy) cleaning until the gunk is all drained.

+1. I have a Wilkerson automatic drain valve on my compressor and like it a lot. I also plumbed in a manual drain ala David Brum's suggestion, except that I used galvanized pipe instead of compressor hose. McMaster sells them for around fifty bucks. Many SMC members have also praised the Harbor Freight version that sells for a lot less $.

You can probably just tilt the compressor in order to gain adequate clearance, or block it up on 6 x 6's or something for clearance, reducing the need to lay it all of the way over. Be careful - these things can be top heavy.

[Rick Moyer]

Since you're going to replace the drain valve anyway, you might be interested in an idea that I "borrowed" from a garage forum. Since it's important to drain the tank often, especially if spraying or using air tools, making the drain more accessible is good. I used a 90 degree elbow threaded into the tank, then attached a few feet of compressor hose with a stopcock on the end. I find that I drain the compressor much more often, since it's pretty painless.
+1 on the elbow. I used a pc of copper and attached a ball valve to the end where it comes out from the edge of the compressor.

[Curt Harms]

+1 on the elbow. I used a pc of copper and attached a ball valve to the end where it comes out from the edge of the compressor.

Exactly. Ball valves seem SO much better than those silly drains plus you have a place for a little water to sit beside in the tank. A 1/4" street ell screwed into the drain port, 1/4" nipple screwed into the street ell and 1/4" ball valve on the other end of the nipple works great for me. I located mine so that it's kind of protected by the feet but the ball valve is still easily accessible.

[John McClanahan]

I used an elbow and hose for my drain valve extension. I wanted it to be flexible, so if it gets bumped, it won't start leaking.

[Scott Donley]

Exactly. Ball valves seem SO much better than those silly drains plus you have a place for a little water to sit beside in the tank. A 1/4" street ell screwed into the drain port, 1/4" nipple screwed into the street ell and 1/4" ball valve on the other end of the nipple works great for me. I located mine so that it's kind of protected by the feet but the ball valve is still easily accessible.Thanks to all ! Curt, that is exactly what I was planning on doing. Any Idea of the thread size of the ell going into the tank so I can get the parts before taking the old one out ? Seems as though most tanks in the 25 to 30 gallon tanks might be the same. Again thanks

[Scott T Smith]

Most compressors use 1/4" pipe thread; a few use 3/8" pipe thread for the drain cocks.