Old Unisaw ID and worth the trip?

[Walter Cleeson]

Guys,

I have been presented with an opportunity to pick up the pictured Unisaw for free, provided I make the 1800 mile round trip. At his point I don't have a model number or know what type of motor it has. I haven't been able to ID it from other pictures I have found on the Internet or OWWM. The power switch and motor look different than what I have seen. As best as I can determine it is a 40's or 50's model. My shop does not even have 220v, much less 3 phase so I would need it to be one that could be wired to run off of 110 or replace the motor. I currently have a Bosch 4000, so this would be an upgrade assuming it is useable. The person offering it is not the previous owner so he doesn't know a lot about it's condition. He was forced to take it as part of an "all or nothing" deal for some other tools. I don't mind spending some time and effort restoring the top and exterior, but having to replace the motor and several internal parts would be a budget issue, at least right now. I am estimating the gas for this trip alone would be around $400, unless I wait two weeks then it might be $500.:)

I don't believe this is located where it can be powered up and tested. If I made the trip I would also be able to offset the expense somewhat by earning some money as it would be a working trip. I guess after all that rambling I have two questions -
1. Does anyone have a guess as to the model number and type of motor? I am hoping he can dig that info up for me. I think he has to travel a bit to get to it.
2. If I get this thing home and determine I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars making it work (if it takes that), could I sell it "as is" for a few hundred to recoup my gas money? Not a lot of these for sale in my area so I don't really have an idea what it's worth.


Thanks,
Walter

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[Matt Day]

That's a tough call, and a long drive to find more information about it. Based on the amount of rust on the top I would bet the insides might take some work too to get it into a user, but who knows really. I can't help you on identifying it, but if anyone could based on the pics it would be the guys at OWWM.

You might be able to find a SMC'er to check it out for you to get more information about it. Or of course if you don't want to make the drive, you surely could find an SMC'er who will take it! Like me if it's in NE Ohio! :)

If it does need a bunch of work you don't want to do, you could get a couple hundred from the right buyer I would think. You're not going to get your time back though! :)

[Chris Rosenberger]

That Unisaw originally had an oval motor opening. That opening has been enlarged quite a bit & not very well done. The motor looks strange, is not an original Unisaw motor. It kind of looks like a standard motor that was adapted to fit the saw.

[Homer Faucett]

It looks like a 1950's Unisaw to me, just based on the location where the serial number badge used to be on that saw (it has been removed, so no sense in sending the guy to get that info), the fence, and the enlarged motor opening. There's really no telling the condition of the inside of the saw based upon the pics, and I would bet money that this saw will not run on 110V, single phase. You'll need a new motor for that if you want 110V plug and play, and I have no idea what kind of motor mount has been rigged up on this one.

However, I would dare say that if you found this not to be your cup of tea, you could part it out and more than make your gas money for it. That will be much easier than trying to sell the whole thing locally. DAMHIKT.

The handwheels on that are real lookers if you shine the nickel plating up with some polish.

[Ray Newman]

Considering the number of negatives that you posted -- long and expesnive vehicle trip, no 220 power in your shop, possibility of being able to run before buying, etc. -- I would walk away from it. Sometimes, even something for free costs money.

[Cary Falk]

Some thoughts from someone that has BTDT. You will want to replace the fence with something useful. This can range from $160 Delta T2 t a $450 Beisemeyer or Incra. The front height lock knoe is missint. The old short ones are harder to find. If it is a newer loing one, they are a little easier. The motor may be 3 phase. If it is you either need a new motor($350) or a VFD($150). Figure in cost of paint and cleaning supplies which can creep up there if you are not paying attention. You will want to rewire it wit new wire and plug.. By the you are done you have a outdated saw withoug a riving knife and good dust collection for the price of one that does. Plus you are out a month of weekends of you time. If you are into that of thing then go for it. Mine was a great learning experience but if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't

[Jeff Duncan]

I don't know where you live, but that's an incredibly long trip for a fairly common machine. I personally wouldn't drive 100 miles for a saw like that if it was free, but that's just me and I hate wasting time driving when I could be doing other things.

I don't know enough details to give really good advice here....you say you may make money while on the trip so that will effect the overall situation. That aside I think your best case scenario is that you get it and spend a few hundred to get it up to snuff. As long as you don't include any value for your time you may make out alright. If it's a clunker you may indeed recoup some of your gas money for the parts.....but not likely all of it. Again assuming you don't put any value on what your time is worth.

So I guess it comes to how much, or how little you value your time? I don't mind spending a little time fixing up a machine for my own use. I actually enjoy spending time getting my machines dialed in nicely. I cannot be bothered wasting my time fixing or dismantling something to try and re-sell, unless I'm going to recoup something for my time. So you just have to decide if you want to invest your time in this venture?

good luck,
JeffD

[Jerome Hanby]

If you figure 30 cents a mile to go get it and you pack all your meals with you, that's a $540 free saw. That places zero value on your time and probably woefully underestimates the actual cost per mile. My $350 Unisaw was in much better shape, was already single phase, and was much closer. Even after breakfast and a BBQ stop on the way home through Athens I was about $100 below that $540. Unless there is some added value to driving out there, I'd give this one a pass and haunt your surrounding area CLs.

[Walter Cleeson]

Wow thanks guys for all the input. He did check again and the motor says 110/220 so at least it should be able to be wired for 110 and it supposedly runs. Model# tag is missing as Homer suggested. I am still on the fence but leaning no. I was not looking for a Unisaw or any saw for that matter. It just fell into his lap and he offered it to me because he didn't want it. I am not a skilled restorer by any means, and not looking forward to weeks and weeks of weekends restoring it.
He works for a client of mine so the trip would be combined pleasure/business and if I can get his company to pay for the travel as well as a couple of days work I may at least puts hands on it to get a better idea how bad it is. If it's horrible, I will just leave it. (It's in NC BTW).
I do have concerns about the fence as well (thanks Cary) and lack of riving knife or the possibility of adding one. Then there's the loading and unloading of a 400 or 500lb saw and keeping it secure and dry on the way back. Not to mention the wife factor.:D Every time I have the pointer set on NO, he goads me a bit more.

I appreciate the advice and information. I will have to mull it over a bit more.

Thanks one and all.

-Walter

[Cary Falk]

Walter,
If they pick up the tab for the trip and it is free, by all means part it out and put the money towards a better saw. It could take awhile ans some work but you could probably get $400 in parts out of it. Taking off the wings, top, fence and motor off it is pretty easily moved by one person. It can be flipped/rolled into the back of a truck. I wouldn't worry about kepping it dry, I think the large layer of rust will protect it.:D

[Jerome Hanby]

If someone else pay for the trip, I'd say go for it. Old Unisaw rebuilds can be fun and you end up with a classy machine that will outlive you!

[Michael Mayo]

Someone else paying the bill is great but if you are not very mechanically inclined then it is moot. Restoring an old machine takes a lot of talent to pull off a good restore and not break anything in the process plus if you don't have all of the required tools to perform the restore then you are going to end up spending a significant amount to have certain things done for you i.e. sandblasting, painting etc. That saw looks pretty beat and will need a ton of TLC to bring it back to it's old glory. Anything can be refurbished within reason it is just how much do you want to invest in that restoration? I am sure you cold find a much nicer saw close to you that will require much less work to get into usable condition. Just my little .02 worth.

[Homer Faucett]

Someone else paying the bill is great but if you are not very mechanically inclined then it is moot. Restoring an old machine takes a lot of talent to pull off a good restore and not break anything in the process plus if you don't have all of the required tools to perform the restore then you are going to end up spending a significant amount to have certain things done for you i.e. sandblasting, painting etc. That saw looks pretty beat and will need a ton of TLC to bring it back to it's old glory.

I've got to disagree about restoring being particularly difficult or requiring exotic tools. There are several tutorials online showing how to take apart a Unisaw. I've disassembled and reassembled two now, and I'm no mechanic. With a set of allen wrenches, pliers, a mallet, a punch, and a ratchet set, you can take one apart in an afternoon. If you want to replace the bearings, that might go beyond what some people feel comfortable with. Stripping and repainting can be done with your random orbit sander or angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel, if necessary. A little scotch brite pad work on the shafts or a soak in Dawn dishsoap and hot water takes off years of crud pretty well. Rustoleum rattle can paint works great.

I took one from rough to nice in three hours with a friend one Sunday afternoon, and we invested maybe $15 in materials.

Here it is . . . it looked almost as bad as the one in your pic when I picked it up at auction for $180. The motor was wired improperly, and that took about an hour to figure out and fix (old fabric wire covers lose their color over the course of 70 years). This one was made in 1940, according to the Serial number.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f10/hfaucett/photobucket-515-1317850081093.jpg

[Carroll Courtney]

I've never use a Bosch TS before so I just can't imagine it being anything close to a 40's vintage unisaw.I have restored 3 unisaw in yrs pass(working on the forth) and each one had its little challenges but nothing that could not be fix.What I'm getting at is there is nothing in its class,once you give it a try you will wonder why use a Bosch.----Carroll

[Jim Andrew]

Just a few years ago, a Uni was one of the best cabinetsaws you could buy, at least reasonably priced. Not saying it is close to an Oliver, but my saw with a Biesmeyer fence, is near the best I've ever used, and I have sawed on an Oliver. Can't imagine a Bosch coming close. An old Uni is worth cleaning up and a new fence. The old fence wasn't bad, but not comparable to a bies. When your saw is dialed in correctly, the fence is lined up with the blade, and you have a italian blade on it, near bliss.

[Walter Cleeson]

Sorry for not posting back. Been traveling. Still trying to work the deal so that the saw is just a free gift for traveling up there to work. If I kick the tires while I am there and it seems reasonable to get by with just some de-rusting and general clean up I may take a chance on it. But as many have suggested, I don't think I would drive that far and back with no compensation and if it doesn't run or adjust properly , or the fence is useless I may have to leave it. It's good to know the existing rust will protect it Cary. :D

I'll let you guys know how it works out. Thanks again.