Making a router template

[Michael Mayo]

I made a Rocket Launcher Fishing Rod holder for a friend of mine to mount in his boat. It is a fishing rod holder with an accessory tray attached to the rear to hold misc. fishing stuff. These sell for over $1,000 and I made it for less than $300. So now he wants me to build several of these to put up for sale on a couple of fishing sites we visit. I want to make two templates one for the curved piece and one for the tray. Now I know there are two different ways of going about using one of these. The first would be to cut out the shape in MDF and use the router with a bushing to follow the shape around the inside of the template cutout. I prefer this method as it seems it would be more accurate but you have to take into account the offset of the bushing which adds some complexity for me. If I choose to do it this way how do I initially cutout the template to include the bushing offset so that I cutout a part that is the proper size? The second thing I have read about is to trace out the shape on MDF and rough cut it with the bandsaw then use a template bit with a bearing to get the proper size cutout. The problem with this technique is that the original parts have bullnose round over edges so running the patterning bit with the bearing could be problematic. So what say you Creekers how do I do this?

Here is the original finished rod holder

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7016/6600470689_66e9305686_b.jpg

And here is a Sketchup picture of the shape i will use to make the template with

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6907105571_787fe37a2b_b.jpg

I will use the original tray to trace out the template to cut for it. These are made using King Starboard which is a high tech polymer/plastic material that cost a fortune so doing these once is really mandatory as I cannot afford to screw up the stock cutting it. So I will be taking extra time to make the templates perfect before using them.

[John A langley]

Michael - Why not make your template out of something harder that MDF that will last, like a scrap piece of solid surface, and use a shaper with a bullnose cutter and a bearing to follow the template. You could fasten the template to the bottom your piece through the holes you are going to cut for your chrome fishing pole holders. Another thought would be to find somebody in your area with a CNC. It probably would not take them to long to put it in the computer and cut your parts. These are just two thoughts at 9:45 on Sunday night.

[Michael Mayo]

Michael - Why not make your template out of something harder that MDF that will last, like a scrap piece of solid surface, and use a shaper with a bullnose cutter and a bearing to follow the template. You could fasten the template to the bottom your piece through the holes you are going to cut for your chrome fishing pole holders. Another thought would be to find somebody in your area with a CNC. It probably would not take them to long to put it in the computer and cut your parts. These are just two thoughts at 9:45 on Sunday night.

Thanks John but using a local CNC source would inject increased cost to the finished pieces and the goal is to try and make them as cheaply as possible. I have an Amana 1" bullnose bit with the special concave bearing that you use after you do the first radius so it follows the first radius in order to cut the second radius perfectly half round. Cost a lot of money but it really makes creating the 1" bullnose very easy and clenaup after the fact is much less.

[Stephen Cherry]

This has CR Onsrud inverted pin router written all over it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmad-5JIqBc

I've got the el cheapo version- the 2003. With a few pins and bits, given you already have a sample, you could produce another in no time flat. There are also some kits on the market for making a router table into a pin router.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=43038&cat=1,43000

I like the onsrud version though, it's put together for light industrial use.

[pat warner]

"If I choose to do it this way how do I initially cutout the template to include the bushing offset so that I cutout a part that is the proper size? "
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You could be in >salt water if'n you copy the guy's work and sell it.

Notwithstanding, if a collar is the guide acccessory, indeed,
undersize the templet x the offset in your collar/cutter ensemble.

[Bill Huber]

I don't see why you would need a bushing, make the template the exact size as needed. Then use a template bit, one with a bearing on it.

I like making templates for things that I am going to make more then one of. I use 1/2" MDF the most, cut it out sand it to shape. MDF sands so easy and you can make curves really nice with it.

I now double back tape the template to the wood I will use and do the cut on the band saw with a little guide on it.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18055&filter=band saw

Then on the router table I put in a bit that has a bearing on the top and the bottom, this way I can always be cutting with the grain.

Drill small holes in the template just big enough for a center punch, then while still tapped mark the holes for drilling.

[Michael Mayo]

"If I choose to do it this way how do I initially cutout the template to include the bushing offset so that I cutout a part that is the proper size? "
***************************

You could be in >salt water if'n you copy the guy's work and sell it.

Notwithstanding, if a collar is the guide acccessory, indeed,
undersize the templet x the offset in your collar/cutter ensemble.

As far as I know there is no patent on the design and he isn't the first to make one of these it is just the one my buddie went and looked at and then he came by with the pattern traced on the stock and wanted me to cut it out for him. I cut it out and then did all the rest of the work as well as I knew he didn't have any tools or knowledge to complete it anyway. Our design is different than the original one anyway so there is no problem with copying his design as it is my design.

Now wouldn't you have to oversize the template to account for the bushing offset. If you undersize it then the bushing offset will make it even smaller No? This is for tracing the inside pattern not the outside pattern by the way. If doing the outside pattern i would use my pattern bit with bearing on the top.

[Bill Huber]

Now wouldn't you have to oversize the template to account for the bushing offset. If you undersize it then the bushing offset will make it even smaller No? This is for tracing the inside pattern not the outside pattern by the way. If doing the outside pattern i would use my pattern bit with bearing on the top.

I guess I don't really understand why you would want to make an inside template, they are harder to make and get just right. Yes you are right about over-sizing the template.

[John Coloccia]

The only time I use a bushing is when I have to make deep routes and it's inconvenient to use a bearing. I would just make a template, trace the outline onto the piece, rough bandsaw it out, and clean up with the template with a bearing bit. There's really no reason to over complicate this.

Using an inside pattern is a pain in the butt because you have to be absolutely sure to keep the router pushed against the edge with absolutely no room for error...the slightest bobble will ruin the piece. I do this with the Whiteside inlay kit for certain processes, but it's stressful and difficult...one of my least favorite procedures, actually.

[Michael Mayo]

The only time I use a bushing is when I have to make deep routes and it's inconvenient to use a bearing. I would just make a template, trace the outline onto the piece, rough bandsaw it out, and clean up with the template with a bearing bit. There's really no reason to over complicate this.

Using an inside pattern is a pain in the butt because you have to be absolutely sure to keep the router pushed against the edge with absolutely no room for error...the slightest bobble will ruin the piece. I do this with the Whiteside inlay kit for certain processes, but it's stressful and difficult...one of my least favorite procedures, actually.

Thanks John that is what I was looking for some to say don't bother with the insdie route it is a PIA. So I will stick with the outside route using the bearing bit and bandsaw.

[glenn bradley]

I'm with Pat. Make your pattern to include the offset of the template guide. Chuck your bit and measure the difference of the guide edge to the cutter at the nearest points. That's your offset. Most graphics software has a way to set this offset or scale difference to your original. If that is not available, make a full sized pattern out of cardboard and trim to fit. Transfer to MDF and make a test run on some cheap material. I do a lot of free hand curves that get transferred to templates. I draw them out, cut to rough size on the bandsaw and then use a rasp and card scrapers to fair my curves on 1/4" MDF. 1/4" MDF is easy to work and stable enough to use or to act as a transfer template to heftier stuff for production runs. As you are only going to make a few to start, the 1/4" could probably be used directly. I would prefer to do this in the router table for consistency, control and above all, safety. JMHO.