PDA

View Full Version : Chinese laser purchase/Shenui/Laserworks tips and tricks thread



Rodne Gold
02-16-2012, 12:48 AM
Considering a lot of us are going or have gone that direction , I thought it a good idea to combine our knowledge pool in one thread. So I have started one. Those of you that have already posted to other threads can perhaps repeat and consolidate the posts here or at least point to other posts on the forum as links
Here's Mine
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?165815-Despatches-from-China
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?166611-Chinese-lasers-they-re-here-!!!

I have a situation where I cannot really mess with the finer points of my lasers and the software as we really are using em as workhorses and they are loaded up with jobs all day long so guys like John , Rich , George etc who are really putting em thru their paces will have invaluable info.
A good idea is to perhaps work together to explain and explain the effects of all the settings and the chinglish words.

Rich Harman
02-16-2012, 4:12 AM
Good idea for a thread.

My first tip will be to not trust the water sensor. I have had more than a couple occasions where I started a job then realized that I had not turned on the chiller. Each time I caught the mistake within a few seconds but once it was lasering away for a couple minutes without the pump operating. I paused the job for several minutes before turning the pump on and resuming to avoid any thermal shock. I doubt it would have been an issue because the tube had water in it but I decided to err on the side of caution.

Generally the water pressure sensor does do it's job but not always. I think the best fix it to make use of the output on the chiller itself instead of the pressure sensor in the machine. It's on my list of things to change.

john banks
02-16-2012, 6:16 AM
Great idea Rodney. Will collect links and post.

Rich, it may be possible depending on voltages to have both in series?

john banks
02-16-2012, 8:23 AM
Rotary: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?178104-How-to-attach-rotary-attachment-to-Shenhui-machine
3d engrave: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?175466-Can-Lasercut-vary-glass-tube-power-whilst-raster-engraving-to-give-relief-effect
My experience of setup of the machine and initial testing: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?180773-Does-RDCAM-5-Laserwork-require-a-dongle

john banks
02-16-2012, 4:51 PM
Vector speed for small details won't go substantially faster than 50mm/s even if you request much more.

Optimum raster speed for quality seems to be 400mm/s or below.

Going to 800 or even 1200mm/s might need you to change vendor settings, but beware that these higher speeds will not save time unless the job is very wide and to avoid x-slop error you must have space for acceleration and deceleration at the ends of each scan line.

Optimized scan adjusts the "interval" which I usually leave at 0.1mm to get it to match the source bitmap to avoid banding. I use 1000 DPI bitmaps, so the machine makes the just under 2% adjustment required to sample the bitmap properly.

Water temperature on the CW5000 is by default set to ambient -2C with a lower limit of 20C. I found that reducing this lower limit to 15C (read the CW5000 manual) gives a good balance of noise from the chiller and consistent performance. 10C is even better and is the sort of water temperature at which have in the morning in a workshop that has not been heated overnight, so if I set the lower limit to 10C it will keep it here and the first cut of the day is similar to the last. However, the fridge is on much more and is by far the noisiest thing in our workshop given that the compressor and exhaust are remote. Watch out for condensation. This is the basis of the 2 below ambient stock setting.

Lens installed upside down and should be convex up as shown in the manual. This has a slightly shorter focal length and is about 1.5mm closer than the supplied 9mm stick.

Air assist: 5 PSI from a 500W Koi compressor which is oil free, 100% duty and quiet seems to be enough with the stock head design even for cutting wood. The cone is closer to the work and has a smaller nozzle than some other Chinese machines and some owners of those are modifying their cones to be similar.

GaAs lens: If you ordered extra lenses they may substitute your choice (in our case 100mm) for a 38mm version of one of these. They look silver/grey and are opaque to visible light and the red dot. Some other Chinese machine users rave about the power density on these lenses. I have only tried ours briefly and not found an obvious difference, but they are supposedly more robust than the yellow ZnSe lenses.

Red dot through the mirrors: I asked for it at the head, but got it through the mirrors. I tried removing the beam combiner next to the laser tube to see if I got any more cutting power at the same speed/power and found no difference. Rodney found a 15% difference and he also reported that his red dot diode got nuked. So for me it stays for now. YMMV.

john banks
02-16-2012, 6:09 PM
Anyone know how to get the "colorbar" to appear by default but not above the work bar so that you are missing the lower parts of the work bar? I know you can double click it but it doesn't remember the settings.

Dan Hintz
02-16-2012, 6:13 PM
GaAs lens: If you ordered extra lenses they may substitute your choice (in our case 100mm) for a 38mm version of one of these. They look silver/grey and are opaque to visible light and the red dot. Some other Chinese machine users rave about the power density on these lenses. I have only tried ours briefly and not found an obvious difference, but they are supposedly more robust than the yellow ZnSe lenses.
I think it's a placebo effect for those users. GaAs lenses will be more robust to abuse, but from a power density standpoint they will have zero measurable difference in effect compared to ZnSe...

walter hofmann
02-17-2012, 5:50 AM
Hi all
I dont know if it is the right place here but I have made a pictural about setting up and squaring the 40W co2 chinese machines for a few friends and I was thinking maybe others could be interested too.
the reason was that as my machine arrived it was god did a decent job but as I did go deeper in exploring all the different settings especially for picture engraving I discovered that there must be something not exact from the machine hardware sett up.
thats where I started and my feeling was right it started with the tube who was not exactly set, then adjusting all the mirrors, squaring all the rails and the gantry.
but I had a hard time explaine all this to my buddys I made a series of picture for all what I have done like they say " a picture is more then a tousand words" and everybody got it right a way.

now the question is to post this picture series here ( thes are 26picture) or not , what do you say?

greetings
walt

Mike Null
02-17-2012, 6:37 AM
Walter

That's the purpose of this forum. It might be easier on everybody if there were notations on the pictures or some reference as to what is going on.

George M. Perzel
02-17-2012, 9:38 AM
Hi Gang;
I cut a lot of wood and the Shenhui supplied coaxial air feed did not do a great job of reducing flaring at the workpiece. I first tried plugging the hole in the head and directing the airflow directly at the workpiece using a mounting similar to the one which is supplied for the red dot. That resulted in a quick buildup of residue on the lens-unsatisfactory.
I the came up with the following scheme which provides the best of both worlds-see pic below.
An L-shaped quick connect adapter is drillede on the bottom to snugly fit a 1/8" copper tubing. The tubing is bent as shown, angle cut on the bottom, and epoxied into the hole on the connector. Air now flows both to the bottom of the lens and to the work piece.
Best Regards,
George
Laserarts

john banks
02-17-2012, 5:29 PM
I have tried the CorelDraw plug in with X5 and Win7 64. It gives a path/file error unless you run X5 as administrator or alternatively change the permissions on the Program Files (x86)\Corel\CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X5 folder to full control. I suspect Vista will be the same.

I quite like the plug in as it allows you to take a Corel Draw file and then click the icon in the toolbar and then click start which is a bit less faff than exporting as an AI file and loading into Laserwork. All the options are there and the text files can still be edited to improve the Chinglish. It appears to sort out all the layers, vector and bitmap stuff and improves workflow. Unfortunately for a high resolution screen the window is a little small though and I haven't found a way to resize it yet.

Rich Harman
02-18-2012, 12:29 AM
When you install the Corel Plugin there will be a check box named "Plug Laserwork". Checking this box will start up the full LaserWorks when you run a job from Corel, instead of bringing up the small window.

Rich Harman
02-18-2012, 2:32 AM
Anyone know how to get the "colorbar" to appear by default but not above the work bar so that you are missing the lower parts of the work bar? I know you can double click it but it doesn't remember the settings.

On one of my computers the color bar appears vertically next to the "work" panel which is nice and makes sense. On the other it appears above the work panel forcing the work panel to the bottom which cuts off the bottom buttons.

The first is XP on an old Gateway laptop. The latter is on XP running under VMWare fusion on a MacBook Pro. My guess is that it has to do with the screen resolution.

walter hofmann
02-18-2012, 5:30 AM
Hi all,
I was warned in all the foren about tolerance and quality of the chinese cheap laser, thats why I started after receiving my K40 machine right a way to check out all the very important parts for accuracy. later a few buddys of mine who had there machines
allready but had the same accuracy problemes like everybody else needed help and I try to explaine but that did not work out thats why I made a series of pictures with the steps what should be done .
and here they are.
the first section is the main part the lasertube and mirror #1 ( the one closest to the tube
the second section is all the mechanical parts and the laser beam it self on the picture is the explanation what sould be done.
greetings
walt2240582240592240602240612240622240632240642240 65

walter hofmann
02-18-2012, 5:38 AM
Hi all
something did go wrong with part 1 of my pictural because it does not show thats why I start here again
224067224066224068224069224070224071224072224073

walter hofmann
02-18-2012, 5:41 AM
Hi all here is part3 224076224075224074224077224078224079224080

john banks
02-18-2012, 2:10 PM
Thanks Walter.

Thanks Rich, that works great.

C:\Program Files (x86)\Corel\CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X5\Programs\LaserWorkV5 is the folder where LaserWork plug in is installed on my Windows 7 laptop. Unless CorelDraw X5 is run as administrator (no end of file permission altering worked) then the plug in will only start a job from the machine origin regardless of Laserwork settings and using the origin button on the machine keypad. It maybe that during installation by changing the path to a folder that isn't protected it could work. [EDIT - doesn't work, the only way around running as administrator is to install CorelDrw into a folder like C:\Corel ] Running as an administrator prompts every time CorelDraw is opened (unless you disable UAC).

The workaround is to setup a scheduled task to run CorelDraw X5 with highest privileges, and then put a shortcut to the scheduled task on the desktop. http://willmtz.blogspot.com/2011/10/how-to-force-application-to-open-in.html and of course you can change the icon so that the to the end user starting the scheduled task is seamless and instant.

Then everything seems to work great. One click into X5, and one click from X5 to Laserwork with your file sitting there. Hardly any more difficult than hitting "print" from a machine that uses a print driver, at least from Corel.

I also copied my C:\LaserWorkV5 into C:\Program Files (x86)\Corel\CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X5\Programs\ which kept all my previous settings, and I also made the shortcut to Laserwork point to this location. That keeps consistency as you only have one installation of Laserwork that is in use.

Anyone know the password in Corel to edit the Laserwork macro?

john banks
02-20-2012, 2:33 PM
The best solution for Windows Vista or 7 is I think to install Corel in C:\ and then you don't have to run Corel as administrator with all the faffing about that involves. If doing this I would not bother installing Laserwork in the C:\ either (assuming you select "plug laserwork" as Rich pointed out to get the full version), and just make a shortcut to C:\Corel\CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X5\Programs\LaserworkV5.exe to run it directly if you don't want to go through Corel. Then you will only have one copy of the LaserworkV5 folder on your machine and your settings will be easier to manage. It all appears to work as you'd hope except that the order of import into Laserworks seems to be bitmap first followed by ai which means the ai is displayed on top. This seems to happen whatever color or order your layers are in Corel or Laserwork and can as George points out make it difficult to see if the reverse happens as he reports. There seems to be no setting in Laserwork to move layers from front to back in display, of course you can reorder the layers though and in cut optimisation you can make it respect the order of the layers. It does seem that you have to click cut optimize and remove duplicates though rather than have a way to happen it automatically.

If anyone has noticed anything different please say!

Uros Sovilj
02-21-2012, 2:28 AM
Hi

When you change or install new tube DON'T forget to seal the connection cable with silicone. I didn't do that when i have changing my tube and after few days of using it suddenly i smell something is burning. I have turn of main power switch in my shop and start looking for shortcut. I found that spark was hitting the lid that closing the tube. It was on high voltage side so I could easy be fried if I have touch the machine before turning power of for whole shop. Be sure that all connection cables are well sealed and connected.
Also I have found that for cutting acrylic I get much better edges if I cut in dot mode.
For cutting I use knife table. It minimizes residue print of honeycomb. If you will use knife table you must glue or weld knifes on frame or they can move when head is accelerating.

Since i run my shop as part time job i can do some test instead of those that have machine constantly in use. Just attach the file with instruction that you are interested in.

Uros Sovilj
02-21-2012, 2:31 AM
One more thing. I discover that i can send job to machine direct from corel X5 although shenhui claim that you can only use it with corel 12.

john banks
02-21-2012, 3:34 AM
Would you silicone the RECI tube which has a cup over the high voltage end?

Anyone see loss of RECI performance after initial month? Mine is too early to tell and going great but there is mention of 120W (I see 100W and 130W being offered with my 100 claiming 115 on label) becoming 90-100W after a month, much faster degradation than cheap glass tubes. I would have thought Rodney would have commented given weekly threshold cutting tests?

john banks
02-21-2012, 3:37 AM
One more thing. I discover that i can send job to machine direct from corel X5 although shenhui claim that you can only use it with corel 12.


Is this RDCAM3?

Rodne Gold
02-21-2012, 3:54 AM
My 80w has been fine , , we use it mainly for cutting and my staff and workshop manager hasn't complained about loss of performance ertc. I don't think it's working 100% (test burn isnt a solid brown dot)but hasnt dropped in power... when it dies , I will try the replacement and see if it works any better. I use it all day long to cut 3-10mm Acrylic mainly ... does a sterling job.
Im interested in the "dotting" settings you use Uros...

Uros Sovilj
02-21-2012, 4:18 AM
@john banks: I use RD 3.0.27 . I don't have RECI so can't tell if silicone is needed.
@Rodney: for 6mm acrilic i used speed 4mm/s, power 90%, dot time 0,2, dot interval 0,02 and dot lenght 0,1. I got nice edge with shalow marks that i was able to remove with polish paste by hand in no time.

john banks
02-22-2012, 12:18 PM
I cut one of the wires to the flow sensor and added the CW5000 in series and it works well so that both the CW5000 and the machine flow sensor have to be happy to fire the laser. Thanks for the suggestion Dan and Rich.

john banks
02-22-2012, 3:26 PM
Anyone know how to tile objects in Corel like you can in Laserwork with an x by y number? Reason is that Laserwork will "bestrew" raster engraving items so that they are each individually rastered rather than doing a wide scan line to do many items at once. This isn't as fast as if you have lots of objects tiled.

Dan Hintz
02-22-2012, 4:20 PM
There's a copy/repeat function... just enter the X/Y distance to repeat and the number of copies.

Rich Harman
02-22-2012, 5:10 PM
In Corel it is called "Step and Repeat". You can fid it under the "Edit" menu.

Daniel Wolanski
02-23-2012, 11:33 AM
Water temperature on the CW5000 is by default set to ambient -2C with a lower limit of 20C. I found that reducing this lower limit to 15C (read the CW5000 manual) gives a good balance of noise from the chiller and consistent performance. 10C is even better and is the sort of water temperature at which have in the morning in a workshop that has not been heated overnight, so if I set the lower limit to 10C it will keep it here and the first cut of the day is similar to the last. However, the fridge is on much more and is by far the noisiest thing in our workshop given that the compressor and exhaust are remote. Watch out for condensation. This is the basis of the 2 below ambient stock setting.




Thanks for this tip. I watched a Youtube video on how to set the CW5000 for a constant temp. I set mine at 15 degrees. It's cool here now but in the summer this should be a bonus!

john banks
02-23-2012, 2:39 PM
My stepper motor driver has become faulty.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhGldWkT18c

It is one of the spares I did not order!

The vectoring has gone bumpy with x-axis movement, and the motor sounds rough at less than 400mm/s, and even at that speed it sounds coarse when accelerating/decelerating.

Initially after checking the belt tension and cleaning the rail, I changed the stepper motor (pig of a job for access), but it didn't help, so I switched the stepper motor driver between x and y axis, and the problem follows the faulty stepper motor driver. DIP switches are the same. Rotary is always connected to this driver when the machine is turned off.

Have asked if Shenhui will airmail another. Having quoted for our first few jobs I hope the replacement part arrives promptly, or perhaps I'll investigate a local alternative.

George M. Perzel
02-23-2012, 3:13 PM
Hi Gang;
When doing your morning checks, make sure that the head nosepiece (that which holds the lens) is firmly screwed on. Vibration, as subtle as it may be, can cause the nosepiece to loosen up-double engraving lines on the Y-axis are a symptom of this problem.
Best Regards,
George
Laserarts

Uros Sovilj
02-24-2012, 4:54 AM
Hi
Yesterday in the middle of job suddenly power of laser increase. Everything works fine just power was strange high . I was working with 19% power cardboard so current indicator shouldn't show more than 2mA but it was showing 10mA.
I tried to lower power to see the difference and on my surprise tube fire on only 2% which shouldn't do.
After few hours of checking and measuring the circuit and replacing power supply i found that problem was caused by loose connection of wire on high voltage trafo.
It was really frustrating since i wasn't able to find logical solution.
Check all connection on components to make sure that their aren't loose since it can fell of totally and get in touch with body of machine and expose you to high voltage.

Dan Hintz
02-24-2012, 6:41 AM
Check all connection on components to make sure that their aren't loose since it can fell of totally and get in touch with body of machine and expose you to high voltage.

If the case is properly grounded, the worst that should happen is a blown fuse... but it's good practice to make sure the machine is in good working order before using.

Steven Cox
02-25-2012, 7:59 PM
Hi
After few hours of checking and measuring the circuit and replacing power supply i found that problem was caused by loose connection of wire on high voltage trafo.
It was really frustrating since i wasn't able to find logical solution.


What you need is an Annode Connector for your Laser Engraver.
This is my first post to these forums and I hope you find this tip useful. One of the many problems I needed to overcome in making my Laser mobile was overcomming the Laser's Annode connection comming loose with the constant vibration of being moved from location to location. From day one of getting my laser over 2 years ago I never liked how the annode wire was connected to the laser and it always gave me problems, so I came up with my own connector and I've been using this now for nearly 2 years.


225172225173225174225175225176225177225178225179


Here's the parts you'll need:
1. An Electrical Connector Block (pic 1) There are two types, the first has the bolt come down on the wire,these can cause damage to the wire itself so don't use. The second type has a thin stainless steel flap that the bolt pushes down on the wire so this is the one to get.

2. 2 small plastic bolts (pic 3). You can get a packet of assorted bolts from a electronics shop. I can't remember the size but they are the next size down from the M4 thread type.

3. A small piece of plastic tube about 30mm long (inch & a quarter for the yanks)

4. One small cable tie

5. Some silicone

As we all know the annode connection needs to be secure and have no uninsulated metal parts or exposed wire near the annode otherwise it can cause arching inside the cabinet which can result in loss of power and or damage the laser tube. Lets face it wrapping the wire around the annode and securing it with a bit of silicone filled plastic tube is not ideal because you just can't get a permanent tight connection. This little connector only costs a few dollars to put together and makes it a simple process to connect the laser tube when needed and you'll always have a positive tight connection that won't ever arch out. Being Mobile I need to disconnect everytime so I can fit the packing it around the laser tube for transport.

Instructions:
1. Cut one bank off the connector block and wind both bolts all the way in (pic 2).

2. You need to replace the metal bolts with plastic ones. Using sidecutters cut of the plastic surrounding the bolts just above the head of the bolt (pic 4). You need to do this to be able to get the bolts out easily. When replacing the bolts do them one at a time otherwise the stainless flap will fall out and it's a bugger to get back in.

3. Make 2 slits about 3mm apart in the plastic tube about 15mm long (pic 5) and then trim off about 12mm the flap leaving about 3mm. This little flap should slide into the connector just above the wire to help insulate the metal of the connector block. (pic 8).

4. Slide the plactic tube over the annode wire.

5. Strip the annode wire back about 5mm and put it into one end of the connector block and tighten the bolt as tight as possible.

6. Slide the plastic tube back over the connector block ensuring the small plastic flap (pic 8) goes inside the wire cavity. Then secure the tube with a cable tie (pic 6).

7. Lastly and this is optional but reccommended, fill the open end of the plastic tube with and let silicone it set.

And there you have it.... a simple annode connector. When attatching the connector to the tube make sure the plastic surrounding the connector opening makes contact with the glass on the tube as this will insulate the remaining exposted metal of the connector block. I have these on both the positive & negitive annode terminals and life is soooo much easier now.

Uros Sovilj
02-26-2012, 3:49 AM
Steven. You manage to put laser in wheicle? can you share some pics and user info with us please.

Steven Cox
02-27-2012, 4:59 AM
Steven. You manage to put laser in wheicle? can you share some pics and user info with us please.

Hmmm I don't want to give away too much on the mobile thing cause at the moment I have the niche for doing this in Australia and there's been a few people who have tried to get close to my machine to see how it was done. So without giving too much away let me say this.... it's more than possible but here's a few hints:

The Laser Tube is the bigest issue, so just look how it was packed when you first got it and replicate that packing inside the machine.
Change the Tube mounts to V mounts and use some velcro to hold down the tube on the mounts instead of the rubber staps when in use.
When you pack the tube for transport make sure there's sufficient foam packing so the tube won't make contact with the mounts or anything else.
You need to realign the tube every time you set up. It used to take me about an hour each time to unpack & Align, but I've now got that down to 15 min and 5 min to pack up.
Velcro is my friend for securing the gantry and other stuff.
The machine itself is just bolted down to the floor on a layer of ruberized spagetti mat thats about 15mm thick.
Put an inline filter on the water hose to catch any dust or other crap that might get into the water supply. Remember to change it and the water about every 2 months, a car fuel filter works a treat.
Do regular checks to ensure all the bolts on the machine are tight. If any come loose put some lock tight on them.
Clean & Oil the gantry rails before each daily use - dust can be a killer!.
Venting exhaust was a bit of a problem but with some hints I picked up on these forums regarding venting I was able to build a very good portable extraction unit that clips onto the side of the canopy when in use. You can see the exhaust stack in the 1st image, this unclips from the side & is carried in the canopy. The stack has built in charcoal and hepa filters working off the standard exhaust fan. Mind up I had to move the fan from the back and mount it on the left side, but doing that actually improved the air flow.
At the end of the day remember that the machine came from China by sea and truck so packed/bolted right your vehicle will be a much smoother ride.

Its a Ford tray back utility with a standard 2.2mt x 1.8mt aluminium tray. I've built a custom canopy over the tray about 1.2mt high. The laser is mounted across the back so I work from the back, we just set up a marquay behind the vehicle, that becomes our shop and the ute is a mobile workshop.

The car is in for a service & repair but when I get it back I'll post some picks to give you a better idea. But here a couple for now....

225386225387

And if I sell it I can say..... she's Only done xxxxx km's

john banks
02-27-2012, 8:40 AM
Fanastic Steven!

Rodne Gold
02-27-2012, 9:03 AM
Amazing!!..

Khalid Nazim
02-27-2012, 12:42 PM
Wow. Fantastic!

Steven Cox
03-01-2012, 5:54 PM
Metal Engraving Deck for Templates

Here's another idea I'd like to share. When it comes to templates you could say I'm mad about them, I use templates for just about everything. Being mobile I need to keep everything as light and compact as possible so 90% of my templates are made from 600GSM Artboard the rest from MDF. The Art board it's quick to cut, very light, dirt cheap, takes up little to no space and above all very fast to change from one template to the next on what I call my Engraving Deck.

I spent a bit of time setting up a permanently fixed left hand platen strip on the Laser Table about 30mm to the left of the Laser Head default Top Left position (home). The strip is just a bit of aluminium angle and makes it quick & eazy to align all my accessories like the Engraving Deck, Rotary device etc... The Engraving Deck is a small sheet of white Color Bond metal. The metal is important because I use Rare Earth magnets with a 6 kilogram force to hold things in place.

Underneath the engraving deck I line the table with some offcuts of mirical mat (non slip mat). The mirical mat helps cushion the deck and prevents movement when securing it down. Then to align the engraving deck I simlpy align it to the platen and align the front edge of the deck to the tables front edge, then hold it in position with some old harddrive magents. My Left and Top edge guides on the deck are just scraps of acrylic glued to the metal sheet with 3m double sided tape.

I position and hold the templates in place with the magnets. These are low profile rare earth magnets with a hole through them so the laser head will safely pass over them. The magnets are used to hold both the templates and the objects being engraved. I use an Allen key to lever off the magnets cuase there's not way you can pick em up with your fingers.

The second last pic shows engraving wine glasses with a Jig on a Rotary Roller but thats another story.

225888225889225890225891225892225893225894225895

john banks
03-04-2012, 2:39 PM
A few bugs in RDCAM 5 to be aware of:

Undo sometimes undoes too many steps.

If you have many vector layers and have many of them selected and click a color in the color bar to collapse them all to one layer, then the old layers remain cluttering the list and you cannot easily see your remaining layer. Saving and reopening the file fixes it.

When you first load a vector file and have "path optimize" checked it will optimize the cutting path using your recent optimize settings but won't show the optimized path and instead show the original path. You can see this if you go into simulation and then exit, the cut path will have changed.

Other findings:

Kerf width compensation works well ("sew width" in layer properties if you haven't relabelled it). If you select "outside" and 0.15mm for 3mm acrylic cutting then it seems about right on our 38mm lens with acrylic. The pieces you cut out of the sheet will be the correct size if your step lengths are correct. The sheet you cut them out of will be too large by double your kerf width. If kerf width compensation is not selected, the cut pieces are 0.15mm too small and the sheet cut out is 0.15mm too large.

The supplied focus stick with the supplied lens (which was installed the wrong way up) on our machine was labelled as 9mm, but the actual optimum focus is 7.5mm from the end of the cone to the surface of the material. This has been tested by engraving at 5% power and then selecting the focus length with the deepest engrave.

After correcting our table, it stays within about 0.5mm all over. If you have an item to engrave and it has an uneven or sloping surface, then you may have only a 1mm depth of field and could go out of focus. Consider using a longer focal length lens to engrave uneven or sloped surfaces.

For the rotary, a tip from Rodney, shim up the side of the rotary attachment frame to correct a sloping surface which is not parallel to the longitudinal axis of the rollers. We don't vector with the rotary as the movement and resetting position is not accurate due to slip. We restrict scanning speed to 200mm/s to avoid shuddering the machine and item. Again consider a longer focal length lens.

The supplied CorelDraw plug in will keep even complex filled vectors in their multiple layers and colors, but will unfill them. If you need to raster a vector, convert to black and white in Corel first before attempting an export. I am testing a modified plug in which has a simple difference, anything you leave "selected" before you hit the plug in will be converted to a 500 DPI dithered bitmap before being dumped into RDCAM. I need to play with the automatic dithering options as whilst 500 DPI is good for reduced aliasing of solid filled curved objects when rastered, it is too fine to resolve the default high density dither used by Corel in its "convert to bitmap" function. If you have bitmaps in Corel then the plug in doesn't dither them (I'll be looking at this), you can use the options in Laserwork by clicking "BMP" when the bitmap is selected. Dot graphic is good for high resolution line art, net graphic is good for low resolution stuff, but neither quite have the control I want.

Rich Harman
03-04-2012, 2:45 PM
Can we get an explanation as to how to re-label the text?

john banks
03-04-2012, 3:36 PM
Edit the .ini files in the LaserworkV5 folder using notepad or your preferred text editor.



C:\Program Files (x86)\Corel\CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X5\Programs\LaserWorkV5>di
r *.ini
Volume in drive C is OS
Volume Serial Number is 18B3-C130


Directory of C:\Program Files (x86)\Corel\CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X5\Programs\
LaserWorkV5


18/08/2010 17:22 13,523 Lang_chs.ini
18/08/2010 17:22 13,633 Lang_cht.ini
16/02/2012 23:32 17,021 Lang_eng.ini
18/08/2010 17:22 16,494 Lang_other.ini
26/01/2011 00:29 442 Preview_chs.ini
26/01/2011 00:35 444 Preview_cht.ini
16/02/2012 23:14 541 Preview_eng.ini
17/03/2010 18:11 524 Preview_other.ini
8 File(s) 62,622 bytes
0 Dir(s) 448,382,382,080 bytes free


C:\Program Files (x86)\Corel\CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X5\Programs\LaserWorkV5>


You'll see the two ini files which are the English ones with date modified in 2012. I haven't fixed all the spelling mistakes but relabelled most things according to my twisted version of what I call logic. You can play with the files and keep your originals under a different name to restore when you want.

Not sure how I can post a non-image attachment, but if you want them PM me with an email address.

Note you'll have two copies of Laserwork on your hard drive, even if you "plug laserwork" as I did following your advice. One in the C drive (or your root) and one in the location I show above.

Steven Cox
03-04-2012, 6:27 PM
Not sure how I can post a non-image attachment, but if you want them PM me with an email address.


John try zipping the files, I wondered about that too but I've seen a few posts with .zip attachments

john banks
03-05-2012, 2:00 PM
Trying the basic uploader since the image uploader refuses the zip:

226310

john banks
03-10-2012, 3:03 PM
For alignment, the final mirror in my testing was only useful for getting the beam central through the tip of the cone. Very little further adjustment is possible without causing reflections and off center beam. So when you drill holes in acrylic and find that you have an angle, you have to go back to the laser mounts. I found that a full turn on one of the plastic screws at the high voltage end of the tube (probably only 1mm movement) was enough to change the angle to fix it (after the further necessary resetting of mirror 1 and 2.

I could curse the narrow nozzle, but it greatly improves the efficiency of air assist.

Rich Harman
03-10-2012, 4:14 PM
If the beam is centered on the final mirror, as it should be, and you adjust the final mirror so that the beam is centered in the cone and your cuts are at an angle then the problem is the alignment of the laser head itself.

On neither of my machines was the laser head aligned perpendicular to the table in either the left/right or fore/aft directions. An easy way to check is to fire a dot, lower the table quite a ways then fire again. The latter will be out of focus but it should be centered on the first dot.

john banks
03-10-2012, 4:37 PM
The beam was centered on the final mirror and it was adjusted to center the beam in the cone, but moving the head on its mounts in any direction (including straight down with a spirit level in both axes) always resulted in the dot when the table was lowered being down and to the right. Still trying to explain this except that perhaps the angle on my head between the center of the final mirror and the cone isn't straight??

Rich Harman
03-10-2012, 9:47 PM
I use a square to determine if the laser head is perpendicular to the table.

If the final mirror is adjusted out too much (or in too much, not sure if that is possible) then the beam will have to be steered towards the center of the lens, which then can make it come out at an angle. I generally start with the mirror turned in all the way, then out a quarter turn to give the mirror room to move.

Someday I want to replace the head with something similar to what Epilog uses.

john banks
03-11-2012, 4:01 PM
Thanks, I took the time to go over it all again today and decided to lower mirror #2, tweak the head further to get it square, adjusted the #3 mirror to get it straight, got it central in the cone and got the cuts all straight in all corners of the table.

Following that, because my new air compressor was too noisy and cracked (it is going back), and following an idea on the oplaser forum, I made an acrylic insert (3mm thick) to go into the nozzle, and found that a 2mm central hole with 4.7mm outside diameter worked well for a really tight push fit. I tried to use kerf width compensation, but narrowed down a crash and problems with the processing window hanging when simulating or sending to the laser was due to using this and nested items, I checked this on Windows 7 and XP and they are the same, so I won't be using kerf width compensation.

The result of the new nozzle insert was much higher air pressure at the nozzle, like a free compressor upgrade so that there is not really any clean up required on untreated wood after cutting now most of the time. The results are comparable to running 29 PSI on the big noisy compressor, except I'm only running 5 PSI.

I tried using a blank insert and let the laser fire its way through, and that worked but produced reflections/ghosting on the cuts, as did inner diameters smaller than 2mm.

However, with 2mm requested, with kerf compensation off I got 2.15mm, which is less than a quarter of the cross sectional area of the original nozzle, and you can tell from the way that it hits the knife blade table or your finger. The earlier alignment work paid off because the beam is central in the nozzle all around the table which is necessary for this mod to work and not keep melting the entire insert.

Khalid Nazim
03-12-2012, 12:43 AM
This is really interesting. I am sick of cleaning my lens all the time specially when running the compressor. Can you take some pictures and show what this mod looks like?

Regards
Khalid

john banks
03-12-2012, 4:49 AM
Like this: oplaser.co.uk/opsupport/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=211 but mine is actually central. Will see how Jane gets on with it today with some work and report back and photograph etc.

Khalid Nazim
03-14-2012, 11:38 AM
How do you get the beam to be central to the cone? I have tried using the method suggested on Rabbit Laser site and I think I have got it right but I would like to know what you are doing to ensure that the laser beam is coming out from the center of the cone.

john banks
03-14-2012, 2:22 PM
I stick tape over the end of the cone and then fire the laser. It leaves a mark and if you didn't have the power too high or pulsed for too long you can see from the mark on the tape where it is in relation to the mark that the edge of the cone made when you applied the tape.

Still need to upgrade my compressor because with the 75mm lens we cannot use this insert method since the beam is quite wide at the cone. In fact, I gained performance with the 75mm lens by being sure the beam was central in the cone because it is so wide so far above the focal point.

Rich Harman
03-14-2012, 3:29 PM
I use thermal paper. Since I use a pin table that is about 3" high I can jog the laser head off the pin table where there is about 6" distance to the table. The thermal paper is on the table. Firing the laser should make a nice filled in disk on the thermal paper. If it is half moon or pie shaped then I adjust the final mirror until it is a disk.

It'a also a quick way to check for alignment across the table. If you get a nice disk in all four corners of your table, you know your alignment is perfect.

john banks
04-30-2012, 3:34 PM
Kerf width compensation "sew width" fails to work with jobs not downloading to the laser and the progress bar getting stuck.

Offset Polygon allows the same to be done. There are a few options to allow the original vectors to be deleted, and whether the direction of movement is to always make larger, always make smaller, or to contour inwards or outwards. I've used it to make some push fit parts in wood and acrylic.

Might be handy if you're not using CorelDraw's contour function or just want another way of doing it.

john banks
05-11-2012, 3:48 PM
I still haven't worked out a good way to stop the air hose hitting the panel behind the lid hinge except to move the head to the right of the machine before turning off.

Martin Coetzee
05-30-2012, 4:00 AM
Any idea why my machine would not go lower that a 17 mm/sec speed setting via software but will go as low as 1 mm / sec from the control panel.
I need to cut some thick material and have to do 2 passes on the software settings before the cut is completely thru.
Help would be appreciated.

Rich Harman
06-03-2012, 9:44 PM
Here's an issue that I discovered today. Laserworks has a nice feature (preview) that will tell you how long the work will take. It is very useful when working up a quote. The problem comes when there are different speeds.

If you have two identical items, one above the other with the top one set to 5mm/sec and the other 10mm/sec, the estimated time that it reports will be as if both pieces are cut at 5mm/sec. If you swap them around then the total time will be reported at 10mm/sec.

The workaround is to make sure that you get the times on each speed setting separately.

Scott Moore2
06-11-2012, 11:37 AM
Yes!! Thanks. That's exactly what I was looking for.

Scott Moore
24x36 100W Morntech laser
Corel Draw X5, PS CS5, Illustrator CS5

john banks
06-11-2012, 12:05 PM
The other thing with this estimate in the simulator is that the "idle" time which is when the laser is not firing is calculated on the basis of the "work" rate and if there is a lot of white space it can grossly overestimate. For example, we were doing a few small cuts in a large sheet of acrylic and the travel time between them was grossly overestimated based on a speed of something like 10mm/s which means it thinks it needs a few minutes to cross the table. So I go off the work time and add a bit for white space.


Here's an issue that I discovered today. Laserworks has a nice feature (preview) that will tell you how long the work will take. It is very useful when working up a quote. The problem comes when there are different speeds.

If you have two identical items, one above the other with the top one set to 5mm/sec and the other 10mm/sec, the estimated time that it reports will be as if both pieces are cut at 5mm/sec. If you swap them around then the total time will be reported at 10mm/sec.

The workaround is to make sure that you get the times on each speed setting separately.

Rich Harman
06-11-2012, 12:29 PM
I've noticed some problems with the preview estimate.

I cut out several things yesterday ranging from under a minute to about 15 minutes. In every case the Preview estimate was considerably more than the actual time required to cut.

Here are some times that I wrote down;

:25 - preview
:09 - actual

3:35 - preview
2:42 - actual

6:07 - preview
5:23 - actual

7:02 - preview
5:35 - actual

In every case the cut speed was 16mm/sec, only one color was used.

Rich Harman
06-11-2012, 12:36 PM
The other thing with this estimate in the simulator is that the "idle" time which is when the laser is not firing is calculated on the basis of the "work" rate and if there is a lot of white space it can grossly overestimate. For example, we were doing a few small cuts in a large sheet of acrylic and the travel time between them was grossly overestimated based on a speed of something like 10mm/s which means it thinks it needs a few minutes to cross the table. So I go off the work time and add a bit for white space.

I had been using "Total Time", not realizing that it did not account for rapids. The "Light Time" estimate (5:23) works out to be just 12 seconds under the actual time on the piece that estimated 7:02 for the total time.

john banks
06-11-2012, 2:27 PM
Sorry I mangled the terminology

Total = light + idle

I think I labelled them differently:

Total = work + idle

To calculate the idle periods correctly it would have to look at the accel/decel stuff which the machine does if you do a worktime preview, but it takes a little while. Hopefully a PC would be able to do it much faster, saving the effort of having to send the job to the laser just to do "worktime preview".

Scott Moore2
06-12-2012, 11:08 AM
This was very helpful. Thanks. I had exactly the same issue and went and bought those little connectors today.

George M. Perzel
07-02-2012, 12:21 PM
Hi Gang;
My Shenhui is pretty big-the bed is almost 4 ft x 3 ft. As a result, the normal exhaust system has a bit of trouble clearing the smoke (I cut alotta wood) quickly. To assist the process I installed three 4" computer fans in the small removable front panel (removable for long projects) and power them with a 12 volt power supply from an old HP printer which died. Fans like these are readily available and inexpensive-check Ebay235842235843

Rich Harman
07-20-2012, 2:56 PM
Twice in the last week LaseWorks has crashed. That alone is not much of a problem but what is a real pain is that all of my settings vanish and have to be re-entered. Is there a way to save the configuration and reload it after a crash?

john banks
07-20-2012, 5:18 PM
You could take a copy of the laserworks folder and restore it if necessary. There are various config files that get their dates changed (config and pfile I think), so you could just copy those if you prefer.

John Barton
07-31-2012, 9:31 PM
Running a generic laser - Reci 100w tube. Now getting no power to the tube when the laser is test fired. Tube appears to be fine. All the spots in the electrical appear to be getting juice using a sensor to test. Everything else works, chiller working, water flowing, no obvious shorts or damage anywhere.

Any suggestions? I tried the search function and didn't come up with any threads that matched my problem so if there has been one and you have a link I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,

John

Rich Harman
07-31-2012, 9:59 PM
I think to properly diagnose we need more details.

I have had the problem of no laser when hitting the "laser" button on the control panel. It was a setting issue. You can specify the length of time that the laser is on when hitting the button. If there has been a change to that the laser may not appear to be firing when it really is. If it is set to zero then it will fire for as long as the button is held.

John Barton
07-31-2012, 11:28 PM
Until 11:30pm two days ago the laser was working fine. We had replaced the water in the chiller at 9am and the laser ran fine until 11:30. After that it would not fire at all, either when trying to run a job or from the laser button on the control panel. I noticed that the wall plugs had burned up so I replaced them, checked the sockets on the laser and everything is fine with power going into the unit. All the boards appear to be lit up properly, the transformers appear to be working with no signs of shorts or arcing anywhere.

The tube appears to be fully intact. The red wire connected to the tube was a touch frayed so I disconnected it, shaved off some insulation and hooked it back up to the tube. So there is a good connection at that point.

Everything else works, the jobs will run but no beam is firing.

I don't think it's a control panel issue. I get the beep when I try to test fire it. I also looked up into the backside of the control panel to see if there was any visible short or loose wires.

We did replace the transformers about a month ago after one of them shorted out. I am stumped as to what the problem is here.

http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/q520/jbideas/IMAG0891.jpg

http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/q520/jbideas/IMAG0892.jpg

UPDATE: FIXED - when my staff changed the water they pulled the alarm cable out from the back of the transformer. So the laser correctly assumed that there was no water and wouldn't fire. I am so stupid that I didn't notice this all day yesterday. I now have taken a picture of how everything is supposed to be connected for everyone to check off when doing anything. Sorry for bothering you all.

Zlatko Kursar
08-04-2012, 12:11 PM
I got my new Shenhui 600 x 900 mm with 80W RECI tube. I'm cutting the plexi of 3 mm with speed 12mm/sec and 90% power and I think that this must go faster. Am I wrong?

Rich Harman
08-04-2012, 4:11 PM
Dou you have an ammeter? If so, what is the mA when firing at 90% power?

The power setting is somewhat irrelevant if the laser power supply is not tuned. I run my 80 Watt Reci at 85% - which is 24 mA on the ammeter. Reci states a max of 29 mA but recommends limiting to 26 mA for long life. I run at 24 mA only because I do not notice a significant improvement with a couple more milliamps.

I cut 3mm smoked cast acrylic at 18mm/sec when placed in the upper left quadrant of the table.

Greg Facer
09-10-2012, 5:24 PM
Hi Rich,

On the topic of Ammeter, any thoughts on what type and/or specs for a unit to add on, and where to have the leads connect. I think I know that it is between the low voltage side and the power supply, but I don't know if it's a run of the mill ammeter or something higher voltage.

The machines we ordered didn't come with ammeters, an oversight in the ordering process my myself. I think our working machine might need that exact tuning you describe.

Thanks, Greg

Rich Harman
09-10-2012, 6:16 PM
The ammeter connects in series on the low side like you said, the voltage on the low side will be near zero. I would think that any ammeter with the appropriate range scale would work well - but I have never had to source one.

Best thing would be to get Shenhui to send you a couple.

Aside from that I would try to find one with a very low resistance. The ammeters that I have experience with use a milli-ohm shunt in series with the the circuit. The resistance of the shunt is extremely low but very precise. When you measure the voltage drop across the shunt you can calculate the current using Ohm's law. The milliammeters that I have found on Mouser have resistances of 1k Ohms or higher. I do not know how it will affect the laser by putting a 1K (or whatever) resistor in the circuit.

Greg Facer
09-10-2012, 7:00 PM
Hi Rich,

It looks like I can get some fancy looking digital ones on ebay for not to much, but is the current DC or AC, a search on ebay shows that it seems to matter.

Hmm, looking further, looks like it's DC.

Mason Atom
09-24-2012, 10:00 AM
Howdy, new poster here. This is a great resource that you've put together here! I'm very glad to have found such knowledgable posters.

I'm using the LaserWorks 5.0.21 software package on an Artsign 50W JSM-3060N laser - it has the RDLC320A LCD controller panel. I believe the drive board is a Leetro 6515 but I'm not 100% sure.

Where in LaserWorks do I set the stepper motor configuration? If I engrave a 10" square, the sides come out at about 9.94". If I engrave a 20" square, they come out at 19.88". It seems to be a rather uniform error so I think I just need to recalibrate my stepper motors, but I can't seem to find where to do this. I thought it was in the "User" tab but I don't see it.

I'm also having an issue with backlash on my machine. I posted a thread on it here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?192110-Backlash-Problems&p=1983727#post1983727).

Thanks for any assistance you can give.

Mason

Mike Browning
09-24-2012, 12:21 PM
i have also joined the Shenhui club with a double head 80W, been a real slow build up due to sensor issues.
i am struggling with engraving cleanly, and also find that the machine heats up quite quickly. any help with this?

Rich Harman
09-24-2012, 4:29 PM
... and also find that the machine heats up quite quickly. any help with this?

Can you be more specific?

john banks
09-24-2012, 4:34 PM
File... Vendor Settings... (password rd8888) then click the ... by step length under X and Y axes respectively and put in your intended and measured dimensions. Retry and measure, refine, readjust.


Howdy, new poster here. This is a great resource that you've put together here! I'm very glad to have found such knowledgable posters.

I'm using the LaserWorks 5.0.21 software package on an Artsign 50W JSM-3060N laser - it has the RDLC320A LCD controller panel. I believe the drive board is a Leetro 6515 but I'm not 100% sure.

Where in LaserWorks do I set the stepper motor configuration? If I engrave a 10" square, the sides come out at about 9.94". If I engrave a 20" square, they come out at 19.88". It seems to be a rather uniform error so I think I just need to recalibrate my stepper motors, but I can't seem to find where to do this. I thought it was in the "User" tab but I don't see it.

I'm also having an issue with backlash on my machine. I posted a thread on it here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?192110-Backlash-Problems&p=1983727#post1983727).

Thanks for any assistance you can give.

Mason

Mason Atom
09-24-2012, 4:44 PM
File... Vendor Settings... (password rd8888) then click the ... by step length under X and Y axes respectively and put in your intended and measured dimensions. Retry and measure, refine, readjust.

Awesome. Super thanks! I'll try this tonight.

mason

Rich Harman
09-24-2012, 5:08 PM
I wrote at some length earlier about setting the step length. Not everyone agrees with me but I think the method of entering the values and letting the software work out the step length is rubbish. If you use that method then you are adjusting the mathematically derived step length to account for some other error. That adjustment will then only be applicable to that particular size of object. Make something twice as small or twice as large and you will find that you need to repeat that processs.

My Shenhui machine should be set to 6.000 step length. Period. If that does not produce an accurate cut then the error is elsewhere in the machine.

Before tweaking anything else make sure you have tuned the backlash - and do not over tighten the belts.

Mason Atom
09-25-2012, 9:26 AM
That adjustment will then only be applicable to that particular size of object. Make something twice as small or twice as large and you will find that you need to repeat that processs.


Hmmm... on my machine it seems to be a systematic error that is propagated relative to the object size - that is to say the percentage offset seems to be the same whether I make a 2", 5", 10", or 20" square. Thus far it appears as though my universal correction to the step length is working correctly, regardless of object size. Odd.

mason

Rich Harman
10-26-2012, 5:48 PM
I discovered an odd behavior the other day. In LaserWorks when entering the speed and power there are two places to enter power - Min and Max. I generally just enter the max and leave the min alone. Never had a problem.

So I had this 2' x 4' sheet of 3/8 black where the whole sheet had to be cut at once. To be absolutely sure that I cut it cleanly all the way through I lowered the speed to 3mm/sec on the parts that were on the lower right of the bed - furthest from the laser tube. All worked fine until it came to the 3mm/sec part. The ammeter went down to 9mA from it's normal 25 mA. The display correctly said it was at 90% and strangely enough it was still cutting through.

I'll spare the details of how I tracked down the problem but it turns out that entering the power setting into both the min and max was the fix. For some reason, when the speed goes below 4/mm sec the power to the laser seems to alternate rapidly between the min and max settings.

Rodne Gold
10-27-2012, 12:52 AM
I've never worked out what that max/min thing did (in software) , we just set it almost equal like 27 min , 30 max...

john banks
10-27-2012, 9:01 AM
Min and max are used for some of the rastering methods that vary power - like output direct (min and max set the power levels that correspond to RGB 0xffffff and 0x000000) and IIRC also the ramp mode but we rarely use either of these modes and normally set them both the same.

Mike Browning
11-22-2012, 12:51 PM
Can you be more specific?

I have a twinhead SH-G1290 80W RECI LASER ENGRAVING AND CUTTING MACHINE when i cut i find the machine overheats quickly and i have to keep stopping the machine and wait to cool off.
the chiller is a cw-500 as advised on this forum. i am cutting at 80-85% 3mm perspex, do i need to look at improving the chiller?

Rich Harman
11-22-2012, 4:22 PM
How are you determining that it is overheating? I assume you mean the tube/tubes and not the motors.

walter hofmann
11-22-2012, 4:50 PM
hi mike
thats a lot of power for 3mm perspex with a 80W tube, what speed you are running?? I use 40w the small machine and for perspex i only use 45% power and 10mm/s speed.
greetings
waltfl

Mike Browning
12-19-2012, 2:11 PM
i have reduced the power and its really cold out so running ok now, couple questions, if the is scaling in the tubes from the water is there any way to flush/clean? also struggling to engrave letters properly as it seems to go a little fuzzy almost like there would be blowback, i am struggling to etch finely, cutting is no probs just etching seems to be an issue?

SH-G1290 80W RECI LASER ENGRAVING AND CUTTING MACHINE

Mike Browning
01-01-2013, 1:23 PM
i have reduced the power and its really cold out so running ok now, couple questions, if the is scaling in the tubes from the water is there any way to flush/clean? also struggling to engrave letters properly as it seems to go a little fuzzy almost like there would be blowback, i am struggling to etch finely, cutting is no probs just etching seems to be an issue?

SH-G1290 80W RECI LASER ENGRAVING AND CUTTING MACHINE
it seems to be splitting the beam and causing double engraving, strange i when it cuts its fine? please see image.249832

Rich Harman
01-01-2013, 3:52 PM
Is it the same when you set it to Uni Directional engraving rather than "Swing"?

Mike Browning
01-01-2013, 4:33 PM
Is it the same when you set it to Uni Directional engraving rather than "Swing"?

all i do is change to scan and change power and speed, typically 10-15 power and 350-500 speed as its mainly cast perspex that i am engraving.

should i be playing with other settings?

Steven Cox
01-01-2013, 5:31 PM
SH-G1290 80W RECI LASER ENGRAVING AND CUTTING MACHINE[/COLOR]

I use filtered water rather than straight tap water, the filtered water seems to have much less scale build up. For flushing, I reverse the lines so the water flows backwards and do this for 10 to 15 min as I found it helps dislodge some most of the scale. To reduce the scale going back into the tube I use an in-line canister type filter (clear plastic in-line fuel filter). Look for a high flow type filter so it doesn't restrict the flow too much, also disconnect the filter when reverse flushing.

Would be interested in hearing from others if there's a chemical or other method that's safe to use to help remove hard to remove scale, as I have some scale that I can'r get rid of from before I started using a filter.

Hope this helps

Rich Harman
01-01-2013, 11:13 PM
If you change to uni directional engraving and the problem goes away then you know where the problem lies.

Zlatko Kursar
01-02-2013, 8:59 AM
On ammeter with 90% of power I get 13 mA. Is that OK because I saw that maksimum current for 80W RECI is 30 mA (working 28 mA).

Mike Browning
01-02-2013, 12:04 PM
If you change to uni directional engraving and the problem goes away then you know where the problem lies.

HI Rich, that brilliant much better now, only thing i am struggling with now is clean edges as it is almost pix elated, my Epilog used to finish to a perfect sharp letter this seems to have very fine jagged edges if you follow?

many thanks for the help so far.

walter hofmann
01-03-2013, 5:44 AM
Hi there
yes the tube manufacturer recoomends a 5 to 10% muriatic acid solution and run flashing like a cirkle for 3 to 5 min then use dest water and flash it away for 5 minu.
this cleaned my totally scumpt tube perfectly.
greetings
walt

Steven Cox
01-03-2013, 8:02 AM
Thanks Walt,
I didn't know what muriatic acid was but did a quick google and found this:
http://chemistry.about.com/od/moleculescompounds/f/What-Is-Muriatic-Acid.htm

Yep, Spririts of Salts is what its known here as.... Thanks again!
Regards Steve.

Jimmy Phillips
01-03-2013, 3:08 PM
Thanks Walt,
I didn't know what muriatic acid was but did a quick google and found this:
http://chemistry.about.com/od/moleculescompounds/f/What-Is-Muriatic-Acid.htm

Yep, Spririts of Salts is what its known here as.... Thanks again!
Regards Steve.

Muriatic acid is used to clean bricks, concrete, and metal. It can be used to etch concrete also. It also does a wonderful job on barnacles on a boats running gear or outboard lower unit....eats them up!

Jimmy

walter hofmann
01-03-2013, 5:07 PM
hi jimmy
thats right if you use the concentrated version, but if you use the concentration I have given (5 to 10%) you would not even hurt your self this is by the way the concentration what is in tile cleaner and some bathroom cleaner.
to the eyglass cleaner what I use is the optical lens cleaning solution from sears this is specially formulated for reflectiv lenses. and cheap a bottle goes now for more then two years and is still half full
greetings
waltfl

Mike Browning
01-05-2013, 2:10 PM
HI Rich, that brilliant much better now, only thing i am struggling with now is clean edges as it is almost pix elated, my Epilog used to finish to a perfect sharp letter this seems to have very fine jagged edges if you follow?

many thanks for the help so far. anyone know how to solve this?

Rodne Gold
01-05-2013, 3:37 PM
You may need to apply some backlash compensation if you are using bidirectional scanning.
You are probably getting this:
-----
..-----
-----
..-----
(ignore dots-- just for the forum formatting)
Rather than this
-----
-----
-----
-----

Mason Atom
01-15-2013, 12:33 PM
it seems to be splitting the beam and causing double engraving, strange i when it cuts its fine? please see image.249832

It is also possible that your 'reverse interval' setting in your configuration file is work. My Artsign JSM-3060N was doing the same thing and it turned out that the reverse interval setting was basically filled with gibberish - the file got corrupted somehow so the instrument was putting in an inaccurate compensation for the backlash.

I would check that first... unilateral cutting = half speed = less profits.

Walt Langhans
02-15-2013, 8:47 AM
Rodney had posted this link to help me align my Shenui, and although it's for a Rabbit it's just about the same for the Shenui it is way better than the instructions that came with the machine and it saved me lots of time and grief so I figured it should go here.


HELP ALIGNING YOU SHENUI:
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/BeamAlignment.html

Walt Langhans
02-19-2013, 10:51 PM
If you get the following error message:

No Enough
Extend Space
Please Esc

It's a rastering error. Depending on your rastering speed setting the machine needs a certain amount of space within it's working area to accelerate and decelerate the nozzle and if you are to close to the edge it will give you this error.

To fix it you have two options, reduce the speed or move what ever you are rastering further from the edges of the work space. So far (key words "SO FAR") if seems better to move you stuff away from the edges vs adjusting the speed, but if you at the edge and have no where else to go then adjusting the speed is your only option.

Johan de Waal
04-12-2013, 4:42 PM
Hi guys, Rodne directed me to the forum as i am about to get myself one of these machines. After reading all the threads on this topic posted here and several emails and engagements with te suppliers i have decided. To go for the G1290 (new model) but i'm battling to make up my mind if i should go for a 80W RECI laser or just go full out and go for the 120W RECI laser. I'll be mostly cutting 3mm material.(wood and plastics) and will do some wood engraving as well en perhaps some etchings /engraving on coffee mugs and glasses etc for my wife's gift shop. Can you guys give me some pointers on what the pro's and cons are on the 120W vs the 80W and is it really worth the additional $600?

Thanks!

Mike Null
04-12-2013, 5:54 PM
Johan

Welcome to Sawmill Creek. I'm on my second machine having been at it for a little more than 15 years. I would advise going for more power as I will do on my next machine. You can probably do everything you want with 80w but you can do it so much faster with 120W and it opens up more materials for you to work with.

Johan de Waal
04-13-2013, 2:40 AM
Johan

Welcome to Sawmill Creek. I'm on my second machine having been at it for a little more than 15 years. I would advise going for more power as I will do on my next machine. You can probably do everything you want with 80w but you can do it so much faster with 120W and it opens up more materials for you to work with.

Hi Mike, thanks for the prompt response. The supplier spec'ed the CW5000 chillir for both the 120W and the 80W. Will it. Be sufficient for the 120W?

Also is it more difficult to do delicate low power engraving with the 120W than the 80W? Or will they both be able to do the exact same jobs in the low power ranges?

Thanks!

Rodne Gold
04-13-2013, 2:45 AM
The 120w is not suitable for engraving, keep to 80w if you want a dual duty machine. All the chinese suppliers will tell you the same , despite the fact it would be to their financial advantage to sell a 120w ....

Dan Ashlin
04-16-2013, 3:12 PM
Hay All, I'm looking for some advice on job positioning within lasercut 5.3 What I would like to do is set the artwork to a specific location on the table in lasercut, that way i can accurately make a jig for repeat part marking. Is there anywhere within the program I can tell it to place an artwork file at say x850/y250?

john banks
04-30-2013, 10:16 AM
Our x axis went very rough yesterday and at low power would not move but just vibrated. Tried various things to narrow it down, eventually found a loose connection on one wire where glue was holding it in to the plug rather than the screw being tight enough. This is the plug where it goes into the stepper motor driver. All smooth again.

Hermes Sandoval
05-21-2013, 7:16 PM
I helped a friend with the installation of his laser machine after a local dealer sold him a shenhui 120w. The chiller kept overheating above 38°, shutting the machine down. It's a CW3000 (I don't know why they call it a "chiller", its just a water recirculator). I have a used Neslab CFT75, but it can't work with the laser machine because of the sensor installed in the CW3000 is not present in the CFT75. Even if I set water protection in RDCAM to NO, it won't shoot the laser. It will move, it will accept the job from the PC and go around, but it won't shoot. With water protection set to YES it won't start, gives me the water protection error msg on the machine's LCD.

Pls advice.

George Carlson
05-21-2013, 7:32 PM
The water protection output of the CW3000 is generally tied directly to the laser power supply, it may also be tied to the controller depending on the system. It's the connection to the laser power supply that shuts off the laser. For a machine that size, you should be using the CW5000 which is a refrigerated unit. You could put a shorting plug in place of the water sensor, but you would totally loose the protection.

Clark Pace
05-22-2013, 10:16 AM
Hi All. I'm in the process of trying to get a laser cutter from China to the USA. Things are working out so, far. But there are many questions I should have asked had I known what to ask for. My broker has been good, but there are still things I wish I would have known. I will be doing a thorough review on my experience and what process you should be aware of for those of you who are thinking about getting a laser from China.

Just a heads up on that. I want others experience to go as smooth as possible.

Hermes Sandoval
05-22-2013, 12:57 PM
Thank you for your response, sheds some new light on the subject.

Shouldnt it overlook the connection of the power supply to the chiller after changing the vendor settings's water protection to "NO"?

I can't connect the neslab chiller to the laser machine's power supply, it's a 220 vac.

Khalid Nazim
05-23-2013, 3:40 PM
There is no electrical connection between the CW3000 chiller and the Laser. The control board on the laser detects water flow through a water flow switch - (its installed in the left hand bottom panel of the laser if you are facing the laser). The water flow switch needs to make contact to enable the controller to allow the laser to fire. Check the water flow switch and the connection from the flow switch to the controller.

Regards
Khalid

john banks
05-24-2013, 6:50 AM
We have an electrical connection between our CW5000 and our laser, it covers the event in which there is flow but the cooling has failed, it did not come like that but came with a plug that could be used to wire up this facility as did the control board. Sometimes my operator is not the most observant or skilled at preventative maintenance or fault finding so it is good to have electronic protection.

George Carlson
05-24-2013, 9:07 AM
I was assuming it was similar to my Redsail laser, which uses the water flow sensor built into the CW3000. If this laser has a built-in sensor, it is probably wired the same. The sensor directly controls the laser power supply preventing it from operating if there is no water flow. It may also connect to the controller, but more as an information device than anything else.
There is no electrical connection between the CW3000 chiller and the Laser. The control board on the laser detects water flow through a water flow switch - (its installed in the left hand bottom panel of the laser if you are facing the laser). The water flow switch needs to make contact to enable the controller to allow the laser to fire. Check the water flow switch and the connection from the flow switch to the controller.

Regards
Khalid

George M. Perzel
05-31-2013, 10:55 AM
Hi Guys;
I did not think that the min power setting had any effect when cutting-most of the time I have set it at the same as the max setting or a bit below. On the last job, min was set at 25% and Max at 90%-noticed the cut was very poor. Checked the current meters (twin head) and noticed it was down around 6ma on both tubes when it should have been up near 21ma at 90%. Cranked the min setting up to 70% and all OK now.
Best Regards,
George
Laserarts

Clark Pace
06-05-2013, 10:44 AM
LaserMate Software. Hey folks. Got my machine up and running. A question about Lastermate 5.2. When I import a bmp file the image it does not come in at the size I save it at. Say I use photoshop and put the dimension in at 120mm x 120mm. When I bring in the image it pull it up at a much larger size. I then have to resize the image back to 120mm. Or whatever size I saved it at. Any ideas how to have the image come in at the size it was saved at? Thanks.

Hermes Sandoval
06-10-2013, 10:11 AM
LaserMate Software. Hey folks. Got my machine up and running. A question about Lastermate 5.2. When I import a bmp file the image it does not come in at the size I save it at. Say I use photoshop and put the dimension in at 120mm x 120mm. When I bring in the image it pull it up at a much larger size. I then have to resize the image back to 120mm. Or whatever size I saved it at. Any ideas how to have the image come in at the size it was saved at? Thanks.

It happened to me about 5 years ago, when first foison laser machines started arriving. There are two types of BMP corel exported to, OS BMP and Windows BMP, one of them did the trick, still can't remember which one, but it can't be too hard to try them out.

Hermes Sandoval.

Allan Stephens
06-24-2013, 3:40 PM
Hello Guys I to are new to this and i am wanting to know if anybody has any idea how to setup artwork in coreldraw X5, AI cs6 or lasercut 5.3 to use my pass-through on my machine. my machine is 1200 x 900 mm and a job i have is and must be 1220 x 900 mm so to do this i need to use my pass-through. I have tried to stuff over the internet but nothing, so i thought i would try here. I have tried to cut it in half but trying to line it up when cutting doesn't work to well, i used to use a program called multicad for my CNC router and when my diagrams were bigger then machine it automatically did a pass-though setup so it would just cut to table size then i had to move it, this is what i am trying to do with my laser machine.

Hope someone can help us out or lead me on the right path.

Regards:
Allan

Hermes Sandoval
09-02-2013, 2:16 PM
I got a gravograph laser system with a few parts missing;

It's CPU fried so I'm thinking to replace it with a dsp from lightobject.com

One stepper broke, its a sanyo denki 1.8" DC4A, I got another one with DC 3.2A, anyone knows if it can work?

The CPU's power supply is alive and well, I'm thinking about using it with the chinese DSP, they have the same power specs.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hermes Sandoval.

Dave Sheldrake
09-02-2013, 3:36 PM
What model is the system? ideally you need matched steppers, using one that is different can cause problems.

cheers

Dave

Hermes Sandoval
09-02-2013, 5:06 PM
What model is the system? ideally you need matched steppers, using one that is different can cause problems.

cheers

Dave
The system is (was) a gravograph LS600, so I have the full stage, cables, sensors, motors (except X axis) belts, full optics, solid state relay and CPU power supply.

The spare motor I have is completely the same, except for the 3.2 amps vs 4.0 amps difference

Allen Rawley
09-14-2013, 9:52 PM
The system is (was) a gravograph LS600, so I have the full stage, cables, sensors, motors (except X axis) belts, full optics, solid state relay and CPU power supply.

The spare motor I have is completely the same, except for the 3.2 amps vs 4.0 amps difference

The motors are typically smaller on the gantry axis (usually identified as X axis), so your smaller current rating should be fine. The Y axis must move the gantry while the X axis only needs to move the laser focus assembly.

I just purchased two gravograph units, LS200 and LS900. The LS900 still has the motors, but I have not picked them up yet so do not know the specs.

I plan to replace the controls.

Allen Rawley
09-18-2013, 4:15 AM
Hi Clark,

A suggestion is that you have a copy of the FDA letter from your supplier, to make sure it is smooth sailing through customs.

Joshua John Cruz
09-29-2013, 3:30 AM
Hi Everyone,

First of all, thank you very much. I've really learned a lot reading through several threads. I've decided to buy the Shenhui G460 and already got the machine. I have not powered it on yet since I am still trying to figure out a couple of things.

Based on what I've read here and saw on youtube, it seems that the machine has changed over time.

Air assist - I don't even know where the air is blown. But Shenhui support said that orange tube is the air assist.


271893



Work table - There are blades that I have to insert first on the table before I could put the honeycomb on top.


271894



Z-axis. The Z-Axis is changed from "regular" belt to a chain.





The installation of the laser tube has been simplified. I just have to join 2 wires and 2 tubes. Unlike what I saw on youtube where the wires has to be rolled on both ends.


Here are my questions:

1. What should be the distance between the laser tube and the mirror?
271897


2. It seems that the rubber tube is tight enough to fit on the laser tube. Do I really need to use the silicon sealant? If I need to use the silicone sealant, how many hours should I wait for it to dry?
271898

3. There are 2 "220V Output" which I believe where I should plug the water pump & air pump. Is it also okay if I don't plug them in these laser machine plugs? My plan is to plug them in a different power outlet.
271899


4. Is there any sequence on what to power on first?
a. water pump
b. air pump
c. exhaust fan blower
d. lastly laser machine


Hope somebody can help me out.

Thanks,
JJ

George M. Perzel
09-29-2013, 7:01 AM
Hi Joshua;
1. Not critical- should be 1" to 1.5"
2. No sealant needed if tubes fit tight-check for leaks after turning on water pump/cooler.
3. No need to use provided outlets
4. Water pump, laser, then exhaust and air at start of job
Good Luck
Best Regards,
George
Laserarts

George M. Perzel
09-29-2013, 7:03 AM
Hi Joshua;
1. Not critical- should be 1" to 1.5"
2. No sealant needed if tubes fit tight-check for leaks after turning on water pump/cooler.
3. No need to use provided outlets
4. Water pump, laser, then exhaust and air at start of job
Good Luck
Best Regards,
George
Laserarts

Joshua John Cruz
09-29-2013, 10:47 AM
Wow! that was quick!
Thank you so much George! :)


Water pump, laser, then exhaust and air at start of job

As I understand, the water pump and then the laser machine itself should be turned on first.
And before I start cutting, I have to turn on the exhaust first and then the air pump.

Sorry if I sound silly (things that are already obvious) but I just want to make sure everything is in place before I turn on this lovely thing :D

Regards,
JJ

Joshua John Cruz
11-01-2013, 12:57 AM
Wow! that was quick!
Thank you so much George! :)



As I understand, the water pump and then the laser machine itself should be turned on first.
And before I start cutting, I have to turn on the exhaust first and then the air pump.

Sorry if I sound silly (things that are already obvious) but I just want to make sure everything is in place before I turn on this lovely thing :D

Regards,
JJ


Finally, I was able to make my first cut with my Shenhui G460. Thanks to all! And thanks to Shenhui's support Yarde Feng. He is really very helpful. :)

Levi Chanowitz
11-13-2013, 1:45 PM
Hi all
I discovered that there must be something not exact from the machine hardware sett up.
thats where I started and my feeling was right it started with the tube who was not exactly set, then adjusting all the mirrors, squaring all the rails and the gantry.
but I had a hard time explaine all this to my buddys I made a series of picture for all what I have done like they say " a picture is more then a tousand words" and everybody got it right a way.

now the question is to post this picture series here ( thes are 26picture) or not , what do you say?

greetings
walt


I am really excited for this section, all that took me years to figure out.
My characters are not as sharp as they should be, I think it because the rails and the tube are out of alignment.
I dont know how to align them, Perhaps I can get the pictures from you?

Also, on another note, where is the best place to get the lenses?

Levi Chanowitz
11-13-2013, 2:04 PM
Why would you replace the controls?
If you dont need the bridge, I would buy it from you.
I have a ls900

Levi Chanowitz
11-13-2013, 7:09 PM
I have 3 questions:

1. I use laserCut 5.1 and it does not work with windows 7, Rabbit tells me that I would need to switch the electronics to get somthing that is compatible with Windows 7. Is there another way out?

2. for the past few months, somthing must have changed in my computer. When I export to plt and import to laserCut, the letters usually comeout with an extra overlapping wireframe. It doesnt engrave unless I do "Check overlap". How do I change my input file so I dont get the message?

3. I always export to plt (except when I engrave a bitmap). I understand that exporting to .ai would give me a crisper image. The problem is that when I open the .ai file, lots of times there are extra lines that do not belong. How do I export so that I dont have this problem?

Joshua John Cruz
11-18-2013, 8:37 PM
Hello guys,

It's me again. Finally able to work with the machine. But encountered some challenges along the way.
But now, my problem is more with alignment and the power/speed settings.

1.
I have a problem aligning the mirrors.
When Mirror #2 is NEAR Mirror #1, the dot is ABOVE
When Mirror #2 is FAR Mirror #1, the dot is BELOW


Does this mean that Mirror #1 & #2 are not at the same level/plane horizontally?
275290


2.
I tried to note the speed/power settings for 3mm cast acrylic.
2 weeks ago - it was able to cut at 15/70
Yesterday - it was not able to cut at 15/70. But was able to cut at 10/70
Today - it was not able to cut at 10/70. But was able to cut at 10/80


Is this normal? Because if this is the case, then that means I have to do a sample cut before proceeding with bulk cuts?


3.
At 10/80 setting, the machine can cut at the upper left corner, but not at the upper center. How can I fix this?
275291


Thanks in advance :) ,
Josh

Dave Sheldrake
11-18-2013, 9:16 PM
Hi Josh,

1: The tube is at an angle, until it is level with the gantry rails you won't be able to adjust the dot centrally on all mirrors.

2: Cast acrylic varies in thickness by 0.4mm +/- so sheets can be from 2.6mm to 3.4mm for 3mm sheet. Ambient temperature also makes a huge difference (as does alignment)

3: See 1

cheers

Dave

Joshua John Cruz
11-18-2013, 9:58 PM
Hi Josh,

1: The tube is at an angle, until it is level with the gantry rails you won't be able to adjust the dot centrally on all mirrors.

2: Cast acrylic varies in thickness by 0.4mm +/- so sheets can be from 2.6mm to 3.4mm for 3mm sheet. Ambient temperature also makes a huge difference (as does alignment)

3: See 1

cheers

Dave

Thanks for the fast reply Dave! :)

1. So that means that my suspicion that Mirror #1 & #2 are not at the same level/plane horizontally, is not correct?
And the fix for this is just positioning the tube at a correct angle.

2. This is something I need to check. I will buy a thermometer.

3. Alignment is a factor. Could it be that the distance is a factor? For example, at the point where the acrylic is not cut, means that the laser power is sort of decreased because it traveled farther?

Thanks,
Josh

Dave Sheldrake
11-19-2013, 9:09 AM
Hi Josh,

The first mirror height may be out (up/down) but unlikely, more likely is the tube is not firing the beam at mirror 1 at an exact plane (45/90 degrees) that would mean no matter what you do you will always be trying to align a beam that starts off at the wrong angle leading to a move in spot position. Until the tube is bang on to the first mirror you will be chasing your tail :)

Distance does make a difference but not a noticeable one usually,you may lose 1-3% power over distance but as what remains of the beam is focussed down to a tiny spot at the head the losses will be negligible. (also make sure your bed is level to the gantry)

I'll run up a drawing to show the issue with tube angle ;)

cheers

Dave

Joshua John Cruz
11-19-2013, 8:43 PM
Thanks again Dave.

I tried the alignment yesterday for 3 hours but still no luck.
Yarde from Shenhui support told me this:

adjust it like this , no matter where the first dot is (2# mirror near) , just keep it there ,then move the 2# mirror far, and the second dot , if it's not at same position as first dot , adjust screw on 1# mirror. then move 2# mirror back to check again, no need must the two dots at center exactly, near center is ok.


But when I adjust mirror # 1, the distance of both 1st & 2nd dots are just the same. It is just that both dots are in a different location (but then again, the same distance).

This is what I did:
1. I adjust the laser tube
2. Did not do anything with mirror # 1
3. Only adjusted mirror # 2 - NEAR or FAR
4. depending on the placment of the NEAR and FAR dots, I put papers below the laser tube.
5. I repeat steps 1 to 4. And this is the only best I get with NEAR and FAR dots in close distance.

275361

275362

The bed might not be parallel to the gantry. I have to check this using a spirit/bubble level. This could also be the reason why it could not cut at the upper center part of the bed.

Thanks in advance for the tube angle illustration Dave :)

Josh

Dave Sheldrake
11-20-2013, 8:29 AM
Hi Josh,

Looking at the burns that's the front to back angle of the tube, gimme 20 mins I'll draw a pic :)

cheers

Dave

Joshua John Cruz
12-03-2013, 3:16 AM
Hi again everyone,


The emergency stop button of my machine got loose.
Pushing it, turning it clockwise/counter-clockwise are probably the causes. Always do this when starting/turning off the machine.


So what I will do starting now, is leave the emergency stop button ON (just power on the machine using the control panel switch).


Talked to shenhui support and he said that this is fine and just use the Emergency button for emgergency (obviously!hehe)

still trying to find a way to fix this as the screw is loose.

276233

Rich Harman
12-03-2013, 3:13 PM
Hi Josh,

The first mirror height may be out (up/down) but unlikely, more likely is the tube is not firing the beam at mirror 1 at an exact plane (45/90 degrees) that would mean no matter what you do you will always be trying to align a beam that starts off at the wrong angle leading to a move in spot position. Until the tube is bang on to the first mirror you will be chasing your tail :)


The angle of the tube does not matter at all. As long as the beam is aimed at the center of the first mirror the tube can be at any angle. The first mirror steers the beam toward the second mirror. Since the first mirror is fixed all that matters is that the beam is reflected from the center of that first mirror and steered accurately towards the second.

Reci specifically recommends that one end of the tube be slightly higher than the other, something to do with air bubbles in the cooling system.

Dave Sheldrake
12-03-2013, 3:27 PM
The angle of the tube does not matter at all.

Check the geometry in 3D Rich, Tube angle makes a huge difference. The left side (output side) should be higher than the right but can be accomplished by lifting one side of the machine on the adjustable feet.If the emergent beam is not parallel and level with the gantry rail it is impossible to align the spot dead on for the entire bed.

cheers

Dave

Rich Harman
12-03-2013, 3:56 PM
Check the geometry in 3D Rich, Tube angle makes a huge difference. The left side (output side) should be higher than the right but can be accomplished by lifting one side of the machine on the adjustable feet.If the emergent beam is not parallel and level with the gantry rail it is impossible to align the spot dead on for the entire bed.

cheers

Dave

I actually have modeled this in 3D a long time ago. Will have to do again to prove my point I guess. Someday when I have nothing else to do...

Rich Harman
12-03-2013, 4:04 PM
Nah, we can do this with words...

Can we agree that - if the beam coming from the first mirror is parallel with the Y axis, perpendicular to the X axis and contacts the second mirror in the center - that it does not matter what the beam was doing prior to entering the first mirror?

Joshua John Cruz
12-08-2013, 9:47 AM
Hi Rich & Dave,

Your topic is interesting. Been waiting for updates as I am really curious if the angle of the tube would really matter.

According to ShenHui support it matters. If true, then maybe it is the reason why I can't get the 2 dots at the same spot, or even close to 0.5cm. Already cutting acrylic but I am satisfied with the results.

Dave Sheldrake
12-08-2013, 10:16 AM
Nah, we can do this with words...

Can we agree that - if the beam coming from the first mirror is parallel with the Y axis, perpendicular to the X axis and contacts the second mirror in the center - that it does not matter what the beam was doing prior to entering the first mirror?

Yup...spot on, the problem for the typical laser owner will be getting it there with a 3 screw system rather than a gimbal mount. It's the main reason large format flatbeds have the tubes mounted in the gantry to prevent trying to make Millrad adjustments over a 3m long bed length. 3 screw has the inherent problem of adjusting one axis also moves the others, on my bigger flying optics machines I have a 532nm laser that fits into the head and runs backward though the optical train (it's a lot easier to adjust a beam you can see) they are also fitted with ThorLabs Gimbals to make life easier :)

cheers

Dave

Rich Harman
12-09-2013, 2:45 AM
Yup...spot on...

Great! Since we agree to the above I will further claim that I can satisfy the requirements in post #147 with the tube in any orientation* - so long as it is aimed at the center of the first mirror.

* except along the path between the first and second mirrors.

Dave Sheldrake
12-09-2013, 4:15 AM
that I can satisfy

Quite true Rich, the problem is not everybody who reads these forums understands that their new laser has mirrors that move in at least two axis when adjusting the beam. How many new owners are more likely to jack the tube only to find they spend the rest of the week chasing a spot like a demented cat chasing a laser pointer :)

cheers

Dave

Rich Harman
12-09-2013, 3:46 PM
Quite true Rich, the problem is not everybody who reads these forums understands that their new laser has mirrors that move in at least two axis when adjusting the beam. How many new owners are more likely to jack the tube only to find they spend the rest of the week chasing a spot like a demented cat chasing a laser pointer :)


I don't understand you Dave. You generally give very technical answers but in the case of post #140 you dumbed down your answer to accommodate what you believe some people may or may not understand? If you knew that the tube does not actually have to be "bang on" why contradict me in post #145?

If a new user does not understand that their mirrors adjust in two axis, I think they will have a great deal of trouble making a proper alignment.

Not sure what you mean by "jack the tube" - so long as the beam hits the center of their first mirror it won't contribute to their imitation of a demented feline. How much of the week are they going to be spending tweaking the tube thinking that it isn't exactly at a 90 degree angle and concluding that is the source of the trouble with getting the beam aligned?

I think it is better to be technically accurate, to with what a forums level of understanding may be, tell them to get the tube as close to 90 as practical, adjust it so that the beam is dead center in the first mirror, then leave the tube alone and move on. Don't stress about getting it perfect, it makes zero difference. If someone does not understand, I for one am happy to attempt to explain it better.

Jerome Stanek
12-09-2013, 4:00 PM
On mine the mirror that shoots into the the final mirror above the lens was to low. I could get it to hit side to side but not up and down. It would hit low when close and high at the far side. I ended raising both the first mirror and that one to get it to hit in the same plane. so I think the mirrors are 3 axis not 2

Dave Sheldrake
12-09-2013, 4:55 PM
You generally give very technical answers

Indeed but sadly much of the time they only really benefit people who understand them. Something Dan mentioned to me a while ago when I was trying to explain 90 degree Phase retarding mirrors made a lot of sense.


If a new user does not understand that their mirrors adjust in two axis

It's been my experience over the years that the majority of new users actually have very little understanding of what a laser machine is (mostly Chinese machine buyers due to their relatively low cost market entry point). New owner buys a machine and reads about jacking the tube up to remove bubbles (Jack as in like a car hoisting instrument) if they don't realise that moving one mirror axis also moves the other they are going to be back the following week after chasing spots around wondering why they can't get their laser to cut across the entire table. In response I could merrily go off on a 10 page description of the differences between the Transverse modes and how they can be affected by reflective angles or why TEM00 is unlikey or how they are going to get a multimode beam profile along with 500 meg of DWC images of real world beams etc etc I've just got to the stage where it's easier and just as effective to say "Don't move the tube, raise one side of the machine then adjust your beam on the mirrors"


I think it is better to be technically accurate

I'm currently the joint author of a book that's due for release that is indeed technically accurate but has taken more hours than I care to remember to work on and it made me realise (along with Dan's comments) that explaining to the nth degree exactly what Photon Saturation is or what Transverse Modes are in a DC tube is pointless. Those that do understand it already know it and those that don't likely have no desire to if it doesn't help them.


so I think the mirrors are 3 axis not 2

Radially explained they are likely hundreds of thousands of possible moves based on two axis that have effects into all possible axis of movement. Think of it like the two turrets on a rifle scope, you move one for windage and one for elevation, now imagine when you turn one a full turn it moves the other by an unknown amount. It's the reason gimbal mounts are great for mirrors, when you move one axis only that axis moves without affecting the other.

cheers

Dave

Levi Chanowitz
12-09-2013, 5:43 PM
I am happy you are addressing what I think is my problem, My letters do not come out sharp, and I think it is because of the dot hitting different parts of the mirrors.

You are correct to say that most people will not understand what you are saying
However, I do not need to understand the theory, Just please tell me, does the tube need to be on the same plane (level) to the 3 mirrors and at 90 degrees to the y axis? how close is close enough. Please go easy with me, try to use words that are not more than 2 syllables and dont use words like "Photon, Saturation or Transverse Modes"

Rodne Gold
12-10-2013, 3:08 AM
Your letters may not be sharp for other reasons , check backlash compensation.

Levi Chanowitz
12-10-2013, 10:05 AM
the letters are not sharp at any part of the page and even when I engrave them in one direction only and even when I engrave on a slow speed

George M. Perzel
12-10-2013, 10:34 AM
Levi;
Make sure your head is perpendicular to the table-use a good level and square. Also check that lens holder is tight and lens is not jiggling.
Good luck
Best Regards,
George
Laserarts

Levi Chanowitz
12-10-2013, 10:49 AM
thanks. lens is tight, I need to check my head!!

Joshua John Cruz
12-14-2013, 9:44 AM
Hi Levi,
I have the same problem before. I fixed it by adjusting the Z axis. And to avoid adjusting the Z axis when acrylics with different thickness, I cut out credit cards and stack it at the bottom of the blades (the one where you put the honeycomb). It is easy for me to change from 3 to 2 to 1.5mm acrylics without changing the Z axis. Hope this helps.

Joshua John Cruz
12-14-2013, 9:52 AM
Still have no luck with getting the 2 dots on the same (close) spot. Adjusting the tube (of course with the 1st mirror dot at the center) did not help.

So what I did is adjust mirror #2 and 3, not near or far but at the middle and I am happy with the results.

But now I have a problem :(

The laser wont fire anymore for some reason.


Before this happened, I was able to cut several sheets, switched the laser key off, to change acrylic sheets, turned it on, pressed Laser button to check, then it wont fire anymore.


Any ideas what the problem might be?


Also, tried to reset the machine but I get no errors.


no smoke
no burnt marks on the laser tube wires
it just wont fire


Please let me know if you need pictures of specific parts and I will post it here.


TIA! :)

Jerome Stanek
12-14-2013, 12:59 PM
when you adjust the second first mirror to hit the second mirror where is it hitting whe close and where when far

George M. Perzel
12-14-2013, 5:37 PM
Hi
What do you mean by "switched laser key off" ?
Best Regards,G
eorge
Laserarts

Joshua John Cruz
12-14-2013, 8:23 PM
Hi
What do you mean by "switched laser key off" ?
Best Regards,G
eorge
Laserarts

Hi George,

What I mean is the one where you put the key to turn on the laser tube.
I turned this off (just to be safe), changed acrylics, turned it on again, then it suddenly wont fire anymore when sending the job.

Dave Sheldrake
12-14-2013, 10:41 PM
Hi Josh,

Flow switch?
Door switch?
Trigger wire to the tube PSU?
Key switch now faulty?

It's unlikely to be a tube fault (there are other symptoms when a tube fails) but could be one of the above.

Leave the machine turned off at the mains for AT LEAST 6 hours.

Check every screw lock that holds a wire on both the mainboard and power supplies to ensure they are clamping the wires correctly.

Place a strong magnet (NdFeB if possible) on the door switch (if it has one) BE AWARE this will bypass the door safety lock, KEEP ANYTHING and EVERYTHING out of the machine working area when you test fire it.

Locate the water flow sensor in the machine (if it has one) tap it lightly a couple of times to ensure the flow bobble isn't sticking. (also check your water supply for signs of dirt or junk, this can make the flow switch block up and cease working)

If these don't work drop back and we can go into a few more things :)

Did I mention:

Leave the machine OFF for 6 hours first
Keep anything you don't want destroyed OUT of the working area of the machine.

cheers

Dave

Joshua John Cruz
12-15-2013, 1:02 AM
Hi Dave,

Sorry forgot to mention I have a shenhui G460 machine with CW-3000 water chiller.


Flow switch?Don't know where this is.


Door switch?No Door switch


Trigger wire to the tube PSU?Don't know which specific wires. Please see pictures below.


Key switch now faulty? Could be as this is where the problem started as I said above (was able to cut several acrylics - turned off key switch - changed acrylic sheet - turned on key switch - pressed Laser button - suddenly wont fire). But I checked and wires are properly connected.


It's unlikely to be a tube fault (there are other symptoms when a tube fails) but could be one of the above.When I fire the laser before, I can see magenta colored beam but now nothing.


Check every screw lock that holds a wire on both the mainboard and power supplies to ensure they are clamping the wires correctly. - not sure which of the images below is the mainboard but as for the laser tube power supply, I am trying to open it (stripped the last screw, still trying to open it), and check if the fuse is blown. The fuse for the two 220v plugs are fine.


Place a strong magnet (NdFeB if possible) on the door switch (if it has one) BE AWARE this will bypass the door safety lock, KEEP ANYTHING and EVERYTHING out of the machine working area when you test fire it. I am not sure if my machine has a door switch.


Locate the water flow sensor in the machine (if it has one) tap it lightly a couple of times to ensure the flow bobble isn't sticking. (also check your water supply for signs of dirt or junk, this can make the flow switch block up and cease working)
- I believe my machine does not have a water flow sensor. I checked and the water is clean.


If these don't work drop back and we can go into a few more things :)

Did I mention:

Leave the machine OFF for 6 hours first
Keep anything you don't want destroyed OUT of the working area of the machine.

cheers

Dave
Thanks Dave! :)

277159277160277161277162277163277164277165277166

Joshua John Cruz
12-15-2013, 1:30 AM
UPDATE:

Finally able to open the laser tube PSU to check the Fuse and it is not blown.
Is it possible that the fuse looks not blown but actually it's blown?
277167

Sorry for got to mention that the FAN of the laser tube PSU is not spinning.

Rich Harman
12-15-2013, 3:53 AM
You can check if the fuse is blown with a multimeter. Set it to measure resistance.

Your water flow sensor is in pic #2.

Rich Harman
12-15-2013, 4:11 AM
Sorry for got to mention that the FAN of the laser tube PSU is not spinning.

Could be the main switch - the round one that you rotate to turn on. Mine has been quirky for a while now, have to sometimes push in a little while turning to get it to work.

Joshua John Cruz
12-15-2013, 4:30 AM
Checked all 3 fuses (1 for laser PSU and 2 for the 220v plugs) using a multimeter and all are good.
Also checked the wall socket and it is also good.

I thought my machine does not have a water sensor. That is why I get a "water error" something when I forgot to turn on the water chiller and press the "Laser" button. But I did not get any error regarding water, so I would assume that it is fine.

I believe it is not the main switch as well (as I understand, you are referring to the Emergency Stop button). The machine turns on. It just wont fire when I press "Laser".

Thanks Rich! :)

Joshua John Cruz
12-15-2013, 5:38 AM
After hours of troubleshooting...
Found out that...
The power cable... is... broken... LOL! :p
Did not expect it to get broken easily after approximately 40 hours of using.hehe

Replaced with a spare one and now laser fires!

Thanks to all who have helped me and of course to Shenhui support! :)

Dave Sheldrake
12-15-2013, 6:51 AM
Good news Josh :)

For reference as Rich said the flow sensor is the red item with the yellow arrow in picture 2.

Door sensors are usually located on the top of the machine in a position where the door rests when it closes, have a look round the edge of the door for a small magnet, the switch will be located where that meets the machine case when it is closed. If possible try to avoid turning off the entire machine on the keyswitch when swapping out sheets, it's not really required if the door interlock is working. It's possible it doesn't have a door switch on a US supplied machine depending on what the laws are like over there, over here door interlocks/safety switches are a legal requirement and any machine supplied without one would be refused import by Customs if it were spotted as well as red ticketed by a factory inspector / HSE if they saw it on an inspection.(it would also be refused CE marking)

On the pics you will notice some of the wires fit into different parts like power supplies etc inside green blocks, if you look closely at the blocks there will be some very small screws in then, these can work lose when the machines are sent out (although they look to be hot glued in the pictures) so they are one place worth checking if power suddenly fails.

When tubes fail but the rest of the system is till working you will usually get a rather loud ,bright arc inside the rear of the tube area, it's just the power trying to find a new path to ground when it cannot make it through a failed tube, quite scary the first time it happens but not at all unusual just make sure if it does happen at any time that you cut the power by hitting the big red stop button as quickly as you can. While no real risk to you it can damage some of the machines electrical system if it's left to arc for any length of time.

Good to know your running again though :)

cheers

Dave

Jason M Larson
01-10-2014, 3:45 PM
Got my Shenhui G570 two weeks ago after reading threads here for a few months. Got everything setup and mirrors aligned. Started playing with different materials/speeds to build my database, etc.

At one point in laserwork I hit the home button on the Z axis and my work starting moving up towards the laser. Not realizing it would automatically stop itself with the set screw I hit the big red "Stop" button.

Now whenever I try to start a job from laserwork I get the message "Machine Protected Work Paused"

I have checked that the chiller is working and pumping water and flowing through the tube. The motors and laser both work fine when operated manually from the control panel. I have reset the machine and rebooted the laserwork computer a number of times. I have reset all the axis multiple times as well.

I have a support request in to Shenhui but was just wondering if maybe someone on here could help me out a little quicker. Is there any way to get an error code out of the machine to find out why the protection is set?

Thanks!

Dave Sheldrake
01-10-2014, 5:32 PM
Check for a Z axis overtravel limit switch, if that is still making contact the machine won't start.

cheers

Dave

Jason M Larson
01-10-2014, 6:54 PM
Check for a Z axis overtravel limit switch, if that is still making contact the machine won't start.

cheers

Dave

Thanks Dave. That was not my exact problem but I figured it out while examining the overtravel switch.

My problem was silly, it was basically the top was open. When I panicked I somehow had toggled the X-Axis mirror toggle and the top wouldn't close in the now incorrect "origin" position so I was trying to run it with the top open which leads to "Machine Protected Work Paused"

Learning new stuff everyday :)

When the machine resets it goes all the way to the top left, running into the hinge there, and then moves out to origin. I have to make sure the top is open when I turn it on each time. Anyway to fix this?

Hermes Sandoval
01-27-2014, 2:03 PM
I've been looking for an LS900 CPU too, or selling the rest of the pieces to the owner of a gravograph machine, but my location makes that transaction nearly impossible, I'm in Guadalajara, México.

Levi Chanowitz
01-27-2014, 2:27 PM
I sent you a PM

Kevin Looker
02-27-2014, 8:46 PM
Hello all.

I have a Shenhui GH1290 that I received at the end of last year.

I'm trying to get it set up now & I'm loosing my mind getting the mirrors aligned. I think the problem is that mirror #1 (first mirror after the laser tube) is mounted in the wrong position.

When doing test fires in the closest & furthest positions, I can only get coincident burn marks between the 1 and 2 o'clock positions on mirror 2. I've turned the adjustment screws in every conceivable combination which only causes the marks to move apart. Am I on the right track or am I missing something?

Thanks in advance.

Kevin Looker

Levi Chanowitz
02-27-2014, 9:00 PM
look for threads on how to adjust the mirrors
it is very possible that the mirror does not align with the tube. you may need to adjust the tube or mirror mount. It may be a mistake at the factory
good luck!

Kev Williams
03-10-2014, 9:17 PM
No help with mirror adjustment, my Triumph mirrors couldn't be better aligned, right off the boat! That was a nice surprise!


On page 6 began discussion of the "min/max" power settings... not much info in any instructions, but what I found out is, the min power setting is AKA "Corner Power", the power used during decel at corners...

http://www.engraver1.com/erase1/minpower.jpg

Check your machine's display if you're vectoring something with a lower corner power, the "min power" on the display should be the corner power you entered. I've found that min power only applies to cutting, not rastering, at least with my machine. The minimum power setting is the power used when the machine decelerates for corners. I've found roughly 45% of the max power- like the 28 min with 60 max in the pic - works pretty good. It might not be so noticeable when doing thru-cuts, but If for example you're vectoring square borderlines on some wood and the corners are over-burning, turn down the corner power.

On page 8:

There is no electrical connection between the CW3000 chiller and the Laser. The control board on the laser detects water flow through a water flow switch - (its installed in the left hand bottom panel of the laser if you are facing the laser). The water flow switch needs to make contact to enable the controller to allow the laser to fire. Check the water flow switch and the connection from the flow switch to the controller.
Maybe because mine's newer, but my CW3000 has an electrical connection to the laser:

EDIT-- could also be because mine's a BH3000, not a CW3000...? ;)


http://www.engraver1.com/erase1/chill1.jpg


http://www.engraver1.com/erase1/chill2.jpg

As to backlash, AKA 'reverse offset', contrary to the instructions, I have to enter NEGATIVE numbers to get the backlash to zero out. And the goofy mathematical calculation in the instructions doesn't quite work for me. Every time I try a new raster speed I run some quick tests and number adjustments. Right now this is my list of adjustments- And BTW, I have NO idea what "curve disperse" or the circle speed adjustments do?

http://www.engraver1.com/erase1/backlash.jpg

======================

I was reading thru this thread looking for info on 'overdriving' my machine from the factory 500mm/second default max speed. As you can see above, I reset the max to 700mm/sec and have been getting good results. I'd like to see if I can get it to run at 1000 or 1200mm/sec without the steppers skipping...

Levi Chanowitz
03-11-2014, 10:18 AM
this is unbelievable! It is highly unusual
who is the manufacturer? how much did it cost you? what kind of tube do you have?are the letters very crisp?

Jacob Davalos
03-12-2014, 8:13 PM
Hello everyone.

I am looking into buying the Shenhui SH-G460. http://www.shenhuilaser.com.cn/product/1702958401-50330522/60w_laser_engraver_460.html
The measurements say it is 700 MM wide. This is about 28 inches. The reason I am so interested in measurement, is because I need it to fit through a door.

Is the base removable to make it even more "door friendly".

I am also worried about the door that does not fully enclose the engraving area, as I will be running this inside an office using this fume extractor:
http://www.quatro-air.com/sph400-laser_laser-marking.html

I am concerned that with the door not fully enclosed, it will render this $2,000 USD air purification system useless as vapors and odors will escape from the opening on the door.

Thanks in advance for all your answers, the forum support and experience with shenhui systems is pushing me ever closer to purchasing this machine.

Jacob Davalos
03-12-2014, 8:20 PM
Hello everyone.

I am looking into buying the Shenhui SH-G460. http://www.shenhuilaser.com.cn/produ...raver_460.html (http://www.shenhuilaser.com.cn/product/1702958401-50330522/60w_laser_engraver_460.html)
The measurements say it is 700 MM wide. This is about 28 inches. The reason I am so interested in measurement, is because I need it to fit through a door.

Is the base removable to make it even more "door friendly".

I am also worried about the door that does not fully enclose the engraving area, as I will be running this inside an office using this fume extractor:
http://www.quatro-air.com/sph400-las...r-marking.html (http://www.quatro-air.com/sph400-laser_laser-marking.html)

I am concerned that with the door not fully enclosed, it will render this $2,000 USD air purification system useless as vapors and odors will escape from the opening on the door.

Thanks in advance for all your answers, the forum support and experience with shenhui systems is pushing me ever closer to purchasing this machine.

Dan Hintz
03-13-2014, 5:41 AM
If the filter system is doing its job, air should be pulled in from around the door edges, not escaping outwards.

George M. Perzel
03-13-2014, 8:06 AM
Jacob;
Shenhui uses what I call "box on box" construction. Legs can be removed from top box and back box containing laser tube can also be removed if necessary. If the front and rear have "pass thru" areas which are not covered, ask Shenhui to add removable panels as safety precaution as you have small children whose eye level is same as opening. They will do this at no charge.
As Dan said, a decent exhaust system should eliminate fume problem.
Best Regards,
George
Laserarts

Khalid Nazim
03-13-2014, 9:45 AM
Jacob,

As George said, you can dissassemble the machine easily for transporting inside your shop/office. I did the same as I had to move the machine to my basement. The pictures below show the dissassembled machine.

Regards
Khalid
284543284544284542

Jacob Davalos
03-28-2014, 8:17 PM
I am all over the place choosing a machine. I have engraved with a chinese machinem and with an epilog, and the differences are TREMENDOUS. I cannot afford a western system (unless i finance a GCC, but then it is 3x the cost of a chinese machine)

What if I get a chinese machine with a Synrad Firestar laser?

I talked to the GCC rep here in the US and he said that glass co2 tubes from one pulse to the next never generate the exact same laser spot, and common sense would tell me that in order to get consistent engraving, the pulse before the current and the pulse after must all be the same.

Is there a huge difference in engraving quality between say 1 60w chinese glass tube and a 30w synrad tube? Since my business will rely on engraving to generate income, is this difference worth the costs?

Is it silly to have a chinese machine with an american laser?

As you can see I need some guidance.

Rich Harman
03-28-2014, 9:02 PM
A Chinese machine can engrave just as well as a mainstream machine. The difference is that a mainstream machine can do it much faster - and that may very well make the extra cost well worth it.

Dave Sheldrake
03-28-2014, 9:07 PM
Hard call, from a technical point of view the RF source will produce a far better quality beam however it is still coupled to a Chinese optical system with it's own inherent issues.

The GCC rep is right but for the wrong reasons, take something like a GSI SLC glass tube, that will produce a far better spot than any of the mainstream western RF units but costs 10x as much as a normal DC tube and 3x as much as a metal RF unit. What he is referring to is the transverse mode of the beam, DC tubes tend to run multimode far more so than RF units but when bolted into a Chinese optical system and chassis there will be very little difference (other than price) between a Synrad RF in a Chinese machine and a Chinese tube in a Chinese machine.
A ZX series tube from EFR will produce as beam of equal standard to an RF run through a Chinese system (and cost a lot less than an RF source)

I love Chinese machines, they make me a lot of money but I'm also under no illusions that they can match Western machines for engraving quality off the shelf.

Is it just engraving you wish to use the machine for or do you intend doing much cutting?

cheers

Dave

Jacob Davalos
03-28-2014, 9:38 PM
I will mostly be engraving on wood veneer with PSA backing, but then I need to cut that veneer after it is engraved. But engraving will be the majority.

Andrei Georgescu
04-11-2014, 5:44 PM
Don't know if anyone did this already but I moved the table switch to the upper panel on mine. It's easier to reach this way.
286996286998

Corina Hibberd
04-26-2014, 6:58 PM
Hi all

Can anyone tell me what focal point distance needs to be for a X1390 10 0wattLaser Engraver. The machine came with a plastic tool for the setting but unfortunately it's been misplaced. I need to know the size of it so I can make a new one. We're engraving trafolyte material.

Many thanks,
Corina

Dennis Christensen
04-30-2014, 4:40 PM
I am curious about John Banks' post saying that the lens should be convex up. My manual specifically states convex down. Just wondering what other people say about it and if it makes any difference. I have included a picture from my manual.288444

Dave Sheldrake
04-30-2014, 5:01 PM
The manual and the person that wrote it are plain wrong Dennis :)

Google this search term "Final Lens Orientation (The Definitive Answer)"

cheers

Dave

Peter Berry
05-01-2014, 2:06 PM
Good evening guys, I am based in the UK and am thinking of buying a "LS 1290 PRO Laser engraving and cutting machine" I currently own a Epilog Zing 16, 40 watt, I have had this for 14 months and am more than pleased with it, problem is I now need a larger cutting bed as my business has grown and I am losing business because of the size of the Epilog bed.
Does anyone here own a LS 1290 PRO that they could give an opinion please, I am thinking of buying from HPC Lasers in Halifax yorkshire.
Regards
Peter

Andrei Georgescu
05-01-2014, 2:07 PM
I must try that tomorrow. It might be a stupid question but will the focal distance change if I turn the lens over?

Andrei Georgescu
05-05-2014, 2:47 PM
It's not working for me. I get horizontal lines on the engraved surface.

Bryan Puls
06-05-2014, 12:05 AM
John.....what are you referring to when you say "x-slop"? I just posted a thread inquiring about issues with dots outside the cutting area and distorted edges. It seems to be an issue the smaller the image is. Also, you mentioned 400 mm/sec or lower for raster. I have a Hurricane laser, Ivan 80W. Is this seriously all I can expect for speed on this laser and still get a quality engraving? My post/thread showed images of my problem and that was occurring at 200 mm/sec. Any thoughts, ideas, comments??? Thanks!

Julian Ashcroft
06-08-2014, 2:20 AM
Has anyone tried Laserworks V8 and know what the differences are between that and V6? If it's an improvement, is it worth getting? I don't know however I would go about obtaining a copy if it was.

Andrei Georgescu
07-16-2014, 4:17 AM
Does anyone know the new e-mail address of Robert Wang? I want to place another order but they keep using different e-mails.

John Noell
07-26-2014, 9:22 PM
Having retired and walked away from my business and my Epilog, I want a replacement toy to make things (esp. wood inlays). Will a Shenhui G460 work for this level of detail? It needs to engrave away the parts around the inlay and then engrave out where the inlay goes. The two parts are forced together and glued, in a press (Then sand away the backing of the inlay to reveal the pattern. This technique came from a post here at the Creek.) Another Epilog would be nice but I can get three 80 watt Shenhuis delivered to my door here in Fiji for the base cost of an Epilog Zing 16 at 40 watts (much less anything nicer).
293773293774

Rich Harman
07-26-2014, 11:50 PM
Will a Shenhui G460 work for this level of detail?

This is a test/comparison I did when I first got my Shenhui, using 3mm MDF.

293780293781

Jacob Davalos
07-27-2014, 3:08 AM
it will achieve the same level of detail, it will just do it a bit slower.

Jacob Davalos
07-27-2014, 3:13 AM
I have found that when using the chuck type rotary (irregular) when i change the step settings, the radius of the object I am about to engrave is the exact number that will work. No more "guessing". Get some calipers, measure the diameter of the object and divide by half. If using a shot glass for example without a constant diameter, take an average reading of the area you would be engraving and divide by half to get radius.

I own a gweike using RDWork 8.0.25. Far superior to versins of RDCAM. No more "glove" to drag around image, it has CURSOR BARS. Can be downloaded here: http://en.rd-acs.com/down.aspx

David Somers
07-30-2014, 1:24 PM
Good morning everyone!

A fair number of you have suggested working with Blanca in sales at Shenhui. The reason given was that orders placed through her seemed to be more closely followed and checked before shipping, better quality control in other words. And she also helped more if there were problems with the order once it arrived.

In helping another person I found out that Blanca is no longer working with Shenhui. She is now working for Liaocheng Ray Fine Technology Co.,ltd.

Here is all her contact information. I hope this is helpful. Folks here did seem to like working with her. You don't often see Chinese laser sales reps mentioned by name unless there is a problem so the fact that she was recommended so much seemed significant.

I should add I have no clue about the quality of Liaocheng Ray Fine Technology lasers and their service reputation. For what it is worth, Blanca says they are even better machines than Shenhui. Not that she is biased, being their new employee and all. <grin> She also mentioned she has similar access and influence on the manufacturing floor as she had at Shenhui so she feels she can provide a similar level of service.

Blanca Yan
Mobile: +86-15806808779
Email:yanblanca@yahoo.com
MSN:lasercnc@outlook.com
Skype: blanca610616
Machine video link:
http://u.youku.com/user_show/uid_blancayan


Dave

John Noell
07-31-2014, 2:12 PM
Rich, that looks pretty good. Good enough that I just wired the $$ to Shenhui for an G460 with 80 watt RECI, spare lens, mirror, and belt, with upgrade to CW5200 chiller. Total with frieght to Fiji was $3329. So far, dealing with John Wang there has been very easy. (He was trained by Blanca.)

I liked my Epilog but it went thru too many tubes (despite regulated voltage and 24/7 air con for constant temp). And while I got some good support, I also had some really bad (and unecessarily expensive) and rude support. (So much so a dealer tried to help and got nowhere.) Once I have this machine I'll update.

Rodne Gold
08-07-2014, 10:58 AM
The real key man there is Yarde Feng , he also left them to work for another laser co , he was R&D and support etc - I would trust any machine he has a hand on/in
you can reach him on skype . Yarde Feng

Ross minetti
08-14-2014, 10:12 PM
HI all, I am so happy to have found this forum . I have purchased a chinese 100w laser engraver cutter that is currently sitting in Shanghai china and will be on a slow boat from china on Monday to Brisbane Australia. This is the one I have purchased. http://keyland.en.alibaba.com/product/1872933150-222196317/hot_sale_CE_ISO_CO2_USB_affordable_kqg_4060_1060_1 390_1612_laser_cutting_machine_with_low_price.html . I got the 1060 which has bed of 1000mm * 600mm. I also got the rotary attachment for it as well. Cant wait get it here. I have a very steep learning curve ahead of me lol. The reason I bought a bigger machine is that my wife has her own wedding and events hire business. and we will be engraving and cutting all sorts of stuff for that plus the millions of ideas I have in my head to make it pay for itself. I have looked at other online forums but have not seen the amount of information that flows thru here on other forums. I have enjoyed reading all the forums here and the helpful answers as well. let me know if you want pics of it when it arrives here re unboxing. Oh yeah I am planning on using CorelDraw for the laser. Any suggestions as to what version is best all round would be helpful . Thank you in advance Ross.

David Somers
08-14-2014, 11:29 PM
Congratulations Ross! Pretty exciting!!!

A question for you. Have you used any of the vector drawing programs out there? In other words, do you already have experience with Illustrator or Sketchup or a version of Corel, or any other vector drawing package?

Dave
PS...when you get a chance, you might put your laser model and any other fun toys you have i your signature, and also add your home city and country, or just the country if you want to your location. That helps folks when you post questions.

Dave

Ross minetti
08-15-2014, 2:01 AM
Dave in a word NO lol. I have someone who is an expert in CorelDraw willing to teach me as long as I let him use my laser haha.

David Somers
08-15-2014, 10:13 AM
Ross! That is a good deal!! Your friends help will help reduce you learning curve a bunch!! Go through the Corel thread in the forum too. There are things you will do in a corel file bound for the laser that you would not normally worry about if you were using Corel for more normal pursuits.

I tend to stay with more modern versions of packages. But then my job ends up working with security issues in computers and older versions tend to have security holes in them that can cause problems for us. That is less of an issue at home to some extent. Does the unit that you bought suggest a recommended version of Corel? Older versions tend to be much less expensive than the new ones, and to be honest, I worry much less about issues with Corel and security than I do with Adobe products. Maintain your firewall and keep your OS fully patched and you should be fine. A good antivirus/antimalware package is important too, but without the other items in place they are little help. Your firewall and patching are your best defense.

There may also be a real advantage in sticking with a version your friend is most comfortable with so you can get the most out of him.

Congrats again! Let us know how things go with this! You will have lots of ears!!

Dave

Khalid Nazim
08-15-2014, 10:39 AM
Can I use RDWORKS for Shenhui instead of RDCAM?

Ralph Y Thorne
09-03-2014, 7:06 PM
Joy Yang has confirmed that both he and Yarde Feng are no longer employed at Shenhui Laser as after service engineers. Both are very professional and I have had good experience consulting with each one of them.

Yarde is with Liaocheng Longtai Laser. Joy is starting his own company providing sales, service, parts and advice. Joy can be contacted via email or Skype. wm03511@hotmail.com haifengshangu@gmail.com Skype: wm03511

As Joy puts it, they are "hardworking buddies"

Rodne Gold
09-04-2014, 10:10 AM
I endorse following Yarde..he goes the extra mile and then some , smart fellow. I was with him at the factory in china for 2 days.

Bec Fogarty
09-05-2014, 6:07 AM
Its here Its here my Shenhui arrived today! We have nicknamed her bumblebee and are hoping to start comissioning her on Monday. Anything I should know? We have the G690-600 with 80W reci tube. I bought an extra power supply and lens on the recommendations in here. Great advice by the way! we have unpacked the macine from the crate but that is as far as we have gotten.

Would love to hear about any kinks we may encounter.

John Noell
09-05-2014, 2:41 PM
Congrats Bec! My G460 w/ 80W RECI is on the (slow) boat so I am looking forward to hearng how your set up goes. (BTW - you might want to add you some info about machines and location to your signature.)

Ross minetti
09-06-2014, 7:51 AM
Hi all well time has been draggibg by .My laser will finally be delivered to my house next Friday cant freaking wait even taking a dy off work to check it out make sure no damage has occurred from shipping.I will be posting pics and from what I have read here on the forum I will be taking my time making sure everything is set right. Measure twice cut once . Is it Friday yet ??? More to come ....soon

Bec Fogarty
09-07-2014, 2:08 AM
Alrighty I have been doing my homework in preperation for commissioning our laser. Hoping to do it this afternoon so I can play tomorrow.

This video is very helpful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKtIDyUQOCE&index=1&list=WL However is not quite up to date as all of our pumps ect all plug into the back of the machine instead of a power board. I am seeing this as a really good thing as they all have chinese plugs on them not AUS.

One of my first observations is the manual that came with our machine I am guessing is out of date, as our machine has come with the tube already installed. All we have had to do is push the waterpipes onto the labelled glass ports.

secondly theres no information on mounting the water filter in the chiller. I am sure we can work this out though.

The mounting of the exhaust piping does not attach to the back of the machine like in the manual it goes directly to the underneath of the machine.

Grounding well that something thats completely in the hubbies court LOL

Just waiting for my hubby to come home so we can get started and then will be the interesting task of aligning the mirrors.

George M. Perzel
09-07-2014, 11:50 AM
Bec;
Congrats on your purchase. DO NOT try to align the mirrors unless really necessary as the mirrors were aligned at the factory in final test. Get everything else going and make sure you can pulse the beam before touching any mirrors. Machine should not have been shipped with tube installed so hope it wan't damaged during shipment. Good Luck
Best Regards,
George
Laserarts

Bec Fogarty
09-08-2014, 2:01 AM
George wish I had read your post before I headed out to the shed this morning!

It seems we have the beam all lined up now but the dot its making is almost 5mm in size. its running the 80w reci tube. SHould it be this big? How do I make it smaller.

The machine did not come with any power/speed setting guidelines for materials any tips where i can find this?

George M. Perzel
09-08-2014, 7:45 AM
Hi Bec;
Need some clarification-is the dot 5mm at the cutting surface, i.e, through the lens? If so, make sure you have a lens in the head and that its not upside down. Concave surface should be down. Then make sure your focus distance is correct-use the focus stick to set the distance or set up some material on a slight incline and run a test line of text.
Power/speed settings are more trial and error than cold fact. Tell me what materials you are planning to use and I will give you some guidelines.
Best Regards,Geor
geLaserart
s

Yoeri Nachtsmid
09-08-2014, 8:36 AM
Dear members of the forum,
I've been following the forum now for some time and it has really helped me out greatly with getting to understand the ups and downs of purchasing and working with a Chinese laser engraver/cutter. Thanks for everyone sharing their info here!

This week I want to purchase a G Weike or Shenhui laser with the following specs:

Laser power: 80W or 100W RECI tube
Power supply: AC220 - 50HZ
Working area: 1200x900mm


I want to include the following features/spares:
- Cooling Chiller CW5000
- auto up and down platform
- red dot
- auto focus
- honeycomb table
- aluminium knife table
- spare mirrors
- spare laser tube 80W/100W RECI brand
- spare power supply
- stepper motor for XY
- stepper motor for Z
- stepper driver

My purpose for the machine is to do laser cutting of multiplex/plywood/MDF up to 12mm and precise engraving of text.

My questions are:
1. From what I get from the forum, G Weike and Shenhui are both good value for money. Any reason to go for one or the other?
2. How much power does the laser need to cut up to 12mm multiplex/plywood/MDF?
3. In my understanding precise engraving requires you to sometimes change lenses, which size lenses should I include in my purchase?
4. Are all of the spares/features necessary, or should I remove/add some?

I hope you guys can help me with the above questions!
Thanks in advance!

Yoeri
the Netherlands

William Dillon
09-11-2014, 12:15 AM
Hi All,

I just ordered SINMIC 400x400 laser engraver. While waiting for the slow boat from china, I've been thinking about the infrastructure that I need to support it. It has a 50W laser (generic glass tube), which is, of course, water cooled. I know that the wisdom of the thread so far is that 40W lasers don't really need much more than a 5-gallon reservoir and a recirculating pump. But, I tend to go overboard. So, I'm trying to collect information on the thermal characteristics of the system. I'm "conversant" in thermodynamics, so I'm planning on calculating the heat flow from the losing gas through the glass laser tube, into the water, etc.... What I need to know is what the thickness of the glass used in the laser tubes is? I can use the characteristic glass thermal resistance and its area to calculate the total thermal resistance. Also, what current/voltages do the tubes use? Looking at the specs for the laser power supplies, I calculated that the laser uses about 250 Watts (for a 40 Watt tube), and if I'm assuming 40 watts are laser, then 210 Watts are heat. Does this sound right?

Thanks in advance.

Dave Sheldrake
09-11-2014, 9:17 AM
Hi All,

I just ordered SINMIC 400x400 laser engraver. While waiting for the slow boat from china, I've been thinking about the infrastructure that I need to support it. It has a 50W laser (generic glass tube), which is, of course, water cooled. I know that the wisdom of the thread so far is that 40W lasers don't really need much more than a 5-gallon reservoir and a recirculating pump. But, I tend to go overboard. So, I'm trying to collect information on the thermal characteristics of the system. I'm "conversant" in thermodynamics, so I'm planning on calculating the heat flow from the losing gas through the glass laser tube, into the water, etc.... What I need to know is what the thickness of the glass used in the laser tubes is? I can use the characteristic glass thermal resistance and its area to calculate the total thermal resistance. Also, what current/voltages do the tubes use? Looking at the specs for the laser power supplies, I calculated that the laser uses about 250 Watts (for a 40 Watt tube), and if I'm assuming 40 watts are laser, then 210 Watts are heat. Does this sound right?

Thanks in advance.

Umm miles out,

First you need the efficiency conversion factor for the input supply to the lasing resonator.
You will need to know what mix they used in the resonator reserve (its not pure CO2),

The current depends on both ambient temperature and level of Photon saturation as well as the excitation state of the gasses, (at 50% power using cold flat gas the emitted heat is less than in a tube that has gas that has been excited for X period)

There are a HUGE number of variables that while possible to calculate to get all of them you would be looking at ^ time to get all the possibles and even then they may only exist in that state for Y time (Entropy)

Much of the information you need to calculate the heat value is impossible to get out of China and while measurable you would need to destroy the tube to get it so rendering it worthless as the next tube will be different.

Great as a thought experiment but worthless in any practical value.

cheers

Dave

William Dillon
09-11-2014, 5:10 PM
Umm miles out,

First you need the efficiency conversion factor for the input supply to the lasing resonator.
You will need to know what mix they used in the resonator reserve (its not pure CO2),

The current depends on both ambient temperature and level of Photon saturation as well as the excitation state of the gasses, (at 50% power using cold flat gas the emitted heat is less than in a tube that has gas that has been excited for X period)

There are a HUGE number of variables that while possible to calculate to get all of them you would be looking at ^ time to get all the possibles and even then they may only exist in that state for Y time (Entropy)

Much of the information you need to calculate the heat value is impossible to get out of China and while measurable you would need to destroy the tube to get it so rendering it worthless as the next tube will be different.

Great as a thought experiment but worthless in any practical value.

cheers

Dave

I really don't think it needs to be as complicated as all that. For a first-order approximation, because energy can neither be created nor destroyed, if a laser supply is running at 15,000 volts and produces 20mA of current, we have 300 watts. Some of that may be laser, but if I assume that 100% of it is heat, I'm still in the neighborhood. To me, that has tremendous practical value. Knowing that it 297.3 Watts would be interesting, but useless. :)

Dave Sheldrake
09-11-2014, 7:04 PM
I really don't think it needs to be as complicated as all that. For a first-order approximation, because energy can neither be created nor destroyed, if a laser supply is running at 15,000 volts and produces 20mA of current, we have 300 watts. Some of that may be laser, but if I assume that 100% of it is heat, I'm still in the neighborhood. To me, that has tremendous practical value. Knowing that it 297.3 Watts would be interesting, but useless. :)

In that case

Beijing EFR

ZN Series

ZN-1250:
Length: 1250mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 80 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 95 Watts
Working Current: 26 Ma

ZN-1450:
Length: 1450mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 100 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts
Working Current: 28 Ma

ZN-1650:
Length: 1650mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 130 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 150 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

ZN-1850:
Length: 1850mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 150 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 180 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

F Series:

F2:
Length: 1250mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 80 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 95 Watts
Working Current: 28 Ma

F4:
Length: 1450mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 100 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

F6:
Length: 1650mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 130 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 150 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

F8:
Length: 1850mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 150 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 170 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

F10:
Length: 2050mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 180 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 195 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

RECI

W2:
Length: 1120mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 80 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 85 Watts
Working Current: 27 Ma

W4:
Length: 1400mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 100 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts
Working Current: 28 Ma

W6:
Length: 1650mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 130 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 150 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

W8:
Length: 1850mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 150 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 180 Watts
Working Current: <30 Ma

I'm guessing you will want strike voltages and run voltages as well Will?

cheers

Dave

William Dillon
09-11-2014, 10:21 PM
In that case

I'm guessing you will want strike voltages and run voltages as well Will?

cheers

Dave

Yah! That would be awesome! :)

I found a CAD file from RECI that I was able to derive some of the internal measurements from the tubes. Is the majority of the volume of the laser tube really air??

Thanks!,
- Will
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/webkit-fake-url://1e804402-a7a3-4432-a14d-8dc6b5638111/application.pdf
296516

Bec Fogarty
09-13-2014, 3:36 AM
What are your solutions for getting minimal burn on the edge of your works? I am working with leather which entails huge careful clean up so you dont dirty the skin.

I have heard you can hook up a compressor that puts more air though the head. Is this correct? If so how can I do it? are ther better ways?

John Noell
09-13-2014, 2:09 PM
I always used air assist (compressor blowing air across the engraving spot) with leather. Also, if you put blue masking tape (painter's tape - lifts off cleanly even if left on for days) over the cuts it will keep smoke and dust off the material.

John Noell
10-30-2014, 3:04 PM
I've had a few days with the Shenhui 460. Not nearly enough laser time (due to building a new house), but enough to say I love this machine! It has many advantages over my old Epilog Mini 45W: My Epilog does not have a way to estimate actual job time, it does not simulate the path (so you can see odd jumps and fix them in advance), no light in the cabinet, no button to draw a frame around the engraving/cutting area to make sure it is in the exact right place, and no job storage in the machine itself. Eighty watts digs a LOT deeper into wood and pearl shell than 45 watts. :)

I miss having a head I can move into position by hand. Using the keypad to move it results in inexact placement, unless you slow the speed way down (with several keypad presses). Then, when you want to use the ‘frame’ function, it is still slowed down so you may need to speed it back up. A bit awkward. One of the posts on the ‘creek’ said new mainstream lasers are “faster” than they were 10 years ago, but I am unclear on what that really means. More pulses per second? If we already doing up to 1200 DPI (which I never had a use for myself) what is the new difference? As for overall speed of the head, yes, the maximum is much less than the Epilog. However, except Flexibrass, none of the materials I used to use could be done at very high speeds anyway. Coconut shell (my main substrate) had to be cut and engraved at a speed of “8%”. This laser can go faster simply because it has more power.

Set up was a piece of cake. Alignment was close enough to use as it came. However, the lens and mirrors were filthy and had to be thoroughly cleaned. I am still learning Laserworks (LW)/RDCAM but it is not quite as bad as I feared. (No help file!! None!!!) When starting in CorelDraw, it is a bit annoying to have to export separate engraving and cutting layers from CD, but it only takes a minute or less so it is hardly a burden. I have not found any rubber stamp mode so you need to manually mirror-image the drawing (a single click in LW). AND, no shoulders. However, the test stamp I made works perfectly so I think shoulders may be overrated.

The chiller (5200) and dinky aquarium-style air assist pump have been totally adequate so far. The exhaust fan is noisy, but now it’s outside, so not much of an issue. The overall size (of the cabinet) relative to the bed is HUGE, compared the Epilog

I wish the manual had highlighted one critical section. To actually send a job to the laser, get your drawing into LW (via import or done in LW), then click “download” button (in lower right section of LW screen). Then use the keypad to position and start it. (LW also lets you completely control the laser and run the job directly, without using the keypad. But, it is hard to see into the laser if you are seated at the computer and not standing at the laser!)

Also be aware that there is no magnetic switch on the lid for safety. It lases away happily even with the lid up! Be careful!

Lastly, I have to say the build quality looks very high and it is STURDY.

John Noell
11-04-2014, 10:06 PM
I have run into a major design fault in the Shenhui 690. The position of the exhaust pipe (flexible 6") conflicts with the chain that drives the table height. If you lower the table, the chain rubs against the plastic ducting. When I pointed this out to the salesman (John Wang), he replied, "yes,we know the smoke pipe problem." When I asked what I can do about it, he said, "make a short stick support or make a line to hung." I pointed out that if you do that (and its awkward to do) and raise the table, the "stick" is no longer high enough to stop the rubbing. If you lower the table it breaks the exhuast off. He then said, " bigger machine better such as 1290."

I cannot recommend this machine if you need to engrave tall things.

Mike Aller
12-28-2014, 12:42 AM
~~~~ path/file error unless you run X5 as administrator or alternatively change the permissions on the Program Files (x86)\Corel\CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X5 folder to full control..


THANK YOU!!!! I was pulling hair until I found this simple fix. TY TY TY!!

Ray Scott
01-04-2015, 5:25 PM
Make sure to NOT use a water pressure sensor. You need to use a water flow sensor. Don't use the flow thru style that looks like a pipe with reed switch glued to the side... Use the red&brass unit. If it fails... It fails in the off mode.

The chiller has a built-in version of the same flow sensor... Smaller, but works great. If you have a chiller with interlock wires, USE IT!!! Rabbit Laser USA has schematics of how o interlock the safety wires to the laser power supply. That set of schematics is priceless to anybody with a Chinese laser machine.

Ray Scott

Ray Scott
01-04-2015, 5:30 PM
Rabbit Laser USA has has a great tutorial for doing the laser beam alignment. If you have a better method... We would love to see it.


Ray Scott

Ray Scott
01-04-2015, 5:40 PM
I am pretty sure the premium lenses are made in Singapore. Sorry, I just wouldn't trust the general --- from eBay... Unless you have established trust with the seller.

Ray Scott

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-16-2015, 5:23 PM
Hi Ray, My laser just quit working, everything OK, but no fire in laser tube, fairly new...plenty of water. I have the red and brass flow sensor. I thought maybe it quit working and shut off the firing...... Would it be logical that if it was the problem, that by bypassing it...(connecting the two wires leading into it) the laser would fire..... (it doesn't by the way)...but I'm wondering if once it shuts down.... if there would be something else I would need to do to get it working again...I have a 50 watt chinese laser, the one that starts with an S he he.

Rich Harman
01-16-2015, 6:42 PM
Jeffrey, you already have a thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?226222-Need-help-with-Chinese-Laser) started about this issue, several people have replied. You should be following up in that thread. Also, more details about the machine, software and main board that you are using would be helpful. Don't make a game of it. There are many people here that will do their best to help you.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?226222-Need-help-with-Chinese-Laser

Roy Sanders
05-29-2015, 5:11 PM
Hello, does anyone on this thread own a Nice-Cut laser. I have had mine 5 months. I am just beginning an at a hobby rate. I plan to retire soon and use it more. I am having difficulty with the limit switch. it is an optic switch.314568 ,the solder is lifted. I will put fresh on, but what if that does not work. Does any one know where to buy the complete circuit board. I really do not wish to learn how to etch circuit boards. I also want a mentor in learning to engrave. I turn ink pens and what to engrave per customer wishes. I also want to engrave on wine bottles, i have the rotary with this. it is a 16x16 work surface. it uses laser draw and i use corel draw x6

Thanks

Roy

Bert Kemp
05-29-2015, 10:54 PM
Roy start a new thread this is old and a different subject no one will see this here.

Joseph Shawa
08-31-2016, 4:03 PM
I have a 6040 from NiceCut. You can get limit switches anywhere...AliBaba
I even have extras if you need it still.

josephshawa@gmail.com