Delta 18-900L -- Any reason not to?

[Matt Meiser]

I just sold my OWWM drill press because I want something a little larger and something that has a table raising mechanism. Craigslist has been devoid of any OWWM drill presses even meeting most of my criteria for the past couple months and I'm going to end up buying new. I've all but decided on the Delta 18-900L--any reason not to?

My plan B is the Steel City model which my preferred source also has in stock. Its a little more basic, but a little over half the price. Haven't read anything bad about the DP, only the company and to be honest some of the same things have been said of the current incarnation of Delta.

Not really considering the PM2800 based on reviews--unless quality has improved?

[Jerome Hanby]

I was sold on the Delta just on the reports and still am after buying one. Solid machine, plenty of power, and the travel length is great! If you are really stubborn ... and have a shop crane, you can actually assemble it by yourself <g>.

[Curtis Myers]

I got a Delta 18-900L back in November 2011. Works absolutly perfect. Run out on mine is < 0.005 through out the quil travel. What sold me is the 6" quil travel along with the upper and lower stops. This combination allows me to drill various thickness of stock without having to adjust the table height very often. Both the upper and lower stops have a quick action and a micro adjust.
I'm glad I spent the extra $$$ and got the Delta 18"

All the Best
Curt

[Steve Bishop]

Once you get past the price, its all good.
Had mine since Thanksgiving with no problems.
I did need help getting the head unit on the post, its heavy and awkward.

Steve

[Cary Falk]

Matt,
I purchased the Steel City DP about 5 years ago when they first came out. It was a great drill press for the money at the time. I think they have gone up considerbly since then. I never had an issue with it. If I was in the market today I would give the Delta a hard look. It gets great reviews. I think both Steel City and Delta are questionable as companies as far as parts availabilty but for different reasons. I think Delta has a slightly better future. I wouldn't even look at the PM due to all of the negative reviews.

[Matt Meiser]

Got a shop crane so that will be good. I'll actually use it for once--haven't had a need since I got it, of course.

[richard poitras]

Matt, I purchased one about 6 months ago from Tools Plus ( best price I found ) and Delta currently has a $100.00 rebate on them as well if you didn’t know. I give it all positive marks and would buy it again. If you can’t find one locally to look at I am in Saginaw and you are more than well come to come try it out and see if you like it.
Richard

[Matt Meiser]

Amazon's price is better than Tools Plus. But I'm going to buy from Woodwerks since I'll going by there one day next week.

[Mark Burnette]

Only had my 18-900L a couple weeks so consider that with my opinion :)
Rock solid. Quiet. Smooth. Ribbed belts & spring-loaded idler = very fast & easy speed changes. No runout. Good chuck. I thought the laser would be a joke but I love it. Replaceable insert is a great idea & thoughtful of Delta to make it 3/4" deep (adjustable). Table height adjustment very easy to operate & can be done from the front (my DP at work requires a walk behind). The table can flip completely over. Spin it 90deg & rotate it on the column & you can clamp a workpiece to it & drill into the endgrain of a long-ish rail. Handy for drilling dowel holes or a mortise.

Minor negatives: T-slots are handy for attaching home-made fences but the DP should include a couple T-nuts since they are a non-standard size & not available from Delta. LED gooseneck light often turns on by itself when the drill is turned on (sensitive to the surge I guess).

[richard poitras]

I see they are up to $799.00 now :eek: I am glad I got the sale price on mine $675.00 with the Biesemeyer Fence included.

[Matt Meiser]

That's after rebate!

[John Coloccia]

It's probably the only new DP under $1000 I would consider.

[richard poitras]

That's after rebate!

Correct $799.00 after the $100.00 rebate

[Van Huskey]

This is what you do:

Buy Delta 18-900L
Buy 3ph 1hp motor to fit
Buy Hitachi VFD
Buy Lee Valley or similar table
Buy high precision keyless chuck
Buy $10 Chinese non-contact tach to set up your speed table for the VFD

Now for ~$1250 you have the best new DP you can buy for the money, all the bells and whistles that the PM has with the heavier build of the Delta. Thats my plan anyway.

[Matt Meiser]

Who bought the Biesemeyer fence? Made your own for the stock table? Using an aftermarket table like the Woodpecker I already have?

The VFD would be sweet but maybe down the road.

[Ryan Mooney]

Geez Van, sounds complicated :rolleyes:

Personally I'm pretty sold on the belt tensioning system the 18-900L has compared to the older "move the motor" style. It just plain works really well (you do have to be careful to get the belts aligned properly, but that's not a big deal). It sort takes the edge off of not having all of the fancy shmazzle Van's talking about :D

The quill stops are also very nice as is the depth guide on the handle (ok its not 100% accurate, but its handy as heck).

Get the fence, its nice, no need (imho) to add another table on top (at least I haven't seen a reason).

Haven't had the light turning itself on problem (knock wood!)

Mine measured 0.001 runout retracted and 0.003 runout fully extended which - imho - is fantastic.

I managed to assemble it myself without a shop crane (but I'm really stubborn - that head is HEAVY, not recommended).

[Paul Cahill]

This is what you do:

Buy Delta 18-900L
Buy 3ph 1hp motor to fit
Buy Hitachi VFD
Buy Lee Valley or similar table
Buy high precision keyless chuck
Buy $10 Chinese non-contact tach to set up your speed table for the VFD

Now for ~$1250 you have the best new DP you can buy for the money, all the bells and whistles that the PM has with the heavier build of the Delta. Thats my plan anyway.

Very clever use of VFD - hadn't thought of that. Not sure it is necessary as others have said, but nice all the same.
Paul

[david paul miller]

I found it easy to assemble by my self by installing the head to the horizon column, then lifting

[David Kumm]

This is what you do:

Buy Delta 18-900L
Buy 3ph 1hp motor to fit
Buy Hitachi VFD
Buy Lee Valley or similar table
Buy high precision keyless chuck
Buy $10 Chinese non-contact tach to set up your speed table for the VFD

Now for ~$1250 you have the best new DP you can buy for the money, all the bells and whistles that the PM has with the heavier build of the Delta. Thats my plan anyway.

Or Van, you could buy a used Millrite for $1250 and I'll give you an Albrecht to go with it. Dave

[Van Huskey]

Or Van, you could buy a used Millrite for $1250 and I'll give you an Albrecht to go with it. Dave

For those that think the 3phase motor and VFD are overkill, I kinda agree but once you have used a VS DP it is hard to go back to belt changing even if they are easy.

I like the LV table of the "Delta" fence mainly because of its dust collection and it isn't much more than the fence alone.

David, I have lots of used options that are open, but if my shop is finished and no used DP the Delta plan will be a go. I looked at a couple of PM 1200 VS DPs earlier this week when I TRIED to buy a Northfield jointer (heartbreak thread to come when I can get over watching the smoke pour out of a DD motor!). They were cherry but somewhat overpriced, not really but more than I need to spend on a DP. The Millrite is on my radar but will need a plan to make it 100% wood working compliant.

[Matt Meiser]

Crazy, but if I was low-price shopping, I could actually get the best deal at....GRAINGER! Their price is very good to start and I get 10% off across the board as a Michigan Farm Bureau member. I think I stick with Woodwerks though just in case I get a dud. I trust they'll take care of me.

[Daniel Smith]

A couple of weeks ago, my local Rockler were clearing out their stock of 18-900Ls for $749. Add in the rebate and the deal was too good to pass up, especially since I was in the market. Regardless if you install the head horizontally or vertically, the thing is a beast. I managed to get it together and on a mobile base by myself, but I wouldn't want to do it again. No complaints so far, but it hasn't seen much use yet.

[Dan Hintz]

I found it easy to assemble by my self by installing the head to the horizon column, then lifting
That was my approach... I got some odd looks from the wife (though this, in and of itself, is nothing new) when I asked her to hold the mobile base from shifting while I tilted the DP up onto the base. It's heavy but not outrageously so.

[Matt Meiser]

How stable is this thing on a mobile base? I've always viewed a DP mobile base as an iffy proposition but this does seem to have a bigger than normal footprint. What base are you using?

[Dan Hintz]

There's nothing in normal operation that will tip that thing over. I used a standard-duty Jet mobile base for the rolling aspect. The DP's metal base is attached to a 3/4" piece of play cut a couple of inches larger than the metal. I used some shorts screws and fender washers to attach the DP to the board, with the screw heads under the board. That way I could cut thick screws to the length I wanted without having unused threads sticking up. Since the screw heads and washers stuck out the bottom of the ply about 1/4", I used a second piece of 3/4" and drilled some shallow divots using a Forstner bit. So technically, it's two layers of 3/4" ply as the base, but the two pieces aren't connected in any way.

Edit: I take most of that back... I did the double ply thing with my bandsaw since the screw heads would have been too close to the corners of the rolling base. The DP used a single layer of 3/4" ply, and the screws were far enough away form the corners as to not cause a problem.

[Daniel Smith]

For a mobile base, the manuel suggests a piece of 3/4 inch plywood that is at least 3 inches larger than the base on each side (it gives the dimensions, but I forget what they are right now). The piece I had was a little narrow, but I used it anyways with Rockler's mobile base. The press is bolted to the plywood and the plywood bolted to the base. In use, I don't think that it's any less stable than it would be on the floor. There is a little bit of give in the plywood, but nothing that makes me concerned that it might tip over. I am a little more careful moving it about since it is so top heavy, but I haven't felt like it was on the verge of tipping.

[Matt Meiser]

It would be nice to have it on a base. Its not real often that I need to move it, but the more stuff I make mobile in my shop the easier it is to keep clean. I'll make a base like the one I recently made for my shaper if I do.

[Jerome Hanby]

Who bought the Biesemeyer fence? Made your own for the stock table? Using an aftermarket table like the Woodpecker I already have?

The VFD would be sweet but maybe down the road.

I bought the Biesemeyer from a fellow 'creeker. For what I paid I don't think i could have purchased a better fence. It's not what I would call perfect, the adjustments seem a little crude, but this is a drill press. I think for any task I'm likely to need it for it will do fine. If I need super fine control, i have an x-y cross vise I can bolt on...

[Jerome Hanby]

I must have read my manual wrong, I thought it meant you should add that plywood if you were not going to bolt it to the floor. That's what I did and it doesn't seem to have had any negative effect and I guess it does give it a bigger base. Doing this for the mobile stand makes more sense, I wondered about weakening the plywood at the mount points by having to countersink so far to clear the head and washer...


For a mobile base, the manuel suggests a piece of 3/4 inch plywood that is at least 3 inches larger than the base on each side (it gives the dimensions, but I forget what they are right now). The piece I had was a little narrow, but I used it anyways with Rockler's mobile base. The press is bolted to the plywood and the plywood bolted to the base. In use, I don't think that it's any less stable than it would be on the floor. There is a little bit of give in the plywood, but nothing that makes me concerned that it might tip over. I am a little more careful moving it about since it is so top heavy, but I haven't felt like it was on the verge of tipping.

[Bruce Page]

Matt, giving your ability to fabricate you should be looking for a Bridgeport instead. ;)

[Ryan Mooney]

I have mine on a double layer of 3/4" plywood and an HTC3000 base (the 3000 doesn't "jump and thump" when you put it on/off wheels like the 2000 does, I wouldn't use a 2000 with this :eek:) I didn't really countersink much, just enough not to worry about clearance.

I did seriously look at the Grainger store brand (Dayton) 17" (5PHC3) and 20" (5PHC4) and Optimum 16" (B28H aka grainger 5TPP7) floor presses (actually make a comparative matrix of about 30 dp's when I got the 18-900) but there are none local so I couldn't touch it and see how the fit and finish were. The Optimum looked like a premium press, but lots more $$. If you can stop and see them, I'd be interested in hearing what you think anyway, even though I'm no longer in the market :D

What I really wanted was an Ellis 9400, but couldn't justify it in any way shape or form and the top end speed was a bit low for small bits (its primarily a metal DP and weighs 675lbs!).

[Van Huskey]

Matt, giving your ability to fabricate you should be looking for a Bridgeport instead. ;)

Speaking of his fabrication skills, if I were Mike and wanted a mobile base I might build one and use machine leveling casters. But in general I don't like them for DPs.

[Brent VanFossen]

Minor negatives: LED gooseneck light often turns on by itself when the drill is turned on (sensitive to the surge I guess).

My light turns on like that, as well. Not that I can see this would ever be a problem.

[Brent VanFossen]

I love mine, and would buy the same again. I've had it about 6 months.

The belt changes are easy. The table is easy to use. The quill travel is the best on the market for similar machines. The depth stop is something I use all the time, and it's solid and works well.

If you have a Woodcraft nearby, you might check with them. I was in the one here last night, and they will be having a 10% off all powertools (with certain exceptions) sale on March 2 and 3. That should be on top of the $100 rebate. Expiring March 1 is an offer for a free fence with purchase.

I built my own fence using 3/4" MDF and a pair of Magswitch large mounts. It sticks just fine to the steel table. Did I say I love this machine?

[George wilmore]

I have had my delta drill press since Oct. great piece of machinery.

[Steve Meliza]

I noticed on Rockler.com that all Delta drill presses are out of stock and it says new models are expected in March. That could be a reason to rush out and get proven models while you still can or hold off and see if what comes next is good.

[Matt Meiser]

Well...just bought one. I remembered one more local dealer that I've never really dealt with but know others who have. They just got one in stock yesterday. Now they are out of stock again. :D Picking it up this afternoon or in the morning. :D :D

Best part--I just payed $879.79 after sales tax for it, so $779.79 after I get the rebate. :D:D:D

Now to finalize my decision on a fence. Easiest would be just ordering the Delta/Biesemeyer. The only thing holding me back is that I'd like a second flip stop but the fence doesn't even show up in Delta's parts search. Plus I've had a tall homemade fence in the past that occasionally got in the way. I'm also thinking about just buying components from Kreg and making something similar. Their miter gauge fence and a couple of the flip stops they include with the beaded face frame system coupled with a piece of aluminum angle from the hardware store would be almost identical to the Biesemeyer but with available parts.

[Jerome Hanby]

Now to finalize my decision on a fence. Easiest would be just ordering the Delta/Biesemeyer. The only thing holding me back is that I'd like a second flip stop but the fence doesn't even show up in Delta's parts search. Plus I've had a tall homemade fence in the past that occasionally got in the way. I'm also thinking about just buying components from Kreg and making something similar. Their miter gauge fence and a couple of the flip stops they include with the beaded face frame system coupled with a piece of aluminum angle from the hardware store would be almost identical to the Biesemeyer but with available parts.
Not much to the stops on the Delta/Biesemeyer fence, be easy to make additional ones.

[Randy Rose]

Who bought the Biesemeyer fence? Made your own for the stock table? Using an aftermarket table like the Woodpecker I already have?


Picked up 18-900L today @ the Hartville sale. $750 after rebate for the DP, $55 for the B-fence ( back ordered) Stocked up on Freud & DeWalt blades.
A micro gloat perhaps, but I`m happy:)

[Matt Meiser]

Got mine home today too but it's still in my truck for the night. Tomorrow after I help my daughter with her science fair project I'll work on getting it set up. I also picked up some materials for a mobile base for it but that will come later because first I need to weld up a stand for my daughters lathe.

[Randy Rose]

I found it easy to assemble by my self by installing the head to the horizon column, then lifting

Plus 1 Seems like the path of least resistance.

[Matt Meiser]

Matt, giving your ability to fabricate you should be looking for a Bridgeport instead. ;)

I don't need a mill--a friend of mine bought my dad's so I have access to it over there if I need it. :D I am inheriting my dad's metal lathe (well, technically my brother is but I'm going to keep it here, possibly forever since my brother doesn't have room) but need to figure out space issues before it moves over here.

[Jerome Hanby]

Well I have discovered one "down side" to the Delta. It's long 6"+ travel is great...if you have drill bits over 6" long <g>. Think I need to shop for some longer brad points.

[Van Huskey]

Jerome, that qualifies as a first world problem...

[Matt Meiser]

I got mine all set up today. Pretty nice. It's quiet and virtually vibration free. I didn't note any fit and finish problems. The belt change is really slick. Mine has about .001" runout using a 1/2" pin that came with my router.

I took Van's advise and ordered a nice precision keyless chuck and arbor--1/2" since it goes down to 1/32 instead of 1/8 like the 5/8 and I don't really need the big end capacity.

I also ordered the Biesemeyer fence option just now. Someday I might build a table for it similar to the Woodpecker table I had before but big enough to take advantage of this machine's capabilities.

I also decided against building a mobile base for it--the recommended platform is just huge! Bigger than my jointer/ planer in fact.

[Matt Meiser]

T-slots are handy for attaching home-made fences but the DP should include a couple T-nuts since they are a non-standard size & not available from Delta.

Based on data from McMaster Carr and measurements of the t-slots, it would appear that a 5/16" square nut would fit the slots nicely. I'm planning to stop by the hardware store today and pick a few up.

Unfortunately 9/16" x 1/4" bar stock isn't a readily available size because it would be quite easy to make nuts with any thread to fit if it were. I might have to order some 3/4"x1/4" and cut it down on a friend's mill. I'd like 1/4-20 nuts to fit.

[Tim Orr]

Page 11 of the manual claims:

T-SLOTS
The drill press table is fitted with two T-slots (HH) Fig. 20 for use with various drill press accessories (stop blocks, fences, or clamps). Use 5/16" T-bolts or 1/4-20 hex head bolts when attaching your accessory to the table.

[Matt Meiser]

Yeah...1/4-20 doesn't fit so well. I didn't have an T-bolts.

Edit: but a #10 washer has a 1/4" hole and is 9/16 OD so that should work on a 1/4 bolt as long as the head doesn't spin.

[Tim Orr]

Don't you love it when the manual and the tool don't match? Always adds to the fun of a new tool....

[Mark Burnette]

Page 11 of the manual claims:

T-SLOTS
The drill press table is fitted with two T-slots (HH) Fig. 20 for use with various drill press accessories (stop blocks, fences, or clamps). Use 5/16" T-bolts or 1/4-20 hex head bolts when attaching your accessory to the table.
I have used the square 5/16 nuts and they fit perfectly. I suspect the slots are designed for this nut--since it's a woodworkers DP rather than a machinist DP. I did buy some 5/16 T-nuts and was able to make them fit after a few minutes narrowing both the base width AND the web width on my grinder & sanding disk. Not worth the effort. Hex head bolts aren't very practical because in most cases there's no way to hold the head from spinning in the slot. For short attachments like a flat table you might use 5/16 steel toilet bolts. Use a magnet at the store to check--they look very similar to the brass ones and there's nothing on the packaging that describes what they're made of. They don't have as much strength at the head (thin) as a nut but are fine for light duty use.

[Todd Bin]

Just out of curiosity, what are the drill presses over $1000 to consider?

[John Coloccia]

Just out of curiosity, what are the drill presses over $1000 to consider?

Clausing, for example.

There's the Jet JDP20-EVS for another.

There's lots out there for industrial style drill presses. There's a lot of junk on the low end. There's very little in between in the new market. Most people will not have the will, nor really the need, to shell out $1500 on a drill press, but for those of use who do there is nothing really in that range to span the gap between poor and world class. The 18-900 isn't bad, but it's missing some key features that I'd like to see. Still, it's reasonable for the price.

[Van Huskey]

Buying new and money is no object I wouldn't look any farther than Clausing as John mentions, some truely great presses. Besides some of the larger Jets and maybe Ellis the PM 2800 in the only other one. The PM has a lot more bells and whistles than the Delta but the Delta is built heavier, as I mentioned with some additions the Delta can have all the bells and whistles of the PM for not much more money.

Quite frankly unless you are going to spend Clausing money NEW, the plan I outlined for "pinping" the Delta gives the "best" WWing press under $2,000 for significantly less than 2K.

[Will Overton]

My 18-900L is "Shipping Soon" from Amazon. The rebate and the fact that my CC is giving 5% rebate on Amazon purchases this quarter made it a decent deal. I couldn't think of any reason not to buy this one.

[Mark Burnette]

I wanted to measure the runout and I found what a slippery slope that can be. All readings were taken with the belt removed & spindle pulley rotated by hand.

Starting at the beginning so to speak I removed the chuck & taper & rigged up a dial indicator to measure the runout right on the spindle. Here it measured .0005" at quill zero & at 6" extended. Nice.
I put back the chuck & measured .0015 at the chuck nose.
I mounted a machined 1/2" rod in the chuck and got .003" there. Crummy jaws?
Not sure about the quality of the rod I chucked in a 3/8" deep socket and got .004".
Thinking about what must be the truest round shaft I grabbed a brand new 1/2" endmill and got <.0005"
Then I clocked it 90 deg. and measured .001".
Another 90 deg. and got .005"--so obviously the endmill isn't as straight as I thought and it's possible for the bend to cancel out the chuck error.

Here I gave up trying. It's good enough.

So...what's your runout? LOL

:p

[Ryan Mooney]

Runout: similar on the business end. 0.001 retracted and 0.003 fully extended (no guarantee on the trueness of the shaft I was using..).

For interest sake can you measure how concentric the pulleys are? My front pulley is noticeably off center (0.008 or so? its been a while since I measured it.. the other two were about spot on) - this doesn't affect the operation at all and imho highlights another benefit of the floating tension system as it keeps the tension steady even with the slight variance on the front pulley.

Re mobile base: Just measured mine and its 25" front to back and 19" side to side inside the wheels. The wheels are on the sides, and add ~2" on either side. It seems to be quite stable and I'm not really worried about it at all. In my opinion its more stable than it was on the regular base without adding a wide plywood base under it or bolting it to the floor.

Re: Dream drill presses: The Ellis and Arboga (jet) do look pretty nice and the clausing is a no brainer.. In general those are a whole different class of machine than the Delta though, you're talking ~600+ lb and an extra $2000-4000 drill presses there so its not really a fair comparison. If I had room I'd have seriously considered the old camelback that showed up locally last month (it was pretty cherry looking; I didn't go to see it in person). What I really want now is a decent blacksmiths post drill. Having a tap head would be convenient as well...

When I was looking and bought the 18-900, the short list of comparable drill presses that weren't excluded for one reason or another was:

Optimum B28H aka grainger 5TPP7
Dayton 5PHC3
steel city 20520
palmgren 80174
general.ca 75-260
delta 18-900l
JET JDP-20MF
JET J-2550
Dayton 5PHC4

I haven't personally seen most of these, just adding the list for amusement sake.

[Mark Burnette]

For interest sake can you measure how concentric the pulleys are? My front pulley is noticeably off center (0.008 or so? its been a while since I measured it.. the other two were about spot on) - this doesn't affect the operation at all and imho highlights another benefit of the floating tension system as it keeps the tension steady even with the slight variance on the front pulley.

I hadn't put away the indicator, etc, so why not...
I got .001" on the bottom of the front pulley and .004" at the top edge.

[Matt Meiser]

Some updates. I was away for 10 days on a work trip but got an early start on the weekend.

First, I ordered a precision keyless chuck from Shars (http://www.shars.com/products/view/626/13212quot_J33_High_Precision_Keyless_Drilling_Chuc k) based on a recommendation from Van. I ordered a 1/2" chuck because I don't have any bits bigger than that and it allows me to use smaller bits than the 5/8" version would have gone to.

Second, I picked up a full-sheet baking sheet from a foodservice supply (GFS if you have one locally) for about $10 to use when I'm drilling metal and using oil to keep the mess off the table.

Third, I got the Biesemeyer fence. I have to say at this point I'm kind of regretting the purchase of the fence. I'm not real impressed with the lever locks which are really sensitive to the angle. I'm going try adding a washer or o-ring under the last washer to see if that makes it less sensitive since there will be some give. I'm also not real impressed that changing modes requires a screwdriver to move the mounts. At least they should have had socket heads so they'll last a little longer. Guess I can spend a few bucks on that too. But what could be the real deal-breaker is the flip stop. I frequently use my drill press to drill holes for door hinges. Having two flip stops allows setting the machine up for both the top and bottom hinge. The part system isn't even aware of the fence.

[Van Huskey]

Kinda ironic about the coolant tray, now folks like you need to be screaming for a "hybrid" with dual tables, one for metal and one for wood. I am beginning to realize why we complain about dril presses, they would have to make a different model for ever single one of us!

[Jerome Hanby]

Having two flip stops allows setting the machine up for both the top and bottom hinge. The part system isn't even aware of the fence.

hate to hear that. Tracking down another stop was on my to-do list.

[Matt Meiser]

I've got an email into Delta on that one. I'll let you know if I hear back. If not I'll start bugging them publicly on Facebook.

[Matt Meiser]

Well, took bugging them publicly but I finally got a response. Flip stops are not available separately. They are "looking into it" but that would mean at a minimum they are many months away. IMHO, this is a deal breaker on the fence since you can't set up left and right stops for, say drilling hinge holes from the top and bottom of doors without doing 2 different setups. I'm thinking about buying some parts from Rockler to build something similar which is what I should have done in the first place.

Good luck if you damage or loose part of your fence. Apparently they don't support it!

Here's what I'm looking at from Rockler:
1 of 2-1/4" Multi Track (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22075)
1 of 1-1/4x2 Brackets (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22163&rrt=1)
2 of 2-1/4 filp stops (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22153&site=ROCKLER)

Add some misc. hardware and for the same price as the Delta fence you get a functionally equivalent and EXPANDABLE system for about the same price.

[Van Huskey]

Hopefully, when they get their parts department moved and setup this and other parts related issues for Delta will disappear.