Newbie - carving and shaping a rifle stock with hand tools

[Casey Robertson]

Hi guys! Just recently found this forum and it's been like drinking through a fire hose so far. I'm an avid airgunner and target shooter and wanted to get started in woodworking by trying to build a rifle stock. I don't have a lot of money to invest initially but figured since I have time in the evenings I might as well get working on a project to advance my non-existent skills.

So the question is - which hand tools would be best to start with? For the inletting I'll use a router and drill press but I'm most concerned about the shape. A number of rasps look good but I also read about planes, spokeshaves, scrapers etc. Don't know where to begin so figured I'd ask here. Attached is an example of what I'm trying to build. The inletting consists of a 1.25" half-round channel for the air tube. Thanks!

Casey

223664

[Maurice Ungaro]

Hmm...looks to be an Anschutz style stock!

[Casey Robertson]

Hi Maurice,

Similar yes. This stock happens to be from an English company called Ripley but same function.

[Bruce Haugen]

I'm working on a stock for a Weirauch HW55. As you anticipate doing, I let in the action and barrel with a router (very, very fiddly work) and drill press. A bandsaw helps a lot. The rest is coming along slowly with rasps, chisels, spokeshaves, and scrapers. If there was another tool to use, I'd use that, too. Unfortunately, I chose baltic birch plywood for the stock, mostly because it's what I had and because it's really stable. I say "unfortunately" because that stuff is really hard. It helps a lot to have a really good idea of what you want and where you're going, even a model from which to take measurements. If you're starting from scratch, it's hard to get those dimensions right.

[Casey Robertson]

I'm working on a stock for a Weirauch HW55. As you anticipate doing, I let in the action and barrel with a router (very, very fiddly work) and drill press. A bandsaw helps a lot. The rest is coming along slowly with rasps, chisels, spokeshaves, and scrapers. If there was another tool to use, I'd use that, too. Unfortunately, I chose baltic birch plywood for the stock, mostly because it's what I had and because it's really stable. I say "unfortunately" because that stuff is really hard. It helps a lot to have a really good idea of what you want and where you're going, even a model from which to take measurements. If you're starting from scratch, it's hard to get those dimensions right.

Those rifles are really nice. If you have any tips on using the various tools or any pictures please share them if you have time. Have you seen the American Vintage Airguns forum? Lots of info about the HW55.

[Prashun Patel]

If you're just starting out, I'd get a couple quality rasps - at least a coarse one. Stewart MacDonald's site has 'Dragon Rasps' that are relatively inexpensive high quality rasps. A rasp has very little learning curve vis-a-vis a spokeshave. It's not as sexy, but way more flexible. No tearout, no sharpening.

The only 'downside' is that it takes a little more sanding after.

[Casey Robertson]

If you're just starting out, I'd get a couple quality rasps - at least a coarse one. Stewart MacDonald's site has 'Dragon Rasps' that are relatively inexpensive high quality rasps. A rasp has very little learning curve vis-a-vis a spokeshave. It's not as sexy, but way more flexible. No tearout, no sharpening.

The only 'downside' is that it takes a little more sanding after.

Cool, thanks! How do you feel about 'vintage' rasps on ebay? I've done some reading and guys seem to like older rasps better than new ones. But I guess buying on eBay the condition is a crap shoot. I think I saw the Dragon rasps on a YouTube video about guitar building. I'll check them out.

-Casey

[Bruce Haugen]

I got the rifle without a stock from a friend who found two of them at an antique shop. Apparently, they were from a batch that was used at a high school ROTC program in Texas. No one seems to know why they came without stocks. Unfortunately, mine also came without sights. Anyway, all I have to go on is the barrel and receiver and pictures. I just glued up 4 pieces of 1/2" Baltic Birch ply and started with the most basic of outlines of what would be a stock. I left everything squared up for routing out recess for the barrel (upside down on a router table). I can't possibly try to imagine doing this by hand. Once the stock was roughed out, it was time to start stock removal for everything else. I can't imagine doing that by machine. HOWEVER, that birch is very hard stuff. It's taking a long time. I fully anticipate that there will be mistakes made and that it will be necessary to do some things over again. That's the nice thing about using BB. It already looks like something has been glued on.

The only advice I have is that when you do the routing for the barrel, take your time and make practice cuts first. Those are very tight tolerances, but it's possible to do with trial and error.

Thanks for the info on the American Vintage Airguns forum. I hadn't heard of that. Most of the info I have on the HW55 is from a couple really good write-ups on Pyramid Air.

[Chuck Nickerson]

Cool, thanks! How do you feel about 'vintage' rasps on ebay? -Casey

Vintage rasps on ebay are NEVER sharp. Boggs Tools in Paramount California sharpens rasps for about $.30 per inch.
I round up 20 - 50 at a time to spread shipping costs. $1 file or rasp + $3 sharpening + $3 Skrooz-on handle gives me
a better than new file for $7.

[Casey Robertson]

Bruce,

Cool story on how you found those. Very sweet old rifles. Here is a link to a great history of the HW55 from one of the most knowledgeable guys:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/393389/message/1110335114/HW+55+History

The main list of forums is here - awesome resource:

http://www.network54.com/Index/47796

[Casey Robertson]

Thanks for the heads up on that Chuck. So if it's 'name brand' (I'm still learning what the good old brands are) there is a decent chance that Boggs can refurb it OK? Maybe I'll give a few a shot and see.

[Jim Koepke]

Casey,

Welcome to the Creek. Your profile doesn't include a location. If you are in the Pacific Northwest I think there will be a Lie-Nielsen tool event in Seattle on the 24th & 25th this month. These are a good place to see and try a lot of the tools.

The previous posts pretty much sum it up as to tools used for making handles. Planes really don't come into play unless you have to dimension or flatten the wood before you start to shape it.

One person suggested a band saw. The band saw is one of three powered tools I use on a regular basis.

Carving tools like gouges can also come in handy for detail work.

Buying rasps on ebay can be a real crap shoot. One thing I have noticed is a lot of the same new rasps from China being listed. Many of these are coarse cutting and need to be followed by sanding. The more expensive rasps in the finer ranges can be used to leave a surface that looks like it was sanded. One of the ways to cut is to lightly move the rasp while drawing toward or pushing away from yourself. With a fine toothed rasp, this can leave a finished surface.

Rifle stock making is a woodworking specialty of its own. If there are gun shops or clubs in your area you may find help by talking to someone there.

Post some pictures of your work if you can.

jtk

[Prashun Patel]

Casey- I've gotten my rasps sharpened by Boggs. If you buy used I'd definitely use them. if you buy new, you might not need it.