PDA

View Full Version : 100 Grit



Doug Herzberg
02-12-2012, 6:58 PM
I've never named a piece, but it seems appropriate, thanks to Jim Burr. This is the piece of beetle kill Ponderosa pine I asked for help with earlier. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?181574-Help-with-split-Please#post1872272

I credited Bill Donahue as my inspiration, but I went back and looked at his NIP postings and realized I shouldn't compare my work to his. I guess I was thinking of a champagne flute or something.

223550223551223552223553

About 5-1/4 x 8 x 3/32 with one coat of spray lacquer (with a run or two). Thanks for looking. And thanks for your help.

All hail the power of 100 grit.

Curt Fuller
02-12-2012, 7:11 PM
Doug, that's a beauty. I've often wondered why more people don't turn pine, especially Ponderosa. It gets some wonderful colors in it from the bugs and the blue fungus. This piece really shows off the blue streaking. I wonder if it would be as translucent as the NIP if you turned it very thin and gave it the oil soak. One thing about living in Colorado Springs is you'll never run out of Ponderosa Pine to experiment with.

Roger Chandler
02-12-2012, 7:11 PM
I like that form...........nice work Doug.

Harvey Ghesser
02-12-2012, 7:33 PM
Congratulations, Doug! Very well done and the fix is perfect.

Nate Davey
02-12-2012, 7:40 PM
That really came out nice, Doug. Were you able to get it translucent?

Bernie Weishapl
02-12-2012, 7:55 PM
Great looking piece Doug. I have had several pro turners at demo's say sandpaper is your friend and a tool. If you need it use it.

Steve Schlumpf
02-12-2012, 8:06 PM
Nice work on the vase Doug! Looks plenty thin to me! I happen to be one of those folks who likes the blue streaks that you can find in pine - just something unique! This piece has a real nice form and great coloring! Nice work!

Kathy Marshall
02-12-2012, 8:32 PM
Great looking vase Doug! I like all the color variations.

Jamie Donaldson
02-12-2012, 8:42 PM
Side grain pine would have to be paper thin to exhibit translucence, the reason that most pines are turned in endgrain or funnel shapes to fill the grain with thin opaque or clear finishes.

Harry Robinette
02-12-2012, 8:43 PM
Nice work Doug. Remember to clean your tool when done the guck thats in the sap is nasty to clean up after it gets hard.

Allan Ferguson
02-12-2012, 8:52 PM
Lots of blued pine in this area. I have not turned any but have used it for chests. You turning looks good and keep on trying new things.

Jim Burr
02-12-2012, 9:51 PM
Well done sir!! Looks amazing with the finish on it!!

Baxter Smith
02-12-2012, 10:08 PM
Nice work Doug. The staining is quite pretty!

Jon McElwain
02-12-2012, 10:11 PM
Doug,

I like that form - pleasing lines and everything curves just right! I've got a large piece of Ponderosa from up in the hills that I've got spalting right now. I might have to have a go at a form like this with it.

After a year of sitting around, was this log still pretty wet?

steven carter
02-13-2012, 9:16 AM
Well done! Interesting form and the pine looks great!

Doug Herzberg
02-13-2012, 10:53 AM
That really came out nice, Doug. Were you able to get it translucent?

Nate, that was my original goal, but after all the splits in the original thread, it was so full of CA I didn't think it would take oil, at least not evenly. I have some more of this log, so I plan to remove the punky part on a piece before I rough a blank and try again.

Doug Herzberg
02-13-2012, 10:59 AM
Doug,
After a year of sitting around, was this log still pretty wet?

Jon, it was dry and I was getting a lot of tearout, which is why I was messing around with LDD. I'm not sure I understand that process completely. If you turn it after it drip dries, you get a face shield covered with detergent and a nasty taste in your mouth. If you let it dry too much, it's like you never did it. I cored it with a forstner bit and then hollowed the first three inches or so before I decided to fill it with the LDD and let is sit overnight. At first the cutter was all foamy with soap, but by the time I finished hollowing, the shavings coming out were just damp.

I also soaked the endgrain with DO just before turning to try to reduce the tearout.

I wouldn't let it "spalt" too much. Mine was just rotten on the bottom side. I had it off the ground, but winter snows were deep enough to reach it.

Doug Herzberg
02-13-2012, 11:08 AM
Thanks for all your kind words. I was ready to write this off as #8 on my shelf of shame, but was able to save it after the splits, with help from several here. We were at friends for dinner last night and I was going to put a glass vase inside to hold water and fill it with cut flowers as a hostess gift, but the fetching, but sometimes self-centered Mrs. Herzberg decided she wants it for herself for some reason. The hostess just got the flowers.

I'll probably redo the lacquer and use it as an excuse to buy some kind of sanding device to reach the bottom. I found out this is the limit of my hollowing tool's reach as well, so I may have to go shopping in that department.

Doug Herzberg
02-13-2012, 11:23 AM
How was it for flatwork, Allan? I had planned to ask a neighbor with a sawmill to slice this up for me, but he got busy at work. Another friend cleared a lot of these (not beetle kill) when he was building his home and paid to have them milled. He stickered and stacked them for a couple years, but they all warped badly.

John Keeton
02-13-2012, 1:03 PM
Doug, looks like whatever you did worked very well! Nice piece of work and I like what the finish did with the color.