What blade for resawing 8" pine?

[Anthony Whitesell]

I'm in the middle of a project and need to resaw a whoole bunch of eastern pine up to 8" wide. I have a Timberwolf 3/4" 0.032" 3tpi PC blade. I thought that would do the trick from what I read. It cuts like a hot kinfe through butter up to about 6" wide. As the boards approach the 8" mark they get progressively more difficult to cut.

What blade would you suggest? And why isn't this one fitting the bill?

[James White]

Anthony,

For better advise. You may want to list what saw you have.

James

[Anthony Whitesell]

I knew I forgot something. I have the 2HP Grizzly G0513X2. I am not suffering any bogging. The feed rate slows and gets difficult. Though the is unused, it has been in the basement since I bought the saw a few years back. The pine is rough cut and dried at the mill but stacked outside uncovered and has been in the basement since I purchased it two weeks ago.

[Jay Jolliffe]

I just re sawed 12'' mahogany with the same blade & it did a great job....

[Van Huskey]

Gullets are plugging. You need fewer TPI maybe in the 1.3 TPI range and preferably a skip tooth blade with a good amount of set.

[Anthony Whitesell]

1.3 TPI? Or 1-3 TPI? The blade is a 3TPI and has a kerf of almost 1/16" by the calipers.

I've wanted to try a Woodslicer but I think that would be going the wrong direction. The woodslicer is 0.22" kerf and 3-4 TPI. Timberwolf makes a 2TPI 1/2" 0.032" Alternate Set and a 2-3TPI 3/4" 0.25" kerf. Neither opening the kerf more, but both providing less TPI. I would think that a larger kerf would mean more material removed and thus the need for even larger gullets. I only have 4 blades total so I don't mind ordering something if I can hedge my bets that it will solve my problem.

[Van Huskey]

1.3 but AFAIK you are going to have to go to a 1" band for that like the Lennox Woodmaster C (carbon). Lennox has a Flexback in 3/4" wide with 2tpi. You need a large set to keep it from gumming up with all the pitch.

The Woodslicer has little or no set and a very thin kerf so as you thought going the wrong way. I am not a fan of TW blades so I don't know them that well but the standard in the industry leads one to assume the .025" (I assume you did not mean .25) and .032" is the gauge not the kerf, the kerf is wider and not mentioned in specs nearly as often.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I'm not so sure about the Woodmaster blade. It takes all I have to tension the 3/4" 0.032" gauge blade. I don't know if I or the saw has enough strength to tension a 1" 0.035" gauge blade.

I found one place to get the blade and it's very inexpensive, but I can't make the minimum order on one blade alone. How is your supplier?

[Anthony Whitesell]

After thinking about it, I'm not sure the blade is brand new. I can recall recall resawing the 2x6s for the lumber rack and making some bowl blanks for my father. When I first attack the board the blade instantly jumps to the right. With a point fence (which I don't like) I can't get the blade to cut straight. It would appear the blade is kaput, especially on the left set teeth. I put on the 1/2" 4TPI blade and it cuts much better. Too many teeth for a decent feed rate, but it doesn't take any pressure to make it cut like the old 3/4" blade.

I'm in the market for a 2 to 3 or 2-3 tooth count blade. I'm game for the Woodmaster C, but haven't found a good source yet. All suggestions welcome.

[Jim Finn]

I resaw a lot of softwoods. Red cedar mostly. I use a 1/2" woodslicer on my Go555 and it works well for me. These blades do dull after a while so I buy them 4 at a time.