Shooting Boards and Planes

[John Edwards]

Hi folks,
Going to put a shooting board on my list of jigs to make. One for doing the long grain edges for edge glueups.

Any comments, suggestions or links anyone could recommend?

What type of plane are you folks using?
I’ve heard or seen everything from a LN (#9) Miter plane, a #5 Jack, #7 Jointer or even a 140 Skew block plane recommended.
Perhaps the type of plane isn’t as important as making sure it is 90* to the edge. But I`d like to dedicated a jig/tool to shooting board use.
Thanks for your help.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

John, why do you want a shooting board for long grain? Most people just use a nr. 6 or 7 plane to prep edges for glue ups. A shooting board is usually for trimming end grain either at 90 or 45 degrees.

[Roy Wall]

John, why do you want a shooting board for long grain? Most people just use a nr. 6 or 7 plane to prep edges for glue ups. A shooting board is usually for trimming end grain either at 90 or 45 degrees.
I won't talk for John, but I find more control with the shooting board.... To create a slight "hollow" in the glue edge by starting/stopping an inch or so between the ends of stock. I use #7 or #62...

[Don Martindale]

John, I was using a shooting board long before I owned a jointer, & still use one when I bookmatch instrument backs & tops. I either use a Japanese style plane that I made, a #4, or a #6. I use those because I made sure that the sides were dead on 90 degrees, but I have heard of any size that you happen to like, & suits what you're working. I find that a shooting board helps keep things lined up. Plus, even if your plane is off a little bit, if you shoot the boards as bookmatched, they will mate perfectly by default. Someday I'll post about the $600.00 Brazilian rosewood set a friend ran through the jointer, & tried to glue:eek: .....don

[Derek Cohen]

John

Whether planing end- or long grain, the first plane I grab for my shooting board is a LV LA Jack. This can be used in LA mode for end grain and HA mode for long grain. It was the width (2-1/4" blade) to plane thicker boards and sufficient length to produce a flat surface (although a nominal #5-1/2 in size, the mouth is set further back, which lets it perform like a slightly longer plane).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John Edwards]

Thanks for all the replies thus far. Good information.

My primary reason for a shooting board is remove the ripples/further straighten a board after a trip over a power jointer. In addition the creation of a touch of bow in the middle of the glue joint, as mentioned by Roy.

Don, you bring out another important issue about jointing the boards as they are bookmatched. A little additional support I think would help me to ensure that my joints come out flat. As freehanding jointing, as the boards get longer, is still a problem spot.

All in the learning curve.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Wow, I'm amazed that so many people use a shooting board for long grain. I don't use thin wood that much so I usually just clamp two piece together and run the jointer across both at the same time. I learn something every day.