PDA

View Full Version : changing a dj-20 jointer from standard head to a shelix head



Dean D Collins
02-10-2012, 8:58 PM
I have read several forums on how easy to change on a jointer, 1-2 hours.
I removed the head from the machine without any problem, removing the belt pulley took about 30 minutes with 20 minutes soaking in WD40.
Now I have been over 3 hours trying to remove the blocks from the bearings. The new head has one bearing already attached by the manufacture and they furnished the other bearing to be mounted on the pulley, but until I get the end blocks off I can't do a thing to install the new head. If you have figured out how, I would appreciate some help.

Jimmy Smith
02-10-2012, 9:19 PM
Hello, I haven't worked on a dj-20 but it is possible the blocks have a snap ring to hold them in place, look close on inside of bearing block, if no snap ring is in place they should tap off with a hammer or you might have to pull them with a three jaw bearing puller. Hope this helps. Jim

Jim Andrew
02-10-2012, 10:09 PM
If you are an old coot like me, get your magnifying glass and look it over good before applying hammer. I put a shelix head on my Grizzly, and used my bearing puller to pull the bearings off, and didn't hurt them so used them on the new head.

Thomas Hotchkin
02-10-2012, 11:52 PM
Dean
Parts list shows a snap ring on pulley side bearing block only on my DJ-20. My DJ-20 is about 10 years old. Tom

Jim Foster
02-11-2012, 7:55 AM
Make sure and let us know how it works!

Randy Henry
02-11-2012, 9:51 AM
I just did my DJ-20 about a month ago, there is a snap ring holding it in.

Dean D Collins
02-11-2012, 8:38 PM
First of THANKS for the hints suggesrion and help, I really appreciate it. The new shelix is in!!!! I still have the table adjustments to do but I turned it on, nothing came loose sounds real good. The bearing block on the pulley end had to be removed with a puller, to get at the retaining clip. I went to a machine shop where were very willing to remove the bearing block for me, and after looking at the bearing we decided to leave that bearing in place since there was nothing wrong with it and go ahead and press fit the new head on. Everything went real good and now its in the machine. After several hours of frustration and a few gosh, darn, gee, gollys. its done!!!!!!

Ed Edwards
02-12-2012, 5:26 AM
What a timely post. I'm about to replace cutter head on my DJ-20 also, and would like to get some input from those who have already completed the task.
I have the cutter head off. I was surprised after removing the non-driven block (bearing retainer) how easily it slid onto the bearing once I had taken it off and then cleaned the built-up saw dust and debris. I was surprised by the amout of looseness. Is this what you encountered?
Are both bearing the same number? I found a 6004 bearing on the non driven side.
How did you remove the pulley? Were you able to drive it off, or did you use a puller?
On the driven side block and bearing, were you able to remove the block with the bearing? And the remove the snap ring? Or, could remove the ring prior?
I would certainly appreciate any and all input so that I'm prepaired to get the jointer jointing again

Thanks, Ed

Dean D Collins
02-12-2012, 7:41 PM
Good Lick!!!!! both my bearings were frozen inside the bearing blocks had to get one removed at a machine shop (thats the one that the without clip0. the other it was decided not to try to get it out scence the bearing was in good shape and exactly like the new one that came the the shelix head. The pulley, I sprayed WD-40 around the shaft and let it soak for quite a long time, then a tapped fairly hard and was able to pull rhe pulley and key off together. Putting the new head in and reattaching the fence assembly went just fine. I adjusted the table so that they ended up just touching a blade on each side of the shelix.

Hope that helps.