Basic drilling questions - hand held power drill

[Dave Lame]

I need an education on the basics of drilling and driving with a hand held power drill. Would appreciate your help.


1. If I am not concerned about the time it takes to change a drill or driver, what are the advantages of 1/4 hex chuck vs 3 jaw chuck for drilling? driving?

2. What are the advantages of ball joint hex chuck vs ring shank?

3. Is it good practice to drill at the highest speed that the density of the wood and the sharpness of the drill permit?

4. If pre-drilling to fasten two boards, using a pilot hole first thru both boards then a clearance hole (in first board only) and countersinking the first board, do you counter sink when drilling the pilot hole or the clearance hole?

5. Are there any "secrets" to drilling with a bushing (such as a Kreg jig or doweling jig)? Do you bring the drill up to full speed before placing in the bushing?

[Rich Engelhardt]

5.) Place bit all the way into the bushing then slowly bring the drill up to full speed before starting to drill.
2000 rpm is the recommended speed. Most cordless drills don't go that fast so if you don't have a decent corded drill, I recommend you start looking for one.

I picked up a Bosch corded 1/2" hammer drill that I use with my Kreg for $79.00 on sale.
I needed a decent keyed chuck hammer drill & the Bosch is just small enough to work ok in the Kreg.
It's too big though for most other around the shop/around the house drilling chores though.
This is one of those times that I got lucky in this resepct - a single tool that does two jobs I don't do all that often - is working out well.

1.) I believe the hex shank has less slip than the 3 jaw. I'm not positive though that that's the only advantage.
2.), 3.) 4.) I'll be interested to know myself.

[Mike Cutler]

1. The Hex shank is faster for bit changes, but if the machining tolerances aren't close in the bit shanks they wobble in the chuck. I prefer a 3 jaw chuck. If the bit is slipping in the jaws, it's a clear indication I'm doing something wrong.
2. Speed of indexing the bit, but once again the machining tolerances need to be tight.
3. Most hand drills won't have this type of fine speed control to select drill bit diameter, versus wood. But, used correctly, a small hand held drill "should" be used within it's range of applicability by virtue of the limitations of the shank diameter of the drill. Standard twist drills, and Brad points should operate just fine as long as the shank fits the chuck.
Of course there are shanked bits that are larger than the drill diameter, but once you start using those you're a little off the drill chart and need to go by feel, or "catch".
4. How important is this? If it's critical get astep down countersunk drill bit made for the task. WL Fuller has a full range of them. If it's not important, counter sinksecond, or last with a hand held counter sink. Counter sunk drill bits, with out a pilot are very inexpensive. Better to use on of those of you can.
5. I've never used a Kreg Jig, so I have no experience there.

[Gary Kman]

You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too many drills. A fast 1/4" corded drill has always had a lot of use in my shop. Pawn shops almost give them away but last time I found an open box Hitachi pretty cheap.

If it's important that two boards be pulled together tightly, a clearance hole through the first is really important. Pilot drill into the second if danger of breaking screw.

Ejecting chips is important when using a bushing. A buildup causes heat, necessitates high force and can result in a over-sized or crooked hole. Lube bit with paraffin often.