Moving/Storing Larger Machines?

[alex grams]

I am possibly looking at relocating and will thusly have to pack up the shop.
I am looking at basically making pallets from 2x4's and bolting my major machines down. And for larger, possible more fragile machines such as my 17" bandsaw, building a frame around the machine to protect it and help prevent damage/tipping. Then I can just get a low load/ramped trailer and use a pallet jack to move the machines. Is this the best option? Will movers even bother to help with this stuff?

Other ways of doing this?

[Van Huskey]

First, I can't tell you what movers will and won't touch as I assume it is different with each but I would discuss it prior to moving day. You have identified one of the two machines that least likes to get moved, if you have a drill press pull the head, reduces the chances of damage by a lot. I would suggest just going and getting the correct number of pallets from a pallet dealer, there have to be tons of them in the Houston area. The will be cheaper than building with 2x4s and the spacing will be right for pallet jacks. This is how I palletize a BS. Set the BS on a pallet, build a frame 4 feet up with 2x4s (4 uprights and a rail around the top) then just above the table screw two 2x4s from side rail to side rail, one in front of the spine and one behind, then screw a short section of 2x4 on each side of the spine between each of the crossmembers you just screwed to the rails. This keeps the saw from tipping front to back and side to side. I usually leave the table on but you can remove it but if the trip isn't going to be rough it is a waste of time. I would then sheath it with thin plywood up to the rails (the reason they are 4ft high plus that is what most common carriers require). I tend to use screws for the whole affair since they are easier to break down in the end.

[David Kumm]

for some machines 4x4 or 4x6 bolted to the base is as good or better than a pallet. Machines that are heavy should be carriage bolted rather than lagged. If not crating, making the pallet a little oversized so the next thing can't get close enough to damage the machine helps. Take off electrical box covers, handwheels, cranks, etc. If you haul yourself a drop deck trailer can be rented. That will require only a pallet jack to move a mountain. Plenty of shrink wrap and again if hauling yourself, lots of good quality ratchet straps. If using a freight carrier, finding someone close with a commercial address and a loading dock will save lots of $$ but you need to figure out the balance of the trip. Dave

[Art Mulder]

As a side note, I would think it would be fairly easy to get surplus pallets from various stores or industrial locations rather than building something.

[Van Huskey]

David pointed out something I forgot, bolting them onto the pallet! I am good with pallets up to the 700lb range but if you have any really heavy stuff you may need to rethink pallets.

[Stephen Cherry]

Where I live, the local landfill recycles pallets, so you can go there to pick up some pallets. Or, there is always dumpster diving, which is more fun. Also, normal pallets can be reinforced with 4x4's slid under te heaby parts of the machine. Plus, something like a jointer needs to be bolted down.

[John Coloccia]

Check your local Woodcraft if you have one. We usually have stacks of pallets that we are more than happy to give to anyone that will take them away.

[Gary Kman]

I purchased all of the seats from a late model Explorer for a truck I was working on. That's a big bulky load. Shipper placed on a 6 x 6 pallet and banded them down. Then shot vertical 2x4's on the corners and a 2x4 rail around the top. Then wrapped with plastic with the top open. Simple, cheap, effective. Truckers don't stack loaded pallets so the top is unimportant. A guy might use a blue plastic tarp installed with screws and washers and have a pretty good tarp when finished.