Finish for MDF/Maple bench

[Dan Case LR]

I'm sure questions on this order have been asked and re-asked, but after nearly an hour searching I've decided to ask again (I think "MDF" is too short a search term for the search engine).

I'm building a Noden Adjust-a-Bench with a 2 1/4" MDF top (Three layers of 3/4) skirted with soft maple, with the wood stretchers made from the same maple (from the same board, actually). I want to use a finish on this that will resist water (as in sweat rings from glasses, occasional spills, etc) and easily shed glue. There are obvious options like your basic poly (I'm not a big fan). The last time I built anything with Maple (a series of maple/cherry rocking horses 8-10 years ago) I used Minwax Tung Oil Finish (yes, I know it's not really Tung oil) and it gave me a lovely finish I really liked, but I'm not so sure about using it on MDF.

I know there are other options. What would you use?

Thanks!

D.

[Greg Berry313]

Not sure what finish to use but I would like to see pics of the bench!

[Paul Wunder]

Dan,

I Googled "tung oil on MDF" and got a lot of responses. Perhaps one may help you to decide

[Paul Wunder]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?80220-Help-with-finishing-MDF-and-Maple

Try this Creek thread also.

[Prashun Patel]

An oil/varnish blend or oil/wax blend will be fine here. Either will prevent the things yr talking about, allow glue to pop off, will be soft enough to accept blade cuts and gouges without scratching, and will be easy enough to repair.
One of my current benches is mdf (well, hardboard, but similar enough) and topped with ov.


I've done benches in poly, shellac, oil/wax and oil/varnish. The OV is the best IMHO - if you take time to clean and keep it up. I inevitably end up abusing my benches (finishing on them, drilling/sawing into them). If yr like me, then all bets are off and they all look like crap (Don't get me wrong - I love it!) eventually.

[Dan Case LR]

An oil/varnish blend or oil/wax blend will be fine here. Either will prevent the things yr talking about, allow glue to pop off, will be soft enough to accept blade cuts and gouges without scratching, and will be easy enough to repair.
One of my current benches is mdf (well, hardboard, but similar enough) and topped with ov.


I've done benches in poly, shellac, oil/wax and oil/varnish. The OV is the best IMHO - if you take time to clean and keep it up. I inevitably end up abusing my benches (finishing on them, drilling/sawing into them). If yr like me, then all bets are off and they all look like crap (Don't get me wrong - I love it!) eventually.


The Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" is an oil/varnish product (though likely not really Tung oil, probably linseed). I've been pleased with its performance on other projects, so it's a contender.

I agree that benches should look like benches--as in like they're actually used for woodworking. If I was going to build one just to look at, I'd build a table instead. :)

D.

[glenn bradley]

My MDF / fir trimmed top is BLO as is the rest of the bench (legs, braces, etc.). It is not brittle and so does not scratch or flake like a hard finish. It is easily renewable if required. I put paste wax on it and glue pops right off. I have renewed it once in 5 or 6 years and I just wiped it down with mineral spirits to soften/remove the wax. Wiped on/off the BLO and left it for a couple days. re-waxed and rock-on.

Here it is before the base was even done (you can see the lumber for it stickered in the background):

223246

And here it is at about 5 years:

223245

[Sam Murdoch]

I'm a big fan of MDF desk tops with solid wood edging. Have finished with urethane and varnish. As much as I really like the durability of tung oil varnishes such as Waterlox I have chosen NOT to use them on the mdf top because it is not a porous surface like wood and so there is nothing to gain by using finishes that penetrate the pores and on which subsequent coats adhere. So, I have used surface applications like urethane and varnish. They work great. Shellac would work too but I must say that for a bench top I like Glenn's paste wax idea for all the reasons he stated.

[Dan Case LR]

After sorting through all the advice and information I've found, I decided to go with BLO. I put a very light first coat on the stretchers last night, just to get the feel for it, and liked what I saw. After assembling the legset and attaching the top, I went back and did a more generous coat. After letting it sit overnight, I'm very pleased with the results so far:

223311

Not the best picture. I had to take it with my tablet, as my "good" camera had an unfortunate encounter between the extended lens and a concrete floor (Ouch!). I obviously have a lot of work yet to do, but I'm pleased with the BLO so far.

Thanks, all!

D.

[Myk Rian]

I know there are other options. What would you use?
Shellac, more shellac, and then some more shellac.

[glenn bradley]

I'm a big fan of MDF desk tops with solid wood edging. Have finished with urethane and varnish. As much as I really like the durability of tung oil varnishes such as Waterlox I have chosen NOT to use them on the mdf top because it is not a porous surface like wood and so there is nothing to gain by using finishes that penetrate the pores and on which subsequent coats adhere. So, I have used surface applications like urethane and varnish. They work great. Shellac would work too but I must say that for a bench top I like Glenn's paste wax idea for all the reasons he stated.

Actually, MDF soaks up the oil voraciously. Pores? No. Penetrate? You bet. I "thin" (yes we all know you don't really thin BLO) the BLO about 1:1 with Mineral Spirits and wipe a small amount across a large area to avoid swell issues. You do not want to flood an MDF surface, it'll get fat :). Maybe its just the Lowe's MDF I used(?).

Dan,
Your AAB came out pretty darn nice. I would love to have a set of those legs.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Shellac, more shellac, and then some more shellac.
Followed by a coat of Johnson paste wax..