Base - Sink Door Finishing Question

[Mike Goetzke]

(Posted this at the Target Finishes Forum but not a lot of traffic there)

I'm putting the finishing touches on a long/big kitchen project (probably 70+ raised panels). I used one coat of amber ultraseal and four coats of EM6000. I noticed the other day my wife spilled some water by the sink. She did a quick wipe up but I noticed it seemed like the door was wicking some moisture where there is a little end grain at the small space where the raised panel profile ends and there is about a 1/8" proud face (confused ya yet). Anyway, this is probably prone to happen only at the sink. Should I spray a few more coats and maybe concentrate a few light coats first in this area or get a small brush and apply several light coats to the exposed end grain area? Or any other suggestions welcome.

OK - poor man's sketch:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/untitled.jpg

Thanks,

Mike

[Lee Schierer]

You didn't say what type of wood, but I would bet it is red oak. Sealing end grain requires more finish than face grain. I would apply more finish on any area that might get wet. Guests and or children might not be as quick to wipe off splashed water.

[Mike Goetzke]

You didn't say what type of wood, but I would bet it is red oak. Sealing end grain requires more finish than face grain. I would apply more finish on any area that might get wet. Guests and or children might not be as quick to wipe off splashed water.

It's European steamed beech. Yeah, I agree it needs more finish but can I just use a small artist brush to hit the small end grain area or should I prep them and spray (I still have more components to spray so not a huge deal to re-spray).

Mike

[Todd Burch]

In the famous words of Pat Morita... Wax on, wax off. (That would be my "it's done, I'm tired of messing with it" fix).

But, if you are still spraying - you could spray again.

When I spray, have use two different techniques to cover doors, depending on my mood (and how the finish is flowing, and how heavy I'm spraying, and ... yada, yada, yada).

One way, I hit detail areas first (like your fully adequate drawing shows), head on, and then cover the rails and panels.

Or, I'll simply travel left and right, quickly, but angling my spray to be perpendicular with the surface as I travel.

Todd

[Mike Goetzke]

In the famous words of Pat Morita... Wax on, wax off. (That would be my "it's done, I'm tired of messing with it" fix).

But, if you are still spraying - you could spray again.

When I spray, have use two different techniques to cover doors, depending on my mood (and how the finish is flowing, and how heavy I'm spraying, and ... yada, yada, yada).

One way, I hit detail areas first (like your fully adequate drawing shows), head on, and then cover the rails and panels.

Or, I'll simply travel left and right, quickly, but angling my spray to be perpendicular with the surface as I travel.

Todd


Do you use paste wax?

I sprayed these doors like you suggest - I first sprayer the sticking and raised panel detail independently and then applied 4-coats to the whole door. Guess due to it being end grain it needs a little more finish.

Thanks

[Todd Burch]

Yes I would use paste wax to fix this issue.

4 coats is a lot of spraying to not have sealed the end grain.

If it's not sealed after 4 coats... I don't know what I would do. You using PALM wood? lol

[Ed Edwards]

I saw this awhile back 'think this might apply Ed
TIP: Door and Drawer Edges Under Sinks
Posted on February 8th, 2011 By Bob Flexner (http://news.thefinishingstore.com/?author=12)No comments (http://news.thefinishingstore.com/?p=793#comments)
Especially when spraying finishes, it’s common to get too little finish on the edges of cabinet doors and drawers. If these doors and drawers are installed under a sink in a kitchen or bathroom, splashed water will break through the thin finish, causing it to peel. There’s rarely anything you can do to fix this damage short of stripping and refinishing.
Edges
The first pass on the edge should be made all the way around at a 90° angle to the flat, horizontal surface. Then another pass at 45° should be made to hit the routed or shaped edges well. Finally, apply full passes perpendicular to the top surface.
Do this with each coat.