"O" clearance for band saw and table saw

[Jack Burgess]

Help in finding "O" clearance inserts for Sears band saw and Sears table saw. Lip is too small to personally make one - less than an 1/8 and Sears does not have them. Ones at Rockler are all Oval on ends and do not fit. Appreciate any help.

[Bill Huber]

I think you can make your own, just use phenolic.

Use the one that came in the saw as a template, double tape it to the phenolic, cut it down and finish the edge with a pattern bit. Them use a rabbeting bit to do the under cut.

This is less then 1/8" thick for the part that it rest on and works very well.

222943

[Anthony Whitesell]

Which Sears Tablesaw? Mine is a 1954 and the insert is only 0.093" thick. I found you can make a wooden insert if the grain is running left to right, perpendicular to the blade and the long direction. When the grain ran parallel to the long direction, the lip would break off while I was trying to make it or use it. The ones I have now are actually from plywood. As Bill mentioned, using a rabbeting bit for the undercut is one of the tricks to make them. I tried to cut my first attempt to leave the exact thickness for the lip, but then found it easier to leave it thick (proud when installed) and run them through the drum sander to the exact fit.

Talk about trial and error or live and learn.

[Jerome Hanby]

Leecraft makes one that supposedly fits my Craftsman Table saw...but it didn't <g> Needs to be sanded down a bit and I haven't gotten back around to fooling with it...or finding it for that matter.

I wound up buying a second DADO iinsert for mine when I misplaced the original. I've since found it and have been thinking of trying to convert it into one of those ZCIs with a replaceable wooden strip. Might be an idea for you...

[Van Huskey]

YOu didn't say which Sears bandsaw but I will guess it is one of the ubiquitous 12" versions. PS Wood has two different inserts (#1 and #5) you need to reference the blade length of the saw to determine the correct insert since it changed. http://www.pswood.com/home.php?cat=53

[Lee Schierer]

I designed an aluminum insert with a replaceable wood strip for my craftsman saw. A machinist friend made it for me from my drawings. It works great and I would never switch back to the factory original. Unfortunately the lip on mine is closer to 1/4" than 1/8". Here's a link (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?10839-New-zero-clearance-Insert&highlight=Zero+clearance+insert%2C+craftsman) with photos.

[Jack Burgess]

Thanks for all of the advice on the question on "O" clearance for Craftsman table saw. I do not have source for aluminum one or the expertise to make it myself out of wood. Is there a company that makes them for specific models of Sears saws? Again thanks for any help.

Jack

[Jack Burgess]

Thanks Bill, do not have ability to do this fine of work yet. Still looking for a source to order one for a specific Craftsman saw. More concerned about the table saw one.

Jack

[Bill Huber]

Thanks Bill, do not have ability to do this fine of work yet. Still looking for a source to order one for a specific Craftsman saw. More concerned about the table saw one.

Jack

Just sent you a PM, I think I can make some for you.

[Michael Peet]

Just sent you a PM, I think I can make some for you.

You're a good man, Bill.

Mike

[Ron Natalie]

It is NOT that hard. I made one early on for my old Delta contractors saw years ago with nothing more than some plywood and a sanding disk (from Sears) that fit the table saw.

Take the existing insert and trace around it on to the plywood.
Cut the thing to rectangular size on the table saw. Knock off the corners by making a 45 cut with the mitre gauge.
Replace the table saw blade with the sanding disk.
Sand the round profile up to the line.
(You'll probably have to stop, lower the disk and test fit the insert a few times).
Once you've got it done, mount up the blade you are preparing the insert for and crank it well below the surface of the table.
Put in your insert and figure out a way to hold it down, I just moved the fence over so it covered up everything to the right of the blade.
Turn on the saw and slowly crank the blade up until it cuts through.

Perhaps one of the easiest things I've done with regard to making things for the shop. But I'm pretty sure that Klingspoor when I was there (and probably many of the mail order places) sell them already fit for the Craftsman saws (a RIDGID one may also fit).

While cutting the blade hole in the insert, REMOVE THE RIVING KNIFE if you have one. Don't ask me how I know this :)

[Jack Burgess]

Bill my computer said I had private message but I could not find it. I do appreciate you offer to help. I have been calling different hardware wood suppliers with no luck yet.
I am in Mansfield Texas. Cell number is 817-538-6867. You are welcome to call me with any ideas.

Jack

[Bill Huber]

We will try it again, I send you another PM, it should be in your PMs.

If its not there you can email me at wlhuber@att.net