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phil harold
02-05-2012, 11:34 PM
I acquired this RAS for 100 bucks.
From the color difference of the motor and the arm, I wonder if it has a different motor than original

222814
222817

How can I date the motor and saw?

222815
222816

Where can I get an arbor nut? and other parts...
Best 12" blade?

thanks

Cary Falk
02-05-2012, 11:59 PM
Phil,
I am not sure if the motor is the original one to your saw but looking at other GPs in the OWWM photo index,iIt does look to be the correct motor. The shape and motor plate match. You can look for parts on the BOYD section of the OWWM website or the DeWalt Delphi forums.
Cary

Van Huskey
02-06-2012, 12:05 AM
Best blades depends on what type of cuts you are planning to make.

phil harold
02-06-2012, 12:21 AM
Best blades depends on what type of cuts you are planning to make.
This will be for cross cutting mostly solid wood.

Tim Howell
02-06-2012, 1:48 AM
Be sure to use a Radial Arm saw blade with a 0-5 degree negitive hook. Don't use a table saw blade. Tablesaws have an agressive hook and will make a Radial arm
saw climb up your wood.

Van Huskey
02-06-2012, 3:08 AM
This will be for cross cutting mostly solid wood.


I would go with either the Forrest WWI (thats is WWI not WWII) or a Freud LU80, the LU80 will give amazing finish but not nearly as aggressive as the WWI so it would depend on how fine a finish you want.

Tom Welch
02-06-2012, 10:19 AM
Phil, for parts check with Original Saw Mfg. They sell a lot of parts to fit the older Dewalts, as they make their new saws that use the original Dewalt design. Good luck, I have one of the new Original Saw 12 RAS and I love the thing.

david brum
02-06-2012, 10:34 AM
I just bought a negative hook angle 10" blade from Onsrud. They're blowing them out on ebay for really cheap. The quality surprised me, made in Germany. This blade uses a TCG tooth design, which is preferred on radial saws. Of all the blades I've tried on my RAS, this one has the least tendancy to self-feed toward me. It still doesn't cut quite as cleanly as my Forrest Chopmaster, but it does behave a bit better and the cut is still quite good.

Neil Brooks
02-06-2012, 11:03 AM
I have one of the new Original Saw 12 RAS and I love the thing.

You .... suck ;)

phil harold
02-20-2012, 9:12 PM
LU80M012
or
I was looking at blades here too
http://justsawblades.com/popular/radial_arm_blades.html

HANK METZ
02-20-2012, 9:33 PM
In your rebuild schedule, pay particular attention to the table. All the accuracy that saw can deliver is born from it. You can construct a "Mr. Sawdust" version as most of the members of the DeWalt forum have or you may want to consider an alternative yet no less robust design:
DeWalt Table Torsion Box (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9euQNBStAG8)

- Beachside Hank

david brum
02-20-2012, 10:00 PM
Phil, here's some info you might be interested in. One of the guys at the DeWalt forum put together a RAS timeline. Your saw was manufactured between 1939 and 1948. It had a 2.3hp motor, so perhaps your motor was switched out at some point. The GPK was made in the same era, but had a 2hp motor, so your motor might be from one of those.

If you saw uses a 1" arbor, you'll want to either get a 12" blade or look for a specific 10" with larger bore.

As a general rule, metal cutting blades (negative hook with triple chip pattern) behave well on RASs. Are you going to be ripping on this saw, or mainly cross cutting?

Thomas Hotchkin
02-20-2012, 10:09 PM
Phil
+1 with what Cary said about Dewalt Delphi form, also a good link to Forrest Wood Worker I 12" with a 1" arbor hole. On later Dewalt saws you could use the motor serial number help
with dating. But don't think they made a GP in 1924 IIRC Tom

http://vintagemachinery.org/MfgIndex/Images/1244-A.jpg

phil harold
02-20-2012, 11:13 PM
Phil
+1 with what Cary said about Dewalt Delphi form, also a good link to Forrest Wood Worker I 12" with a 1" arbor hole. On later Dewalt saws you could use the motor serial number help
with dating. But don't think they made a GP in 1924 IIRC Tom

http://vintagemachinery.org/MfgIndex/Images/1244-A.jpg
62216 wood make it a '47'

so far on the refurb it has been blasted, painted, new motor bearings, new capacitor, new power cords.
I got to plug it in and fire her up today, runs much better than the hum she had when I bought her, she would spin if you pushed the blade.

It need a new table ,the original, maple one has seen better days
I have thought about using a solid core door or recreate the maple one
also have to get it elevated seems to low for my stature
I am thinking rolling cart with locking wheels