Planer sled and hot melt glue

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I do not have space for a jointer so I decided to try a planer sled to use with my planer. Initially, I was going to build a fancy sled but decided to build something simple out of a piece of MDF that I have just sitting around. My intention is to place a stop block at the back, place the board on the sled, and then shove shims under the high spots so that they do not push down.

I saw a similar sled out of MDF and hot melt glue was used to tack the shim to the sled and to the board. I do not mean put a bunch of glue down and shove things in place, I mean a dab on the sides.

I have also seen posts where people claim that they use hot melt glue to hold joints together. I don't want that level of hold, just enough to hold things in place while they go through the planer. A bit of a connection along the side is no big deal because I can rip that off with a saw.

My first thought was to pick up a 3M Scotch-Weld Hot Melt Applicator AE II, but then I realized that this was created for manual packaging and is not dual temperature, and I am afraid that it might work too well. Anyone have experience with hot melt glue guns that can comment? I mean, if it is able to work well without dripping and create a great hold, then I can use it for other things. Any thoughts?

[Roger Newby]

Denatured alcohol will break the hot melt bond after you're done. Just squirt it on, let it set for awhile and wiggle to break loose then scrape off the residue.

[keith micinski]

Hot melt glue holds really strong but would pop right off with a chisel after you were done. For small areas I don't even use shims I just use a few pieces of duck tape till it doesn't rock.

[Andrew Joiner]

My intention is to place a stop block at the back, place the board on the sled, and then shove shims under the high spots so that they do not push down.






Hi Andrew,
The stop block goes on the front, the end you feed in first. It's counter intuitive but it keeps the infeed roller from pulling the stock forward.

I use planer sleds a lot. I have color coded shims of 3 taper sizes most are from 0" to 1/8". They are rough sawn on a bandsaw. The rough surface keeps them in place without hot glue. I set the stock on the sled,hold it to the front stop and lightly slide in shims till the stock is firm. The shims don't move as it goes thru the planer.

The key to success with this method is a flat setup area level with the infeed table of your planer bed. You can't disturb the "package" of the stock shimmed firmly on the sled before it gets pulled in by the infeed roller. I grab the stock and push it tight to the sled as it comes out of the planer sliding on my outfeed table. If I need to take off more I crank up the planer 2 turns I can slide the "package" back thru without disturbing the shims. I check the shims before the second pass, but they are usually good or just need a slight shift to be firm.

This method is almost as fast as jointer and you have power feed! I spent a lot time at a jointer getting real tired pushing down on long stock. Sleds eliminate this and they get stock just as flat.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

OK, I just learned a bunch.... First, stop block on the front. Oh my, not even in my wildest dreams did I think about that. Now that you mention it, however, the fact that it pulls it through. Wow. Now that would have been a most unpleasant surprise.

Had not considered that I really need to be able to set it in place before it runs through. I have been thinking about purchasing a set of rollers. Sounds like this is the time to do that.

Painters tape.... Not a bad idea for things that are just slightly out.

[Bill White]

I use carpet tape (double sided) and wedges. Never though about the stop on the front, but I will now.
Bill