Small Trim Duplication

[Justin Luttrell]

Guys, first post here, frequent lurker.

222463

I've been racking my brain on how to best duplicate a small piece of trim on an antique dresser. The trim is a triple bead 3/8" tall x 1/8" thick. The beads are 1/16" radius.

I have not been able to find a similar router bit (1/8" radius are the smallest triple beads I can find).

My first attempt at a scratch stock....did not yield adequate results.

I have found a "point cutting roundover bit" here with the appropriate radius: http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/vp13-2307/pc_-_groove_forming. Ths would require multiple passes on RT.

Now i'm wondering if I could file my profile into a cheap single flute straight bit and run on router table.

If I can duplicate this close enough, I can avoid replacing all of it. Any ideas?

[Van Huskey]

Have you checked the radius of the Lee valley small triple bead? http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=30226&cat=1,46168,46179

I don't know what it is but it looks close to what you want, you may want to check with them.

[Justin Luttrell]

I did look at those. They appear to be varying radii, which interestingly enough, usually have the smallest one at 1/16" radius. I need 3 equal beads at 1/16' radius. I had really hoped to find a router bit, but this is gonna come down to ingenuity. I may try making a new scratch stock tomorrow, but I am curious about modifying a straight bit. I haven't seen this done, but this is such a small profile....

[Van Huskey]

I wonder what a custom router bit would cost, with the proliferation of CNC routing it has become more common and MAY be cost effective vs your time.

[Stephen Cherry]

this has scratch stock written all over it. Chainsaw file, back of an old planer or jointer knife, and a nice wooden handle. It might take several times to get it right, but it is time well spent. One tip would be to project the knife out of the side of a vise jaw when filing, file one slot, then slide that into the vise to file the next. Have the file right next to the vise jaw as a guide.

If the beads are actually touching, I don't think you will find a stock profile. I don't think that the points on the cutter would survive very long.

[Rick Fisher]

If you don't need much, a beading tool would probably do it..

[Whit AndersonIL]

Justin--

Could you glue this up from three pieces? If I had to make a small amount of this beading here is what I would try. I would find an edge beading router bit with a 1/8" diameter and put a bead along the edge of 1/8" stock. I'd then cut the stock into 3 equal pieces and glue them together, side by side to make the 3 beads that are needed. I think, with luck, the glue joint will not be visible in the space between the beads.

http://www.whitanderson.com/wood/bead/bead.jpg

I found this router bit on Amazon. It is just the first 1/8" diameter edge beading router bit I found with Google (not one I have tried or recommend):

http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-5808-Edge-Beading-Router/dp/B000V1Q34K

--Whit

[Mike Heidrick]

1/16R Plunge Point-Cutting Roundover Bit work? You have a CNC or a good indexable router table fence like an Incra?
Magnate 7508 Point Cutting Roundover Router Bits - 1/16" Radius; 1/4" Shank Diameter
http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Point-Cutting-Roundover-Router/dp/B00063FZ7E

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21HkAwqU1QL.jpg

[Rich Engelhardt]

That looks very much like screen door stop molding you can buy off the shelf at Lowes and/or Home Depot.
I use it to add decorative edges quite a bit.

[Justin Luttrell]

Wow! Thanks for all the replies, guys.


Rich Engelhardt
That looks very much like screen door stop molding you can buy off the shelf at Lowes and/or Home Depot.
I use it to add decorative edges quite a bit.



The screen molding generally comes 3/4" wide with 1/4" diameter beads. I looked into it.


Whit AndersonIL
Justin--

Could you glue this up from three pieces? If I had to make a small amount of this beading here is what I would try. I would find an edge beading router bit with a 1/8" diameter and put a bead along the edge of 1/8" stock. I'd then cut the stock into 3 equal pieces and glue them together, side by side to make the 3 beads that are needed. I think, with luck, the glue joint will not be visible in the space between the beads.



This might actually be worth a try, not sure I've ever put an edge on 1/8" stock before.


Rick Fisher
If you don't need much, a beading tool would probably do it..



Are you talking about something like this (http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=32679&cat=1,41182)? They don't specify if the 1/8" triple is radius or diameter.


Stephen Cherry
this has scratch stock written all over it. Chainsaw file, back of an old planer or jointer knife, and a nice wooden handle. It might take several times to get it right, but it is time well spent. One tip would be to project the knife out of the side of a vise jaw when filing, file one slot, then slide that into the vise to file the next. Have the file right next to the vise jaw as a guide.

If the beads are actually touching, I don't think you will find a stock profile. I don't think that the points on the cutter would survive very long.



That's what I thought. For my first attempt, I used a sawzall blade. It seemed to dull rather quickly. Could it be wrong steel? When I made mine, I spaced the beads out a little. This is ok because I wouldn't mind the overall width being a hair wider.


Van Huskey
I wonder what a custom router bit would cost, with the proliferation of CNC routing it has become more common and MAY be cost effective vs your time.



They are about $150-$200.


Mike
1/16R Plunge Point-Cutting Roundover Bit work? You have a CNC or a good indexable router table fence like an Incra?
Magnate 7508 Point Cutting Roundover Router Bits - 1/16" Radius; 1/4" Shank Diameter

My RT is shop made. I'm not sure It can handle these small tolerances.

[Jerrimy Snook]

I have a customer that uses a home made moulding plane to recreate trim for the pianos he repairs. It looks similar to this one from TheBestThings (http://thebestthings.com/molding.htm), http://www.thebestthings.com/oldtools/graphics/mp111088.jpg. We have made blades for him when the detail was more difficult or critical, otherwise he grinds or files them himself. He claims that it takes longer to make the blade than to make the moulding.

This may be an option that would allow for other details in the future although it is in the custom router bit price range. http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1224

Modifying a HSS router bit might work well if you can get the relief correct otherwise you'll have tearout and/or burning.

Jerrimy

[Justin Luttrell]

Alright guys. I ended up ordering this bit from Eagle America. 223656Here's what I ended up with (existing and new):223657It was close enough of a match to miter into the original.