Setting up tablesaw

[Joe Hillmann]

Over the next few weeks I am planning to set up my table saw and would like anyone's suggestions on what to include.

This is close to the saw I have http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net/images/10-craftsman-table-saw-model-113298142-21494587.jpg

I work mostly with 4x8 sheets so I plan to add wings on both sides of the table so I have 4 feet from the blade to the end of the table on the right and 4 foot 6 inches from the blade to the end of the table on the left. I plan to make the wings out of 3/4" melamine and setting up the left wing so I can use it as a router table. In the future I also plan to build cabinets that fit under each wing and an outfeed table that will be about 2 feet wide and 8 feet long that is removable.

As far as tuning up the machine itself I have the blade running parallel to the left miter slot (that is the one I use the most). I have the blade stop set at a true 90 degrees. And I plan to check later today to make sure both pulleys are aligned with each other.

Mostly I am concerned about using the wing for a router table. I know it is a common practice but I think it may get in the way a lot.

[Jerome Hanby]

I've got my router wing setup on the left. It sits far enough over that I can usually leave a bit proud of the table and it still isn't in the way. With the bit down it's not in the way at all. I use that router table almost exclusively with bearing guided bits for edging so I never need a fence for the router. When that was my only router table, having to move the fence to make a saw cut then try to put it back just right for routing was a pain in the rear.

I always feel uneasy when I try to run full sheets of plywood or MDF across the table saw. I guess you could surround it with enough tables that it would feel safe and controlled but that would take up an enormous amount of room. I solved that problem by spending about $100 on a PSI Portable Panel saw to use with my circular saw and a few dollars for some 2x4s and a pair of banquet tab legs to build a cutting table. You can Google and find numerous examples, all about the same. You can get by even cheaper by making a saw board to use instead of the PPS. Now I seldom run anything more than a couple of feet wide across the table saw.

FWIW, I hope your saw isn't to much like the one in the picture you linked. My dad has one and it's terribly underpowered and the extension tables (and the fence rails, and the fence, and the...I guess you can see where this is going) are just awful. It's a direct drive saw and it screams like a banshee. I wouldn't spend any cash you don't have to trying to tune up this saw. Get it working enough to get you by and be on the lookout for something else. I'm not on the everything Craftsman makes is crap bandwagon, there are some much better Craftsman saws that that one. Please disregard all of this if that picture doesn't reflect your saw. I just realized if I just look at the shape and configuration of that saw, I could say that it looks like mine or almost any other contractor saw I've ever seen in person...

[Don Jarvie]

I have pretty much the same saw and its not the saw to go ripping 4x8 sheets of plywood on. Its pretty light weight and the fence leaves a lot to be desired. I use it for dado's only and an thinking of getting rid of it because I can't really dial it in enough to be accurate.

If this is all you can afford now you may want to consider breaking the sheets down into managable parts and then using the saw. If you got a couple of bucks invest in a cabinet saw that will have the weight behind it and a good fence that can handle a 4x8 sheet of plywood being heaved on it.

[Russ Ambrose]

I have pretty much the same saw and its not the saw to go ripping 4x8 sheets of plywood on. Its pretty light weight and the fence leaves a lot to be desired.

you may want to consider breaking the sheets down into managable parts and then using the saw.

having used a similar looking saw in the past, i would agree that there may be better solutions for cutting sheet goods. i ended up getting a good quality 8+ foot long straight edge and a 3/4 sheet of MDF. lay the MDF on the ground or work surface. put the sheet goods you need to cut on top of the MDF. clamp the straight edge to the sheet goods in the appropriate place. set your circular saw (with a good blade installed) to cut just slightly deeper than the thickness of the sheet goods. bingo. it's much easier, more accurate, and in my opinion infinitely safer than trying to manage a 4x8 sheet over such an underpowered saw the fence on which is likely to deflect to an unacceptable degree. just my two cents.

[Joe Hillmann]

I think everyone is underestimating this saw, for one thing it isn't direct drive, it is belt drive. Also the table and one wing that I do have are castiron. As far as cutting sheet goods I usually take a sheet of ply and cut it into 8 inch strips then cut the strips to about 32 inches long, I would much rather do that with a table saw than with a skillsaw and straight edge because with the table saw once I set the fence I can rip a stack of plywood without having to remeasure for each cut.

[Jerome Hanby]

My comments were based on the picture you linked saying your saw was similar. I think I even said something to that effect <g>. If it's a belt drive saw with at least one cast iron wing then it sounds much more like my currently running saw than my Dads. Mine has one stamped steel wing on the right and a cast iron wing with the router mount on the left. The fence is much better than the one on your picture link too. There are better saws, but that one is much much better than the one in the picture.

[Joe Hillmann]

Yes that picture is the closest I could find to mine. But as I said mine is belt drive and castiron, it isn't a high end saw but is is better than every "contractor saw" I have used.

But mostly what I was hoping for was suggestions on weather or not adding wings to it as large as I want is a good idea and if adding a router insert is going to be helpful or in the way more than anything (I only own one router)

[david brum]

Joe, a router insert won't have any impact on the table saw usefulness, as long as the bit is retracted below the table. Just remember that a heavier router will eventually cause a sag in the melamine unless you support it underneath with some sort of hardwood structure.

You should be able to add wings of just about any desired length. Sheet good wings are typically held in place by the fence rails which support them over their entire length. If you have the L section rails that come on lots of Craftsman saws, you can probably buy longer stock at the hardware store. You'll need legs on the ends to keep the top from sagging.

[Joe Hillmann]

Is there any reason most people don't have larger wings on there saws? I just want to make sure that I won't later regret building them so big. I assume most of the reason is lack of space in the shop.

[glenn bradley]

Is there any reason most people don't have larger wings on there saws? I just want to make sure that I won't later regret building them so big. I assume most of the reason is lack of space in the shop.

Here's mine and I can count the number of times I cut sheet goods per year on one hand.

[Joe Hillmann]

Glenn, Do those large tables ever get in the way?

[Jerome Hanby]

If I had room to burn, I'd have a huge outfeed table that ran the full width of my saw setup , along with my Incra TS-III 52" joinery system and additional table space setup for a router and lift on the right side. I may do all that anyway,I've been putting off opening and installing the Incra hoping to have my Unisaw refurbed and ready to go, but I may just go with what I have and figure out what I want to do differently then change it around when the Unisaw is ready. If your outfeed table was mobile enough to move out of the way when you didn't need it for outfeed use, it could do double duty as an assembly table...

[Prashun Patel]

Joe-
Don't waste a lot of realestate on large left and right wings if you are space constrained. Cross cutting large sheets on the tsaw is asking for trouble. Ripping a 4x8 sheet is doable with help. But if yr doing that, you'll likely only need about 2ft on each side of the blade dedicated. Anything wider can either be cut with a circular saw or with temporary support.

If you have the space, I'd definitely run a 4' outfeed table or support. It's just invaluable for almost any rip cut, and makes great assembly workspace.

I had a similar saw and liked it fine. If it works for you, power to ya!

[Don Jarvie]

I have what you speak of Jerome. I have the 8 inch factory extension on my PM 66 to the left and added a 40 inch extension table to the right. I shifted my Bies fence to the left so I have 46 inches to the right of the blade. I put my router lift to the right to. Across the back of the saw I have my aseembly table which goes the length of the saw. Basically I have a 6x7 area in the middle of my shop so I can use the TS as a bench if need be.

[Troy Turner]

Joe - I've pretty much got the same saw. For what I do, it does fine. I've broken down 4x8 with it by myself. I have a Vega 40" fence so I built a right hand wing for it to help support.

I've noticed a lot of folks doing the T/S router combo. Would only see maybe getting in the way if they bit were still in it. If the shop space can handle it, build away. The more support the better is the way I look at it.