Bed design for Bubinga

[John Scane]

Well this is my first venture to posting in the Design forum so go easy on me. I don't have a computer program for designing so I did these drawings by hand ( and rulers, 1/8" scale). I'm designing a bedroom set for a client and I've come up with this almost final design for the bed. I still need to design the dresser, nitestands and armoir but I thought I'd post what I have so far and get some feedback if your all willing. I got a little carried away with the drawings but I was having fun playing with the pens.

My idea is to have the solid plank of bubinga really stand out. Since it's a 42" wide plank that I have cut into 4 x 10" slabs ( to be able to work with it ) I want to glue them back together to maintain the idea of 1 plank of wood. The whole idea that I'm designing for this project is to keep the idea that it all came from a solid plank. Does that make sense ? Also the client wants to keep the boxsprings so the bed is very tall with an 18" top mattress.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/js040667/bubinga_slab_-cut.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/js040667/bubinga_maple_bed_design_fr.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/js040667/bubinga_maple_bed_design_si.jpg


Thanks,
John

[Jim Becker]

If you haven't cut the boards out yet...try to consider ways to work with it as a single slab--but from your post it sounds like you've already done the deed. Despite your care, the saw kerfs will be enough to make a grain match tough in figured stock like bubinga. Hand tools, router jigs, etc., can be employed. Uncle Mark has some great techniques for contouring that headboard...

As to the design, I like it. A perspective would be useful to understand the look even better, but from your two views, it looks great so far!

[Mark Singer]

John,

It looks good . I don't like the idea of the boxsprings though, you really should make a platform. I made a similar bed before you joined....

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15529&highlight=bed+design


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=14551&highlight=bed

[Earl Kelly]

John, I would work on the framework that supports the bubinga. With the other subtle curves the sharp corner looks like it doesn't belong to me. Maybe work a slight curve it in to lead to the panel, I would also curve it back to match the back sweep of the bubinga.

Make sure of the box and matt. heights. Built a bed for my son at christmas and I made him measure his, good thing it was different than manuf. specs.

[John Scane]

I have tried to talk the clients out of using the box spring but they won't budge...I have no idea why ?

It's hard to tell from the drawing (because I didn't draw it that way:o ) but I am planning on everything having softer slightly rounded edges. I like the idea of having the framed part carry some subtle curves.

There were two problems with working the slab as a whole : as a whole it weighed 1100 lbs and more importantly it was not dry and the client didn't want to wait 2 years. As it sits now after resawing it I should be able to start the project by mid summer, according to the moisture readings.
I think I might build a 1/4"scale mock up to view it at all angles. Do you guys ever do that ?

[John Scane]

Mark...That's exactly what I'm thinking for the back. I looked at your previous posts and see how you did it...very cool! It's a really nice bed. I never would think to use the drum sander, I was planning on using alot of muscle and belt sanding. When I get closer to building it I want to talk to you more about it.

[Mark Singer]

John,
If you are going to be doing a lot of curved and shaped work, you might consider one of the Festool Rotex sanders, there is a new 5" which I bought and the original 6". They work very well and a big plus is the dust collection which is non existant with belt sanders....I hate masks, if I can help it. It has a grinding mode and a sanding mode and then I use the 150/3 sander which is very fine.If possible I still perfer spokeshave planes and rasps....but on concave compound surfaces it is not always possible.
Mark...That's exactly what I'm thinking for the back. I looked at your previous posts and see how you did it...very cool! It's a really nice bed. I never would think to use the drum sander, I was planning on using alot of muscle and belt sanding. When I get closer to building it I want to talk to you more about it.

[Jim Becker]

There were two problems with working the slab as a whole : as a whole it weighed 1100 lbs and...
You mean you couldn't one-hand it around the shop?? :p Ya, that would be one good reason to consider alternatives to processing the whole slab at once!