Question on shop layout - do you ever stand on the "other" side of the lathe?

[Doug Herzberg]

I've decided I need to bolt the lathe down, so I have been thinking a lot about this.

I set up my 25 x 25 shop for flat work. TS and workbench in the center; jointer, planer RAS, wood storage all together; sanding area; bandsaws and scrollsaw together; shaper and drill press off by themselves. The old tube lathe was almost an afterthought, in case I needed to turn a table leg or something. It was bolted to a table, which was bolted to a wall under a window.

When the new lathe came, it went into the same space, parallel to the wall, under the window. In this placement, it is difficult to clean up on the back side of the lathe. The grinder now has a prominent space to the left of the lathe and the bandsaw is to the right. The lathe has a sliding headstock and the outboard extension is on the right. I'll have to roll away the bandsaw to turn outboard. Here are some pictures:


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I can move the lathe away from the wall to allow more room for cleanup, but it would be tight if I tried to stand on the back side. I could turn the lathe perpendicular to the wall, but it would take a lot of real estate. I've noticed some of you put the lathe in the center of the room, like the studio on the woodturning workshop tv show.

I'm spending a lot of time on the lathe, but I don't want to give up flatwork. Does anyone have a layout that works well in this situation?

[John Keeton]

Doug, I did a thread on my 24x24 shop prior to getting a lathe, and that thread is here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?117074-Shop-tour-finally!/page6). My lathe is now placed where the drop down table is shown in the pics. On rare occasion, I do stand on the other side of the lathe, and having access to that space for clean up, and for retrieving items that fall down behind the lathe is very convenient.

[Prashun Patel]

Doug-
My lathe is also against a wall. I find it difficult as well to clean up the back side. I am considering some kind of curved shield along the back wall that directs chips between the legs of the lathe, where sweep up is easier. Would that address your problem?

[Steve Vaughan]

Not sure what to tell you. I've got my lathe on a stand/cabinet I built FULL of cement bags for stability. It ain't moving anywhere although I'd thought about putting some heavy duty wheels on it that would allow me to lower it fully to the floor, but maybe jack it up an inch or so to move it around. I've not needed to get behind the lathe to turn any but I'd like to once in a while. Not sure your lathe would work well on wheels and you might be stuck with what you have. I do have everything else that is movable except my bandsaw, and that's in the works. Perhaps you could put the tailstock end in tight to the wall and bring out the headstock end at about a 45 degree angle from the wall. That way you're not taking up all the space in the middle of the shop, but still allow room to get behind there. That's what I've been thinking of doing, but I'll have to go a different route with my cabinet.

[Doug Herzberg]

Doug, I did a thread on my 24x24 shop prior to getting a lathe, and that thread is here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?117074-Shop-tour-finally%21/page6). My lathe is now placed where the drop down table is shown in the pics. On rare occasion, I do stand on the other side of the lathe, and having access to that space for clean up, and for retrieving items that fall down behind the lathe is very convenient.

John, I just dropped my CA activator bottle back there and it was a PAIN bending over to get it. I have a bad back, so I hate bending, and I hate staying down there while I rummage and reach and feel around for whatever I'm looking for.

Your shop looks great and CLEAN. Thank you for sharing. I am also OCD, but you can't tell from all the junk stacked up around the shop. I just stress out and clean one area by piling everything on the bench, or the TS, or . . . . Someday, I'll get the whole room clean and take photos. I'll probably have to pile everything outside to do it.

I'm planning an add on a south facing room to house my DC, compressor and wood storage. That puts the noise outside and frees up some space. I recently put my jointer and planer on wheels, but they still sit in the middle of their area. I like your idea of pushing them into a corner when not in use. Perhaps where the wood storage is now. I'm thinking they could share the same space when in use instead of each having a space of its own. I could put a movable or collapsible assembly table in that area when needed.

[Dennis Ford]

I often stand on the other side of my lathe for hollowing. If my lathe had a sliding headstock, I would use that feature and not have to walk around.

[Doug Herzberg]

I've got my lathe on a stand/cabinet I built FULL of cement bags for stability. . . . Perhaps you could put the tailstock end in tight to the wall and bring out the headstock end at about a 45 degree angle from the wall.


Steve, the legs on my lathe have shelf brackets, so I'm planning a cabinet to fit there. I'll put some extra motors, a tool box full of nuts and bolts, some cold chisels, extra cast iron parts, and everything else heavy I can think of in there, and try to leave room for some turning tools in the convenient locations. If it works, I won't have to bolt the lathe down.

Since the tailstock end is the outboard turning area on my lathe, I was planning on putting it toward the center, if I go with the perpendicular to the wall layout. The alternative would be to remove the headstock and turn it around, but it's really heavy, so I prefer not to do that.

The turning club has a PM 3520A on wheels, but it seems a lot sturdier than mine.

[Doug Herzberg]

I often stand on the other side of my lathe for hollowing. If my lathe had a sliding headstock, I would use that feature and not have to walk around.

That's what I was wondering about. It's hard for me to bend way over when hollowing and I lose tool control when I'm extended like that. Do you have to use the tool left handed, or does that matter? On my lathe, I would still have to walk around the bed extension, but I could try to find a location where just that end was angled away from the wall, like Steve suggested.

[David E Keller]

I angled mine away from the wall, and at times, I wish I had a even more space on the 'backside'. My shop is smaller than yours, so I've considered just ramming everything not lathe related into a heap against on wall!

[Roger Chandler]

My lathe is parallel to a wall like yours is Doug...........I have enough room I can get behind it for clean up and retrieving things dropped...........I never turn from the backside..........not enough room in my shop, but not likely to do it if I had 10 feet behind it! If a person is left handed and really dominate that way, they might want to consider putting the lathe in reverse and turn, but not likely a right handed person.

I would just use the cabinet for ballast...........mine has wood blanks and it is fine..........the shelf underneath should be a firm fit end to end..........this will stiffen the whole unit and help with any vibration, and the weight of the cabinet on top of the shelf will also dampen vibration and make heavier blanks run smooth..........weight is your friend up to a point!

[James Combs]

Hi Doug, I don't ever remember having had a reason "to stand" behind my small Griz G0658 but I can access behind it if needed. Now my Jet 1642 is a different story. I frequently step in behind it to turn a hard to get at feature or to sand. I have them both 90* to an outside wall, the small one is tail-stock to the wall and the large one is head stock to the wall. Walking into the area between them the small one is left and the large one is right. On the back side of the small one is my miter saw station and on the back side of the Jet is my router station. Both of the stations are clear enough of the lathes to give me access if needed.

Looking at your photos is there enough room to turn yours 90*(headstock) to the window?

[Doug Herzberg]

My shop is smaller than yours, so I've considered just ramming everything not lathe related into a heap against on wall!

I like this. I could build a walk in closet on one side of the shop and put everything in there. Close the door and the shop is clean, ready for inspection by the Western Deputy Shop Inspector Mr. Keeton is threatening.

[Doug Herzberg]

If a person is left handed and really dominate that way, they might want to consider putting the lathe in reverse and turn, but not likely a right handed person.

Roger, I'm right-handed, but when hollowing under a shoulder, my long handled tools are way out there on the other side and I'm bent at the waist. Seems like if I was on the other side I would be in better control. I will definitely add ballast and try that before I start drilling into the slab. I have plans for some big blanks, though, and even the small ones are walking the lathe around right now. It's a little heavier than in these pictures, but obviously not heavy enough.

[Jon McElwain]

I have my lathe set up perpendicular to a wall, approximately 7' from one corner in my shop. This gives me a dedicated turning area as well as access to the back side of the lathe. I have a set of shelves shelf which is dedicated to turning accessories, and I am in the process of constructing a wall mounted tool rack.

My lathe has an outboard bed on the head stock end, so having the lathe perpendicular to the wall allows me ready access to the outboard side of the lathe. I may have considered putting the lathe up against the wall to conserve space if it were not for the outboard side. I suppose I could have just learned to turn backwards....

[Will Winder]

My lathe walked away from the wall a couple weeks ago while truing up an unbalanced blank. I've found its new location very convenient for cleaning and retrieving stuff that falls back there.

[Doug Herzberg]

Hi Doug, I don't ever remember having had a reason "to stand" behind my small Griz G0658 but I can access behind it if needed. Now my Jet 1642 is a different story. I frequently step in behind it to turn a hard to get at feature or to sand. I have them both 90* to an outside wall, the small one is tail-stock to the wall and the large one is head stock to the wall. Walking into the area between them the small one is left and the large one is right. On the back side of the small one is my miter saw station and on the back side of the Jet is my router station. Both of the stations are clear enough of the lathes to give me access if needed.

Looking at your photos is there enough room to turn yours 90*(headstock) to the window?

So the answer is a second lathe? Excellent. I'll go tell the fetching Mrs. Herzberg. She just learned she's getting one more bonus from work, even though she retired in May last year. God does answer prayers.

Seriously, this may work . To put the headstock against the wall would require moving some things around, but almost everything is mobile. If I put other tools against the wall like this, I could have one wall made up of a series of bays with a tool on each side. Tools for machining long boards could be on the endcaps of the bays. Thanks so much for the paradigm shift.

[Dan Forman]

I had mine parallel to the wall, but recently moved the tailstock end out a bit so that I can move operations to the end of the lathe when doing the inside of bowls and such. I had to angle it because the drill press would have been in the way otherwise. It's working out better now, I can get back behind it to clean up easier now, and control is much better at the end of the lathe.

Two things I have discovered that help - I use two anti fatigue rubber mats back to back, one pushed all the way to the wall, and the other in front of that one, which I can stand on. When cleaning up, I just pull the back one out, and most of the curlies come with it, leaving less to sweep up with the broom. I have a balast box on my lathe that makes gets in the way a bit for sweeping. The other thing is an "artificial arm" reaching tool, something like this Amazon.com: Ontel Gopher 2 Pick-Up and Reaching Tool: Sports & Outdoors (http://www.amazon.com/Ontel-Gopher-Pick-Up-Reaching-Tool/dp/B00144L4LK) that I got as a gag gift for Christmas one year. Mine is cheap plastic and more like a robot arm, but it works great for larger items or even small pieces a sandpaper that are always getting pulled out of my hand when sanding. A magnetic wand is useful for retrieving Allen wrenches and such.

Dan

[Richard Jones]

Mine is almost perpendicular to the closest wall, and far enough away that I can still us the knockout bar, unless I slide the headstock all the way to the left, which happens about once every three years. I do slide the headstock down towards the end when hollowing, as I sort of straddle the front and end of the lathe. Not like saddling it, more of a healthy lean into the corner.

I'm not sure if this helps you or not, sorry...............

R

[Scott Hackler]

My lathe is fairly close to the wall and although my headstock will rotate, I forget this sometimes and just lean across the ways. I have thought about re-positioning the lathe footprint if and when I ever upgrade to a larger lathe. I will want to be able to stand at the end and turn and possibly the other side. A new bigger lathe will be a lot heavier than my little Nova so moving it as needed wont work. The Nova can be moved with a little elbo grease!

[Mike Peace]

I am with Steve V. on setting it at about a 45 degree angle from the wall. I think it is not so important to get on the back side as it is to get to the tailstock side for hollowing large bowls or HFs. This is a good compromise to having it perpendicular to the wall and giving up a lot of space.

[Fred Belknap]

I have had mine against the wall and didn't like it very well so I moved it to a angle. I like that so well I now have it 90° to the wall. It is also bolted to the concrete floor. Doug looks like those boards that you have under the ways would get in the way of bolting things to the ways. What does that do anyway, I have the same lathe you do. I always bolt mine down and level it. I keep it far enough from the wall so I can get the knock out bar and the vacuum thing through the spindle. I sometimes work from the back but seldom. I just like the way it works for me.

[Doug Herzberg]

[QUOTE=Fred Belknap;1863871 Doug looks like those boards that you have under the ways would get in the way of bolting things to the ways. What does that do anyway, I have the same lathe you do.[/QUOTE]

Fred, Tom Hardy suggested that while I was waiting for delivery of the lathe. He has one on his and uses shims between the board and the bed to reduce vibration. I thought he had a 4x6, but looks like a 6x8 will fit. I haven't gotten around to actually shimming it. I can just squeeze my hand in there to tighten the nuts on the tailstock and tool rest.

Will, I got to thinking I could use some unbalanced stock to walk the lathe out of the way for cleaning, then run the same stock in reverse to walk it back into place. Might require a little training - simple commands like "come," "stay" and "heel."

Jon, if you find yourself down here with some time, look me up. I'll find you some osage orange and you can give my your thoughts in person.

Dan, I have the anti-fatigue pads, but it never occurred to me to put an extra one under the lathe to catch the curlies. Thanks.

I realized that responding to everyone individually was creating a lot of extra posts. I appreciate the advice. Thanks, all.

[Ed Morgano]

Doug,
My lathe is tight up against the wall.....BUT, I have the back side totally closed off with a plexiglass box that has a dust port at the top. It really works well and I never have to go behind the lathe. Here's a picture of the setup.

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[Jamie Donaldson]

Doug- I also think that placing the lathe perpendicular to the wall would be a better floor plan. But without seeing what is located nearer the center of the shop, we don't know what space you would have to spare when walking around the tailstock end sticking out. My tablesaw, planer and jointer have been stored on the far side of my shop under a tarp for about the last 20 yrs. to make room for my 3 lathes!

[Tom Hardy]

Fred, Tom Hardy suggested that while I was waiting for delivery of the lathe. He has one on his and uses shims between the board and the bed to reduce vibration. I thought he had a 4x6, but looks like a 6x8 will fit. I haven't gotten around to actually shimming it. I can just squeeze my hand in there to tighten the nuts on the tailstock and tool rest.

Will, I got to thinking I could use some unbalanced stock to walk the lathe out of the way for cleaning, then run the same stock in reverse to walk it back into place. Might require a little training - simple commands like "come," "stay" and "heel."

Jon, if you find yourself down here with some time, look me up. I'll find you some osage orange and you can give my your thoughts in person.

Dan, I have the anti-fatigue pads, but it never occurred to me to put an extra one under the lathe to catch the curlies. Thanks.

I realized that responding to everyone individually was creating a lot of extra posts. I appreciate the advice. Thanks, all.

As you stated earlier the powermatic is sturdier because its bed is thicker and shorter. Alot of times I like to turn heavier items with the head stock in the middle of the bed, I find it easier on large items to get my self positioned better for working on them. Easier to get from front, to tail stock and to back side if needed. That being said, with heavy items in the middle I got annoying vibration from the longer, less heavier bed of the grizzly. With the bed supported like in the photo I posted on Green Grizzly Monster Group, the vibration was virtually gone . Also the need for space behind the lathe for this, clean up & positioning the dust collector hood I find real handy too. and if you decide to bolt it down I have some extra anchors & bit if you like. let me know and ill send them.

[robert baccus]

Doug, all this is good advice but consider one more solution. i moved my monster to an outside wall and mounted a 32" fan right behind it. best thing i ever did. all the dust and laquer spray go outside. mounted a 2 speed switch on the lathe to limit the exhaust in winter. also added 1/4" plywood baffels to help direct the "vacum" effect. i seldom have to use a mask--only on toxic stuff. a bit harder to clean behind but a child's leafrake does it ok. heck, who wants a clean shop!----------------old forester PS. Do consider mama's clothes line location.

[Jim Sebring]

I have two lathes fairly close together at about a 45 degree angle to the wall. I originally had the Jet 1220 on a bench parallel to the wall under the window. To fit the Nova DVRxp in, I turned both machines to angle away from the window. The light is still good, and cleanup behind is pretty easy. The DVR is just far enough away from the wall that the knockout bar fits.222140

[Doug Herzberg]

Thanks for all your comments. I don't mean to solicit more comments on every variation I come up with, but if anyone was wondering if it works, I think it will.

This is embarrassing on several levels. First, the shop is only 21x25. It helps to measure. Second, in the age of computers, the best thing I can come up with is little cutouts, approximately to scale, and poster putty.


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The shop right now is above (Scan4). Down the west wall from the north: Bench Mortiser, Oscillating Spindle Sander, Rikon Bandsaw, Lathe, Grinder. Centered between the garage doors on the north is the Drill Press. Down the east wall from north: Lumber storage, RAS, compressor under RAS. South Wall: Belt Sanders, sideboard, DC (DC is connected to a 6" trunk line that runs N to S down the center from the drill press). Left Center, from north: two table saws, back to back, connected by a shared outfeed table. Right Center, from north: Planer, Jointer. Displaced by the new lathe and bandsaw, outside on the north: Shaper, scrollsaw and the old 12" bandsaw. The square and circle in the southeast corner is the clearance area for the wood stove.

Here are three variations I came up with in just a short while:
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The lumber storage, DC and Compressor are moved outside to a new planned addition on the south (Lumber only pictured in last image). In the first one, the lathe is just inside the door; in the second, just north of the fire; and in the third, perpendicular to the south wall.

I think it will work. Thanks again to all. Although I'm not asking for comments, they're welcome.

[Jon Nuckles]

When I am turning, my 3520B is generally at 35-45 degrees to the wall, but I slide it out to use it and slide it back when done. I share my shop with another woodworker, so I slide it out of the way every day even if I will go right back to turning the next day.
I do like to pull it out even further to hollow from the backside at times. The tailstock end slides pretty easily when the headstock is all the way to the left and the tailstock is off or tight against the headstock and banjo. My shop floors are painted wood and fairly smooth for an old building, but there is some lifting involved. Probably not a good idea if you have a bad back. Maybe the wheels that Craft Supplies (and others, I am sure) sells would work for you if you don't have to bolt your lathe in place.

[Roy Turbett]

I have my three Powermatic 90's perpendicular to the wall with lathe #1, the grinder (against the wall), and lathe #2 in a U shape configuation. Lathe #3 is back to back with lathe #2 and has the factory guard. Lathes 2 and 3 are about 2' out from the wall to give access to the dust collection ports and wall cabinets. All told, about 15' of wall space is used. My Jet mini is on the other side of the shop and is against the wall.

[Doug Herzberg]

I have my three Powermatic 90's perpendicular to the wall with lathe #1, the grinder (against the wall), and lathe #2 in a U shape configuation. Lathe #3 is back to back with lathe #2 and has the factory guard. Lathes 2 and 3 are about 2' out from the wall to give access to the dust collection ports and wall cabinets. All told, about 15' of wall space is used. My Jet mini is on the other side of the shop and is against the wall.

Wait 'til SWMBO hears this. Four lathes. Three Powermatics. How many shoes could a girl buy for the price of that equipment? It sound wonderful, but it will never happen for me.

I have pretty much been convinced to position it perpendicular to a wall. I'm working now on traffic and work flow patterns. Have you had any issue with the lathes getting in the way of the tool handles when you grind? How much space between lathe #1 and #2?

[Baxter Smith]

Looks like you can position your lathe perpendicular to the wall which is a benefit for a sliding headstock. Just a thought or two that may or may not work for you. It is nice to have a workbench, bandsaw and lathe in somewhat close proximity to one another. Both for ease of use and keeping the mess a little more contained in one area of your shop when turning. Being able to see the door when standing at the lathe is another plus.

[John Spitters]

If all you are doing in your shop is "turning" then you'll have many more options available for your lathe placement. However like many others I use my shop for flatwork as well so need to keep in mind that I need the ability to use all of my other tools without having to move the lathe out of the way. The best solution that I could come up with is having the lathe in a corner parrallel and apx. 2 + ft from the wall giving me ample room to clean in behind the lathe. it also allowed for a drop for the DC near the headstock of the lathe, then just to my right I was able to hang a tool cabinet and now have easy and safe access to my turning tools when working at the lathe, other less used items are hung on the wall behind the lathe. Another plus of having the lathe in a corner is that it was easy to wall off with curtains to contain the chips.

[Tim McClelland]

Although I am ambidextrous for a lot of things I tend to be mostly a lefty. Being able to get to the other side of my lathe has proved to be more comfortable at times. I usually work from the front but at times it just doesn't feel right. I'm glad to read that others move around the back also even if only on a rare occasion. Thanks for all the info.

[Dean Chapel]

I believe it was in a Raffan video that I saw a layout with a table/bench on the backside of the lathe. Shavings pile up and are easily brushed off, there is a nice platform for things to lie on, and you'll never haver to bend over to pick something up back there. I can imagine a bench with a folding leaf (like in pubs) that you could fold up so you could work the lathe from the back side if needed, but when down fulfill the purpose of a table/bench top.

[Roy Turbett]

Wait 'til SWMBO hears this. Four lathes. Three Powermatics. How many shoes could a girl buy for the price of that equipment? It sound wonderful, but it will never happen for me.

I have pretty much been convinced to position it perpendicular to a wall. I'm working now on traffic and work flow patterns. Have you had any issue with the lathes getting in the way of the tool handles when you grind? How much space between lathe #1 and #2?

Doug - In answer to your question, lathe #1 has the tailstock toward the wall, then about 2' wall space, then 3' for the grinding station, then 2' wall space, then lathe #2 with the headstock toward the wall, then about 2' , then lathe #3 with factory guard back to back with the lathe #2. There's enough room for two people to work on lathe #1 and lathe #2 at the same time and use the grinder as necessary.

[Doug Herzberg]

Baxter, thanks for the insight. I don't like people sneaking up on me while I'm working.
John, that's a nice looking shop. Man that's a lot of PVC! My dad was a plumbing and HVAC guy, so I think of PVC for fluids and tin for air and that's how my shop ended up.
Dean, I had my old tube lathe positioned like that, but the table was a catch-all for everything and pretty soon everything was all covered up with shavings.
Roy, Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense.