Door stopper - Any ideas?

[Rob Wong]

I just bought a new washing machine that sticks out front more than the old one so now when I open my door to go into the house the door hits the front of the washer. I can't move it further in or relocate as the plumbing is set up there. It has to stop the door in less than 90 degrees. I tried the hinge type but it didn't won't work for me. Any of you needed to do this? Please show me.

Thanks,
Rob

[John Coloccia]

I just bought a new washing machine that sticks out front more than the old one so now when I open my door to go into the house the door hits the front of the washer. I can't move it further in or relocate as the plumbing is set up there. It has to stop the door in less than 90 degrees. I tried the hinge type but it didn't won't work for me. Any of you needed to do this? Please show me.

Thanks,
Rob

Why didn't the hinge type work?

Anyhow, you can always put a bumper on the floor....or just pad the washing machine so when you slam into it, it doesn't matter.

[Rick Moyer]

Could you epoxy a magnet onto the bottom of one and stick it on the front of the washer?

[Charles Lent]

What's behind the door when it is open (besides the corner of the washer)? If that part of the floor has no foot traffic you could add a strip of wood on the floor, or perhaps a raised platform, that stops the door just before it hits the washer.

Charley

[Bill Edwards(2)]

Use a "Stick in place" rubber stopper. The type that are shaped like hallf a rubber ball.

We had a similar problem with a side by side frig in a recessed area. The door hit the

wall when opened. It may seem out of place at first. Put the results pretty much offset

that.

[Rob Wong]

Why didn't the hinge type work?

Anyhow, you can always put a bumper on the floor....or just pad the washing machine so when you slam into it, it doesn't matter.

The hinge type didn't work because I have this molding around the door that it would hit half on and half off and also the hinge would move a little and that didn't look like it would be good in the long run. It looked to stress the door hinge as this is an exterior door type so kind of heavy.

I got a wooden one I made that's on the floor now temporarily but don't want to leave it permanent. I'm thinking of the arm on top of the door. Any of you usd that type?

thanks,
Rob

[ray hampton]

a arm on the top will be better but a door into the wall would be my pick if this is possible

[Rob Wong]

a arm on the top will be better but a door into the wall would be my pick if this is possible


Door into the wall?

[John A langley]

Rob. Washing machines last a long time. If you have room on the other side of the door, I'd move the door over. It would be relatively easy if it is a non-bearing wall. If it is a bearing wall it will be a little harder but not impossible. If it was mine that is what I would do.

[John A langley]

Rob. I think Ray is talking about a pocket door which is an excellent idea if there is no electrical or plumbing in the wall. All others would look and be temporary.

[Don Morris]

Don't know what kind of floor you have but a "floor stop" might be worth looking into.

[Rich Engelhardt]

How about just running 3" or 5" screws into each hinge and putting one of the hinge stops on each hinge?
Nothing says you have to use just one.
By using the 3" or 5" screws you'd make the hinge beefier to better stand up to any extra leverage the stops exerted.
I might even go so far as to pull the trim and see if I could add more material between the stud and the jamb for screws to bite into.

Just be very, very, very careful when driving the longer screws. It's very easy to pull the door out of alignment.

[Bill Edwards(2)]

Aw c'mon.

A couple bucks.

No screws, nails, saws or power tools.

If it doesn't work... you're out a couple of bucks:

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[Charles Wiggins]

Rob,

Try a hinge mounted door stop. I use a couple at our back door to keep it from hitting the fireplace mantle. I got better results with heavier doors by putting one on each hinge and adjusting them to match.

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Cheers,
Charles

[Art Mulder]

Try a hinge mounted door stop. I use a couple at our back door to keep it from hitting the fireplace mantle. I got better results with heavier doors by putting one on each hinge and adjusting them to match.

I'll echo Charles and John.

In my mudroom, the door opens into the clothes dryer. The old dryer had a nice dent from the doorknob.
When we replaced the unit I picked up TWO hinge stops, just like the one in Charles' photo. We put one on the top and one on the bottom. It does a pretty good job of stopping the door. Having two of them prevents the door from twisting, and also spreads the load so they have an easier time. I could even add a third, since it is an exterior.

But yes, another option would be a top-mounted door closer. That is code now for doors into garages, (at least here in Ontario it is) so I really should have one on there anyway.

[glenn bradley]

+1 on rubber bumper. Minimal hinge stress and easy install.

[Myk Rian]

I don't like the hinge stoppers because they bend the hinge.
I made a door stop using my Wife's foot. I traced around her foot, cut a regular wedge, and made the door stop in the shape of her foot.
Put some carpet non-skid on the bottom of it. Just lay it on the floor where you want the door to stop.

[Jim Finn]

I had a similar problem and I just removed the door and stored it in my attic.