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Mike Holbrook
01-31-2012, 12:33 AM
I won an auction for a Atkins 22", 8ppi panel saw. The seller stated that the blade was straight but what I have is a plate with a curve or kink in the front third. There is a visible area when the saw is turned in the light just right. The problem is not a definable line but it is more than a gentle curve. It is easiest to see on the toothed side of the blade. I made a couple cuts with the saw. The teeth are reasonably sharp and the bend in the blade did not seem to cause the saw to cut off. I was able to cut 1/4" slices off a 2x4 easily.

I believe I have read that smaller curves can be removed or improved, but kinks in the steel do not come out. As I recall the suggestion was to heat the blade up and then bend it back? I was hoping someone could provide a little more detail or point me toward an instructional link. I did some searching and did not find anything related. I like the saw. I cleaned the blade up. The handle is in good shape but I am thinking about stripping it and refinishing it. If I can just improve that bend in the blade...

Jim Koepke
01-31-2012, 3:56 AM
For some reason the search function is not what it used to be. It seems to get broken every time the software gets bumped a notch.

In the Sticky: Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs down in section 9 Rehabbing Old Tools are a few articles by Bob Smalser that should help.

Good luck,

jtk

Christian Castillo
01-31-2012, 4:28 AM
If I recall correctly, George Wilson said that it is possible to remove slight curvature by heating the saw plate with boiling water and then bending it untill straight.

Jack Curtis
01-31-2012, 4:39 AM
Yes, it was George; and he also said to be sure and wear heavy gloves (leather?) since the blade would go HOT.

Mike Holbrook
01-31-2012, 8:15 AM
I put it back together this morning. It looks good with a cleaned up blade. The handle is in great shape, has a different leaf and flower or fruit pattern etched quite deep in the handle ( see link). The bend is visible looking down the blade but not looking at the side of the blade at all. It sawed thin slices of 2x4 pretty straight so I think I will leave it as is for now. I am not sure what boiling water might do to the temper of the blade? I am also wondering if a little use may work it out a little? I would place this bend as borderline in regard to whether it needs to be fixed or not. I got it for about $25 so I guess I can't complain too much.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16891057@N05/6795367197/in/photostream/lightbox/

David Posey
01-31-2012, 10:19 AM
Mike,

Bob Smalser also has a tutorial on straightening bent handsaw blades. What he lists as step 1 might just fix your problem:
bend the blade using your hands in as complete a circle as possible….in both directions. This relieves any recent stress put in the saw, and sometimes makes the existing kink worse or reveals additional problems like bow or twist.



I'd try that before I'd try anything else. I know it's worked on my saws to straighten some of them out before. I'd be reluctant to try the rest of what Bob says on that saw if it's tracking ok now. Good luck with it.

george wilson
01-31-2012, 11:16 AM
Yes,when we were making a big bunch of cross cut and rip saws for the Historic Area,we found that the spring steel,which had been wrapped in a coil from the manufacturer,would just NOT get out of the little bit of curve that it retained from the coil. We found that just getting the blade hot,but far from hot enough to spoil the temper,would let the metal be bent till straight. Work fast- the thin blade won't hold heat but a few seconds.

Mike Holbrook
02-01-2012, 12:54 AM
Great guys, thanks for the suggestions, just what I was looking for!

I tried flexing the blade around the bend and I thought it might have helped. Now that I have heard this suggested I will go ahead and try that in a little more earnest. If that does not get me err straightened out I will try a little, not too much, heat George.

David Posey
02-01-2012, 8:02 AM
The boiling point of water is well below what it takes to draw temper on the steel in that saw. The biggest concern with George's method is (your) safety and speed, but it's perfectly safe for the heat treatment of the saw. Just don't do something that WILL make the saw do wonky things like use a heat gun on it. Then it might not be good for anything but the saw painters.