Pennstate portable panel saw system 2 PPS-2

[Larry Browning]

Anybody got one of these? I just got mine delivered. I have not set it up yet, but am planning to do so this evening. I want to install a hardboard cutting guide, but I have some questions about the instructions in the manual. It says to make the hardboard guide 12" shorter than the rail. Does that mean that when the 2 rails are joined there will be a 12" gap in the cutting guide at the joint? The main reason for the cutting guide is to add stiffness to prevent deflection. It seems to me that the joint would be the weakest point and they are suggesting that there be no support in that area? What's up with that? Where should I drill through the fence rail? I was thinking right in between the 2 track slots, that way I could extend the cutting guide all the way to the end of the fence where the 2 join. I would then cut slots in the guide where the tracks are to allow for tightening the connection bars. Also, they are suggesting a narrow strip or hardboard on the outside bottom edge of the tracking plate for support. It seems to me that it would be a good idea to make that support piece extend all to way to the edge of the cutting guide. That way it could be used as a zero clearance plate as well. Good idea/bad idea? What has been you experience with installing the cutting guide?

[fRED mCnEILL]

I bought one of these for my son for Christmas. What I found was that it is very diffilcult to get it straight when you simply join the two rails together and tighten the set screws. My solution was to clamp a straight edge accross the joint(I use a piece of alum. angle 2 feet long and 3/8ths thick) and THEN tighten the set screws. If I was going to mount it to a hardwood base (which I think is a good idea) I would do it the full length.This, of course, negates the use of only one rail for cutting. The deflection comes at the joint of the two rails. I think that each rail individually is plenty stiff. I also permanently mounted a saw(that I bought used) to the carriage.

Good luck

Fred.

[Jerome Hanby]

I've had one for years. I've never had a problem with it not being straight when I bolted the rails together, but that may just be a difference it what's acceptable as straight.

Yes, as instructed, adding the hardboard does leave a gap. The supplied clamps need to run in the slots on the underside of the rail and if you run the hardboard the full length, then you have covered the slots. with that said, those clamps have been in a drawer in my toolbox for over two years without seeing the light of day, I use two small F clamps to secure the rails. I've considered changing the hardboard on one of my rails to overlap the end and basically fill that gap when I bold the rails together. I figure I could drill and tap another hole for a screw to secure that "flap" to the other rail. I think the main benefit would be to backup the cut line to give you a cleaner kit, I don't think the hardboard is going to add much stiffness. One additional thing I'd do is use some double sided tape or something similar and attach a hard board runner, slick side down (and maybe wax it to boot) on the outside edge of the saw carriage. That will keep the carriage ridding level without relying on the rail to hold it up (since the hardboard will be elevating the rail a bit. You could probably work out some way to make that strip detachable and use it to close up the saw cut from the outside and give you a practically zero clearance cut... man, that seems like a good idea even if I am the one who typed it, think I may do that this evening...

I think you'll like the PPS. It's probably the best bang for the buck I've accomplished when it comes to woodworking. the Festool is a better solution, but that's a lot of bang per buck to make up...

I agree that dedicating a saw is a good idea, you never have to worry about getting it adjusted back the way you originally had it. I picked up a $5 Craftsman circular saw off the local CL for those rare times I needed a "freehand" saw. A $20 Diablo blade made it a decent enough saw.

One more thought/hint. This may just be me, but I've had problems with loosing those little set screws in the bars you use to clamp the rails together. I took one of the bars with me down to Ace hardware and picked out a handful of set screws that would fit. They can be a little taller than the ones that come with the PPS and still work fine. I'd suggest getting the shinny ones over the black, easier to see them on the shop floor if they fall out... I'd also think about epoxying a rare earth magnet to one of the rails in a convenient spot and leaving a spare Allen wrench that fits those set screws stuck there. That would save me five minutes of fetching the wrench, putting them away then repeating the procedure after I'm through cutting. If I don't get those things put away each time they end up all over the shop and I can never lay hands on the one i need <g>.

[Larry Browning]

Thanks for your responses. So far you guys are just verifying my thinking. I do have 2 saws, One is a nice P-C which I have been using with my homemade guide and the other is a cheap craftsman that I have been using for construction stuff and as a loaner. The arbor on the cheapo has a lot of play in it and think that would be a problem in cutting a straight line. I will probably mount the PC permanently. I guess it can still be removed if I have to.
I am wondering if I extend the cutting guide beyond the end of one of the rails and set it back the same amount on the other might be a better idea to help with alignment when joining the pieces. I would also think that it would reduce deflection if the 2 pieces of hardboard were butted tightly against each other.