Stop tool rest drops for ever

[Bill Wyko]

It just dawned on me, cut a piece of PVC pipe at a length that will hold your tool rest just above center and slide it over the down shaft of the tool rest. Total freedom of movement but it will never drop below center. You could even cut different lengths to go with different tools that may work better at specific heights. :D Cost effective and a new level of safety. Win, Win

Who knows maybe even a candidate for a sticky.:rolleyes:

[Roland Martin]

Well, that's just too simple, Bill :D. Good tip, I'll be giving that a shot, thanks.

[John Keeton]

Bill, that is really a neat idea! I find myself constantly changing the height of my rest for different cuts and different tools, so for the work I do, I am not sure it would help. But, for someone doing a lot of the same cuts, it sure makes a lot of sense!

[Steve Schlumpf]

I think your idea may work well for some folks but, like John, I am constantly changing the height of the tool rest and it wouldn't do anything for me.

[Ken Whitney]

That is a great idea if you need a repeatable tool rest height.

But Reed Gray demos a similar jig in his McNaughton video to "automatically" set the gate height at the correct level.

I don't know if Reed filed a patent on that yet, though.

[James Combs]

I can see where that would be very helpful to some. I do something similar because I use a lot of Easy Wood tools which are best used parallel to the floor. Therefore I want my tool rest at the same height most of the time. My solution is similar to yours in function is to use a collar with set screws on my rest trunk to keep it at the same height.

[Eric Holmquist]

I have one of these for a special tool rest that I use when indexing. I have a flat box rest that I use to draw layout lines for piercing and airbrushing. I use a piece of PVC pipe to ensure that the tip of a pencil flat on the rest is exactly centered on the spindle

[Bob Bergstrom]

My tool rest varies from 1/2" center on big bowl gouges, below to 3/4" above center for shear cutting on larger diameter bowls, but if it works for you that really all that counts. I can see it for carbind tip tools and scrapers

[Dan Hintz]

I may be able to do you one better, Bill. At the top of that PVC piece, but a "wave" shape cut into it (two points 180 degrees apart are high, which smoothly transition to a lower cut 90 degrees either direction. Let's say you're switching between two tools often, one likes the rest right at center, the other has you below center 1/8". With the tool rest sitting on the high points, you're at center... switch to your other tool, so rotate the PVC pipe 90 degrees in either direction, the post is 1/8" below center. You could even put a shallow notch/divot in the high points so the rest kind of "snaps" into position. The low points obviously wouldn't need such divots.

Or even better (I should patent this one ;))... two pieces of pipe, waves cut into both, but the waves are in the middle, touching each other. You increase/decrease the height of your rest by twisting the two pipes relative to each other. You could set up the waves so each small twist moves the rest 1/16". I kinda like that idea :)

[Bill Wyko]

Good idea too Dan. Even for those of you that change tool height, having a collar that won't let the tool rest fall below the center link should be a sort of safety net. My jet will loosen up on occasion and we all know what can happen if some tools fall below the center line.:confused:

[Paul Singer]

This idea is going to work great for me because I have tool rests that were made by my Son in Law and they have a tendency to bottom out on the cam on the tool rest holder which binds when trying to tighten it. This will keep them just above that bind point. Some ideas seem so simple but work so good. Thanks

[Dick Strauss]

My buddy has been using a pvc collar for years that has two levels. The main level of the pvc collar is for used for the bowl gouge where the pvc fits over and stays on the tool post. He also has a step cut about 1/3 the way around into the pvc collar so that he can take it off the post and use the step portion to set the right height for heavy scrapers. I suppose you could make a few more steps as well if needed.

[Wally Dickerman]

Hey Bill, I hate to burst your bubble, but I've been using that trick for at least 40 years. The first one I made was from metal pipe...probably before PVC pipe was invented. Of course I'm so old that it's been said that I invented dirt. What took you so long to come up with the idea? Anybody that ever took a lesson from me used one and many took one home with them after class so I've made lots of them. I have one for each of my tool rests.

It is a very good device. I find that many turners turn with the tool rest at the wrong height.

[Chris Studley]

It would be nice to get a tool rest with a small threaded portion and have a nut that would rest similar to the way the PVC pipe does to adjust the height. Similar to the way the tool bar on a Tormek has the one side threaded for micro adjustment. You could have two of these nuts to jam/hold them in place so they dont turn, similar to the way you set the stop on your drill press.

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Bill;
Great idea and I understand the need for safety that this tube can provide. I also know that it is important to use your toolrest at the correct height for each tool.
I have been using a metal ring with a set screw with a black plastic know to adjust it quickly. For example cutting with a Skew the tool rest needs to be high so just leave the metal ring and pull the rest up about 1/4 inch. If you want to lower from a position held by the ring you reset the ring up on the post by the amount you want the rest to lower and then when you release the post holding screw the rest fall to the new position.
The real saving in time is when you are moving the rest to reposition it for another cut without needing a height change. You simply loosen the post and turn the rest to the new position and re-fasten it. It will stay at the same height.....
Now, I see the PVC tube used in a safety mode by cutting it so the rest is 1/8" below centre so the rest cannot fall any further. This will also keep the rest close to the heights mostly used.
Hope this helps.
Peter F.

[David E Keller]

I've never had my tool rest drop, so I'm not sure I would want one for my lathe... If it ever happens, I'll definitely consider it.

[Reed Gray]

Wally,
I knew that the stop collar had been around forever. Woodcut has one that uses a set screw for their coring system. I am constantly adjusting my tool rest, so they would not work for me. I think I drove Stuart Batty about half crazy when I tool a workshop with him. I am used to setting the tool rest, then turning at whatever height is was set to, either raising or lowering the handle as necessary. Stuart had to have it at exact center height.

I am surprised that only one manufacturer, that I know of, has solved the problem of the self lowering tool rest. The set screw just does not give a good tight hold. Two set screws do little better. A longer handle on the set screw does little as well. The Robust has a through bolt on one side that pulls a wedge into the tool rest shaft, effectively locking it into place. I have to work to get that one to lower, no matter how hard I am turning. Maybe Brent should look into making banjos for the other lathes out there.

robo hippy

[Bill Wyko]

Wally, do you ever teach classes any more? I've never taken a class of any kind. I read the bool on Ray Allen and Malcolm Tibbetts. I've also watched a few videos but other than that, I'm pretty much self taught. I'd be honored to be your student. Green Valley is only about an hour from me.

[Wally Dickerman]

Bill, For about 10 years I taught classes at Tucson Woodcraft on some Saturdays and evening classes at the Green Valley community woodshop. I quit doing that 3 or 4 years ago. I now do some teaching one on one in my own workshop. Maybe we could work something out.

[Bill Wyko]

I would be honored my friend. let me know what I can do. That would be great.

[Michael Mills]

This is what I have been using for a few years, best I remember $3.00 for 2 at AutoZone. Large comfortable wing and no allen wrench to keep up with. If I don't want to use it I just lock it down at the top.
My Nova has a long post so I scribed a line at center, makes it easier for me to look and see how much to adjust up or down.