DIY Router Table Fence with Micro-Adjust and Dust Collection

[Patrick Maloney]

I just wanted to post an update of my router table setup so I can get any input you guys might have. I still need to add a fence, but I'm not sure how to do it. Should I have a split fence that adjusts to the different sized bits, or should I have a fixed split fence with multiple inserts to fit different sized bits? I'm leaning towards the fixed fence so I could theoretically have an insert for each specific bit. Hope the question isn't too confusing :)

Thanks for the help.

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[Jerome Hanby]

Split fence is "easy" to adjust for different size bits. Depending on how it is mounted, you can also tweak the in-feed and out-feed sides to sligtly different depths and use the router table to "joint" material. My Freud fence has separate micro adjusters for each side that occasionally come in handy (and more often are a pain in the neck when I'd rather move both sides together). Maybe the best solution is to build a system that make it easy to swap fences and build both styles...

[ian maybury]

Incra have some videos on their Incremental Tools site selling their Wonder Fence set up - which shows the fairly comprehensive set of functions and adjustments they have built into their unit. Taking a look might at least help you figure out the functions you need for your example. There's downloadable copies of the manual available too which has good drawings and a bit more information in it...

ian

[Terry Hatfield]

I would suggest that you build a fixed fence with T tracks on the face so you could add aux. fences. That would be the best of both worlds.

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You can use the T track to attach split fences so you can have specific fence sets for whatever bits you want to use. This fence is specifically for my vertical raised panel bit for example.

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Hope that helps,

Terry

[Jerome Hanby]

That sounds like a good suggestion...or just spend a chunk of change and buy the Incra adjuster and wonder fence <g>.


I would suggest that you build a fixed fence with T tracks on the face so you could add aux. fences. That would be the best of both worlds.

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You can use the T track to attach split fences so you can have specific fence sets for whatever bits you want to use. This fence is specifically for my vertical raised panel bit for example.

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Hope that helps,

Terry

[Terry Hatfield]

That sounds like a good suggestion...or just spend a chunk of change and buy the Incra adjuster and wonder fence <g>.

Seems I'm always torn between the buy or build on whatever it is that I need but I most often opt for build if I can. My setup is not fancy and it certainly lacks micro-anything but it works well and does what I need it to do. I especially like the T tracks for attaching acessories like the split fences, custom fences and feather boards. I checked out the new Woodpecker's lift and router table system last weekend at the WWing show in KC and I was drooling over all the neat things that it does. I did buy a set of their adjustable pressure feather boards. They were just too cool to pass up!

[Patrick Maloney]

Thanks for the input everyone. I had never looked into the Incra systems. They do look very nice and functional, but I'm on a budget. I'll stick with my homemade version and pocket the $400+.

So it looks like a 2-piece fence mounted on T-Track (for zero-clearance and/or attachments) is the best way to go? I like the ability to shim one side for joining, since I don't have a joiner. As for the micro-adjustable part, I think I have a pretty simple design if anyone is interested in the details.

[Jim Andrew]

I built my own fence, put a piece of t track to use featherboard hold downs, made those too. Got the mlcs track, didn't like it till I found some 1/4" toilet hold down bolts. One thing I would like is a 4" flange for the dust hose, find 4" hooked to the dust collector works pretty well on some cuts, not all. For grooves, it is no good, need under table dust collection for that.

[Ole Anderson]

I started with the Freud system at a bit over $100 and swapped in my own fence which can be changed out for different uses. The only use I see for a true split fence is for jointing, which is much easier to perform on a jointer. I have a tall fence for flush trimming plywood edging and a few special sleds for other uses. With undertable dust collection and the 2.5" at the top I get probably 95% or better. The last setup is for the lock miter bit when the wood must be flush on the table vs using the aluminum cope and stick sled. Patrick, the Freud is a true split fence system for jointing without having to shim one side of the fence. The adjuster knobs are calibrated to allow a measured amount of differential between each side. I chose to bypass that feature with a solid fence as I have a jointer albiet an old Sears King-Seeley.

[Jerome Hanby]

I started with the Freud system at a bit over $100 and swapped in my own fence which can be changed out for different uses. The only use I see for a true split fence is for jointing, which is much easier to perform on a jointer. I have a tall fence for flush trimming plywood edging and a few special sleds for other uses. With undertable dust collection and the 2.5" at the top I get probably 95% or better. The last setup is for the lock miter bit when the wood must be flush on the table vs using the aluminum cope and stick sled.

I've thought of adding fences like those to mine but one thing bothered me, the micro adjusts knobs. Have you seen any problems trying to adjust both of them together with the solid fence attached? I've been thinking about how to "gang" them together, but haven't come up with anything practical yet...

[Ole Anderson]

I've thought of adding fences like those to mine but one thing bothered me, the micro adjusts knobs. Have you seen any problems trying to adjust both of them together with the solid fence attached? I've been thinking about how to "gang" them together, but haven't come up with anything practical yet...

I have no problem with the 2 knobs, if you don't turn them an equal amount, it just angles the fence. If I want the fence parallel to the miter slot, I just use a steel ruler and measure off the slot. For most operations such as a roundover, just move the fence so it lines up with the pilot bearing and fine tune it with the knobs, being parallel with the slot is not necessary unless you are using a sled.

[ian maybury]

Some nice stuff there Ole.

On DIY fences. The one capability that the Incra systems brings to the party is the ability to move the fence by an accurately pre-determined amount - and to accurately return to a previous setting. Off setting one fence relative to another can probably be done using shims - even paper or card.

One possibility that comes to mind is that in addition to the relatively expensive LS positioners Incra offer two low cost options both of which give positioning using their 'tooth' system, that's a basic plastic positioner to which you can direct mount a fence (there's an explanatory video at the link), or what they call their Track system which could possibly be used in some sort of DIY fence positioning system:

http://www.incrementaltools.com/Original_INCRA_Jig_with_1_hour_Instructional_DVD_p/ij32.htm

http://www.incrementaltools.com/INCRA_Track_System_36_p/tracksys36.htm

These are options for use with e.g. drilling tables and the like too.

Just a thought....

ian

[Ole Anderson]

Patrick,

Looking at your setup, I am not sure some of us answered your question very well. I now see that your router is attached directly to the table without a plate. That can be problematic with different sized bits, varying from a half inch straight bit to a 3 inch panel raising bit. At some point you will really need a router plate with removable rings to adjust the hole somewhat to fit your bit. I am sure it is on your wish list. Your dust collection looks like it should work quite well presuming you have a 4" collector pipe or hose under your table to an enclosed box. Which brings up the issue of raising the bit. I presume you have a plunge router, can you easily access the raising mechanism and the collet? If you plan on attaching a fence to your dust collection box you can disregard most of the responses, including mine, regarding the Incra or Freud system and you are probably best off building your own as Terry suggested. It looks like your fence will be quite rigid, similar to a table saw fence. I have a couple of questions: What router are you using, how far from the bit to the end of the table there you would stand (it looks like you might have a bit of a reach, but the end of the table doesn't show in the pic) and could you post a few more pics showing the full extent of the table and under the table. Just trying to get a feel for your setup.

[Patrick Maloney]

Ole,

You are correct, I will eventually install a router plate. I just don't like buying stuff until I know I need it, and so far I haven't need it. I have made a lot of progress on the fence system, so here are the pictures. I'm probably not explaining everything enough, so if you have questions just let me know. As always, I appreciate comments and constructive criticism!

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I didn't want multiple hoses cluttering up my limited workspace, so I designed everything (including electric) to come in at one point on the back. The DC ducting pivots down from the ceiling using rope and pulleys. Then I just have to connect the hose with a 1/4 turn and plug in the electric.


This shows the diverter box, which is where the main DC duct plugs into. In order to switch between tablesaw and router (since I didn't want to divide it between the two) I made what I'm calling a diverter box. Inside is a door that's attached to some linkages and a lever, so you can easily switch DC between the tablesaw & router, without compromising suction on either one.
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This is obviously under the table & inside the router box. The 6" duct collects from above and below the table. It pulls hard enough that I have to pry the piece off the table.
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Here is the completed (I think) fence. I wanted a coarse and fine adjustment and came up with a way to do it. Coarse adjust is infinitely variable, just like the tablesaw fence (same design), but the dust collection only works within the normal useable range of 6" or so (since the bottom of the fence has to align with the hole in the table).
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The black knob is the fine adjustment. Rotating it clockwise pulls a pair of wedges inside the box, which sit between the sliding carriage (which the fence is mounted to) and the back. This pushes the fence out for a range of about 3/8". Rotating the other way allows spring pressure to push the wedges back, while spring tension retracts the carriage (and thus the fence). I think this design could be adapted to a split carriage/fence design with multiple adjustable wedges to incorporate a true split fence system, although I don't know if it would be worth the trouble. Time will tell.
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This clamp is to secure the right side of the fence, to prevent any deflection. Again, it uses the same rail as the tablesaw fence.
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[Ole Anderson]

Wow, somebody else that likes to spend as much (or more) time on shop setup as on projects. The sliding wedge gizmo is quite ingenious. Very nice.

[Patrick Maloney]

Thanks Ole. All I've done for the better part of a year and a half is work on the shop, but it's only temporary. I figure if I do everything right the first time, then I won't ever have to upgrade and I'll have a LONG time to build furniture.

[Tim Howell]

223435223436223437I prefer aone piece solid fence. So I used 2”x3” box aluminum with a vacuum chamberaround the bit. Put a sub fence on that with 6 short T-tracks segments. Thatway I always have a straight line, strong no flex fence. I put 2” angle on theback of the box too for strength. On thefront of the sub fence I mount a left and right split fence. I used a 10”machine way as my forward & aft micro (.001) adjustment. My own invention was to use a bar set parallelto the bit and put the left fence on top of the right fence. That way I can usethe router table as a jointer and also cut to width at the same time by movingthe fence back. The bar locks at the table edge and via a slot, bolts to myhome made plate. I use a straight ¾ bit for jointing. I did not use any slot inthe table because I don’t want to weaken it. I preferred a free floatingfeather board setup, plus I can use it for other things too, like on my saw, drill oretc. All indexing is done off the fence not a sloppy t-track that may not bethe right distance from the fence for what I’m doing. I made everything exceptthe machine ways and the t-track. 9" of range on the fence. The fence glides on 6 nylon pads on the bottom of the box so there is little friction and no maring of the table top.

[Patrick Maloney]

Tim, that's one heavy-duty fence! Looks good.

I've been trying out mine with some raised panels and mortise & tenon joints. So far it's working great! The dust collection couldn't be better and the micro-adjust on the fence is working perfectly. So far so good :)