How would you raise a stuck head on a Jet JDP 20vs drill press?

[Gary Herrmann]

Been fighting the dp for a couple weeks now. I got an excellent deal on this one - about 20% of retail. It has never been used, was still covered in cosmoline, plastic and in it's shipping crate. It had been sitting in the seller's warehouse for 5 years. Cosmoline is really hard to get off after that much time.

I've cleaned everything on the column I can reach. Even taking the access plate off to get as much of the column covered by the head as I can. The head locks are loose and the collar is several inches below the head.

The manual says use a 2x4, block it between the table and the head and use the table raising mechanism to push the head up. Nope.
I tried using an engine hoist to raise the head. Even letting it dangle for a couple days. Nope.
I (240 lbs) tried standing on the base while my wife cranked the hoist up. Nope.
I tried putting tension on the head with the hoist and then using the 2x4 and table mechanism to raise the head. Nope.
I've sprayed WD-40, Kroil, Goo Gone and kerosene down the column and let it drip past the head, but it still won't raise.

I can turn the head, but it seems that the column is turning with it, because I couldn't see the far side of the column through the access plate (which should have some cosmoline still on it).

Not getting anything done in the shop because I can't let something like this go. But I'm running out of ideas. Thinking about bolting it to the floor, but I prefer my tools to be mobile.

Ok Creekers, I know a bunch of you have to be smarter than me. What ideas do you have?


Thanks,

Gary

[Kent A Bathurst]

The manual says use a 2x4, block it between the table and the head and use the table raising mechanism to push the head up. Nope.



I think the manual may have left something out. Put the 2 x 4 between the table and the head.....and turn the quill arm, forcing it down onto the block. That's how it's done on my PM1150VS.

[Bruce Page]

Have you tried any heat? I would heat the joint between the column & head by placing an incandescent light on it for a few hours - I wouldn’t use a flame of any kind.

[bob ware]

I've sprayed WD-40, Kroil, Goo Gone and kerosene down the column and let it drip past the head, but it still won't raise.


Can you confirm the Kroil, etc. is actually making it's way between the head and the column? It sounds as though the head is rusted to the column after all those years sitting. How about using that piece of 2x4 along with a small sledge to give a few good whacks upward? Or, loosen the lock collar and try from the top?
Looking at the manual online I don't understand why it wouldn't more otherwise after all that you've tried.

[Dave Wagner]

Make sure there is no shipping screw, allen screw or something holding it somewhere? How about PB Blaster?

[mickey cassiba]

First check for square. Don't hit it, heat it or otherwise abuse it. If the head isn't square to the post...it will bind. If you have to jack it, make sure your jack is as close to the post as possible DAMHIK

[Chris Parks]

Hydraulic jack or Porta Power ram, massive violence is the answer!!

[Jerome Hanby]

Hydraulic jack or Porta Power ram, massive violence is the answer!!

Anyone that says violence is never the answer just doesn't understand the question <g>.

[Matt Winterowd]

A little trick I picked up while restoring some old machines: Get the joint under tension, then apply a sharp force roughly perpendicular to the direction you're trying to move things. Basically, give either the head or the column a few whacks with a mallet when you already have the tension cranked up along the column by either hanging or pressing up on the head with the table mechanism. Sometimes a whack in line with the desired motion works better, but most of the time perpendicular is what's required. I'm not completely sure what the physics are, but once I learned that, it made replacing bearings, pulleys, wheels, etc. soooo much easier.

[ray hampton]

Gary, place the 2x4as close to the tube as possible, you can only move the head so far before it will stop because of cocking, a jack on the side of the tube will help, raise one jack at the time then switch to the other jack, another way to remove the tube will require turning the press upside down and twist the tube out

[Gary Herrmann]

Bob - yes, the various lubes I've tried drip down past the head.

Mickey - the head appears to be square to the column. I'll check again tomorrow when my back isn't sore from messing with the thing.

Bruce, I tried incandescents for a couple hours over the weekend. I'll try that again.

Jerome and Matt, I've tried whacking the head while under suspension - in a variety of directions.

I'm going to call Jet tomorrow and see what they suggest. Maybe there's a burr on the column or maybe I just haven't gotten all the concrete off the column where the head surrounds it.


Ugh. So far, I've gotten a killer deal on 740 lbs of ballast. Thanks all, for the ideas. Keep em coming please.

[Bruce Page]

Gary, any progress on breaking the head loose?

[Steve Jenkins]

i guess i just don't understand. why do you need to raise the head? Is it at the bottom of the column?

[John Coloccia]

I believe it ships with the head around the middle of the column, as opposed to smaller drill presses that ship with the heads off completely. I'm guessing it just makes crating easier to not have that head 6 feet in the air. The head on those things must weigh several hundred pounds, I would guess.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Gary
Have you tried ice (in a plastic bag) in the tube where the head is located and some heat (heat gun) on the head? Maybe some Knocker-Lose on the outside of column to help thin out the cosmoline that might still be there. Tom