Dale Maxim
01-29-2012, 1:54 PM
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Open Segmented Assembly Fixture
This is the assembly fixture I use for making the open segmented bowls. I've attached scans of the fixture pieces and pictures of the Parts and Assembly. I used the white veneered Melamine you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's(2'x2' should be plenty).Mine is sized for my lathe which has an 8" center heigth. Cut the grooves for the base and top at the same time with a router table or Dado blade. If you want bigger than 16" rings make the base and corresponding parts bigger. Squarely attach the bed locator to the base. The front is attached next. The heigth(7.75" should be slightly less the the heigth of your center. Build up the clamp carrier and segment locator with the T- track and top( do not attach the mending plate yet). Attach the aluminum angle (1"x1" ) to the Front so it is level with and just touches the center. Heigth and level are critical here. The sides are made next. They need to be cut so that the bottom of the rubber clamp pad just clears the aluminum angle. Then attach the sides and top. The mending plate is then shimmed to ride on the aluminum angle. The holes in the drawing should be located by you as you assemble since screwing in particle board ends is location sensitive. I used this material because glue cleans up easily. You may want to rub a little pam on it also. The clamp is a mini push clamp from Rockler #20766(or other suppliers). Remember the guides on the bottom of the clamp carrier and locate it so that it is behind and just misses the front. To use it you simply locate the edge of the mending plate at the rough ring radius and lock down the T-Track.Slide the fixture assembly on the bed until with the clamp forward there is a liitle pressure on the piece to hold it to the bowl. Slide back the clamp, Glue and attach the segment. Index and repeat. I clamp each segment for 2 minutes ( I use a small kitchen timer as shown) That way I can prepare the next piece while this one is clamping. I use Titebond Molding and Trim Glue since it doesn't run, has a quick tack time, and dries clear. I clean each glue joint corner with a Q-Tip. If you have any questions or something isn't clear either ask or PM me. If anyone builds this please let me know. Finally William Smith's book "Segmented Wood Turning" deserves credit . He has a simpler and cheaper version of mine as well as fixtures for indexing (if you don't have an indexer) and segment cutting sled. It also has a lot of helpful info. and is well worth having. If you are reluctant to try this here are a couple thoughts on open segmented turning: The cutting of the segments is not real critical since they don't touch. After you assemble a ring make sure you sand it flat on the lathe with a 90 degree sanding fixture (I'll explain if you need some help with this.) I run my lathe at about 80% RPM since you are working with an interrupted cut. It is not dangerous but you should use caution and I would suggest thicker wall thicknesses (greater than 1/4") until you are comfortable with the interrupted cut. Remember you are working with about 60% of the glue surface of a normal ring. Finishing is more difficult but doable either by spraying or manully wiping Antique Oil. People seem to be amazed at the finish project since one doesn't see many open segment pieces. It is not as difficult as it seems so give it a try.
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Open Segmented Assembly Fixture
This is the assembly fixture I use for making the open segmented bowls. I've attached scans of the fixture pieces and pictures of the Parts and Assembly. I used the white veneered Melamine you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's(2'x2' should be plenty).Mine is sized for my lathe which has an 8" center heigth. Cut the grooves for the base and top at the same time with a router table or Dado blade. If you want bigger than 16" rings make the base and corresponding parts bigger. Squarely attach the bed locator to the base. The front is attached next. The heigth(7.75" should be slightly less the the heigth of your center. Build up the clamp carrier and segment locator with the T- track and top( do not attach the mending plate yet). Attach the aluminum angle (1"x1" ) to the Front so it is level with and just touches the center. Heigth and level are critical here. The sides are made next. They need to be cut so that the bottom of the rubber clamp pad just clears the aluminum angle. Then attach the sides and top. The mending plate is then shimmed to ride on the aluminum angle. The holes in the drawing should be located by you as you assemble since screwing in particle board ends is location sensitive. I used this material because glue cleans up easily. You may want to rub a little pam on it also. The clamp is a mini push clamp from Rockler #20766(or other suppliers). Remember the guides on the bottom of the clamp carrier and locate it so that it is behind and just misses the front. To use it you simply locate the edge of the mending plate at the rough ring radius and lock down the T-Track.Slide the fixture assembly on the bed until with the clamp forward there is a liitle pressure on the piece to hold it to the bowl. Slide back the clamp, Glue and attach the segment. Index and repeat. I clamp each segment for 2 minutes ( I use a small kitchen timer as shown) That way I can prepare the next piece while this one is clamping. I use Titebond Molding and Trim Glue since it doesn't run, has a quick tack time, and dries clear. I clean each glue joint corner with a Q-Tip. If you have any questions or something isn't clear either ask or PM me. If anyone builds this please let me know. Finally William Smith's book "Segmented Wood Turning" deserves credit . He has a simpler and cheaper version of mine as well as fixtures for indexing (if you don't have an indexer) and segment cutting sled. It also has a lot of helpful info. and is well worth having. If you are reluctant to try this here are a couple thoughts on open segmented turning: The cutting of the segments is not real critical since they don't touch. After you assemble a ring make sure you sand it flat on the lathe with a 90 degree sanding fixture (I'll explain if you need some help with this.) I run my lathe at about 80% RPM since you are working with an interrupted cut. It is not dangerous but you should use caution and I would suggest thicker wall thicknesses (greater than 1/4") until you are comfortable with the interrupted cut. Remember you are working with about 60% of the glue surface of a normal ring. Finishing is more difficult but doable either by spraying or manully wiping Antique Oil. People seem to be amazed at the finish project since one doesn't see many open segment pieces. It is not as difficult as it seems so give it a try.
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