My stupid question for the day! (Do I only get one?)

[Royce Meritt]

OK. Shed some light on this...

Last night I needed to bevel-rip 16 pieces 3/16" T X 1 1/4" W X 50" L for my fishing rod tubes. Both edges need to be beveled to glue into an octagon. Here is my set-up...

TS blade tipped to 22.5 degrees to the left; rip fence 1" to right of TS blade; feather board holding stock against rip fence; feather board holding stock flat to TS table; push stick in right hand; so far, so good...

...the darn feather boards are in the way of the push stick to be able to finish pushing stock past TS blade.

How do I finish the cuts without walking around to the other side of the TS to pull stock through to finish cut? The "hold-down" feather board needs to be right at the leading edge of the blade because of the small thickness and width of the stock. There's probably an easy solution to this that my feeble brain hasn't come up with! Thanks.

[Bill Arnold]

... How do I finish the cuts without walking around to the other side of the TS to pull stock through to finish cut? The "hold-down" feather board needs to be right at the leading edge of the blade because of the small thickness and width of the stock. There's probably an easy solution to this that my feeble brain hasn't come up with! Thanks.
Royce,

Actually, walking around the saw might be your safest option if your featherboards are really secure. This was a foreign thought to me prior to seeing a demo of the Grip-Tite magnetic featherboards and receiving confirmation from users of them. I bought a pair and practiced with the setup, including turning loose of the workpiece, walking around the saw and pulling it the rest of the way through. With multiple pieces, each successive piece can push the previous one, then you walk around and pull the final piece through.

Regards,

[Kenneth Hertzog]

Hi
when you are getting towards the end of the push have a scrap piece the same size to finish the push to get your piece thru. Make sure it is long enough so your fingers are not even close. you should be able to use the same scrap piece over since it is now cut to size.

[Jim W. White]

There is never a need to walk around the saw and pull the peice through.

The key is to make a push block with a sacrifical lip on the back which you saw through as you would the rest of the peice; keeping the blade no higher than it needs to be to adequately rip through the peice. this is the only way to maintain control of the cut throught the entire rip.

...Jim W

[Mark Singer]

I like Board Buddies and when they hold the work you can walk around the saw....I do it all the time

[Jim Becker]

I use the next piece in the run to push the previous one through when feather boards are involved top and sides for "exact" cutting and use a sacrificial piece of the exact same dimensions to push the last one through. It's a good idea to have a large outfeed surface or a helper to insure that your workpieces don't drop to the floor after they clear the blade and splitter, especially with bevels and their delicate edges! Please note the "featherboards top and and sides" and "splitter" configuration for this method! Very important for safety.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

OK. Shed some light on this...

Last night I needed to bevel-rip 16 pieces 3/16" T X 1 1/4" W X 50" L for my fishing rod tubes. Both edges need to be beveled to glue into an octagon. Here is my set-up...

TS blade tipped to 22.5 degrees to the left; rip fence 1" to right of TS blade; feather board holding stock against rip fence; feather board holding stock flat to TS table; push stick in right hand; so far, so good...

...the darn feather boards are in the way of the push stick to be able to finish pushing stock past TS blade.

How do I finish the cuts without walking around to the other side of the TS to pull stock through to finish cut? The "hold-down" feather board needs to be right at the leading edge of the blade because of the small thickness and width of the stock. There's probably an easy solution to this that my feeble brain hasn't come up with! Thanks.


Royce, Please don't call that a stupid question. :) You're making some of us feel like our questions are really, really stupid. That's a good question on technique. I do the method described already with pushing the piece through with a smaller or like size piece. It works great! Alan in Md.