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ian maybury
01-25-2012, 1:40 PM
Hi guys. Here's some photos of yet another router table build. My thanks to all who helped with input, and steered me away from trouble spots - i won't mention names for fear of leaving somebody out. Please bear in mind that it's had very little use yet - so there's no guarantees that problems won't emerge with use.

It's pretty functional in that it's based on the Incra router trolley, table, plate and LS 25in positioner and wonder fence set up - plus two $40 IKEA steel cabinets screwed to the floor which fit the Incra trolley very well. http://www.ikea.com/ie/en/catalog/products/40107872/ Height adjustment via a Router Raizer and extension fitted to a De Walt DW 625.

Not much by way of hand made cabinets and the like. The metal in the IKEA drawers is a little on the light side, but will be fine if not abused. The inserts are polyethylene packaging foam from a packaging supplier. It's dead cheap, cuts and machines easily (you can manually rout impressions to locate tools), and doesn't soak oil.

It's my first proper table, but a few trial cuts suggest it's going to open up all sorts of possibilities. Pleasantly surprised at the quality of finish it's delivering and the precision - and dead pleased with the Incra stuff.

The dust collection is a little unusual. With the extra puff of a 16in impeller Pentz/Clear Vue system available there's an extra inlet to the dust box with about a 4in length of 4in duct and a collection hood on it - to be positioned using a clamp on bracket as needed by cuts that don't collect so well with the stock round cutter and thro fence arrangements. e.g. a blind slot in a wide panel. It's also intended to fill the air cleaning function mentioned before by pulling in whatever escaped dust it may catch. When not in use it can be left packed away under the end of the table as in the photo. It seemed a more useful option than bleed holes in the dust box under the table.

The table is offset to one end on the trolley to facilitate this, and fitting the dust box.

The dust box is deep to minimise any risk of sucking air away from the router's cooling inlet, and has a sloped side to help clearance - but is otherwise standard. The dust system connection is 6in, while the branch to the fence is 4in (what i had to hand - even though it's larger than the fence port it's all downhill) and soldered to the 6in fitting. It'll win no prizes as a free flowing layout, but space was tight.

The dust system easily supports it - even with the 4in flex wide open (can add a blast gate later if needed) it's still pulling hard through the table and the fence - enough to create a definite 'pull down' effect and some noise. It seems on the fence based cuts tried so far to give 100% pick up of visible stuff, with absolutely nothing left in the box.

The right angle connection into the dust box swivels. It's a bend in plastic sewer pipe with a male at one end, and a female/collar with a rubber sealing ring the other. The collar was cut off the end and bonded into the dust box, the male end pushes into it, and a metal male spiral duct joining sleeve is bonded in the cut end to make a reduced diameter spigot to take the flex hose.

The adhesive may be of interest. It's one of those single part structural bonding polyurethanes sold in 300ml aluminium cartridges to the auto repair trade for windscreen and body panel binding. It doesn't foam, skins in an hour or two and cures through several mm overnight. Cheap at about $7 per cartridge, very easy to handle, has good gap filling, sticks like hell to metal, wood, plastics and the like and gives nice smooth and (probably) paintable gloss finish. (it's nothing like the usual woodworking polyurethanes to handle) Shelf life is short at a few weeks once opened.

Thanks again...

ian

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Stan Mitchell
01-25-2012, 2:07 PM
That's pretty much a deluxe setup - congratulations!

Should be able to do just about anything on that one.

Other folk's router table and cabinet designs are always fun to see - looks like you'll have dust collection to spare.

Coincidentally, I just built a new, larger table top for my New Yankee Workshop version to accommodate an INCRA LS fence system.

It's a great improvement over the home-built version that was on there.


Okay - now we want to see some of those double-double dovetails and such.:D

Andrew Pitonyak
01-25-2012, 2:40 PM
Impressive

Jeff Hamilton Jr.
01-25-2012, 2:46 PM
Ian, that's awesome and timely! I've had the incra LS 25 as it appears you do, looking for the best way to build a table for it. Looks like I've found my answer!

Dont be surprised if you get a few "build" PM's in the future.:D

ian maybury
01-26-2012, 8:08 AM
Thanks for positive feedback. Bear in mind that the approach in using bought parts most of the way was very much geared to getting set up fairly quickly. Just in case - it'd probably be wise for anybody thinking of using the IKEA cabinets to check them out first. They work fine, but the sheet metal is quite thin and they would not stand other than fairly considerate use. I'd look to substitute them with a more workshop quality item if possible.

ian

Don Morris
01-26-2012, 10:42 AM
OK, I'll admit, I'm jealous of your beautiful work. NICE! But I'll bet mine took less time to build. Got to think of something to make me feel better. Thanks for sharing.

ian maybury
01-26-2012, 11:07 AM
It's all relative Don, and a lot to do with our habitual way of seeing stuff. Some of those lovingly made models built on an integrated set of nifty wooden cabinets have been leaving me feeling a bit inadequate. In the end though i mostly just wanted a route to something that would be up and running fairly quickly - but at the same time would work to a standard and last pretty well..

ian