Looking for outfeed table ideas

[Matt Meiser]

There's LOTS of threads here on outfeed tables but it seems like they are all either folding outfeed tables or massive outfeed/assembly tables. I'm looking to do something stationary in between size-wise.

My previous outfeed table had a metal frame I welded up that mounted off the rear rail of the Biesemeyer fence. It was about the width of the cast iron table and 2' deep. That left an awkward corner where the extension table and outfeed table met that I couldn't really use for anything else. Under my old table I had a separate shelf I built that wasn't terribly useful. I stored my blades and a few other bulkier TS accessories there, but it was too deep and was less than 1/2 used by volume.

One thought I have is a series of cubby holes some of which I can store the existing stuff and some I could use for short scraps I save as campfire wood. I probably wouldn't make them more than 16" deep which would allow for a generous overhang and enough room to reach in behind the saw to clean rather than have wasted space in the back of each cubby to collect dust and forgotten accessories.

I also need space to store 2 Incra miter gauges with fences. They currently hang from brackets on the sides of the shelf

[Steve Griffin]

Hi Matt,
Sounds like you already have a plan!

HEre's about all I could think of to contribute:

-I would really dislike storing blades so far from the table saw front. I just built a 15" wide cab. with a 5" drawer for dados, 12" drawer for lateral storage of 10 blades, and two 5" drawer for odds and sods to the right of of the saw. I can change a blade and stand in the same place.

-Firewood in a cabinet? How about a tote or cardboard boxes that get loaded where you actually generate firewood--near the chop saw.

-My outfeed cabinet is topped with white melamine. Spray with drycote once in a while and it is a clean, slick surface.

-No open shelves for me in a shop--I want less work during cleanup, not more.

Just my thoughts, Steve

[Matt Meiser]

Yeah, I think I kind of do know what I want--maybe just looking for pictures to help me validate it. I was already thinking the cubbies on one end should face the side. I have a roll-around tool chest with the wheels removed under the right side of the saw. Its not good for blade storage but is great for shaper cutters and smaller TS accessories including push sticks so I like that being there (otherwise I end up with all my push sticks buried in a pile of stuff on the extension table, which eventually ends up on the floor because I need to push the fence over one..more...inch...crash!.

The MS is directly across from this but good point on maybe storing all those scraps under there instead.

I already bought a sheet of phenolic coated baltic birch for this and my extension table. Going to make for a pretty nice surface!

Did you post photos of your cabinet? Maybe I should consider sliding that rollaround around to the back and leave room for a future second under the outfeed.

[Von Bickley]

Matt,

I don't know how many router tables you have, but you could also hang a router in the outfeed table.

[Russ D Wood]

This system looks interesting and should be a good DIY project. They also sell kits. I have NOT tried them, they just look good. Russ

http://www.ezee-feed.com/

[Matt Meiser]

Well, Steve has me thinking--I think I'm going to instead build a simple outfeed table with room underneath for 2 of the rollaround boxes like I have under the right side of my saw. Then I'll build a new unit to go under the right side with blade storage and some drawers for other accessories.

I only have one of the rollarounds now, but when I come across a scratch and dent or CL deal on another I'll slide that in place. More nice drawers would be a good thing!

And another advantage is that I think I can hang some kind of slideout unit between the back of the saw and the backs of the rollarounds to hang my miter gauges on and maybe even my sled. Still working the details in my mind.

[Jerome Hanby]

Well the way you work, we expect to see pictures of the finished product by Wednesday <g>

[Don Jarvie]

Do a search here for outfeed tables, assembly tables, shop photos, etc and print off the pictures you like. Then take the features you like and design your own table.

[richard poitras]

Matt I just recently built an out feed table for my new saw. What I did was make it somewhat standard in design but I build a shelf / storage high enough that I can slide a pallet jack under the out feed table and it automatically becomes mobile. I also have levelers on the sides of each leg. That way it makes it easy to level to the saw once in place or if used in different areas of the shop depending on how good your floor is. Also I connected the out feed table to the saw with a set of toggle clamps to the fence rail so it connects and disconnects with just a flip of the lever.

Good luck
Richard


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/jLzr6PXUnKh-8HLZzK9Yro5Hxn-rxKqXJLz5CgXoaDXIkJ5fYKBTE4MpuwD4D8zgo8nCTlpQCIK_4 pr5ZiwQ13LwJhxM1zVxJgZA2Y7J25LRHrDgJ3QekErrRuaVArn DSt99-0sMbXISwrKt3iyDnJxSxPqzgXnPs9AztX3ZMM1a (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/url?q=http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Leveler-Wide-Foot/dp/B0037MK8XC&usg=AFQjCNHcgZqOeeIfuqJiewMK20eregCb1g&ei=GsIdT4akEMrImgfF1JjoBg&ved=0CA8Q-hIwAQ)

http://images.grainger.com/B351_26/images/products/250x250/Toggle-Clamp-3CXW5_AS01.JPG

[Steve Griffin]

Here you go Matt, I snapped a few photos of the t-saw cabinet, which seems to be working out well. I wanted to be able to do my most common blade changes without walking anywhere (or bending over).

Built entirely with scraps in a couple hours, I still need some cheap knobs.

While at it, I also built a shaper drawer bank on wheels--unfortunately my shop layout didn't have room for this stuff next to the shaper, so I need to roll it around or walk to get stuff. It has a ply top, which actually will be nice for staging shaper bits/tools during change overs. I've always wanted to use that dead space under the planer anyway.

[Jim Becker]

Matt, you could take from my design in general and rather than making it folding, just extend the "fixed" portion out to where you want it to be. This really isn't a horribly difficult project, either...sketch out what you want and have-at-it. Simple plywood frame and top covered with laminate. Routed slots for miter/sled clearance. Mounted a "proverbial hair" lower than your cast iron top. And you can design whatever storage for under it that makes sense for you, either up front or later.

[Terry Hatfield]

Matt, you could take from my design in general and rather than making it folding, just extend the "fixed" portion out to where you want it to be. This really isn't a horribly difficult project, either...sketch out what you want and have-at-it. Simple plywood frame and top covered with laminate. Routed slots for miter/sled clearance. Mounted a "proverbial hair" lower than your cast iron top. And you can design whatever storage for under it that makes sense for you, either up front or later.

I looked on all my tape measures but I don't see "proverbial hair" anywhere on them, Jim. :)

[Jerome Hanby]

I looked on all my tape measures but I don't see "proverbial hair" anywhere on them, Jim. :)

On mine it's just below that bloody smear from when I let the tape retract without getting my finger out of the way...Not to be confused with the bloody spot on my folding rule from tryingto fold it up while also holding the utility knife. Or the ...well you get the idea <g>.

[Matt Meiser]

I got started tonight building the extension table. The outfeed table is going to be the same construction and I'm going to go with my last idea of leaving space for two roll around units with the wheels removed under the outfeed and building a new unit for under the extension table. But first I need to get the tables done--forgot how bad using a saw with no outfeed support is!

[Dick Brown]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/image.php?u=85967&dateline=1325018354 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?85967-Russ-D-Wood)Russ D Wood (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?85967-Russ-D-Wood) Join Date


Dec 2011Posts18

This system looks interesting and should be a good DIY project. They also sell kits. I have NOT tried them, they just look good. Russ

http://www.ezee-feed.com/ (http://www.ezee-feed.com/)

Matt,
If you were interested in building somthing like the EZEE-FEED, give me a holler. I bought some (actually a BUNCH) of the ball transfers like they are using and have a lot more than I need. Bet you can't beat the price of $2.00 each! Used a bunch for an infeed stand and work so well, I am going to add to it.
Dick

[Terry Hatfield]

On mine it's just below that bloody smear from when I let the tape retract without getting my finger out of the way...Not to be confused with the bloody spot on my folding rule from tryingto fold it up while also holding the utility knife. Or the ...well you get the idea <g>.

Ahhhhh...I see it now. :)

[Terry Hatfield]

I got started tonight building the extension table. The outfeed table is going to be the same construction and I'm going to go with my last idea of leaving space for two roll around units with the wheels removed under the outfeed and building a new unit for under the extension table. But first I need to get the tables done--forgot how bad using a saw with no outfeed support is!

Agree. It's been so long since I had a saw with no outfeed, I'd be lost without it. Looking forward to seeing your design, Matt!

[Chris Rosenberger]

Matt,

I know you already started, but here are pictures of mine.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/100_0891.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/Powermatic66B.jpg

[Matt Meiser]

Wierd fence Chris--look at it from one side and its a Biesemeyer, look at it the other way and its a Unifence. :D

The drawer unit--anything special about the drawers or are they "just drawers?"

[Chris Rosenberger]

Wierd fence Chris--look at it from one side and its a Biesemeyer, look at it the other way and its a Unifence. :D

The drawer unit--anything special about the drawers or are they "just drawers?"

I thought you might notice that.

The top drawer is just a drawer for storing saw blades.

The second drawer is divided for dado & molding heads.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/DSCF1769.jpg

The third & forth drawers are just drawers that I keep spare machine parts in.

The bottom Drawer is for my Incra 5000 & Incra miter gauges.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/DSCF1768.jpg

This is what the Unifence is mounted on. If you notice on this drawer unit, the Incra 5000 is on the floor under the shelf & the miter gauges are on top of the drawer unit.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/Powermatic66.jpg

[Carl Beckett]

My tablesaw has a 26" fence, and the outfeed only spans the cast iron top area (havent seen a big need to go full fence width). For the outfeed table (a stand alone version butted right up against the rear of the machine) - I made it into a sanding downdraft table (lots of holes - which doesnt affect outfeed use).

I consider an outfeed table a critical safety item.

[Matt Meiser]

Ok, here is what I've got so far. I went a little deeper on the outfeed because I had the room and materials. The frames for the tables are 2" wide maple with screwed butt joints. Legs are 5/8 Baltic birch glued and screwed into an L shape with a homemade adjustable foot glued and screwed inside the bottom. I made these from a block of wood, a tee nut, and a 3/8" carriage bolt. The top is 3/4" phenolic covered Baltic birch. Pricey, but nice stuff.

I'm searching for another tool chest for the other open spot. I also want to build something that has a cubby for the sled and some kind of pullout for my miter gauges. And the big item left is a drawer unit for under the extension table.

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[James White]

Matt,

I know you already started, but here are pictures of mine.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/100_0891.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/Powermatic66B.jpg

Chris,

Very nice setup. I am jealous. I wasn't thinking about storage when I built my outfeed table. I think I need to do some modifications. I have already begun to stow stuff under there. I may as well do it rite.

I assume the dust collection is behind the storage portion. Does that mean it has a 90 elbow coming out of the saw?

James

[James White]

Nice job Matt. That phenolic looks phenomenal! Where did you get it and how much was it? Was it a 4x8 sheet?

James

[James White]

I thought you might notice that.

The top drawer is just a drawer for storing saw blades.

The second drawer is divided for dado & molding heads.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/DSCF1769.jpg



Chris,

Is that a table saw molding system? Who makes that?

James

[Chris Rosenberger]

Chris,

Very nice setup. I am jealous. I wasn't thinking about storage when I built my outfeed table. I think I need to do some modifications. I have already begun to stow stuff under there. I may as well do it rite.

I assume the dust collection is behind the storage portion. Does that mean it has a 90 elbow coming out of the saw?

James

The dust collection outlet is in back of the saw & there is a 90 degree fitting behind the saw.


Chris,

Is that a table saw molding system? Who makes that?

James

The purple cutter head & black round inserts are Magic Molder. They were made by a company called LRH. LRH went out of business a couple of years ago. I have heard from a dealer that another company is going to start making the Magic Molder again.

[Matt Meiser]

Nice job Matt. That phenolic looks phenomenal! Where did you get it and how much was it? Was it a 4x8 sheet?

From a local place called Ken Kraft (http://www.kencraftstore.com/ply3.htm). They can UPS 2x4 pieces--enough for a large sled.


Tonight I made the carcase for the drawer unit. I'm planning on 3 4" and 2 6" drawers because I have premade drawer sides in those heights. I got the first drawer made which will be for my blades. This will hold 10 blades which is a few more than I have. Design blatantly stolen from Delta's new Unisaw drawer.

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[Don Morris]

You didn't want a mammoth outfeed table? I built one on Jim Beckers design and it didn't take too long. Works just fine and you can modify it some to meet your particular likes. Definitely take a look at his site.

[Bobby O'Neal]

Love the phenolic. Super sharp look.

[Russ D Wood]

I do a lot of sheet work and I have a 1 man shop, so handling full sheets is not only hard but dangerous. So when I built my table for my TS I made sure that almost any size I wanted to cut would be supported by the table. Russ

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[Steven J Corpstein]

Here is how I did my outfeed. Big enough for how I work and portable.

http://www.datasystemsltd.com/extension

[Phil Thien]

Well the way you work, we expect to see pictures of the finished product by Wednesday <g>

Yeah, and they should include a gloat about buying a like-new cabinet at a scratch and dent price with a coupon for a final price of (let's just say) $25.

[Matt Meiser]

Here's the completed drawer unit under the extension table. Tomorrow will hopefully see work on the unit for right behind the saw.

And I did get another tool chest but had to pay full price for it. Sears seems to have stopped signficantly discounting the scratch and dent stuff. They slightly discount the "crushed and beat to heck" stuff. S&D seems to be the norm for the first quality now. I bought one from Tractor Supply that seems better made than Sears, but it was one from their previous supplier--the new supplier is slightly lighter duty, or about the same as Sears.

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[Matt Meiser]

And here's my sled/miter gauge storage unit. I probably should have done the slides differently but its easy enough to make that change.

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[ian maybury]

Hi Matt, nice work - and you cover ground fast. Just starting to design some infeed/outfeed table extensions using phenolic coated birch ply much like that you seem to have. A couple of questions (or maybe somebody else has experience?):

1. Does it machine OK without damaging edges? For example can you run edges over a jointer and not nick the knives on either the glue in the birch ply, or the phenolic layer?

2. Have you tried gluing the stuff phenolic face to phenolic face? Epoxy is normally compatible with phenolic resins, but it'd depend on how well bonded the phenolic layer is over the ply too.

ian

[Fred Voorhees]

Matt, you could take from my design in general and rather than making it folding, just extend the "fixed" portion out to where you want it to be. This really isn't a horribly difficult project, either...sketch out what you want and have-at-it. Simple plywood frame and top covered with laminate. Routed slots for miter/sled clearance. Mounted a "proverbial hair" lower than your cast iron top. And you can design whatever storage for under it that makes sense for you, either up front or later.

I have used Jims design with both my contractors saw and my current cabinet saw and it worked excellent with both. I have a massive outfeed table on my current cab saw.

[Matt Meiser]

It's pretty durable at the edges but I didn't joint it. I didn't glue either. Just screws.