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View Full Version : What material should I use for shop walls?



John Adank
01-22-2012, 6:55 PM
I was wondering if I could get some suggestions on what material to use to line my shop walls. I will probably drywall two of the walls but I want to use something on the other walls that will permit me to attach tools or other items securely to the wall. I've considered tongue and groove paneling but it is somewhat costly and time consuming to install. I also looked at textured siding which is basically a plywood sheet that looks like it's tongue and grooved.

http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/plywood/5-8-x-4-x-9-textured-siding-8-on-center/p-1508797-c-5836.htm

I guess I'm looking for something that will allow me to screw items or mounts anywhere to the wall without being limited to a wall stud.

Thanks,
John

Ken Fitzgerald
01-22-2012, 8:08 PM
I used 1/2" plywood on the walls of my shop. I hung drywall on the ceiling. I wish I had used plywood on the ceiling too. Though the drywall was cheaper, it had dings in it shortly after it was finished and painted.

Charles Wiggins
01-22-2012, 8:19 PM
I used 7/16" OSB (wall to the right) The price here fluctuates a lot. It was running about $11 a sheet at the time, but I've seen it as low as the mid-$6 range. Obviously, I painted it white. I had to use a long nap roller and it drunk primer. The paint went on a little easier. I've since covered a lot of it with pegboard, but I can pretty much hang anything anywhere I want.

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Dave Wagner
01-22-2012, 8:26 PM
I used OSB and painted it white also. It was only like $6-8/sheet at the time.

Thomas Canfield
01-22-2012, 9:32 PM
I am going to use 3/8" Smart Panel (OSB with pre prime finish) on my new shop after having it on my previous shop. It has some texture, but does take a semi gloss paint well and will hold screws well for mounting smaller items. For really heavy loads, I do make sure to attach to studs or add a mounting frame. It runs about $22 per sheet here. I am planning to butt the joints and caulk the joints if there is much gap showing this time, where there was some screen molding over joints on previous shop that seemed to always be in the way.

Chris Damm
01-23-2012, 8:51 AM
If you use Smartpanel it is very hard and you will need to predrill for most small fasteners. I used it for my polebarn and with a coat of good paint it still looks like new after 8 years. In fact I built a 12x16 shed for a neighbor over a decade ago and it looks good and they never painted it!

Von Bickley
01-23-2012, 9:48 AM
I have 1/2" plywood painted white and it works great for me......

Cameron Handyside
01-23-2012, 10:33 AM
I'm currently installing 1/2" ply in my new shop and think it will work great. I used 3/8" on the ceiling but thought it just a bit too thin for the walls. I want to be able to hang items w/o hitting a stud. I've run the top and bottom course and now have to complete the 24" middle course where all the outlets live...

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Bob Wingard
01-23-2012, 1:23 PM
I used Hardi-Panel with a French cleat all the way around for hanging/mounting. A bit more $$$ but it won't burn .. won't rot .. won't absorb water .. bugs won't touch it .. looks great.

John Adank
01-23-2012, 8:01 PM
Hey Cameron, did you leave the squares around the outlet boxes to make it easier when cutting around the outlets? I assume it would be easier than handling a large sheet.

John Adank
01-23-2012, 8:10 PM
Bob, are the Hardipanels pretty heavy? Isn't that the cement board siding? How easy is it to screw into?

Bob Wingard
01-23-2012, 8:35 PM
Yes .. they are pretty heavy .. I cut all of mine in half (4'X4') but for a different reason. All of my lower panels are glued/screwed to the framing of the shop. The upper panels are screwed only ... THAT's where I ran all of my utilities .. air/water/cable/cat5/120v/240v/etc. If I need to make any changes to the utilities (add a compressed air outlet, for example), I simply remove the appropriate panel(s) .. splice in whatever is required .. replace panel.. I have 10' ceilings, and I just used heavy wallboard for the top 2' border.

Being cement board, it is a bit harder on drill bits & such, but nothing that can't be touched up or resharpened. I installed continuous French Cleat around the entire perimeter at the 8' level, and most everything hangs from or mounts to that. It took about 27 sheets to cover my walls, so, yes, it is a bit more expensive that OSB, but, as I said it won't burn/rot/swell/attract bugs. To me, that made it worthwhile ... oh ... did I mention it takes paint great and looks beautimous.

Cameron Handyside
01-24-2012, 11:16 AM
Sort of. The walls are 10' so I run a 4' course top and bottom, leaving a 2' course around the middle, which is where all the outlets live. My reasoning is that if I need to get behind an outlet, it'll be easier to remove a 2' panel versus a 4'. Also, when running sheetrock, they usually layout in a similar manner so the tape seams are not near the ceiling. I like it so far and am about to finish the 2' run this week. I'll let you know if my plan holds up in the real world.

Bill Edwards(2)
01-24-2012, 11:37 AM
I was wondering if I could get some suggestions on what material to use to line my shop walls. I will probably drywall two of the walls but I want to use something on the other walls that will permit me to attach tools or other items securely to the wall. I've considered tongue and groove paneling but it is somewhat costly and time consuming to install. I also looked at textured siding which is basically a plywood sheet that looks like it's tongue and grooved.

http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/plywood/5-8-x-4-x-9-textured-siding-8-on-center/p-1508797-c-5836.htm

I guess I'm looking for something that will allow me to screw items or mounts anywhere to the wall without being limited to a wall stud.

Thanks,
John

If that price doesn't scare you off, I bought 3/4 ply from Me-Nards:
(actually, I think it was less on sale)

http://www.ilynda.com/shop/imageshs/bf0412.jpg

Ellen Benkin
01-26-2012, 1:43 PM
I also used 1/2" plywood and cut each sheet in half so that I could lift it. I painted it white which makes the garage look brighter. I did put fiberglass batts in the bays with the idea that I would be "soundproofing" but, since I work with the door open, that seems like it was a waste of time. I can attach pretty much everything anywhere I want to and I don't care if I move stuff and there are holes left. It's a garage!!!!