Need a pattern

[steven c newman]

to replace a plastic piece on this plane. Old original tote is LONG gone. The handle (won't even call it a tote) on there now is from an old Great Neck "smoother" plane.:eek: I am intending to strip the paint/crud off the wood/metal parts, but that plastic thing has got to go.:mad: A picture of this "thing"...220855220856So, IF someone knows of a full sizes pattern I could use? Front knob will also be re-done to match.

[Michael Peet]

So let me get this straight: they made a plane out of wood, and then used plastic for the "tote"? There is nothing right about this. Sorry, I am no help here.

Mike

[Carl Beckett]

But they painted it a racing stripe white. Looks fast....... ;)

[David Posey]

I think what he's saying is not that the plane came this way, but that someone replaced the original tote with a plastic one.

Lee Valley has some patterns you could work from here:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=63262&cat=1

Alternately, you could get some playdough or modeling clay and squeeze it in your hand and use that as a basis of shaping a new handle, if you want to keep the spots for your fingers. Personally, I've never found things designed like that to be comfortable.

If you use screws, you might need to adjust the screw locations, but these are a good start. Screws shouldn't be a huge problem when attaching the tote to a wooden body. It doesn't look like your plane ever had the metal part that totes attached to like some (all?) of the Stanley transitionals did.

A more secure solution would be to make a mortise and tenon connection between the tote and body. These can be tricky. You want the tote to fit into the mortise in such a way that pushing the plane forward with the tote will push the tenon downward and forward into the mortise, so you have to undercut the front end of the mortise slightly to make it work.

Alternately, you could get some playdough or modeling clay and squeeze it in your hand and use that as a basis of shaping a new handle, if you want to keep the spots for your fingers. Personally, I've never found things designed like that to be comfortable.

[Brent VanFossen]

Maybe if he painted the whole thing white, no one would notice the plastic handle.

Kidding aside, thanks for the link to the Lee Valley patterns. I've saved those off for later.

[Greg Wease]

The Liberty Bell planes had totes about the same shape as those for other Stanley planes but both the long screw through the tote and the one at the front were wood screws threading directly into the body. I would start with the pattern Lee Valley provides for the #5-8 size tote and a long wood screw or 1/4-20 threaded rod into an insert. You might get lucky and find a doner 127 or 129 somewhere. I don't think these were the best transitionals Stanley ever made but they do have an interesting depth of cut adjustment. Front knob looks fine.

Having just re-read my comments, this could be more trouble than it's worth!

[steven c newman]

so far, zero $$$ invested on this plane, it kind of found it's way into my shop one day. Already had the plastic tote, though. I intend to clean this old boy up. Right now, it is a decent jointer plane, as is. I will clean all the metal, and the wood. The blade is sharp, but can be sharper. I may take an old saw handle as a pattern, just to get a better line on the mounting screws. I do have a nice, OLD oak beam in the shop, about 4" x 6" x 10'. A little nailly, a little rotty, but some of the tightest grain around. Might just slice off a chunk....

[Jim Koepke]

Alternately, you could get some playdough or modeling clay and squeeze it in your hand and use that as a basis of shaping a new handle, if you want to keep the spots for your fingers. Personally, I've never found things designed like that to be comfortable.

The problem with things designed like that is everyone's hand is different. Finger dents wouldn't work well on a plane in my opinion. I do use them on some mallets or saw handles.

I tend to just hold the handle and use it. Then any place that is noticed against my fingers is adjusted. It eventually produces a handle that kind of disappears into my hand, with the tool aligned for use.

I have modified plane totes to be more comfortable, but that does not include indentations for fingers.

Steven,

I have an old tote for a #5 or larger plane. It cost me all of a buck many years ago. It is not rosewood, but it could work on your plane or serve as a template.

Let me know if you want it and I will put it in the mail.

jtk

[steven c newman]

You might need an address for that. I thank you for your offer. Anything wood would look better than that plastic thingy I have on there now. Who knows, maybe it would even serve as a pattern in itself. Thank you, again.

[steven c newman]

Well, tore this old plane down to the bare naked bones. A few photos:220956220957 Body stripped down, hardware group with the blade group

[steven c newman]

And a couple more:220958 yep, that is a Liberty Bell on the cap iron. a thumbscrew to tighten the whole shebang together. 220959And that ugly kanobi with a LONG screw. Trash? Or, a spare?

[Jim Koepke]

And that ugly kanobi with a LONG screw. Trash? Or, a spare?

Save it, you may want to put a handle on a push stick or on the side of a 5 gallon bucket.

jtk

[steven c newman]

On the wood body: A SMALL chip out in front of the mouth, not behind it. Not sure IF it is a problem. Never seemed to be earlier. Will know more later.


Getting some of the silver paint that was on the metal parts off is what is happening right now. May have to re-paint all the metal parts.

[steven c newman]

After a good cleaning, a name and number came up on the end of this plane: STANLEY
RULE & LEVEL Co.
No. 129


By the way this stamping is laid out, about 1888-1892. Just a "puppy"! Might try to re-hab the front knob, kind of beat up. Seems to be well taken care, overall.

[steven c newman]

Thanks to a "new" tote from JK, here is a few photos of the re-built plane.221558221559221560