Plunge base vs fixed base?

[Brent Romero]

Good Morning Gents,

Thinking about upgrading the ole router. What are some of the advantages and disadvantages of plunge vs fixed base routers?


Thanks in advance for the help.

[Van Huskey]

Plunge routers are better for multi-stage cuts where you progressively go deeper, fixed base routers are better for single depth cuts like edge treatments. The fixed base tends to be easier to control in most cases and the plunge can easily start cuts in the middle of stock.

If you are only going to have one handheld router I would highly recommend a two base kit with both the plunge and fixed base. I am partial to Bosch routers and really love their new MRC23EVSK which has some REALLY nice features but their tried and true 1617EVSK can be had for around $100 less and is excellent.

[Bill Huber]

I agree with Van, I would look at getting a kit with both.
I use both of them at different times.
Lets say I am making some dados in plywood for a shelf, I will use the fixed base, but if I am making a stopped dado I would use the plunge base.
If you are doing an operation where you have to take off small amounts at a time to get to you final depth then I would use the plunge base, set the final depth and then use the little step wheel to take off just a small amount at a time.

[glenn bradley]

Rule of thumb used to be "if you can only get one, get a plunge". The refinement of combo kits over the last few years has changed this. I'll add my favorite, the Milwaukee 5616-24, to those mentioned. I actually don't have a dedicated plunger anymore ;-)

[Brent Romero]

Great advice as always. Thanks

[Bryan Cramer]

A 2.25 hp multi base kit makes a good starter router. If you do deep mortises or heavy cuts with a hand held router get a dedicated 3 hp plunge. A fixed base router has a lower center of gravity which helps with hand held edging especially on narrow pieces. This applys to hand held use-if you want to use it in a router table look for convenence features like adjustment methods over fixed or plunge.

[scott spencer]

A 2.25 hp multi base kit makes a good starter router. If you do deep mortises or heavy cuts with a hand held router get a dedicated 3 hp plunge. A fixed base router has a lower center of gravity which helps with hand held edging especially on narrow pieces. This applys to hand held use-if you want to use it in a router table look for convenence features like adjustment methods over fixed or plunge.

I'll add that a plunge mechanism has more side to side play than a fixed base too, so is a bit less accurate, but it depends a lot on the particular plunge base. It's really a matter of preference, but I use my fixed base 95%+ of the time. If for hand use, but sure to get a router that feels good in hand. FWIW, I'm partial to the Milwaukee 5615/5616 plunge base for those times that I do use a plunger. A fixed/plunge combo offers a lot of flexibility, plus it can be difficult to find a good deal on a decent plunge only router.

[pat warner]

"What are some of the advantages and disadvantages"

The plunge castings were designed to obviate a serious safety issue the fixed base routers could not over come, namely: Protection from the cutter.
Especially on inside cuts, a fixed base router has its cutter extended before you stab the work, a dangerous proposition. The plunger walks up to the cut, cutter retracted, and begins the excavation as modestly (very shallow start) as desired. From there, depth changes are manageable and without much ado.
A fixed base tool struggles with multistage work, whether along the edge of stock or in the middle of the board. The fixed base tool is designed essentially for single stage edge profiling. Its confined, concentrated design allows for a lower center of mass and better control on outside cuts. The plunger, given a reasonable platform, performs well on inside or outside cuts.
These differences don't present themselves without compromise. The plungers, e.g., are 10-14" high, they can be tippy and they are generally heavier than fixed base tools, (Milwaukee >11 pounds, PC 7529 >15!). There is no perfect router and there is no money in them either. The buyer is the winner here, paying diddly for the razor but substantially for the razor blades.

[Kent A Bathurst]

"What are some of the advantages and disadvantages"
A fixed base tool struggles with multistage work, whether along the edge of stock or in the middle of the board. The fixed base tool is designed essentially for single stage edge profiling. Its confined, concentrated design allows for a lower center of mass and better control on outside cuts.

The plunger, given a reasonable platform, performs well on inside or outside cuts.
These differences don't present themselves without compromise. The plungers, e.g., are 10-14" high, they can be tippy and they are generally heavier than fixed base tools

Well-stated, Pat.

FWIW - I lived for years with only the fixed base. The "center-of-the-board" cuts [ie - dadoes stopped at both ends] can be carefully done with a tall reference fence, a square/rectangular plywood sub-base, and a little careful execution. However, I got a plunge base a year ago because I had a bunch of cutouts to make.

The plunge base does stuff well and safely that the fixed base cannot do. But - I find it is noticeably heavier, and has a much higher center of gravity. I am not a "use it all the time" router guy, but I use it routinely. Hand held - no router table, no need for one.

The packages are common now, so I'd get the fixed + plunge in a kit, if it fits your budget. If that is a stretch, then I'd say just the fixed. The guys above have more experience than I with the available models. Me - I got the base-line-standard PC 690. I've got two of them, actually, because once you have to change the motor from fixed to plunge to fixed a couple times in a day, you'll be looking for another motor. Actually, I keep an eye out for another motor, maybe two........I've got what amounts to 4 distinct bases, and I'd like to just stick a motor in them all and forget about ti.

One last point: On my plunge, at least, a lot of bits will not work, because of the minimum height.............the shaft of the bit is not long enough to work with that base. Just a word of warning.

[Jerome Hanby]

The fixed base from my kit stays in my table saw router wing. I use the plunge base for everything and have never had a moment where I wished the fixed base was easier to get at and use.

[Brent Romero]

Thanks. I was thinking of drilling a hole in my table saw wing and mounting my router there since I could share the fence with it. Any drawbacks to doing so?

[Kent A Bathurst]

If I was ever going to have a router table, that's where I would put mine. I think the real consideration is how you get the rip fence to function as a router fence.......which means build an accessory fence that fits over the TS fence.

[Curt Harms]

If I was ever going to have a router table, that's where I would put mine. I think the real consideration is how you get the rip fence to function as a router fence.......which means build an accessory fence that fits over the TS fence.

My solution was to build a second fence for the router. The router fence limits my T.S. fence rip to 12" but except for sheet goods, 12" is usually enough. By building a dedicated fence I have good dust collection for edge cuts, variable bit opening due to sliding faces, I can move one end at a time so can get pretty fine adjustments. Works for me.

[Jerome Hanby]

My solution was to build a second fence for the router. The router fence limits my T.S. fence rip to 12" but except for sheet goods, 12" is usually enough. By building a dedicated fence I have good dust collection for edge cuts, variable bit opening due to sliding faces, I can move one end at a time so can get pretty fine adjustments. Works for me.

My Craftsman Table Saw came with the a cast iron router table wing. The rip fene has a pair of slots on the top and the saw came with two pieces that together mount on those clots and form a wood faced split router. With al that said, I so rarely use that router for anything except adding a round over, that I never hook up that router fence, I just run the rip fence as is.

[Von Bickley]

Porter Cable and Bosch make some great "Combo Kits". If I had to pick between a fixed and a plunge, I would go with the plunge.

[Jim Becker]

They are complimentary...and I agree with the advice to consider one of the nice multi-base kits as an option for your shop for maximum versatility.

[Stephen Cherry]

Good midsized routers come up so often on craigslist that there is absolutely no reason to buy one new. I would get a couple of plunge and fixed and see how you like them. Before I swore off of depriciation, I bought one of those Bosch kits, and it is a nice router, other than I could have bought two good routers for the same price.

[Rick Fisher]

I use Plunge routers for most free hand work.. For router lifts or tables, I prefer fixed base.. Fixed base routers are great for most uses but I agree with Pat, plunge routers are safer and more versatile..

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have the fixed base in my router table 100% of the time, and use the plunge base for nearly all my free hand cuts. The only exception is that I do have a D-handle base for quick edge treatments, or if I ever get a dovetail jig. The trigger gives you good control and is easier to use than a traditional switch. My brother has a DeWalt set that had all three bases, while mine are Porter-Cable and I had to get the D-handle later.

[Van Huskey]

The trigger gives you good control and is easier to use than a traditional switch. My brother has a DeWalt set that had all three bases, while mine are Porter-Cable and I had to get the D-handle later.

That is one of the issues the Bosch MRC23 addresses. It has a low voltage rail system on the motor which allows a switch on the handle of both the plunge and the fixed base and no cord like on D handle routers.

[Erik France]

Good Morning Gents,
Thinking about upgrading the ole router. What are some of the advantages and disadvantages of plunge vs fixed base routers?
Thanks in advance for the help.

Good info so far. A multi base is a good option. I did the same when I upgraded from my old C-man fixed base.

I eventually built a router table as a table saw extension that incorporated a router lift. The lift can use my same router motor. I first had a router fence that attached to my rip fence, but it wasn't the best solution. I got tired of breaking down a router setup to use the rip fence. I later made a seperate fence for the router.

[Mike Heidrick]

I am a fan of D handle bases. I would look for a router with that option for above table use.