Loss of horsepower on Delta contractor's saw

[Matt Dickey]

I have a Delta contractor's saw (22 years old) that has worked well for the 13 years I have owned it. After it sitting for a few months, my wife came up with a new project (redo fireplace). So, I get some 1/2" mdf and get to cutting. The saw wouldn't start. I have a magnetic switch on it and all it would do was make a whirring noise. I assume the switch is bad and put on the old rocker switch the saw came it. The saw starts but can barely get through the mdf without stalling. The blade is a Forrest Woodworker II that is in good shape. The pulley moves easily and I replaced the belt just in case. The blade comes up to speed but it takes longer than before and it slows down quickly when cutting. I have checked the start capacitor and that tests okay. Any other ideas? I know the fact that the magnetic switch not working must be a clue but I am not electrically savvy enough to figure that out. I would rather not have to buy a new motor. Thanks.

[Todd Burch]

Here's my process. Blow the whole thing out with compressed air. If it still doesn't work - I buy a new saw.

[scott spencer]

How's the run capacitor look?

[Matt Dickey]

Where is the run capacitor at?

[Lee Schierer]

It sounds like your belt is slipping. Most contractor saws depend on the weight of the motor to tension the belt. Remove the belt and insure that the motor is free to pivot and that it can move farther from the arbor than what is needed for tensioning the belt. I had a similar problem with bandsaw a while back. Once I got the belts tightened I had plenty of Hp.

[Rick Lizek]

Put an ammeter on to see what the amp draw is. Did you check the connections? Everything tight?

[scott spencer]

Where is the run capacitor at?

They're usually on the outside of the motor like the start cap, but I've also seen them stuffed inside the wire junction box. Be sure the motor's not packed with saw dust.