Sheet goods/Panel cutting table

[Larry Browning]

I recently started a thread about sheet goods handling and lifting ideas which then got me to think about the cutting table and guide system I was using. Years ago I made a cutting table from 2x4s layed flat attached to banquet table legs. This has worked ok, but it has never been flat which is pretty annoying, besides it is probably time to make me a new one. I was thinking I would make a new one from 1x4s on edge sort of a torsion box structure. I could then attach the banquet table legs to a piece of plywood and then attach that to the table. I think I could make that much flatter than what I have now.
I know this has been discussed before, but I can't seem to find the correct search terms to find the previous posts.
What are you using? BTW please limit this to shop built stuff. I am not quite ready to commit to a track saw type setup.
I also just ordered the PSI portable panel saw system 2.0 to use with this table, and once I get it I will probably have some questions about that as well.

Thanks for you input.

[Jerome Hanby]

I think you'll really like the PSI PPS. It's no Festool, but it does the job. Get some tempered hardboard and attach it to the rails and run your saw that's attached to the carriage across it. That'll give you a positive indication of your cut line. Much better than working out the offset and measuring every cut. I'd attack a little strip of hard board to outside edge of the bottom of the carriage too, just so everything is supported.

I built my table in a manner that sounds pretty similar to your description of your old table. I did attach a strip of plywood to the bottom to stiffen it up and give me a better mounting surface for the legs. If you are buying new legs, you may want to check out the Woodcraft site. They have the traditional style of banquet table legs like I used (and i bet you used), but they also have a set that is all up and down, no 90 degree curved legs at the bottom. I managed to bend my table at one of those curves last week hoisting a full sheet of birch plywood up on it.

I've thought about building one with a torsion box top but I can't see any way to get a skin tough enough and still keep the weight low enough to make it portable enough to stow away when not in use. Watching the Wood Whisperer's video on building an assembly table with a torsion box top it looked like he and his helper had all they could handle moving it around...

I wonder if one of those cutting tables that have extendible rails (they kind of starfish out) might be the way to go. That type looks as if it would be easy to replace the rails when they get chewed up. Let me see if I can find a picture...It is the table that is on the Eurekazone web site, although I've seen the same concept other places220387

Although I'd swap to these legs....
220388

[Larry Browning]

I've thought about building one with a torsion box top but I can't see any way to get a skin tough enough and still keep the weight low enough to make it portable enough to stow away when not in use. Watching the Wood Whisperer's video on building an assembly table with a torsion box top it looked like he and his helper had all they could handle moving it around...

I was thinking that if you built the torsion box from 1x4 it would probably be lighter than the one I have. After all it is made from 1x4 instead of 2x4. I wouldn't put a top skin on it, just the frame. I was thinking it could also be made from strips of plywood (maybe even 5/8 stuff, which would be even lighter).

I do have the flimsy legs, but mine haven't broken down yet. When they do I will probably get the better ones from woodcraft. I am always on the lookout for a commercial grade table with a messed up top that has been discarded so I can salvage the legs, but no luck yet. Maybe some day before the ones I have collapse. I'll probably come across one about a week after I buy the set from Woodcraft!

[Jerome Hanby]

That's the same way my luck runs!

I'm basing my thoughts on the way those legs at Woodcraft look and how my current set bent. I have no clue if they are actually better <g> In fact, the legs like we've both been using are more expensive than these others at Woodcraft for whatever that means.

[Larry Browning]

I use my current table as a finishing table too. It is a little shorter than anything else I have and I don't mind if it gets paint and stain on it. I usually put a piece of cardboard over the top to help support small parts. I think the torsion box table would still work for that as well. Oh, here's and idea! I could get those legs from woodcraft for the new cutting table and keep the old table as my finishing table.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Larry, assuming your shop's floor is flat, what about going the more simple route of getting some rigid foam insulation, laying it on the ground with the sheet good on top, and cutting it that way? You okay with getting you your hands and knees to do the cuts?

I find it difficult to control the saw when I cut the plywood on an elevated table... leaning over feels pretty awkward, especially if you're doing a rip cut down the middle.

[Jeff Hamilton Jr.]

If you are a member of FWW's online access, a San Diego WW'er has a couple articles re his "circular saw cutting table," from experience with it, it's simple to make, FLAT (if careful during construction like anything else :p), and ... it WORKS!

[Larry Browning]

Larry, assuming your shop's floor is flat, what about going the more simple route of getting some rigid foam insulation, laying it on the ground with the sheet good on top, and cutting it that way? You okay with getting you your hands and knees to do the cuts?

I find it difficult to control the saw when I cut the plywood on an elevated table... leaning over feels pretty awkward, especially if you're doing a rip cut down the middle.
I am ABSOLUTELY NOT OK with cutting on the floor! I will quit woodworking if I have to do it on my knees! I used to be able to do that 20 years ago but not now.

Was I able to answer your question? Hope my answer wasn't too vague:)

[Larry Browning]

If you are a member of FWW's online access, a San Diego WW'er has a couple articles re his "circular saw cutting table," from experience with it, it's simple to make, FLAT (if careful during construction like anything else :p), and ... it WORKS!
I have seen several references to FWW online lately. I think I may have to consider joining.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I am ABSOLUTELY NOT OK with cutting on the floor! I will quit woodworking if I have to do it on my knees! I used to be able to do that 20 years ago but not now.

Was I able to answer your question? Hope my answer wasn't too vague:)

Ha ha! No I think you covered it! :p

[Jerome Hanby]

That's the article I used to build mine. It does work...and I suspect it's pretty close to the one that Larry is replacing.


If you are a member of FWW's online access, a San Diego WW'er has a couple articles re his "circular saw cutting table," from experience with it, it's simple to make, FLAT (if careful during construction like anything else :p), and ... it WORKS!

[Larry Browning]

Ha ha! No I think you covered it! :p
Peter, As you can tell I feel pretty strongly about doing woodworking on the floor. In my other thread about sheet goods lifters/movers someone else mentioned cutting on the floor. I blasted that guy pretty well too!
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?179815-Show-me-your-Sheet-goods-lifter-mover/page2

Look at post #18 and 19

I didn't want you to think I was just picking on you! :D

[Jerome Hanby]

I know exactly what you mean about working in the floor. It reduces my ability to work in the shop all day to less than an hour and I'm shot. My knees just aren't up to it anymore.

[ian maybury]

I don't have a table yet, do lots of cutting on the floor and know exactly how you feel Larry.

It's been mentioned, but I think I'd want to include a layer of sacrificial e.g. blue polyurethane foam on top of whatever table structure i went with too. Pending firing up the panel saw fully I use a Festool rail saw which does a great job, but one of the occasional frustrations is the way you have to ensure both the parent and the off cut are both fully supported. If they are not then there is a high risk that the off cut will drop and pull splinters out of the the parent or vice versa just as you reach the end of the cut.

Which is a pity, in that a good rail saw with the blade set so that it only just penetrates the workpiece can do such a nice clean job...

ian

[Dan Rude]

Larry,
I actually replied on your other thread, here is the link here at the creek http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148465-Sheet-Breakdown&p=1516764#post1516764. For some reason I got buried inside the thread. The other link was to a table by Tom C, that is a t-track version of the EZ-Smart table showed above. The cost is about the same, This time the T-track could be had from Rockler during their sale this month for the 7 pieces needed with their 2' t-track on sale for $6.99. Here is Tom C's table that I plan on copying: http://www.garymkatz.com/chartsdrawings/tom-c_assembly-table.htm. As for the EZ-smar, the web site has super duty table legs listed for use with their stuff. I might order their 118" package since it's 25% off right now, still thinking on it.
Dan

[fRED mCnEILL]

I have a comment on the PSI potable panel saw setup. I bought my son one for Christmas. Pay particular attention when connecting the 2 rails together to make a 100 inch rail. If you simply butt them together and tighten the set screws chances are it won't be particularily straight. What I did was to "clamp" a piece of 4 inch angle iron(I had al. but it doesn't matter) across the joint and THEN tighten the set screws. This will insure that the rail is straight. And if you are going to use the 100 inch long rail all the time I would fasten it to a 1/8 " hardboard base. This will insure that it stays straight. I also bought a dedicated saw (used Makita)and bolted it permanently to the carriage.

Regards

Fred

[Chris Rosenberger]

I got a Jet panel handler last year. It makes cutting sheets of 3/4" plywood on a table saw a lot easier. It is expensive, but if you cut a lot of panels it is worth it.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/20110816_7.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/20110925_1.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o303/chrisrosenb/20110925_2.jpg

[Peter Aeschliman]

I didn't want you to think I was just picking on you! :D

Not at all man! I thought your post was funny.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I use the Gary Williams table.
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm#intro

Mine isn't flat either, but, I'm ok with that - but - I believe you're on the right track w/ 1x4's or even 3.5" wide sections of 3/4" plywood to help get the weight down.

I like those beefier folding legs that Jerome posted also. I've been worried recently that the $20.00 set I bought from Lowes may buckle on me.

[Larry Browning]

I use the Gary Williams table.
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm#intro

Mine isn't flat either, but, I'm ok with that - but - I believe you're on the right track w/ 1x4's or even 3.5" wide sections of 3/4" plywood to help get the weight down.

I like those beefier folding legs that Jerome posted also. I've been worried recently that the $20.00 set I bought from Lowes may buckle on me.
Mine looks exactly like this. In fact I probably built mine from this plan. BTW that animated gif showing tilting the table to load the plywood onto it doesn't work very well. As you start to pick it up, the table legs start sliding across the floor. I'm hoping that problem will be fixed by adding a hinged support on the side.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Mine worked exactly like the aimated gif the couple of times I tried it. I was using it on the driveway though and the concrete has a rough texture.
Now that I use one of those drywall carriers (Stanley), I find it's easier to just lift the plywood up and slide it onto the table.
Actually, I don't lift as much as I bend over in the opposite direction :D.

[Jerome Hanby]

I had forgotten about that website. I actually still had it in my bookmarks. That's actually the cutting plan I used for my table. If I had loaded plywood the way he shows, I probably wouldn't have bent my table!


I use the Gary Williams table.
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm#intro

Mine isn't flat either, but, I'm ok with that - but - I believe you're on the right track w/ 1x4's or even 3.5" wide sections of 3/4" plywood to help get the weight down.

I like those beefier folding legs that Jerome posted also. I've been worried recently that the $20.00 set I bought from Lowes may buckle on me.

[Rick Moyer]

Larry, I've been meaning to make make one of these tables for some time now (already bought the used legs over a year ago), so your post is interesting to me. I think I like your idea about 1X material on end as this would decrease the weight of the table by 60%! Even with bracing or plywood it should still be significantly lighter. You mentioned that your table is not flat. Is that because of using construction 2x4's that have now moved? You've got me thinking about how I'll want to go about making one of these ply cutting tables.

[Rick Moyer]

Just found this one someone linked to on your other thread: http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/wb280-table01.html This seems like what I'd maybe make.

Another question: I've seen these at 6', 7' and 8' long. I would think six feet long would be OK, especially to reduce weight and save shop space. Is there any reason why I should make it longer? It seems to me that a 3'x6' table should support anything up to 4'x8' panel well enough.

[Larry Browning]

Just found this one someone linked to on your other thread: http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/wb280-table01.html This seems like what I'd maybe make.

Another question: I've seen these at 6', 7' and 8' long. I would think six feet long would be OK, especially to reduce weight and save shop space. Is there any reason why I should make it longer? It seems to me that a 3'x6' table should support anything up to 4'x8' panel well enough.

Yeah, this is what I was thinking of. My current table was a bit flatter than it is now when I built it. I think it has warped or bowed over time. When A flat sheet will touch on one side of the table and have as much as a 2 inch gap at the other end at the edge. I think the torsion box design would have a much better chance of staying flat.

My current table is about 35" wide and about 84" long. This seems about right to me. I would think that 72" might be a little too short, but I really don't know. Just my perception. I was thinking that I might add some triangular clamping blocks to some of the grid corners. I would place them about an inch or 2 below the top edge. I have found by clamping the saw guide to the table rather that just the work piece it will hold the plywood in place better. Plus, I would think that a few blocks would add stability to the table.

[Kevin Gagne]

I built this table and it has worked out great. Doesn't take up much storage space when not in use because it folds up. Easy to move around and load plywood onto. I use this with my Festool TS55 but have also found it a great general purpose table also. http://www.festoolusa.com/sysnotes/mobile%20saw%20table.pdf

[Neil Brooks]

With a reconditioned DeWalt corded track saw currently selling for $250 from Tool King, I broke down and ordered one ... and a set of the 59" tracks ... and a track coupler.

I'll just sling sheets over some sawhorses, for now, set atop some rigid foam board. Nothing elegant, but ... I'm convinced the track saw is a pretty darned nice solution, and am just sort of over rigging straight edges, for use with my Milwaukee circ saw.

Or ... I just needed to buy a new tool :)

[Neil Brooks]

I got a Jet panel handler last year.

Uh.

WOW !

Sells for $922, but ... THAT would be the Ultimate Way To Do This ... unless I built a swinging winch system, mounted on rails, from my joists !

Very cool !

[Bruce Wrenn]

I built the FWW version, but with one difference. For the rails, instead of a 2 X 4, I use a 3 1/2" rip for 3/4 plywood. I'm on my FOURTH top, as old ones were simply cut to pieces.

[Sam Murdoch]

A light weight and FLAT table surface that can be mounted to folding legs is a blank hollow core door. Upgrade to more dimensional stability and more weight with a solid core slab. Use a piece of 1/2" foil faced foam board as a sacrifice board for cutting sheetgoods with a straight edge or track saw. There is a really awesome shop table that can be built using the offered plans recently seen on ThisIsCarpentry. My own set up is too heavy and more permanent than you are asking about, but I started out with the blank slabs on saw horses and then on an old kitchen base and they served well for many years. The ThisIsCarpentry table though is certainly worth consideration.